I have a 1984 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 2.8L V6, carburetor number E37E-AEA. The accelerator pump diaphragm is perforated.
Small holes are visible when I hold it up to a light. Is this part available anywhere? Is it included in these carb repair kits that I see on a lot of auto parts sites? The sites don't list the contents of their "kits."
I didn't really know where else to turn (no pun intended) every time I turn my wheel to the right the truck sputters out and dies, i checked the ignition switch, tightened her up and shes still killing the engine when i turn right. All other power remains on stereo, car charger etc. its not so bad on continuous turns i can just pop the clutch but for stopping and turning its a huge issue. Why turning left is fine but right kills the engine..wondering if maybe the prongs on the ignition switch may be bad?
View 7 RepliesI just picked up a 1984 ford ranger long box 2 wheel drive w/ 2.0 l and carburetor for our daughter whom is just 15. it has a whopping 19,000 actual on it! It was my wife's grandma's farm truck - ordered it new from dear born. Any way, fuel gauge is pegged at empty and they had a new float assy put in about 5 years ago, but it is dead now, it doesn't appear that this sender is avail any longer. What part might fit in there and or what do i have to do to maintain the original gauge in the cluster but have a working sender to talk to it? is there another unit that goes in the tank that i can modify the signal out to read right with the built in gauge? There can't be too many different ones out there is there?
View 8 RepliesI've got a '84 ranger that idles super fast for about 30 minutes after a cold start. The truck has been in the family since new and has done it since day one. I am wondering if replacing the electric choke or choke pull down would work. I've got a electric choke replacement but the cover place looks to be attached with rivets not screws. How to remove the choke?
View 3 Repliesworking on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
View 4 RepliesSo, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
View 3 RepliesI just rebuilt the carb on the truck, it has the 2.8L, and when I went go go start it, it cranked for awhile until fuel filled the bowl, then it started and revved up high, I shut it off immediately and it turns out the throttle linkage was binding for some reason, I fixed that but now it wont restart.
I was cranking it for a while and gas started spewing out of the top, so I took the top of the carb off and reset the float height and now it doesn't spew gas.
I pulled the plugs and checked for spark and it's a really bright blue spark. I'm thinking it's just flooded, lots of gas on the plugs? I'm just waiting for it to clear out now and trying to brain storm what could be wrong.
It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
I've got an 83 ranger that has proven to be a bit of a head-ache. For starters it's got a persistent oil leak. It's somewhere in the area of the distributor, intake manifold, block region on the backside of the engine, but I can't get back there to see it.
Secondly, the truck only seems to want to start when I give it gas. Even when I use starter fluid, it will only get to an idle if I hold it to the floor when I turn the key. What this might be?
1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L. So I've replaced my thermostat thinking that would fix the coolant vanishing problem, turns out it did not. Make tank became dry once again and my temp gauge keeps going back and forth from cold to hot.
View 2 Replies'94 Ranger with aluminum wheels.
I have problems with slow leaks and vibrations from multiple wheels. Both problems have persisted through multiple tire changes over the years. The same shop has always done the tire changes and they tell me they've been balancing the wheels and cleaning the inner rims. The vibration went away after putting on my B2 wheels. Then swapping the rears back to the ranger wheels, 2 at a time, the vibration was back for both test drives (hence vibrations from multiple wheels).
The wheels are badly corroded at the rims and valve stems which leads me to believe it's the wheels themselves that are causing the leaks. I haven't heard of excessively old wheels causing vibrations though which is why I ask. I will likely be buying some craigslist or junkyard replacement wheels but wanted to "check in" first.
My 1988 Ranger has started leaking a gush of water onto the feet of passengers the first time I accelerate after a heavy rain. I saw the water flowing out from behind the glove box area as I started driving forward. How to fix this leak?
View 5 Replies2003 ford edge 3.0 V6 ... I was driving down interstate today going 70, set my cruise control & the button broke. My accelerator was stuck, when I would hit the brakes it would literally shake the whole truck. What happened & why?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
The fuse and relay have been tested. There actually is 5 volts at the fuel pump. The truck was running OK when the clutch went out. It wouldn't start after the clutch was replaced. The inertia switch is OK. I don't know where to look now....
View 14 RepliesAnyway just got a new fuel pump put in my 99 3.0 Ranger and now after it's warmed up from a few miles it starts to choke and almost die. No CEL comes on and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in and still the same thing. I read something about maybe cleaning EGR.?
View 13 RepliesI recently acquired a 1984 AMC Eagle and I'm having trouble getting it to start. It turns over but the engine stops running unless the accelerator is kept depressed. Also, the car stalled at a light the one time I did get it running, so I'm thinking that there are some issues with the idle or with the carburetor maybe. I live in Colorado and I gather that the idle on these vehicles needed to get adjusted for the altitude, but I assume this has been done already as it has always been a Colorado car and has 125K miles on it. The gas is low, so possibly it might be something as simple as a gas supply issue, but judging by what other owners have posted online, it seems that this stalling problem is common with the Eagle so I think it probably is something more involved.
View 3 Replies1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
My '94 4.0L XLT has hesitated to start a couple times lately. Then, after sitting for a week while we were on vacation, the truck would not start at all today.
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I read about the fuel pump relay, so since I am not made of money, I decided to change that first ($16 vs. $100). After installing the new relay, the truck started! I put the old relay in the box and tossed it into the glove box.
After lunch, and some thought, i decided I wanted to put the old relay back in and see what happened. Guess what! It started with the old relay as well! I also noticed that the humming/buzzing sound the fuel pump makes when the switch is turned on was different with the new relay vs the old one. I put the new relay back in, but now I am unsure where my real problem lies. Intermittent relay, or fuel pump on its way out??
I can't get power to the fuel pump on my 91 ranger 3.0 5 speed. I just bought the truck and replaced all the relays checked all the fuses under the dash and under the hood. If I jump the relay it comes on and wont go off.
View 14 RepliesPlan on changing my water pump in the next day or two. Truck is a 2000 Ranger, 2.5L with 185,000+ miles. Just wondering if there are any hints/gotcha's that may not be in the manual.
Any advice on bleeding the coolant after I get it back together?