Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1971 F250 Won't Pass Emissions
Jul 13, 2013
I got a 71 f-250 ranger n it's a beast with a few problems. The most resent is emissions. I have owned it for a year and guy bought it from knows about timing n carbs, but now days most mechanics hate dealing with carbs from what I've found. I'm in az and my emissions came out as a fail, but from what I've read it may be fixable with the right knowledge if any ones willing to share. Here we're my result
Loaded reading. Load standard. Idle read. Idle standard.
Hc. 131. 450. 609. 450
Co. 5.56. 3.75. .11. 5 .0
So it failed idle hc and loaded carbon. So I'm pretty sure my trucks running rich and I know I can adjust its air and fuel, just not tremendously experienced.
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1995 Ford 4.0 ... All the following have been replaced on the truck.
High Pressure Fuel Pump and assembly
Idle Air Control Valve
Spark Plugs
Oxygen sensor (Bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen)
Fuel Filter
The most recent item that I replaced is:
Coil Pack
Spark Plug Wires
Now, with the Coil Pack replacement, the truck drives good, as long as I do not floor it (After it heats up, about 15 minutes). Basically, if I try to pass someone, the truck acts as if it is chocking out, like it is not getting any fuel.
Before replacing the Coil Pack. It would chock out at any given time, rather just barely pressing the gas peddle, or just sitting idle.
I took it to a friends muffler shop, and he stated that it is not the exhaust that is causing the issue. I am at a loss. Is there anything else that I can check?
The truck seems to drive fine, as long as I do not get down on it, and try to take off fast after it heats up. When it is cold, I can take off like a bat out of hell, and it runs like no-ones business.
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We have a 92 Honda Accord 2.2L We have been trying to get it to pass emissions since October. So far we have replace the gas cap, replaced the O2 sensor and replaced the EGR valve. Here are the readings 25/25 test 50/15 testHC ppm 17 29CO% .07 .20NO ppm 1162 1230 after replacing the O2 sensor but before the EGR the 25/25 side passed reading 1005CO+CO2 % 15 15
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My check engine light is on and I read the code with my obd and the problem catalytic converter is bank 1. Which is bank 1?
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I have a 1971 F250 automatic with original stock 360 engine (100k miles). It currently has an Autolite 2100 2bbl carb.
The Autolite is leaking gas out somewhere where I can't see the leak. It takes a lot of cranking for it to start after sitting 10 minutes and my wife won't drive it for fear of being stranded. My attempt at a rebuild must have failed... Also have issues with anti-stall dashpot spring coming off while driving. When the spring and plunger come off I have to hold the gas on a little to keep from stalling while stopped at a light. A couple other parts looked like they needed repair during the rebuilt, but the kit didn't have any replacement (vacuum diaphragm torn). Also, after replacing plugs, plug wires, replacing points with Pertronix Ignitor 2, a new rotor, and distributor cap, it still doesn't hold a steady idle. In fact it is hard to get it down to the spec idle for an automatic without fear of stalling.
To make a long story short, what is a low maintenance 2bbl (new, not rebuilt) replacement carb. The truck needs to be dependably started by my wife for garage sale runs and home depot trips. I could switch to a 4 bbl intake, but would rather wait for another 50k miles and switch the engine over to a rebuild 390 with nicer intake and carb.
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I have a 71 F250 4x4 with the 435 and recently had the tranny out to replace the output shaft i believe its called, and other than the shaft it seemed all was well. Shortly thereafter it became impossible to shift it into 4th gear without it grinding. I am able to minimize it by double clutching and keeping the rpms right, but the grind is unavoidable and its only 4th gear, all others shift fine. I was hoping there was a way to adjust the clutch but if not am i going to have to pull it back out and look at the fork and gears? But like i said, we just had it out and the fork and gears seemed fine.
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I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
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I have a unique problem with my newly acquired 71 F250. The left brake does illuminate when the brake is pressed but when the right turn signal if activated the left brake light does come on. The left flasher light also does not work. All other rear ligh function are normal. I am assuming I have a short or a wiring issue just wanted to know if there was any common item that might be know about this topic. The bulbs are all new. The reverse lights do not work either but pretty for sure its unrelated.
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1971 Cougar XR7 ... On behalf of my Dad, who has always worked on this car from day one and kept the beautiful car running like new until recently... It has a 351 Cleveland motor - 4 barrel It starts up and runs down the road only to stop without warning. The motor turns over again and starts up but it repeats the stopping and starting. He has done the usual: replaced the fuel filter, adjusted the automatic choke - in the garage he has it running at 1000 RPM's and idles it down to 650 RPM's and it dies.
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I have a 1971 Triumph TR6. After sitting through the winter the car ran very rough and eventually wouldn't start. My mechanic found almost a gallon of gas in the engine. The initial repair was replacing the Fuel pump with an electronic. This removed any direct connection of the fuel line to the engine block. Carburetors were also rebuilt as part of a full tuneup. After driving for 20 to 30 miles and having a car sit for a week the gas was back in the engine. My mechanic is stumped. He thinks I am purposely pouring gas into my engine. How gas can make it into the engine on a TR6 with a modern fuel pump and rebuilt carburetors?
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I just changed my Oil, added a FRAM filter and bought some good Quakerstate High Mileage and my truck runs good. However, I noticed that my Check Oil light is constantly on. I also recently changed my Oil Sender, and I wonder if that has got something to do with it.
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I have a 1994 2.3l 4cylinder xlt ford ranger regular cab Manuel transmission. My transmission is going out. I found an 04 ford ranger Manuel transmission off a v6 will this be compatible? And if not what years will be?
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I have a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that I just put on and 35's and when I get to 35 mph it shakes really bad. What the problem is. Have been told that I need a steering stabilizer.
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I need to change the AC relay. What is the location of the relay.
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I have a weird issue. When I'm running AC on my 2.3l ranger sometimes the idle wont go down but rather hold its current RPMs till i either turn the AC off or place the truck back in gear. What that could be?
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Opinions welcomed...thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
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Hello. I never did this before but could you lock one hub in 2wd and leave the other unlocked. Also can you leave one hub locked while in 4wd? I was thinking if you have one hub locked would all the power would go to that wheel? Or will this do damage?
Thanks
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I fit explorer rear axle to my 2wd ranger. But now I have fromt x-member with front suspension and front drive axle from explorer. Can I fit all this stuff to my ranger?
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger with a blown 4.0 with a 5 speed , I have a 5.0 with a Carb and 5 speed out of a 80s mustang . Is it possible to use this in the 97 Ranger , I understand I need a different fuel pump but motor mount wise I was hoping it would fit.
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So here is what I got. Code 157 maf sensor below minimum voltage. Here is what the truck does. When the MAF is plugged in and I step on it, the truck surges and when it drops below 1k rpm it dies but I can start it back up. If I hold the throttle at 1k it stays alive. When I drive with the MAF unplugged it runs better no surging but it still dies. Here is what I have done. Reset codes no change, put new MAF in no change. I have traced all 4 MAF wires checked continuity from inside of plug to inside of plug.
All wires checked out good. No cuts breaks or anything. I have checked my battery, starter, and alternator ad all check out fine. I read that someone said if the corresponding transistor in the PCM took a dumb then it would cause not enough voltage to get to the plug because the transistor would dump the voltage from the battery leading to the MAF. I thought about running a direct power source from the battery to the voltage side of the MAF with a switch in the truck to just see if that would solve the issue but I don't know if that is possible or smart.
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