Ford - Ranger :: 2000 - Recovery Tank Cap Keep Popping Off
Jan 16, 2014
My husband just bought a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4. On the way home from work the recovery tank cap kept popping off. When he got home the radiator was cool to the touch, hoses were warm. He removed the radiator cap and no coolant was showing but the over flow tank was full. I looked in the recovery tank and it looked brown which to me indicates a head or head gasket problem. I checked the oil and it was clean and seemed to be slightly overfilled.
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After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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The engine oil is being sucked into the cooling system and filling up the coolant recovery tank. It's a peanut butter mess. The radiator is loaded also and I can't what the passages in the block look like. Some say its a head gasket but why would crank case be empty. I would think there would be coolant mixed with oil in the crankcase. I think its a engine porous issue. The vehicle was bought used with 133k miles and a 3 month warranty.
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My friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
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Anyway here's the problem. My son has a 2000 Ranger 3.0L V6 he left me when he had to move back up to Las Vegas. I was out checking it out today and pulled the radiator cap, man what a mess. It looks like reddish mud in there and the overflow tank. It's not milky like oil in there it's more like mud. It's caked up on the bottom of the cap and inside the filler neck and the coolant looks the same.
So the questions are, what's the best way to clean it all out and what would cause it?
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My wifes santa fe 2.0t has been a pain.
When turning the car off a popping noise comes from under the gas tank area. The dealer heard in months ago and said its normal. It's still doing it. What could this be?
I also find that her emissions seems to smell very strong when the car is idling in the lane way and the door is open even when the car is warmed up.
I find her rear suspension really rough as well. When she takes bumps in the road the rear suspension hits them hard causing the car to bang when she hits them.
Her gas mileage is 13.4 regardless of driving lightly in the city.
Maybe im just anal but Is any of this normal?
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I have a 08 r32, hearing a popping noise that sound like its coming from fuel tank. When sitting not running in garage, bout 15 to 20 seconds between pops. Maybe evap system? Just notice after filling up with gas.
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I think I heard this noise before but I didn't pay much attention until a few days ago. I thought the garage door makes that noise when I close the door.
When the engine is off, whenever the last door is closed, the popping noise occurs. The noise gets louder if I close the door harder.
When the engine is on, it's the opposite. The first door opened causes the popping noise.
It's a 07GS350AWD.
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My M5OD in my 1999 Ranger 4x4 with 3.0 occasionally pops out of 3rd gear. I think it does it only under light throttle or coasting. Also some vibration, especially in 3rd gear. Once in a while the gears grind when shifting into third. Truck has 145,000 mostly highway miles. Frequent fluid changes with Redline D4ATF.
What could be the cause, bad synchros ? How hard is it to remove the transmission and make a repair for something like this, what kind of special tools, etc. I assume a transmission jack would be real useful, what else would I need other than the normal wrenches and sockets ? Is there a good shop manual recommended for doing this repair ?
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My 2002 2.8 diesel ranger has recently been serviced replacing the turbo and a complete overhaul on the engine performed. I road tested it and it runs smooth... However, I am hearing a popping sound coming from the intake air filter. I was told it is because of the new turbo installed.
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While in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
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My overflow tank seems to be going empty slowly. The last time I filled it was in March and I filled it to the Full line. Now, the overflow is almost empty. I did 425 KM last night almost non-stop and the level stayed the same since that night and today. So, I am not burning any thru the gaskets. Exhaust is not white neither.
I did see one suspect thought. I have this really small rad at the bottom of the bumper and it seems a little wet around the tubes that enter it. Could it be that? I have no spots on the driveway or road when I park. Specs of my truck:
190 000 KM.
Oil changed on Saturday.
Runs well, no loss of power.
Temps are good.
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So my new/old 2004 has another issue. Parked at the grocery store tonight on a very slight incline backwards. Put the Ranger in park (automatic shift) and before I could fully engage the parking brake it began to roll back with a clunk, clunk, clunk as if popping out of gear.
Need less to say I moved to another spot that was more level. Just an hour before I parked the same way on a steeper incline and did not get this. Now I need to watch this carefully until resolved. How to remedy this issue.
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I filled up with gas this week on my 92 Ranger extended cab and when it got to full I noticed it was leaking down the side of the tank in-line with the filler neck. I couldn't make out exactly where it was coming from. It wasn't coming out of the filler neck I know. I noticed I had been smelling a strong gas smell but I thought it was a bad gas cap. I've never dropped a tank on any of my Rangers. I've also got a 93 and 98 regular cab but always had someone do it. I know that on my 98 the big plastic lock ring deteriorated over time and I had to have it replaced because it was leaking when I filled it up. I'm suspecting the same on this 92. I got a print out of the fuel tank and components from Ford trying to prepare myself to have everything I need if I try and drop the tank myself to check. It looks like it has one of those plastic lock rings, a filler neck grommet, and some kind of vapor grommet. It shows some kind of shield over the fuel pump assembly. Will I need anything special to remove that big plastic lock ring, the hoses, or to drop the tank? I know it's got that heat shield around it. It looks intimidating. I don't want to break anything but can't afford to keep paying all the labor to get the small problems fixed on this Ranger. The only fuel tanks I've dropped and changed were on my 65 Valiant and 73 Charger but they required no special fuel line removal tools. Is anything going to be hard removing this fuel tank? I probably will put in a new fuel pump just to, since it's running the original 22-year-old fuel pump.
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How/why does fuel transfer from front tank to rear tank ? I put 6 gallons in front, drove about 5 miles, parked over night, all fuel now in rear tank which was empty.
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how can you tell if your vapor recovery system is faulty? I cannot fill my gas tank unless I very slowly put gas in. It takes forever to even put in a few gallons. I think the vent is plugged or I overfilled the tank and got gas in the canister.
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2000 Excursion V10 4x4. I'm getting a popping noise coming from the rear end when I apply the brakes and come to a complete stop and when I release the brakes to take off. It only happens the moment it comes to a complete stop and the moment it takes off. Not when I'm putting it in forward or reverse or accelerating or decelerating. U joints are fine. I was laying under the truck poking around the other day and when I roll it back and forth in park the few inches it'll go, when it comes to the end of it's travel the axle wraps a little and it seems like the transfer case output shaft flange is moving in and out of the transfer case and causing the noise. I'm assuming there is a snap ring holding the output bearing in place. I didn't have time to drop the driveshaft but am planning on it this weekend to see if it still does it when I roll it and to inspect the transfer case. I need to check to make sure the driveshaft splines are not seized up but they seem to have a little free play to them.
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My car makes a grinding/popping noise when driving that worsens when I go over bumps and that completely stops if I even touch the brakes. When I accelerate, the noise speeds up as well. I took it to a mechanic about three months ago and he said it was a loose bumper and that he secured it. After leaving, the noise got louder and happened more often. Sometimes the noise doesn't happen, while other times it does. My dad changed my front brake pads about a month ago so it can't be those. Is it possible that it is still my bumper making the noise? If so, I don't understand why it would stop when I brake.
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Recently purchased a 2000 ford f150 4.2l. started hesitating when i would try to accelerated stressed or when a.c on. if i drive it like a grandpa wont do it. filled up the gas tank and it completely went away. the second it went down to the 3/4 line, started hesitating again. mind you when it was full even with the a.c on and going 80mph on expressway it would not hesitate.
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I'd like to understand the rate of braking that results in the maximum recovery of energy into the battery. I try to brake so that the needle goes down almost to the bottom of the 'charge' region, but not so strongly that the needle completely bottoms out. I figure that if the needle bottoms out completely, I am using the friction brakes. Is that the correct way to use the brakes? What technique to achieve 40mpg use?
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I have a 2000 expy with the 5.4 just turned over 200k. I bought the upper and lower radiator hoses awhile back and finally gotta chance to change them out. I noticed i got the wrong bottom hose so I only swapped out the top hose. I filled it back up with 1.5 gal of distilled water. After I drove it about 60 miles I checked the overflow tank and noticed copper colored flakes in it. Im assuming the previous owner put some stop leak in it but not sure Ive never had any problems as far as overheating or losing coolant. What else could it be? Im going to get the right bottom hose and do a flush. Can I use the bottom hose I have, its got the two extra hoses for the oil cooler? I was just going to connect the two hoses together but not sure if that will cause a problem.
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