Truck has no spark except when you first turn key on it sparks or right when you let off from cranking it will give one spark. You can be cranking it and nothing and when you let off it kinda acts like it wants to start for a millisecond.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1983 ranger with a YFA. I recently took it apart and in the process of the rebuild I noticed the metal gasket was still in the spot where the needle pin goes. It has adhered to the carb. Any way to get it un-stuck? Also, there is a module, and the gasket comes in the rebuild kit so I know it belongs, the part number begins with 2I3 but the rest came off with the dirt. What is it for and would it hurt anything if it wasn't plugged in? It hasn't been since I bought it.
View 2 Replies I recently bought a 1983 Ford Ranger Diesel pickup truck (2.2L Mazda engine, manual transmission). The dealer said to expect a little above 30 mpg on fuel mileage but the two fill-ups I've done show an average fuel mileage of 22 mpg. About half of these are highway miles.
I thought diesels are supposed to have good mileage. Is this typical for my year and model truck? Is there any way to increase the mileage? I just replaced the air and fuel filters and also changed the oil and oil filters.
My 1983 Ranger is in the shop. I'm being told that I need to replace the shifter assembly. I understand that this is a Mazda part, from a TK5 transmission. These parts are interchangable between bronco ii's of the same era.
View 1 RepliesI noticed a strange vibration in the 83 Ranger I own, it has the 2.3 and a 4 speed. When getting up to speed around 35MPH it would start vibrating, and the speedometer needle would bounce around and read slower than it was actually moving. This would start in 3rd gear, and continue thru 4th unless I let off the gas while it was in gear, then it stopped and worked normally. I put a grease seal in the tail section when I first got the truck, and when I pulled the driveshaft again today the seal was mangled and bent, plus there are metal particles around the main shaft where the seal goes. I figure the tail shaft bearing is shot, and I also found damage to the yolk with the U-joint, the shaft has a worn spot about 1/3rd the way around.
View 2 Replies1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
View 6 RepliesAny way to tell if the ECU is faulty? I hooked my analyzer up to my friends 1988 Ford ranger 2.3L and it wouldn't even detect that the ignition switch was on. He was driving it the other day and is shut off on him while he was making a turn and it wouldn't start back up. We have rebuilt the distributor by replacing the pick-up, rotor button and cap, and we had the ignition module tested and found it was good. We have also replaced the coil. When the ignition is turned to the on position, the fuel pump comes on and never cycles off.
View 8 RepliesI have a no start no spark situation i am having trouble diagnosing
Truck started and then died it has fuel pressure but no spark I know that there is a theft light that is flashing (slowly) when the key is off. Could this bee the problem?
I have a friend of mine that has a 1983 and he had me change the water pump in it because it started leaking and it has been sitting for 7 Months now. I changed that but I can't get this bugger to start. I used to be a mechanic in a past life so I know what I'm doing most of the time so let me explain what has transpired here.
I attached my remote starter, turned on the key and cranked over the engine after shooting a little bit of starting fluid in the carb and she cranks over but won't start. I then pulled the #1 spark plug out and then did the same thing to check for spark and nada. I put my light tester on the coil and there was power. I have run into this kind of problem years ago with other vehicles so I thought I would just go ahead and replace the Coil and also the Control Module. After replacing these parts, still no spark. Since the distributor is there only to distribute the spark (meaning no electrical connections to it) I'm assuming that the Pick Up part that is down by the Crank shaft might be bad.
How to test either the Control Module or the pick up. I'm trying to diagnose this problem without needing to remove the module and taking them to the parts house for testing. (long drive). These wires should have 12 volts when the key is off and these wires should have 12 volts when the key is on.... and so on.
997 2.3 TruckSo this has been an issue for a long time, actually one of the issues I had when I got the truck 3 years ago. After it rains or is extremely humid, my truck does not want to start. Sometimes it will after cranking and cranking and cranking for a while (stopping to cool the starter of course) and other times it won't start.
This time around, it won't start. I cranked it for a little bit and had my dad check for spark while cranking. No spark at all. What should I start looking at? Coils, crank sensor and wires are all newer. As mentioned before, EEC has been replaced. Could it just be bad luck and I got a crap crank sensor? All fuses and grounds are good.
No codes, either except for the occasional misfire code that I get for some reason after pushing in the clutch to decelerate from a higher RPM. It'll fall and start to misfire, but clear up when taking back off.
My father in law has a 98 4wd, 4.0L that cranks but doesn't fire. We pulled a plug to check for spark....no spark. Possibly coil pack, or crank position sensor?
View 5 RepliesI just finished rebuilding my 1990 2.9 and it wouldn't start. When we did the initial start up, the truck needed ether to start and ran decently while stumbling. I found out that the spout connector was removed from the previous owner so I spliced it but still no starting ...
I installed a new fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter and cleaned the MAF. ..
Its not a spark problem because I'm getting good spark from all the cylinders and yes the timing was set correctly. It sounds like it wants to start but just doesn't have something to make it boom. There are also no codes...
I have a 94 ranger with the 2.3l engine there is no spark at the ignition module (the front one both on the drivers side) that controls the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. I swapped with the module for the exhaust side but the problem stays at the same two plus and doesn't move with the module .. What can be the source of this problem? ECU?
View 6 RepliesMy Ranger was running great when suddenly on the highway it just died. I towed it to local nationally known brake/ muffler shop where a good friend is the manager. He narrowed it down (guessed in my opinion) to no spark and no fuel. He thinks it could be the crank sensor, the fuel pump or the ignition module. Is there any way to pinpoint the problem without replacing parts? It will sometimes start and run for about 2 seconds before shutting off. It will not repeat this unless it sits for a day or two. I am not sure if there are different 2.3 engines available but mine is fuel injection and has two sets of spark plugs and wires.
View 9 RepliesI recently replaced the plugs & wires on my '97 3.0L XLT automatic, and now I'm hearing some pre-ignition (spark knock). Only happens under light load, as in climbing a slight grade on the highway. No CEL, no codes on my code reader. Was not happening before I did the work.
The plugs & wires I removed were the factory originals (AWSF32P & PG, 3 of each), truck only has ~85,000KM (~50,000 Miles) on it. Well maintained, & only used occasionally. The only mod from stock are the wheels & tires, I'm running 215/70 R15 instead of the stock 225/70 R14, the difference in the tire circumference is minimal.
The gap on the old plugs was just over .050", no evidence of any fouling or other problems. The new plugs are Autolite XP104 Iridium, which is what the Autolite catalog calls for. Plug gap was checked & set to .044", midway in the range called for by Ford (.042-.046).
I realize that the narrower gap on the new plugs will cause a slight advance in timing, and I have done a computer reset/relearn as per Paw Paw's instructions. I'm stumped.
2004, 4L, sohc - Is there any issues or problems changing spark plugs?
View 4 Repliesworking on a 84 ranger it did run fine for 3 wks then while driving there was a thump and it stopped and wouldn't start. Now working on it has spark cranks but won't start. while trying to start when I let off the key it tries to catch but only at that time not when the key is turn to start normal. we poured fuel into the carb and it still didn't start. Leaning toward compression maybe?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 ford ranger, 4.0 auto, 4x4, 60psi fuel presser, has spark and injector pulse, will try to start if you hold the throttle a little over 3/4 the way down, but will not fire on starting fluid.
View 3 RepliesAl right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
I'm getting tired of the same problem about every 6 months. Plug #4 keeps going bad. Its been doing this for years. It starts with rough idle when first starting up that clears up quickly then eventually it leads to a misfire when accelerating. Every time this happens I replace plug #4 and its good to go. Just recently (roughly 6 months ago) did a full tune up and all new injectors. About a week or 2 ago it started its rough idle at start up and just the other day it started misfiring again. What would keep causing this??
View 14 RepliesMy 95 Ranger has been a good truck in the 6 years I've owned it. I had to pull the heads to replace a leaking head gasket and wound up having the heads rebuilt due to weak valve springs and worn valves. I replaced the gaskets, installed the heads, get it all back together.....won't start. Fuel pressure is good. Found that there is no spark. While putting the crankshaft position sensor connector back on I noticed it didn't look too good. I replaced the connector and that's all I did and no spark. Long story short, after a lot of research, the coil pack, cps and coolant temp sensor were replaced and still no spark.
Everything has the proper voltage to it. After a little more research I found a post with the same basic issue. His issue wound up being the ecm. So I removed the ecm....it's a used one from a salvage yard. I've owned the truck 6 years so I have no idea when the ecm was replaced. It showed up today and will get installed when I get home from work. I also ran across posts about the camshaft sunchronizer and they should be replaced at about 80K miles. Since the truck has 289K I'll replace it. Still no spark. I'm hoping it's the ecm.