Ford - Ranger :: Air Not Working When Vehicle Is Not In Motion
Jul 25, 2012
I recently purchased a 99 Ranger to run my mail route on. The first time I ran it on the route I noticed the AC would stop working completely before the route was done. It takes me about 7 hours to run the whole route. At first the AC will cut off for a couple of min. and then cut back in, but the intervals between coming back on will lengthen as the day wears on until the cold air never comes back. AC is not an option but a necessity. I have had a mechanic I trust and have used for years who used to be the head mechanic at a Ford dealership before going out on his own look at it several times and he cannot figure it out. He as replaced the radiator fan clutch, messed around with the electronics making sure there are no bad connections, and changed a switch I believe as well. He claims the compressor is fine as it runs cool air when I drive normally not on the route. Nothing has worked, and the hotter the weather is outside the faster the AC goes out.
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I have a high-mileage 1984 Toyota Landcruiser that has the 2F engine, 6-cylinder, carburated. It's also got a manual 4-speed transmission in it.
Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.
Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.
I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!
I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.
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The left side (driver's mirror) indicates and beeps if a car is in the blind spot however, the right mirror works sometimes and then does not. Also, it will "alert" once in a while and sporadically.
First, where are the sensors? Could I unplug for five minutes and let them reset? Second, this almost sounds like a software glitch?
2014 2.4L Nav/tech package.
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What's the fix for a 1996 Ford Ranger when the engine shuts if the vehicle is put in reverse? (It will run in drive, but not in reverse; fuel filter, air filter and vacuum hoses have all been checked).
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I have a 2001 Econoline and the turn signals work in the morning but when the vehicle warms up they stop working. I have replaced the bulbs and the fuses. What I could try next.
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The horn on the vehicle is not working. The fuse and relay have both been tested and replaced. The horn itself does work when connected in an alternate method. Trying to find wiring from steering column to horn to determine issue. Any wiring diagram that shows color of horn wire from steering column and route it takes
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The Right DRL Not Working on my 2005 Venture. I checked the following, also note the turn signal works and the following are ok.
Bulb
Bulb Socket
Socket harness
All Fuses and relays
When I turn on the headlights the day-time bulb lights...
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I have a 2001 Kia Sportage. Manual transmission.
For the past two days, once the vehicle has been running long enough to get hot, it becomes really difficult to shift. I think I'm losing the clutch pedal. For example, when in first gear stopped at a traffic light, the car will stall out with the clutch engaged (as if the clutch weren't pressed down.) With the car moving, it's physically very hard to move the gear shift.
Topped off the break/clutch master cylinder fluid, and it seems ok. Also took a look at the transmission fluid, and it is not low.
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96 Eldorado Code 502 (speed sensor fault).. Speedometer not working and vehicle running in low range.. I replaced the speed sensor on the right side transaxle. No change, what else can I try?
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What is the compression supposed to be on a 2000 monte carlo 3.4 It is running hot and the heater is not working
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I have a 2006 sc430 and have been having problems with the drivers memory seat although the passenger one works fine.
I have disconnected my batter for 5 minutes, moved the passenger seat all the way forward, heard the beep. Moved the reclining part all the way forward until I heard the beep, and the memory seat for the passenger works great.
I moved the drivers seat all the way forward, heard the beep. Moved the reclining part all the way forward until I heard the beep, but the memory seat won't beep (when you hold set and a number). I even replaced my drivers mirror (didn't tilt down due to bad motor), but that didn't work. Of course, I did redo disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it resetting both drivers seat and passenger seat.
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DRL quit working on my 2008 Avy.
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On my wife's car a 2009 Sonata, the driver's control of the power windows for the right side stopped working last Friday. The window switches operate on all doors, but can't control them from the Driver's door.
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My speedometer does not work. Also, my 4wd high light is on but not engaged. Are the two related? I've looked up speed sensor and it's separate from the actuator for 4wd. Maybe coincidence they stopped working simultaneously? Should I start with the speed sensor?
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I have a 1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 5 speed step side...in Jalapeno no less. Anyway, for the past 5 years or so the check engine light has been on. When it came on I did nothing because nothing seemed to change and I was too broke to fix it anyway. Well, just lately the check engine light has started to flicker or go out completely.
When this happens the truck seems sluggish and the A/C will stop working. As long as the check engine light is ON the truck runs like it always has, when it goes off the issues start. If I am stopped with the clutch depressed the idle will drop down to 500 rpms or so.
Kinda hoping it is something I can fix or at least learn about so I can have an intelligent conversation with a mechanic.
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I have the infamous ABS light & speedo not working on my 2000 Ranger. I replaced the ABS Speed sensor on the rear diff as has been suggested on many posts, but it didn't solve the problem. Did I get a bad part or is there something else I should go after?
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I have a '97 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed, as the title says... my radio does not work. It has an original cd radio and I had installed an aux cord. After I installed it I could only get a select amount of radio stations, last week I had went out of town so I didn't drive it at all, I came back and there was what seemed to be no power to the radio at all. No display, no sound. Only the lights on the radio controls (pre-sets, volume, seek, etc.) I have checked the fuses, pulled the radio and checked everything from behind and still nothing. Could the radio its self be bad? What else should I check?
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Good morning all; Just bought an 2001 Ranger XLT two days ago. Up until yesterday I had used the key fob to open the doors. Tried using the keys and found neither key works in either door. Both keys work fine in the ignition but not the doors. I noticed in the hand book some info about coding the keys but that seemed to pertain to the ignition only.
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I recently got a 2010 Ranger sport 4x4, and the a/c seems to be working anytime the cold air is selected and any vent position.
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My wife's 99 Ranger's heater fan is not working. It was working off and on until now. The fuse is fine. I went out this morning and tested the blower motor for power in --had voltage. Assuming the motor was bad, I pulled it. Before wasting $ and a trip to town, I bench tested it --it works. Now my question: what do I do next?
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so heres whats happening. My 98 ranger speedometer has not been working since I owned it (I am the second owner who got it from a grandpa) and I've replaced the vss sensor two times, got a new connector and gave that a try and still nothing. Yes I've looked for cracks in the wire or any exposed copper, I've looked through many forums and cant figure it out. At first before replacing the vss, my abs and check engine light weren't lit up until i put a new vss sensor on that i got from o'reillys, so then i got another one thinking it was just a bad sensor and still no luck. another thing is when its cold in the morning and i get in my pickup to go to work it will start working once i go over 30 and fluctuate between that and 20 but if i don't accelerate it will not bounce all over the place.
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