Ford - Ranger :: 2003 - Loud Clang / Wheels Lock Up And Sudden Lunge When Accelerating From Stop
Feb 2, 2013
1 year ago bought a 2003 Ford Ranger 5-speed manual. For last two months I occasionally get a loud clang from the rear, with short locking of rear wheels and sudden lunge when accelerating from stop. I can also get occasional clang when cruising down city streets in fourth gear. Tonight when accelerating from stop wheels locked and no sudden kick in and lunge forward. Finally got truck to go and crawled home. I've taken the truck into my mechanic twice, but of course it performs perfectly normal when they drive it. And no, it isn't just the way I drive. It's an occasional problem but getting more serious.
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After a transmission flush, my husband's Ford Ranger rear wheels have locked when backing out of the garage; pulling out of a parking spot; and driving down a hill.
He had checked the transmission fluid level, and it was a little high. The shop drained it down to where it should be, said the fluid was discolored, and sent him on his way. But it has happened again since then.
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On the expressway, I was driving my 2013 Subaru Impreza about 50 mph and had occasion to make a sudden stop. There were no crashes, and traffic started up again immediately - except for me! There I was, in the left lane, and when I depressed the gas pedal the car stayed put. I could hear the engine rev, but the wheels didn't turn. I had to turn the car off and start it again before I could move forward. What could be going on?
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When I Let Off The Gas There's A loud Rattle Coming From The Engine Bay Area. It Stops When I press The Gas Again, When I Brake And When I Turn The Wheel.
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2002 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 6cyl 100,000 miles
Symptom, loss of horse power (from a stop and going uphill), surge or lunge forward when accelerating (misfire?), rough idle (occasional knock). Maintenance, regularly change all filters and fluids, recently had the m.a.f cleaned and changed air filter, spark plugs and wires, oil.
There have been times in the past year or so when the car would crank but not start. Especially when the car was hot. Wait a couple minutes and it would start. Also a couple of times the car would shake fairly hard when started, get up to speed and it was fine.
I have had people tell me anything from a clogged catalytic converter to bad fuel injectors or fuel pump.
Scanned the car last week. No codes showed up. Never had a Check Engine Light.
I forgot to mention that every once and a while the car will jerk when accelerating. I have a coworker who said his truck started to jerk forward and later would not start at all. Our mechanic said it was the fuel pump. I I will see what that does for him.
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So I was pulling out of the parking lot at work in first gear going about 10mph when I heard a loud clang and lost power to the wheels, I just had the car towed home and its dark out so i haven't gotten a chance to really take a good look.
My question is, how did this happen? the car is lowered on coils. I also Installed a B&M short shiftier about 3 weeks ago, i doubt it but could that have anything to do with this?
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I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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Quick 4x4 always on... Is there a way to permanently lock the front wheels? My than ferry case works to engage the front axle. But the wheels are not engaging. I have put enough money in to it and would like to permanently lock the front wheels.
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I have a 1997 f250 2wd 8800lb with dual tanks with the 5.8l. Recently the truck will all of a sudden stop running, always at idle. I switch to the other tank and after 5 secs. of cranking it starts. Switch back to the front tank runs fine. Same thing happens the next day, 3 consecutive days now. Is this something I can fix at home or do I need to get the truck to a shop.
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I got my b2500/ranger a couple of months ago and I've had very poor gas mileage. I replaced the air filter, changed the plugs, no luck. The truck has 169,000 miles. I haven't checked my exact gas mileage but from what i am seeing its horrible. I filled it up last night, not completely full but really close the full marker. In the morning i drove to school (7 miles) drove home, so 14 miles. Then i had to go back out by my school to pay back a friend. All in all about 28 miles. This cost me a little more than a quarter of a tank. The 2.5l has a 16 gallon fuel tank, so if my calculations are correct im getting about 8 miles to the gallon. I also took it the consideration that it was a half gallon from full.
And it wasn't just past below a quarter to full it was 3/4 of the way to a quarter from full. I know that i didn't test the mpgs "properly" but i think its close enough to draw a conclusion from. And keep in mind its not a 4.0, its a 2.5! Although i do think the engines size contributes to the mpgs because it takes ALOT to accelerate in this truck. At 2k rpm im barely accelerating from a stop light. And on the highway my engine stays a 2500 rpm doing 60-65. I am really hoping I can fix this because I don't want to drive around in a civic. Plus I need a truck for scrapping which is how I pay for gas as i am 17 and jobs are scarce. Also I know about cleaning the MAF butit has tamper proof torx on it which i do not have the tools to remove. I think it could also be the o2 sensors.
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I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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My wife just handed me her 2001 BMW X5(165,000 miles...new engine at 97,000) because they offered only $2000 on a trade-in. It still looks great - better than my Tundra with numerous whiskey blisters delivered by misbehaving cows. The Beemer tires are in good shape BUT the car has developed a loud knocking noise in rear end when you accelerate from a full stop (scares the heck out of you because it sounds like the backend is going to fall off). If you accelerate slowly it doesn't always knock, but other drivers try to run over you. Just had the air levelers repaired. My local mechanic thinks it is the drive shaft but not sure and won't touch it until something breaks or falls off. My question is - if it is the drive shaft and it falls off while driving - is this going to be a dangerous problem? Our mechanic doesn't seem too concerned and just doesn't want to tear it apart to check the noise. If possible (financially) I would like to repair it but will have to drive it to a bigger town to have it done. Or should we just throw in the towel and donate it to NPR?
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So, I had a great time rallying the 2003 1.8t when at some point it bottomed out. Now when driving the car, if you press on the brakes (firmly) the engine vibrates, almost like the idle wouldve droped a little bit... But, if you ease on the brakes (very slow stop) Everything is all good. This vibration only happens when you make a sudden quick stop. What could it be?? Is it idle control? an engine mount? clogged air filter? a vacuum leak? Misfire?. this is not my car, its a freinds.
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My 2003 Ford Ranger XLT FFV V6 has been chirping when I accelerate, generally louder the quicker I accelerate. It stops when I am not touching the gas pedal (coasting). It does not chirp in reverse.
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2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
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when i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
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I just bought a 98 f150 about a month ago from someone. The guy i bought it from said the tranny had been rebuilt about 4 months prior and i have the invoice proving it. I have lately noticed a hard shift from first to second gear, all other gears shift perfectly, but on my way from work toady the tranny seemed to slightly slip out of gear(in other words the rpms didn't shoot up, just loss of power) when accelerating from a stop light, and then it seemed to catch and started shifting ok. my question is given these symptoms is it possible that i can make this tranny last a little while longer or is it about to quit? any possible causes?
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It did this funny thing about 4-5 times over a span of about 24 hrs before dying and then won't start. It was like hitting the limit on a speed governed car.....sudden momentary loss of power..and it seemed to be when accelerating if that matters. The thing I'm sure of at this point is that the fuel pump is not coming on when the key is turned, I know that sound well, but also checked it at the external connector with a test light for thoroughness. I also found a blown fuse under the hood which coincided with a little smokey smell inside the car when the fuse was replaced and blew again.
There is no spark as well. My Haynes book says that the PCM is behind the passenger kick panel but I only see the eecv and it doesn't smell burnt. The IFS is good. There is power at the coil packs. Fuel pump relay fuse is good. Is it more likely the ccrm since it contains the fuel pump relay and PCM relay or could it still be the eecv? It feels like one part failed but is causing more than one "problem", no power to fuel pump and no spark.
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On my '88 Ranger, there is the key lock that needs to be pressed to remove the key. When I changed the ignition cylinder, I darn near went ahead and removed it. I though I better check here first, and see if I was going to disable some other function I don't know about.
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Replaced serpentine belt and idler pulley today to stop this noise. Nothing changed but we eliminated anything near the belt. Tensioner had been replaced two years ago. Loud squeal starts slowly after starting then builds. It's constant and seems to come from the top of the engine where there are no turning parts. Both fans are running OK. Noise is synched with spinning of the engine. It's a 3.0 liter V6, vintage 2003. Appr. 63,000 mi. Any guesses?
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