Ford - Ranger :: 2000 XLT V6 Quit While Driving On Highway / Engine Is Blown
Aug 1, 2012
My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 (139,XXX miles) V6 3.0, recently quit on me while driving on the highway. It will no longer start. I spoke to a mechanic and he informed me to fill the radiator (which was empty) and attempt to start the truck with the radiator cap off. He said that if radiator fluid gushed out then the engine is blown. Is this necessarily the only cause, that my engine is in fact blown.
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Driving down the highway today, my car just all of a sudden quit. I had it towed home, and checked the spark and fuel pump. It turns over fine, there's plenty of spark, and the fuel pump works great, but I don't think fuel is getting all the way to the engine. Could the fuel line be blocked or something? Maybe the injectors?
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I was driving down the highway when I lost all oil pressure soon after I lost power steering and the engine died. I have checked the radiator and it is still full of fluid pulled the starter off and try to crank it it still turns the cannot get the engine to turn over it clicks but wont turn over there are no oil leaks underneath the vehicle that I can see. I'm just not sure where to go or what to do from here
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I have a 2000 Ranger, V6 4L, and I believe my head gasket is blown, my radiator fluid goes straight to the oil pan. It has probably been leaking for a while, I did not realize it was leaking internally, I had been adding coolant for a few months but thought it was my radiator leaking because it had a crack in the housing, so I had that changed, but then a few weeks after that It gave out. I drained, and flushed the engine twice, and just parked it. My question is, should I just have the head gasket changed, or does it need a new engine because it had been leaking for a while and not sure what kind of damage it has done internally.
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Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
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A few weeks back just after buying a new front hub assembly (so I know I have Live Axle 4x4 and 4WABS), a dude on an excavator pulled out in front of me on a blind curve on an interstate exit ramp. Almost got him, then almost got got by the car behind. The hard stop caused a rear line to blow.
When I got home, fluid was still coming out when I pushed the pedal, so the first thing I did was top off the reservoir. I was surprised it was not empty.
I finally got lines that would fit, and replaced both sides. Fast forward a few weeks and I had time to bleed the system. I hooked my vacuum pump to the right-rear wheel cylinder port, opened it and began to pump. Pump, pump, pump, and still no fluid. Tried a few times. Left the pump on, opened the port, (charged the battery), started the truck and pumped the pedal - no fluid. Also, the fluid level did not change in the master.
Master cylinder bleed? Do I need to have the ABS motor bled?
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, 5spd with 3.0 v6. The speedometer will jump around or quit about half the time whenever you push the brake pedal or use the turn signals. I've cleaned all the grounds I can find including taking the battery cables off the clamps and cleaning them, and I had to clean all the fuses (inside box and outside box) because most of them were corroded. It still does it. Occasionally, I'll hear a buzzing/crackling noise like electricity arcing when I use the brakes or the turn signals which sounds like it's coming from the left side of the dashboard.
I took off panels and the fuse box, but I don't see any sign of arcing. Also, the noise only occurs when the truck is actually moving, never when it's sitting still. Also, the engine has a slight flutter at an idle. I hooked up a computer, and the O2 sensors were erratically jumping between rich and lean, so I replaced all of them. It says Insufficient EGR flow detected, so I did put a new EGR valve on and cleared the codes, but it still reads the same. And lastly, the computer refuses to finish either of its diagnostic tests. I've tried the Koeo and the koer tests, and neither will complete.
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About a month and a half ago I was doing 70mph down the highway and the truck began to lean out sputtering and sounding like fuel was not getting there, when I pulled over on the side of the highway because it killed itself and then the car would not start I noticed the ox sensor for the 3rd cat was ripped out from being caught on the driveline, I removed ox sensor and car still wouldn't start. I took the truck to my buddies shop and after a new ox sensor was installed with some effort the truck started 30minutes later, I did not think this was reason for the truck to not start but after a day it was running like a top again, little did I know. Last week driving down the highway ironically in the same spot as before the truck did the same thing sputtered to a stop and would not restart.
Side Note: on both of these occasions after the truck would sit for a day it would start run for about 5 seconds and die???? So I had it towed home again and began reading FTE, I saw posts about fuel pressure and spark and P0176 code for Flex Fuel, Inertia Switch and so on.
So I started with Fuses they all look good then the most popular post and 2 of the codes were P0176 and P0177 for flex Fuel they read OBD II flex fuel wont start....Another code was for EVAP and 3 codes for heater bank(it turned out to be a fuse but is or could something trip this to send the car down this path?
I Then figured I would try the Fuel Filter..This did not work.
2nd I tried was Fuel pump pressure is good based off others posts.
So I bought the Flex Fuel Replicator that eliminates the need for the flex fuel sensor, from the guy in Portland, well this didn't work either. Next I went to spark checked all plugs they smelled like gas and were slightly fouled I had just replaced these about a year ago but hell why not? so I replaced and got nothing still also checked the oil had some gas smell to it but my buddy said this was normal with trying to get it to turn over without success.
Checked inertia cut off it was normal, checked fuses they were good(except heater which has been replaced). Now I am stuck...
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On my '91 last week I was driving on the highway about 60-65 when all of a sudden the speedo dial started climbing to 70-75-80-85 and past. The odometer seems to be working ok? Still when I drive it still operates in the same manner. It never bounces around or falls back. The needle is sort of stable such if I maintain a speed the speedo will maintain even though it's incorrect. There is a slight wavering of the needle meaning it's not as stable as it use to be. With the odometer working I was wondering and don't know. Does the cable drive the needle or is it electrically controlled? I'm thinking of grabbing another instrument cluster it that is the problem, I'd like to know more about it and understand how it works so I don't just throw parts at it until it's fixed.
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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I have a 2000 excursion 6.8l v10 4x4. While driving on the highway and reaching 80mph, the suv starts making this grinding sound like it's trying to get into gear. The SUV starts to shake. when i drive at a lower speed it goes away. it doesn't make the grinding sound while driving on back roads. What could it be?
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2000 Passat GLS V6 Manual Transmission 102k miles
I was stopped at a light tonight making a left hand turn, I had the car in 1st gear and the my foot on the clutch. I slowly released the clutch and proceeded to make my left hand turn, halfway thru the turn the car made a noise that sounded like a pop (almost as if something came apart underneath the front end of the car and was loose) and then my manual transmission went into neutral. I slowly coasted to the side of the road and had the vehicle towed.
After I had coasted to the side, I tried putting the car into gear and the engine would rev up but the vehicle would not go forward or reverse. I tried all 5 gears and reverse. While sitting there the car would beep and the screen would say "hand brake on" and if I put the car into first this message would go off. The message only came on about 2 times in 5 minutes and never stayed on.
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OK,it's a Taurus but it's the 3.0 Vulcan.On the highway crusing easy,now and then I'll get a stumble.It's like the key is turned off and back on.The tach stays steady but the car stumbles like the key was cycled quickly.I had to put a fuel pump in it a few weeks ago and now it is starting every time but this stumble has me stumped.
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I have an 02 GS with automatic transmission. The speedometer quit working and now the transmission does not shift out of 1st while driving. CEL is on but I'm waiting for a friend to come over and get the codes. It shifts into drive and reverse fine but I'm wondering if there is a speed sensor in the speedometer that signals the tranny when to shift?
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So I was driving for 6 hours yesterday and about 3 hours in my boost completely cut out on the highway. I didn't get any CEL or EPC light or anything. I took a look under the hood and everything looks okay. I also thought maybe the turbo blew but it isn't smoking or anything. What it could be?? Or some way I can diagnose the problem?? I have a 6 hour drive back home and would like some boost! It is a 2000 Passat 1.8T ....
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My 2007 F150's turn signals and hazard lights quit working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Once I pulled the old fuse out the truck wouldn't start at all. What happened?
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My car died while driving on the highway. The mechanic said it was the distributor, but also that the fuel pump wasn't working. When he replaced the distributor, the car works, no fuel pump problem. Does the fuel pump shut off when the engine dies or is this going to be another problem down the road? 2000 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi...
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
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Subie was driving fine...drove it on highway and went to park and NO reverse. At first, I couldn't shift into park either, but then I was able to shift in park. I can move the gear to reverse, but nothing happens (engine just revs and car wants to roll forward as it is on slight incline. Hubby checked trans fluid and it was a bit low, added fluid, but still no reverse.
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2000 Mercury VIllager. Driving down the street and the engine just quit. Got it over to the side and tried to restart. It was cranking just fine but wouldn't start. after a bit I let it rest and tried again. It did start and I drove it back home. Service Engine soon light is now on. No battery problems or starter motor issues as it cranks find. It starts but sometimes there is a screeching noise as it kicks in. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key.
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I'll drive my 2000 Ford Ranger, 4cyl XLT about 5 miles to the store without a problem. On the way home, after a few miles, the clutch pedal will either jam at the top, or go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. If I wait 5 or 10 minutes, the clutch pedal will start working again for a short time.
If I feel the clutch pedal starting to misbehave, if I ride the clutch and don't release the clutch pedal all the way, and if I don't push the clutch pedal all the way down, I can keep driving the truck. As soon as I release the clutch pedal, it will jam up again, or the clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. I don't like riding the clutch, but that seems to be the only way to get home once the clutch pedal starts jamming.
It certainly seems related to the engine warming, or heating up. Sometimes, after the clutch jams up, I'll wait 5-10 minutes and the clutch pedal will start working as if nothing every happened. So, it can't be strictly a hot engine, hot clutch fluid issue, right?
What would you attempt to replace first, the Slave Cylinder? The Master? Changing the fluid? Shooting the truck!?
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