Ford - Ranger :: 1997 - Vacuum Lines Coming Close To Hitting Serpentine Belt On The Front Of Engine
Jun 27, 2014
Ok, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
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I got a question, what is after ac hose vacuum left side on a 10 th gen 4.2l engine bay by the firewall, to the right of the blue thing, right of that on that line their is a 2 end diameter rubber vacuum line? What is that called, I need a replacement.
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I noticed my serpentine belt started squeaking about 3 days ago. And yesterday as I was driving to work I heard a clicking sound coming from the left side of the hood, then my car started to gradually shut down and white smoke was coming from the engine. When I got to the stoplight it completely turned off, but I was able to turn it back on again to turn into the parking lot before it shut off again. When I checked it there were no visible leaks, my reservoir for my coolant was still full, and my meter never went up indicating that my car was over heating. I'm not sure what's wrong with it, but after it sits for awhile it is able to turn back on again for a while.
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I noticed that one of my vacuum lines was bad on the driver's side. I've done a lot of reading on the 4WD systems and frankly I'm confused now. My understanding is that when in 2WD the solenoid is open pulling a vacuum on the actuators (IWE) which keeps them disengaged. When you switch to 4WD the shift motor on the transfer case sends power to the front wheels and the solenoid turns off the vacuum which engages the actuators sending power to the wheels. Therefore if there is a vacuum leak the actuators won't disengage properly.
Through my trouble shooting I've determined that I think the solenoid is working properly because I'm getting a vacuum when in 2WD and no vacuum in 4WD. I believe that both actuators are engaged and working properly when in 4WD. However, I must not be getting a vacuum to the driver's side actuator (hub) because the line is totally busted up and can't possibly hold a vacuum. However the passenger side line looks good to me. Does this mean that I've been driving around in "3WD"??? I don't seem to have any problems when in 2WD turning (no tire skip or hop).
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So here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
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So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
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So i have a 1998 4.0 ohv ranger and have been fighting belt squeak shortly after i got it. I've replaced the belt twice and the tensioner twice when i put a GATES belt on it stopped for like month. But its still squeaking. If i put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it the squeak stops. So i need to find a way to tighten the tensioner could i somehow jam it, our hook up a turn buckle bolt to manually tighten it, or use a different ford tensioner. I really need to do something cause this squeak is just down right annoying.
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I have a 1997 4.2 and when i got it the big vacuum reservoir under the passenger fender had the lines broke off. Where these lines go or have a diagram...
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2003 3.0 ranger... This will be my 3rd time replacing serpentine belt and if needed 2nd. time for idler, tension pulleys...NOT SURE WHAT TO DO, should i replace parts again?
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I have a 2003 f150 4.2 v8. and i have a squeaky belt I am almost positive its the belt i went to change it today but being sick,cold (NY), getting dark having just worked 10 hrs and changing oil it was not going well.
The reason I think its the belt it does not squeak when its really cold out but once it warms up a little its back so I am thinking when it gets warm it stretches out a little and when its cold it shrinks up or am I just crazy..
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Leaving on a 200 mile trip in the morning and when checking the fluids, I found the serpentine belt trying to get off the AC pulley. I've put in on twice and it immediately jumps half way off when starting the engine. How long it's been doing this. Nothing is obviously loose or moved. What is likely causing this?
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I have a problem with my 1997 aerostar. There is a squeaking noise that gets more significant when I turn. I am pretty sure this is the drive belt as the power steering fluid is fine. Should I attempt to replace the belt tensioner and if so is it just the pulley that needs replacing or the whole tensioner. I am by no means a mechanic but can figure most things out.
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
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A noise has been coming from my Serp belt for awhile. My serpentine belt doesn't have any wear. At least It doesn't look like it. Will this noise go away by replacing it? or is it something else? Is it the tensioner? I've noticed when car warms up the noise goes away. I do not know the last time it was replaced.
Here is a video : [URL] .....
Car - 2001 Jetta TDI with 230k miles.
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There has been a noise coming from the serpentine belt area for some times now, and I thought when I get to work on the belt I will get it fixed.
Last night, I replaced the alternator with a brand new one from idpart with a clutch pulley (the original pulley was plastic). I also replaced the tensioner and serpentine belt with this kit from ECS: [URL] .....
Everything was put back tight and nicely. Turned on the engine: the noise is still there.
For sure there is one pulley on its way out, but with one?
Video here: [URL] .....
Noticeable @ 0:47
It's a 2.0 AVH Jetta.
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Is it time to replace? There is a noise coming from the belt and when I listen with the hood up my best guess is that it's the tensioner. I'm not sure if it is easy to replace or if that is even the problem. The belt looks fine. It allows me to twist it barely less than halfway so to me it does not seem loose. But in the rain last week got the battery light and lost power steering, power brakes, etc, then it went back to normal and hasn't failed again since. The car has 131,000 miles.
Is there a way to check the tensioner? It's pretty tight in there. Or am I wrong as to what the problem is? The sound is a rubbing/slight clicking sound that is in time with the engine and you can hear it if you listen inside the car when the engine is on. The belt also seems to wander around on the tensioner just a little. One day it was about a mm in too much, a few days later, a few mm out, in relation to the pulley.
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Got a nice rattle coming from the serpentine belt area of the camry, before I order some parts, I'm thinking the bearing in the tensioner is done, I just don't want to swap it out only to find out its my water pump barking or alternator bearing/bushing. doesn't seem to be emanating from the alternator.
Here's the short video : [URL] ....
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So, when I was leaving work I started my car up and heard what sounds like a low grinding noise coming from the area where the serpentine belt is. Let the car idle and it remained.
Put the car in gear and drove off and the sound was still there. the sound gets louder as I increase my speed. It went away a couple of times when I was braking, then came back.
I stopped at the gas station and could still hear it. After getting gas, fired the car back up and heard nothing. When I drove off, the sound returned.
I got home and put it in park, leaving the car on, opened the hood and could still hear the noise. Pressed and held the gas a few times and the sound did get louder.
I am pretty sure it is coming from some rotating part, but no clue what part. What this could be?
recap:
-get noise on startup
-while driving noise gets louder
-sometimes it stops when braking
-sound coming from area of serpentine belt
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My fiance has a 97 Corolla had belt that was located near the engine block on the passenger side going long ways. This belt had a frayed edge since she and I started dating(over 2 years). Whenever asked about it, she said that any dealership or shop she took it to for something else said that it was fine or they didn't think it needed to be worked on/fixed. Alarms for me? Yes, but it's her car. For whatever reason, it hasn't been fixed.
Yesterday, the battery light kept flashing on and off and the steering became hard and sluggish, as if the power steering wasn't working. We got home and I opened it up and the belt was gone except for a few solid strands left.
So, is this the timing belt, or something else? And what is required to fix it?I'm also in the process of hunting down my Haynes book for this car still but wanted to ask the masses that exist here.After finding the book, it looks to be called the serpentine drive belt.
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