Ford - Ranger :: 2003 - Knocking Noise When Over 80 Degrees After 15 Minutes Of Driving
Jul 12, 2014
My '03 Ranger started making a knocking noise last summer after 15 minutes of driving but only when the temp. outside is over 80 degrees or so. It stopped during the cold months but has resumed this summer. It is a low knocking sound and a) the vehicle must be moving, b) it has to have been moving for 15 minutes or so and c) it must be over 80 degrees outside. I can feel it under my feet and thru the steering wheel but mechanics say that they don't hear it and can't find it because they are getting into the vehicle after it has had a couple of minutes to cool down. Mechanics tell me that they have checked the universal joint and that it is fine. I need a brave mechanic to drive along side of me in another vehicle, going 45 miles per hour for 15 minutes and then they need to jump over into the driver's side and take over the wheel (like in the movies) so that maybe we can find what is making the noise. It makes this noise whether the vehicle is in 4wd or 2wd or the A/C is on or not.
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I have a 1998 Camry V6 with 165000 miles. I had brake pads and rotors replaced on all four tires. Two days later, I noticed a flapping/knocking noise apparently coming from the rear of the car. It only happens after the car as been driving for 5-10 minutes. The noise increases in frequency as the speed of the vehicle increases and is unaffected by braking or bumps and gets louder the longer the car is driven. I took the car back and they re-checked all the brake installations and said everything was fine and the noise was nothing to worry about (of course I had to convince them that there really was a noise). They also said they inspected the tires and didn't find anything wrong. I have jacked the car up and looked under all tires and don't see anything close to the tires that could be hitting them. It sounds like a strip of rubber hitting a metal pan. I see no loose plastic guards or mudflaps. The tires were all replaced less than 2 years ago and they have been rotated regularly and visually appear to be in good shape.
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My 2003 Ranger 2.3L When I purchased it in 2005 I never noticed this tapping noise until in 2007 when Tennessee forced 10% Ethanol added to fuel. That is when the noise started.
What this could be. I have since moved to Texas and found a station that sells Ethanol Free gas, but that does not remove the noise.
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I'll drive my 2000 Ford Ranger, 4cyl XLT about 5 miles to the store without a problem. On the way home, after a few miles, the clutch pedal will either jam at the top, or go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. If I wait 5 or 10 minutes, the clutch pedal will start working again for a short time.
If I feel the clutch pedal starting to misbehave, if I ride the clutch and don't release the clutch pedal all the way, and if I don't push the clutch pedal all the way down, I can keep driving the truck. As soon as I release the clutch pedal, it will jam up again, or the clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. I don't like riding the clutch, but that seems to be the only way to get home once the clutch pedal starts jamming.
It certainly seems related to the engine warming, or heating up. Sometimes, after the clutch jams up, I'll wait 5-10 minutes and the clutch pedal will start working as if nothing every happened. So, it can't be strictly a hot engine, hot clutch fluid issue, right?
What would you attempt to replace first, the Slave Cylinder? The Master? Changing the fluid? Shooting the truck!?
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So I have had an issue with my Ranger. When the car is cold it's fine. After a while...maybe 20-30 minutes of driving, the clutch will start to stick. No better way to describe it. I will take my foot off and it will stick on its way back. It starts subtle but the this will gradually get worse and eventually the clutch will seize up and I can't press it anymore and the car stalls and I'm stuck. The car cools off and everything will be fine no problem.....but the problem keeps resurfacing.
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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Had the top half of the intake off (2.3L) and fixed some vacuum leaks and replaced a power steering pump. Started truck and it ran funny like missing on one cylinder then cleared up then started making a loud knocking noise and running rough. Assumed that it swallowed something when I had the intake off and it got into a valve or into the cylinder. I pulled the plugs and there are no obvious signs of a problem. I also did a compression test and all 4 were around 150psi.
Put the plugs back in and started it and the same noise was there. Removed the serpent belt just in case it was power steering pump related and the noise was still there when I started the truck. Sounds like something is inside the engine still. Going to get a friends bore scope to check further. I guess I will split the manifold again and run the scope in there. Pending that I may also look down the plug holes with the scope. This is a major bummer. Not what I needed.
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I have a 2001 ford ranger 2.5 and a standard 5 speed. Its been knocking for a while now and recently its made a much lower tone knock, I am thinking I may have thrown a bearing. Also I am wondering what other engines I can use, besides the 2.5.....
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I have a 91 Ranger 4cyl. Tune up about 2 months ago. Mileage about 178,000. When the temperature gets below about 45 degrees, the truck will not start. It cranks like the battery has plenty of juice but refuses to start. Once the temp warms up, the truck will start first crank.
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2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
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I'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
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I replaced my gpr on Friday night and my remote to lock the doors worked just fine. Saturday morning they unlocked just fine as well drove it thirty minutes and went to lock my doors with the remote and it didn't work. So could this just be crazy timing for it to stop working or could it be related?
I have a 2000 f250 4x4 I've tested with all three remotes I have for it and none of them work where would I start to test and see if it is just bad connections or dirty ones?
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I dropped my car(2003 explorer XLS) for a brake pad work at an auto shop. but when I went to pick it up, the engine made big knocking noise when starting. the mechanic told me seems the engine having problem. he was shock too because he admitted the car was fine when I dropped it.
He didn't do anything except the brake work and top of some oil(I told him to check the coolant and oil level). I towed it to dealer and was told the engine is bad, I need a new engine. he didn't give exact diagnosis, said that will cost more than $900. he also said the mechanic seems didn't do anything wrong.
The car doesn't show any other symptom except the noise, what might be the problem? I want to try whatever I can before rebuild the engine.
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Ok so this past weekend I finally got my car up and running with kinetics stage 3 kit took it out for a drive plenty of times this weekend everything turned out great. Car pulls really hard. I also installed some new coilovers and spacers. This morning I woke up and drove my car to my local general tire shop to get aligned. When driving It first sounded great but after about 10 min, And yes I punched it a few times, the car started to make a wahh wahh wahh wahh wahh wahh wahh wahh wahh. With the speed of the car. Not from the engine! Now I'm hoping it's a wheel bearing or something because I've never heard one before.
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I have a Mazda MPV and am hearing a noise coming from under my car after I have been driving for about 10 minutes. It sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel that needs to be oiled on one side. It seems to speed up when I am going faster, but as soon as I step down on the brake pedal, it stops completely, even if my car is still moving. As soon as I lift my foot off the brake pedal, the noise is back. My car guy could not get the car to make the noise, but I hear it everyday. He checked the brakes and said they are fine.
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Subaru Outback 2003 4 cylinder runs ok first several minutes then starts to skip. Appears to be maybe EGR related? Plugs/wires/dist ignition are ok. The car was double filled with oil the started, smoked. Could that affect the ECR or PVC? Could this damage the fuel injectors?
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Noise goes away (or maybe it quietens to the point that you can't hear it) when you raise the idle just slightly. No smoking, no hard to start, no rough idle, no indicators of anything wrong at city or highway speed, nothing else out of the ordinary to report.
275K miles
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2001 F-150 4.2L automatic, 189k mikes. Gas pedal would do weird knocking/vibrating. It would do it at idle & under acceleration. Gas pedal would knock & sometimes slightly move or kick back at you. Felt like someone was lightly hitting it with a small hammer. Well there is not much to the gas pedal assembly; pedal, throttle cable & mounting bolts/plate. Looking under hood, a bracket from drivers side of motor was pushing back against firewall, which was pushing into gas pedal mounting bolts. I grabbed the bracket & it came off motor. Nothing else attached to bracket. Looks like it rusted off and was pinned between motor & firewall. Well, this fixed the gas pedal problems. But now i wonder what the bracket is & whats it suppose to hold??
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I have had a noise in the front of the engine of my 2002 f150 4.6 for about 2 weeks. On my way home my oil light came on made a knocking noise and shut off. The engine would not start back starter would engage but not turn motor it was seized. i called a tow truck and had it towed home. The next day just out of curiosity I tried to start it. It fired up ran and built oil pressure. If the oil pump froze will that make it . Can the oil pump make the engine act seized up?
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07 That has 138K miles. The noise starts around 10 minutes of driving. Th engine sounds like a diesel engine. The noise has lasted 5 to 10 minutes. Then shut it off and it won't return til the next morning...Same thing. THIS DOES NOT SEEM TO OCCUR on start-up. It has to run for about 10 minutes (moving) or so. Changed out the water pump. The noise is coming from near or behind the water pump.
My mechanic is stumped but he pretty much thinks it's coming from behind the water pump. That leads me to believe it's the timing chains/tensioner's etc. But the time it starts up is throwing me off. When it is cold I think I can hear a little clacking that shuts off quickly after oil pressure gets going but it's not really the same sound that were are hearing when moving and the crazy sound starts and it is LOUD!
We were thinking it was the timing belt tensioner however, it is not behaving like it should.
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I get it at random times but for the life of me can't figure it out. I thought it had to do with the locks or something, only notice it in the first 15 minutes of driving the car.
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