Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1979 - Rear End Shake?
Feb 27, 2015
I don't have a Ranger or B-Series, but I do have Ford's older B-Series counterpart. 1979 Ford Courier, 2.3L/5-spd. I have had a bad rear end shake since I bought the truck nearly three years ago, so I'm sure it existed well before then. It only happens around 60-65 mph, and there is also a kind of buzzing/humming sound whenever I'm coasting to a stop in neutral. I have:
Replaced and balanced the tires several times
Rotated the tires several times
Replaced all four wheel bearings
Replaced steering linkage
Replaced front suspension
Balanced driveshaft twice
Replaced driveshaft center bearing
Replaced all three U-joints
Checked rear wheel lateral and radial runout
Had the front end aligned three or four times
Checked engine and trans. mounts
And yet the issue persists. I am stumped and this problem is driving me bonkers!
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I have a 2003 Ranger 4x4 with the 5speed automatic. It has 215,000 miles on it and I don't drive it regularly anymore. Lately, I've noticed that it will shake after start up for 10-30 seconds. This only happens after it has sit for a few days or a week. After it warms up, I can drive it and stop and start it again and it has works as usual.
Is there some way the convertor is leaking out fluid and it shakes until the convertor is full again? Or is something else the problem. I've changed the fluid two or three times during the life of the vehicle.
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So Im working on a 1998 mazda b4000, frost plug blew out going down the highway changed the engine because it got cooked pretty bad. The wrecker engine I got for what ever reason will only run good if the driver side of coil pack is done 5,6,4 any other order truck wont run at all. Misses enough to shake the truck at around 80 km/hr otherwise its pretty good. Also the engine I got came factory with no egr.... no provisions nothing. exhaust manifold capped off, seemed kinda odd.
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1999 ranger 2.5. 135k!So I started with a tune up all motorcraft, fuel filter and air filter. Did nothing! So I did compression check all cyc 150psi and above. So I did leakdown, had air leak at dip stick and valve cover, So I asumed head gasket. Pulled head and found 3 head bolts on passenger side had carbon deposit bluid up really bad, So replaced head gasket all surfaces clean and flat. Still didn't fix it!! My symptoms are better than before hd but still have a engine shake and flashing cel at 55 plus mph and p0303 pending! Coils tested good but going change them any way tonight!I'm stuck on this one checked everything 3 times and then again...
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I have a 79 f100 that I am putting 96' explorer seats in. Got the tracks all made, decided to have the seats re done as a cat pissed on them.
went to talk to the guy doing the seats today and he can get new foam and won't make new foam. So my question which seats whether it be from an F series or E series has the same bolt pattern as the 96' style seats. so I don't have to make new brackets. Will the fox body mustang seats work as well?
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The rear window on my '99 Supercab leaks. I thought it was the cargo light so sealed it up good with silicone but still leaking. I have heard that the back glass is bolted in on these years..... It is a solid glass (non slider) ...
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I purchased a 1990 Ranger 4x4 with a v6 from auction. Took it to local shop to have them check it for me. Found out that it has a 3.0 in it and mechanic believes it is from a taurus. Truck actually runs extremely well. Has a few codes due to the ECM is for an automatic trans. Now the problem. I was on the highway-in 5th gear. Terrible noise the nothing. When I got it pulled over. The drive shaft was hanging from the rear end. It had been twisted like a straw. The transmission side had the yoke only, and the tail housing was cracked. It rolls and the drive shaft at the rear end turns. I figured the trans locked up. I don't know what trans to look for---is a 90 2.9 5 speed the same on a 3.0 ??
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I am working on a 96 ranger 2wd the front brakes were shot or nearly so,about 1/8 in left and cracked. Changed them this morning at 5am because that is the cool of the day (104 today) everything up front works fine but the howling and nails across the chalk board from the back was still there. Took it to my freindly les schwab and they told me it needed axle seals on one side and the noise is from the gear lube on the shoes. they wanted 800 bucks to fix everything, went and bought new shoes,new seals,gear oil,and gasket for rear end cover it is an easy half hour job. As I was driving home tonight from the parts store the noise stopped so now i am worried either it was a rock stuck between the drum and backing plate or something broke. everything sounds and works fine....
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Under mild-heavy braking, the rear brakes on my ranger lock up... EVERYTIME. Not just when its wet, or humid. Everytime I hit the brakes hard they lock. I think I'm getting little, to no pressure to the front brakes either. Could it be just a Proportioning valve?
Truck is a 94' 4.0l V6, RCLB, Auto, 4X4.
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Received the truck, 1989 Ranger XLT long bed single cab from my mom. It had been used by my younger brothers for some years, and then sat at mom's for a couple years.
It needed new front brakes badly, so replaced rotors, and pads. No unexpected problems there.
Looked at replacing the rear. Both adjuster cables were initially broken, so they obviously weren't adjusting, or braking. Replaced with a hardware kit, and shoes, and drums. Its the 9" drums, BTW.
Still not actually braking. I can tell this, when at a stop sign in the winter, with the brake pedal held down, and the backs will still spin, with the tranny in D. Even on gravel or grass, this'll happen.
One shop told me this is because the axle seals are leaking. THey've never leaked badly, and the axle fluid isn't low, by and shade of the imagination. Also, this theory falls apart, when the parking brake works just fine, right? Its just hydraulically that they don't work.
I've since replaced the wheel cylinders, the brake line from the frame to the rear axle, and the master cylinder. No change. Bleeding them doesn't seem to be a problem; i.e. no lack of or little fluid witnessed, it seem fine.
Also have bypassed the RABS valve for about a year or so, and its made no difference. Last fall I pulled the drums off, and manually adjusted them, and it didn't seem much better either.
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I'm an experienced home mech, not really worried about doing the job. Just curious if there is any pitfalls I need to know about, or a trick/tip that may make the job easier?
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Only clunks under power. Push in the clutch and it's fine. I haven't pulled the diff cover just yet....
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It is a 1994 Ranger XLT, Regular cab, two wheel drive, manual transmission and I think it has rear ABS. A front brake line blew which drain the master cylinder. Also a couple of pieces of brake line at the rear had to be replace along with the rear wheel cylinders. After installing the new brake system components we were trying to bleed the system. After reading the repair manual I had it said that vehicles with rear ABS you are to bleed the ABS module before bleeding the rest of the system. There is a module where the book described it (driver's side inside the frame rail) with brake line running to it. I am assuming this is the rear ABS module? I didn't see anything that looked like a bleeder on the module. Where to look? Also when I open the bleeders on the rear wheel cylinder no brake fluid came out.
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I have a 1996 ford ranger and i have no tail lights i have license plate lights, brake lights, Hazard and turn signals. But no running lights on the rear end. Where the grounds are for this circuit and if some one has a schematic for this ranger...
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I have a 2000 ford ranger xlt the rear frame section is bad the section is factory rivited on just behind the cab will any other model ranger frame fit my truck if I remove the rivits and bolt the section back together.
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i have a 96 ranger 2wd with a 2.3l engine and a 5 spd manual. everything works except the rear diff whines a little under load. putting new bearings in doesn't look to difficult that's what i will plan on doing but first i need to take the cover off and need to know what fluid to put in?
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I just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
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I have a noise in my rear end, if I grab the bed of the truck, and rock the body back and forth, I hear a clunk, almost sounds like a wheel is loose, but checked them, all good, also checked the U-joints, and pulled the driveshaft to grease the spindle. Thinking it could be in the third member, maybe the Differential pinion shaft, or the lock bolt......
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I just had new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, drums, leaf springs, rear shocks, and shackles put on. The brakes were done about 4 or 5 months ago and the springs and shocks just a few weeks ago. The rear brakes were locking up after I had the work done, but I thought they were just too tight. I loosened them a little but it only worked a little.
Now it's starting to lock up pretty much every time I apply the brakes. The ABS kicks on and the rear tires skid. I took the drums off today and didn't see any leakage or anything out of the ordinary. They weren't too tight and I readjusted them but they weren't out of adjustment much if at all. I looked at the Ford symptom chart and it says for brakes that lock up easily there could be sticking or binding components. I didn't see any. Then it says check parking brake components.
Now I see they didn't hook up the equalizer bracket that goes to the front leaf spring hanger when they changed my springs so I assume thats why my parking brake pedal goes to the floor. Then it says check the shoes and linings, which are fine. The last thing it says is to check the fluid control valve. Which I'm guessing is the prop valve.
The only way to check it according to Ford is swap it for a known working valve. One person told me that it could actually be a bad brake booster check valve. Is that possible? Anything else that's common? It's got 272,000 miles on the frame but everything's been changed that typically wears out at least once.
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So, last weekend the GF said she had been hearing a tick in her 2006 4L Ranger. I crawl up under it and see the right rear spark plug and wire vibrating and could tell it was loose. I jack it up, take the right front tire off, pull the liner back, and finally get a socket on the plug to tighten it. I tighten it by hand first the then the finale snug down with the ratchet.
I notice it snugged up but I just felt it was trying to slip so I stopped. Well, it lasted two days and now has fallen out again. It appears the head is stripped. I am going to pull the plug out tonight and see if I can see where the threads are stripped. I assume I will find material on the threads of the plug.
My question is, is there anyway for me to make a temp fix till there is time to pull the head and repair it properly? I saw NAPA used to have a kit for the Triton engine but when I went to their web site I couldn't even find that anymore.
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