Ford - Ranger :: 1998 - No Crank Intermittently
Oct 5, 2014
I have a 98 Ford Ranger 4x4 automatic, in the last year it has developed an intermittent (every 4-6 weeks) no crank problem, it will usually start again within 2-24 hours.I started by replacing the starter motor/solenoid with a re-manufactured one but then about 6 weeks later it happened again. I tried to jump the starter but even then it would not start. I checked all of the fuses inside the truck and under the hood and they seem to be in good condition. The last time it died on me (until today) I called a tow truck but before they arrived it started, I took it straight to a mechanic but they could not replicate the condition! When they tried it started right up.
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I have 2000 Ranger 4.0L 4wd, 5sp ...
Just in the last month or so as out temps have been dropping off I've been having troubles getting her started. It happens both when the engine is cold, ie first start of the day, and after starting when warm. It did it a couple times last spring, but then all summer and fall I didn't have any problems (warm outside air temps) but, now its happening again. I'd say any time the Outside air temp is 40F or less, I am worried it won't start. IF i get her to start, everything else is just fine and she runs like a top. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far.
When I crank I will get a couple cylinders to fire for a second or two then it falters out behaving like fuel starvation. Then I crank again right away and nothing fires... just cranking over and over. If i wait a minute and crank again same symptoms or it will fire right up. Baffling!
I thought Idle Air Control valve and sticking fuel pump relay, so I threw new parts on, but no fix.
About 75% of the time if I turn the key on, hear the fuel pump running, turn key off and on, hear the pump again x3 and then attempt the start it is successful.
Unfortunately, I don't have a code reader, or fuel pressure test equipment. The check engine light is NOT ever on. DO I HAVE A FALTERING FUEL PUMP??? I've heard thats tough to change out.
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i have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
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What's wrong with my 98 ranger. automatic trans, rebuilt last year. over the summer i've replaced the battery and the alternator. oh, the radiator too, though why that would matter i don't know. believe it's the 4 cylinder, 2 wheel drive.
without any rhyme or obvious reason, sometimes it won't start. always after driving somewhere then parking. like after i go get groceries then go to return home. sometimes when i'm parking it'll stall out too.
electronics and ac come on when i turn the key, but no mechanical sounds at all. headlights aren't dimmed when i turn the key or anything. no clicks, no starter trying to rev, nothing. check engine light is not on. recently got it inspected (state inspection) and had the battery tested during an oil change at walmart. no problems found.
i discovered over the weekend that if i shift it into neutral and roll it a foot, come to a full stop, return to park, and try to start it, it works like nothing is wrong.
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1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
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I have a 98 Chrysler Concord Lxi with a 3.2 L V6. In the summer time when its hot The car will get warmer than normal (I have figured out that one of the cooling fans is out and needs to be replaced). That said. after running for a few hours on the highway and if sat idle with the temperature raised, if I shut the car off 9 times out of 10 when I go to restart the car it will crank and crank but will not fire. My guess is the computer shuts the fuel off.
I have to wait about 30 minutes and it will start. Sometimes it will start very rough with a carbon smell and the need to idle it high until it smooths out. Other times It will start with out having to wait but the idle is again rough and can smell carbon. I have looked online and found some have a solution of releasing the pressure of the fuel line as it could be a symptom of vapor lock. I have tried this and no pressure is released ( I have disconnected A/C Lines on previous cars only to find a large BOOM a mess in the garage and in my shorts!) so I know I am releasing the right Scraeder valve.
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So with 172,000 miles my truck has started a new trick. When I turn on the turn signals theyll flash or interrupt normally for a few times then stop. After I turn the signal lever off and back on again they start to flash again only to stop after several times. This happens to both the left and right hand sides. The emergency flashers seem to work alright. Is this a function of the indicator flasher SF631? If so, were exactly is it located?
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I have a 2011 F250 w/6.7 Powerstroke. Love it. In September I came out of work, turn the key to on position...no glow plug indicator light, no high pitch whine of the fuel pump and most importantly, it won't crank. Gauges all light up, but no glow indicator, no fuel pump sound and no crank. Get towed to dealer. Next morning they try it, and it starts right up. They can't get it to fail. Sent me home with no trouble found.
A few weeks later, same condition in my garage. I had thought that maybe there was some sort of safety switch that perhaps thought it wasn't in park. I put in neutral, roll back about 6 inches, glow plugs light, fires right up. Now I think I'm on to something. In the last 2 weeks, it happened 2 more times, and both times I'm able to get it to light up by rolling a couple inches. Then, last night, same problem, but parked against a curb. Try to push up hill, but no luck.
Have to get towed to dealer again. Tow truck drops at dealer, and because I knew it would, I tried to start, and it worked. Dealer called me, says they can't get it to fail (again), but found one battery was "bad". I'm not really buying the battery story, but also understand the dealer having trouble figuring out what is wrong when nothing goes wrong for them.
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I have a 2006 Ford Expedition with 95,000 miles that has a crank but intermittent no start problem. When it does happen, it will eventually start after one to two tries. I don't have to wait to start it again and I don't have any problems while it is running. Two or three times in the past two months it will sputter out and die (even though I am pressing the gas pedal) right after starting. I'll crank it again and it starts just fine. I have no problems while driving at freeway speeds or around town.
I never had any check engine lights come on so I replaced the battery and the fuel filter. I finally got two codes and replaced the fuel pump driver module and the fuel rail pressure sensor. The codes went off after replacing these two parts. I can hear my fuel pump turn on every time I start the vehicle. I have even taken the entire fuse panel apart to check Relay 303 which is soldered into the circuit board. It is fine and so is every other fuse in the panel.
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1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.
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I am having some intermittent long cranks when parked facing down hill (even very slight downhill). It seems like it only happens cold and is worse when parked for longer. Truck has all updated parts under the hood and is under warranty for another month. I would like to know where to start diagnosing (what would cause this symptom) since I'm sure it won't do it when I take it to the shop right before warranty is up for one last go over.
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Husband has 2002 Ford Ranger, 140K miles, meticulously maintained. Suddenly would not start on a Friday, fine on Saturday, not start on Sunday, started on Monday. Took to mechanic, all week everything started just dandy. They drove and hooked up to computer, nothing; cannot diagnose until actual problem occurs when they have vehicle Not ready to trade in.
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I have a 1998 F150, had this truck for just shy of 200,000 miles, never a major problem and now she's killing me. Turn the key, no crank,no start, the same time this started the radio also quit working. I can start her with a screw driver at the soleniod (new by the way) runs perfect after that. By the way it's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.6 v-8
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My '93 Ford Ranger died on the road three days ago. The motor simply stopped. Battery is good. the engine will crank but it will not engage. Had it towed to my Shade-tree mechanic he is puzzled. Says that trouble code 5931111111 indicates an air conditioning problem but that doesn't make any sense. The truck is 4 cylinder 2WD.
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I have a 1996 Mazda B2300 & I heard that it is similar to the Ford Ranger.
Well the thing won't crank or start.
This is what I have done so far. I wanted to put a RPM meter on it. I followed YouTube videos on how to do it. I cut the Tan wire w. the yellow stripes & try to connect the wire to thr RPM meter. Then it won't start soo idk what to do. I also took put the PCM too. (I was looking for the wire) Now be honest, I talked to a mechanic, he said thag I might have blown my PCM or Blown another fuse. But when i put the key in to crank, it won't start ot click at all. The lights come on & it wants to start but won't start.
Then my mechanic tried to start it by the... Idk what it is called but you can start it & it wont evet start. It will crank like crazy but will not start at all.
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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I have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
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It's a 01 Ranger 3.0 V6 5 spd 2wd. He drove home from work then the next morning wouldn't crank over. Turn the key and it doesn't even attempt to crank. All dash lights, headlights, etc come on. Battery is good. Took starter out and tested at parts store. Tested good. Clutch switch was good. Replaced ignition switch with no change. If I jump the solenoid on the starter it will turn the engine over. When turning the key I can hear the starter relay in the fuse block under the hood clicking. All fuses were good. I found the main engine ground wasn't hooked up to anything. I hooked it back up and still nothing. All battery connections were good but cleaned them anyway. Not really sure where to go from here.
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I have a 2000 Ranger 4.0L with intermittent no start. Have spark, fuel pressure is 55psi, temp sensors are reading correctly. When there is a no start condition I can pop the scharder valve, relieve the pressure on the fuel rail and it will start.
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1997 2.3 Ranger w/ 160,000 mi. Every few months it won't start, sometimes after just having been running fine. Symptoms:
-the dash lights will be dim or off completely
-the chime will be softer than normal
-the headlights will not work, or be dim
-the starter will sometimes briefly click, sometimes crank once, sometimes do nothing
-the emergency flashers will sometimes click much faster than normal
-if during one of these "episodes" it does start, the battery light will sometimes flutter on and off, and the meter will flutter a little higher than normal. The next time I stop it, it typically will have the same problem.
-it will typically start if i get it jumped
My battery, starter, plugs and wires are all fairly new. On occasion, when it is having this problem, and I am trying like crazy to start it, if when I turn the headlights on and they are no longer dim, it starts right up and runs fine.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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