Ford - Ranger :: 1995 - Clutch Will Start To Stick After 20 - 30 Minutes Of Driving
Oct 18, 2015
So I have had an issue with my Ranger. When the car is cold it's fine. After a while...maybe 20-30 minutes of driving, the clutch will start to stick. No better way to describe it. I will take my foot off and it will stick on its way back. It starts subtle but the this will gradually get worse and eventually the clutch will seize up and I can't press it anymore and the car stalls and I'm stuck. The car cools off and everything will be fine no problem.....but the problem keeps resurfacing.
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I'll drive my 2000 Ford Ranger, 4cyl XLT about 5 miles to the store without a problem. On the way home, after a few miles, the clutch pedal will either jam at the top, or go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. If I wait 5 or 10 minutes, the clutch pedal will start working again for a short time.
If I feel the clutch pedal starting to misbehave, if I ride the clutch and don't release the clutch pedal all the way, and if I don't push the clutch pedal all the way down, I can keep driving the truck. As soon as I release the clutch pedal, it will jam up again, or the clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. I don't like riding the clutch, but that seems to be the only way to get home once the clutch pedal starts jamming.
It certainly seems related to the engine warming, or heating up. Sometimes, after the clutch jams up, I'll wait 5-10 minutes and the clutch pedal will start working as if nothing every happened. So, it can't be strictly a hot engine, hot clutch fluid issue, right?
What would you attempt to replace first, the Slave Cylinder? The Master? Changing the fluid? Shooting the truck!?
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95 ford ranger clutch pedal very hard when hot. Will not engage clutch. Ok after setting for 1 hour.
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
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I have a 95 s10 4.3L V6 auto with 92k miles.
This all started when one day on my way to work the temp gauge got to 260 then quickly fell. It has not gotten that hot since then.
When I start the truck cold and start driving, the gauge climbs to about 215-230 within 10 minutes of driving. Once the gauge hits what ever is the magic mark for the day it quickly falls (10 seconds or less) to about 170-180. Sometimes it will "cycle" up again to 200 or so then fall back to 170-180. Once it is done moving around it stays low and will not move much as I am driving.
I bought an IR thermometer and measured the temperature at various points in the cooling system. The top of the thermostat housing is about 195 or 200 right after it climbs and drops. If I drive for a while around town then check it, the housing reads hotter, about 220 max.
There does not seem to be enough temperature drop across the radiator, I have measured about 15 degrees difference max between the hoses and on some days only 10 degrees difference.
I have replaced the fan clutch (was bad or going bad), the thermostat, and the radiator cap.
After none of this fixed it, I took it to a mechanic who did a "block test" at my request and said it was fine. He thought what it was doing, climbing and falling was normal.
If I run it without the radiator cap on I do not see much if any flow when I look down into the radiator.
Right now I am thinking of doing the water pump and flushing the radiator this weekend.
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My 95 3000gt is smoking after about 30 minutes of driving. Smokes mainly when idle and upon acceleration. car has about 200k in mile. what could cause this.
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My '03 Ranger started making a knocking noise last summer after 15 minutes of driving but only when the temp. outside is over 80 degrees or so. It stopped during the cold months but has resumed this summer. It is a low knocking sound and a) the vehicle must be moving, b) it has to have been moving for 15 minutes or so and c) it must be over 80 degrees outside. I can feel it under my feet and thru the steering wheel but mechanics say that they don't hear it and can't find it because they are getting into the vehicle after it has had a couple of minutes to cool down. Mechanics tell me that they have checked the universal joint and that it is fine. I need a brave mechanic to drive along side of me in another vehicle, going 45 miles per hour for 15 minutes and then they need to jump over into the driver's side and take over the wheel (like in the movies) so that maybe we can find what is making the noise. It makes this noise whether the vehicle is in 4wd or 2wd or the A/C is on or not.
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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I have a 95 Ranger 2.3 with a manual tranny. In the past I have had problems with this truck not starting do to a bad inertia switch and numerous fuel pumps. A couple of weeks ago I pulled the truck off of the driveway into the street and let it set there for a few hours. When I went to put it back on the driveway it would not start. I got it pushed on the side of the garage. I did my normal routine of doing a pressure check. I had no fuel pressure so I assumed that it was the fuel pump (as usual) so I dropped the tank and changed the pump.
I got it back together and it still wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure and the manifold still had 0. So I started my diagnostic. I have power from the fuse to the fuel pump relay. I then checked the wiring at the inertia switch and found that there is no voltage with the key on at the supply side of the inertia wiring. I verified continuity between power distribution block and the inertia switch. I put in a new fuel pump relay and it still has no fuel rail pressure and there still is no electric signal at the inertia switch. Where to go from here?
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I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking. This thing has 253k on it.....
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My 1995 ford ranger with a 3.0 will not start. It acted like the fuel pump was going out so I replaced it. I also replaced cmp sensor and the camshaft synchronizer due to old cmp sensor broke and messed up the synchronizer. My truck is getting fuel and spark but still will not start. Where do i go next?
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger, manual shift. It always starts when cold, but sometimes -- very sporadic -- it will not start after I've gone somewhere. This has happened maybe 8 times over the past 18 months or so. Always, after sitting a while, it starts right up as though nothing happened. Several months ago I left it with a mechanic for an entire week, but he could never get it to act up. Of course.
In browsing through these discussions, I've seen the "starter/clutch interlock switch" mentioned. Here is my question, though. Would the starter still crank if that was the problem? or does that switch stop the starter from engaging?
When mine acts up, the starter cranks, the engine turns over ... it just acts like it's not getting fuel. Is that a starter/clutch interlock switch issue? Or something else?
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I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.
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1995 ranger. 132k miles. I have been having an intermittent starting problem. I replaced the battery which was 3+ years old. I thought that cured the issue because the truck started without a problem then, the same problem occurred. I started the truck and drove about 10 miles. Parked it for about 2 hrs. Went out and tries to start it. The engine cranked, but would not start.
Tried a second time and would not start.
I turned on the lights and proved the battery was good.
Tried to start it and it turned over.
I took it to a shop and they could not fine the problem.
I asked if it was a possible problem with the solenoid, alternator,
They said if it was those the engine would not turn and you would just hear a click.
They drove it for a week and it happened to their technician but he said he did not have his equipment to check it.
He got it started after a few tries as I did and got it back to the shop. Ran a scan.
Four codes returned that really did not identify the issue - P0231, P1701, P0340, P1270. They cleared the codes and drove it again. They checked the codes. It showed code P0340. The shop says the code states to replace the cam position sensor and installing an updated DPFE sensor.
I have been driving it for about a week on and the problem has not resurfaced yet. A friend whom I work with does some car maintenance told me it is a dead spot on the starter and to replace it.
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My 1994 Ford Ranger, V6, 4 L, 4 wheel drive, 161k miles, standard(stick) has been lurching while accelerating, and going up an incline even without load. It seems to lurch more if the RPMs are under 3K. But now, its starting to lurch even at or a little above 3k RPMs I have replaced the fuel filter,cleaned the air filter, used Heat thinking it was water in the tank, changed my plugs and wires and it didn't fix the problem. Im curious If I cracked a plug while putting it in or that a plug isn't connected all the way. But if it's not that, what could be causing this issue. Im nervous that if not fixed, it will break something.
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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Installed a new clutch and slave today. Kept the same master cylinder.
The problem I am having is that the clutch pedal will not go to the floor, and therefore the truck won't start. The slave is moving back and forth roughly 3/8 inch, maybe more. I am pretty confident that there is no air in the system.
If I loosen the pressure plate a little, the clutch will go to the floor. But tighten it back up, and it again only goes down about 75%. This is a late '95 so it has the self adjusting clutch. I did get the correct kit for it, as well as slave. It's like the self adjusting part is too far adjusted and won't let my slave travel as far as needed.
In troubleshooting, I did notice that I failed to get the dowels in the flywheel aligned in the pressure plate. I am old school and not used to dowels in the flywheel! The dowels are not hitting anything and are not preventing the pressure plate from seating on the flywheel. But it is something I'm going to fix if I have to pull the trans again.
For reference, I replaced the clutch because the slave cylinder was hanging up and preventing the clutch from getting fully released. Aka clutch slipping.
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I have a 1994 Toyota Pickup DLX 3.0 V6 5spd. I love this truck to death since I inherited it from my grandfather.. however, I have a small problem. Whenever the truck sits for about 3 days without being driven; when I go to drive it the next morning, the clutch will go straight to the floor when I press it. Sometimes it'll even stick. After pumping it about 20 times (it's hydraulic) it'll be fine. It hasn't always done this. The clutch fluid level is fine.
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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