Ford - Ranger :: 2000 - Engine Starts Sputtering And Losing Power At 50 MPH
May 25, 2011
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger, small v-6, automatic, no AC, windows, door locks, this has a heater and radio. This truck runs fine until I try to climb up the mountains (Colorado) and at app. fifty mph the engine starts sputtering and losing power. More than just an engine ping. When I run on flat ground while pulling a fifteen hundred pound load it runs fine with no sputtering or loss of power. Mechanics here are stumped.
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My 2003 2.3L used to run bad... it had a lot of lag to it when i would try to accelerate. The check engine light was on so i got it checked, and the reading said o2 sensor high voltage or something like that... anyways, i purchased a new sensor (i researched, and found there is only an upstream o2 sensor), replaced it, and the truck ran WAY better, no more lag during acceleration, it was crisp. As i was driving home one day, i was accelerating up a hill, and at about 4000 RPM, the truck almost dies and starts sputtering.
The check engine light started flashing, so i new it was serious, but luckily i was able to make it back to my house. When i got home, i looked under the hood and noticed that #2 & #3 spark plug caps had popped off the spark plugs. What I don't understand is what would have caused that to happen in the first place.... Is it a clogged Catalytic convertor, or is the o2 sensor bad.... Ive read different opinions and technical diagnostic possibilities, but man, i don't want to throw a bunch of money at a truck that I'm really going to have for a few more months. but I need to get it fixed in the mean time.
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This began occurring after I hosed down my engine with degreaser, stupid me. Car will begin to sputter like it is losing power around 30-40mph, and then it's fine. Rarely it happens around higher speeds with the cruise control on around 65 its just fine and the CEL never came on. Well yesterday i pulled the battery cable for 30 minutes to let things reset, then i got a CEL, code P0030 which I think is an o2 sensor, so i guess it went bad from the water perhaps? What part I need, where it is located and how difficult this would be to do in the driveway?
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2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L for about a month has been sputtering/losing power when I come to a stop but keep it in gear. You can see the gauge drop when it sputter. Runs fine if I put it in park at the stop lights which I do because I feel as if may shut off (never has shut off). Replaced the crankshaft sensor and it had no effect. I so notice the same sputter when driving sometimes.
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My 2004 Santa Fe (4cyl) started sputtering and losing power, like it was about to stall out, then all of a sudden it'll regain power and drives fine. When the stuttering happens the check engine light comes on, but then when it regains power, the check engine light goes out. This seems to happen at highway speeds because I can't seem to recreate the issue driving around the neighborhood. I also can't scan for codes because I cannot get the CE light to come on (when I want it to). About 2 years ago I took it to the dealership for similar symptoms, with my car eventually stalling completely out and I couldn't get it to start back up. The problem then was crank shaft position sensor, which I had replaced.
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I have a 2001 chevy venture (254,000 miles) that has me baffled. It has been a great van but it started about a month ago sputtering and bucking and numerous times shutting off. Most times the engine light would NOT come on. It would get the hiccoughs and start bucking like someone learning to drive a stick shift for the first time. Once it sputtered hard enough to throw off the serpentine belt. I put a new timing belt on it last year when I redone the intake manifold gasket. Now its not shutting off but it has only about half the power it should and the engine light is starting to come on more often.
It bogs down and then it will try to go then bog down again. The engine light blinks for about 20 seconds then stops and goes out. When the engine light is on and stays on the code most often says system too lean, and a egr flow insufficient. It does have a vacuum leak in the hose going to the egr. Have ordered that, hasn't come in yet. Gas mileage is horrible. I have done new plugs, fuel filter and cleaned the K&N air filter. Someone suggested the catalytic converter. I dumped in a bottle of 'Cata-cleanse' from Autozone. No difference. A friend of mine had a venture doing the exact same thing. It was in the shop for 6mo with no luck. But his straightened out on its own and is running good now. I really don't feel like waiting 6mo to see if this will straighten out.
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My 2000 Ranger standard 4.0 4x4, started spitting and sputtering the other morning just when i was gone up hills then it would quit doing it. The other evening it got to where it don't idle, missing very bad, and wouldn't even pull itself up a slight grade, and the wife said there was flames and sparks coming out the exhaust. Now it wont even try to start, it just turns over. I put a different coil pack, wires, and plugs, and still nothing. I pulled the gas line off the frame fuel filter and its shooting gas out, and I got gas to the check port on top of the engine.
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On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
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My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
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Background - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
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I have another very odd problem with my 2003 F250 7.3 PS with 206000 miles on it.
I am visiting my parents and every time I go thru this certain area my truck will act up. The first thing that happens is the truck starts losing power and then it starts bucking like water in the fuel or the cam position sensor is giving out.
WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have drained the fuel filter assembly ( no water ) and a new cam position sensor has been installed (about 5000 miles ago, I even put old one back it to check it out same results). I have driven the truck all over the place and don't have an issue except in this ONE spot. I am beginning to think there is some kind of high powered RF going on in this area causing my truck to act up. I am thinking of hooking up my autoenginuity scanner up to it and hopefully see something going on.
Is there anything I can do to block this out if it is a RF problem. I think it is effecting my Pcm/ECM for then engine causing the truck to act up.
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My car has been running great. It has 125,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago I did a bunch of work. I changed the plugs, air filter, timing belt, ac belt, alt, belt, cooling flush, tranny flush and brakes. Everything was great until yesterday. I wanted to test the power so I was on the highway going up this long incline going relatively fast. As I get almost to the top of the hill, my car starts hesitating losing power and check engine light comes on. I make it off the exit and sputter to a commuter parking lot. I shut the car off, check under the car for leaks and check the fluids. Everything is ok. I start the car back up and its running fine again. I drive home then I drive to the parts store to have them check the codes. No codes found. He told me that the engine light needs to be on for them to find codes.
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Multi information display is not working. Also the 12v battery keeps losing power requiring jump starts.
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I'm driving a 1995 Mazda Protege with about 200,000 miles. It has been generally pretty reliable, and I have fixed things as necessary, but a DNR has been in place for awhile. The water pump is leaking coolant and need replacing it, so I'm driving it (and keeping the coolant topped off) while I arrange to get something else. The temp gauge stays in the normal range.
Yesterday on the road the car began to lose electrical power: the radio turned off, the gauge cluster and then the headlights got dimmer, etc. But it continued to run ok. When I got where I was going, I parked it for a few hours, then on the return trip the car started fine, the headlights and gauges were bright, but over the course of about half-an-hour they began to dim again. The car continued to run ok until I got where I was going and parked it. I'm not sure I want to drive it again until I figure out what's going on.
The battery is about six months old, and the alternator was replaced about two years ago. The serpentine belt is in place and seems to be in good condition. Battery connections and cables look ok. The "charging" warning light has never come on. The water pump has been leaking for a couple weeks, but this is the first time the electrics have acted weird. Would the alternator go bad this soon? Does the water pump affect the electrics? What do I look for?
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I have a 1999 7.3 with 260k miles. It is all stock with the exception of straight pipe. I got the truck about 8 months ago and have put about 5k miles on it. Have never had any issues with it. I was driving from Dallas to Houston and about 45 minutes into the trip my truck lost power. I was going about 65-70 mph and the service engine line came on and I lost power. It was running rough and was blowing white smoke. I let it sit for a couple minutes and started it back up and ran fine until 30 minutes later. It did this 2 more times on the way to Houston. Oil is good, coolant is good. Not over heating. Threw a code the first time but didn't throw it the other times. I brought it to a mechanic and he thinks it's the Wastegate.
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97 ranger 2.3l ... I have a problem where I'm losing full power (like cutting out) while under acceleration it's only for a split second almost like a hesitation. I got p1443 for the first time today and I was looking at my fuel trims and I noticed my long term FT is at 99.2% and never changes while my short term goes between negative and positive no more than 6%positive and like -4% I assume this is normal for short term but I really am just guessing on that. I am thinking perhaps I need a new fuel pump...but maybe I'm wrong...truck has a new fuel filter and a new evap purge solenoid...
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Ok I've got this 98 Ranger with the 2.5L and the 4r44e automatic. The engine is used and has about 100,000 miles now and is it a good state of tune - so I think. The transmission was a remanufactured I bought a few years ago that was built with the shift improver kit, Kevlar bands, extra planetaries, 4wd pan, and external cooler. It's now got 92,000 miles on it and it's been serviced every 30,000 with a fresh 4wd filter and Mercon V fluid. It's outlasted the last 3 transmission I've had in my Ranger. I've got 315,000 miles on the body. For awhile it was randomly losing power while driving like it wouldn't shift, almost like it dropped a couple cylinders, then as you kept your foot on the gas it would recover and rev up and shift.
Then sometimes randomly at stoplights it would shake at a stop and have no power at take off until it hits 30-40 mph. Sounds like a converter, is what I thought. But now it's doing it more often but not the shaking at stoplights as much as randomly losing power while driving normal speeds. Last night I drove it about 50 miles after doing a fresh filter and fluid change and this time it did it so much it threw a code up P1131. Even though that's a O2 sensor code, could it be hidden by a transmission valve body problem? One transmission shop said it could be a valve hanging up just by me describing it to him. Could this be ignition or fuel related or is it all tied in with the transmission problem, if it is even a transmission problem?
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2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.
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My 2000 deville (which i never drive) but start up and let run decided to give a BIG problem today. I went to charge my a/c up and when I started it it was running very rough... Last week it did it also but after letting it run it smoothed out but today it stayed same and was actually worse. I drove it around the block and check engine light was flashing and car was sputtering like it didn't want to go. Sputtering out of exhaust and exhaust was getting real hot and giving off smoke from behind tires area. it was actually starting to burn my grass. I don't understand why it would do this all of a sudden. I pulled codes and this is what was there
p01571
u1040
u1064
u1192
The only code that is usually in there is the tcc code and its been for years..
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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2001 GL 1.5 Litre. Car occasionally hesitates a little with AC off, but runs pretty well. But with the air conditioner on?
Stalls about 50% of time when backing with A/C on. From stoplights, sputters all the way through intersections with A/C on, sometimes backfires. On a few occasions, the Check Engine light will blink on and off while it's doing this. After it gains a little speed/rpm, though, it's all good again, light goes back off.
Had full tune-up just before we bought it 4,000 miles ago. Air filter clean. Not sensors, because the CEL goes back off by itself. What the heck? How could the A/C cause a backfire?
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