I've been noticing that my 1994 Ford Ranger 2.3L, 4 banger has a slight knocking sound. It is really faint compared to any other rod knock I have heard. An engine compression test shows mid 140's on all cylinders except one of them which is at 125. I'm guessing it isn't receiving enough oil. Can I prevent catastrophe by fixing this early on before a rebuild or replacement has to happen?
View 19 RepliesThis is my new Prius C's engine warming up in the morning. The engine shakes once when starting up and I seems to be able to detect a slight knocking sound.
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
View 6 RepliesI know all Hyundai's 1.8L Nu engines have that quiet ticking noise. But is there a slight knocking sound on the left side of the engine (around the belt area)? Could this be just the timing chain noise? It does this on idle but when on a constant speed/rpm, the engine is quiet.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2007 sonata 2.4L with 93k miles that has a knocking sounds coming from the bottom of the engine. It seems that it is a bad rod bearing and was caused by low oil levels. I did not know that the oil was that low (3 quarts low) It started about a week ago. I know I'm gonna have to put it on jack stands and drop the oil pan.
By the way, Here is a video I found and it sounds similar to my car. Here's the link : 2.4L Theta Engine Noise - YouTube
I'm just starting to break in a new 2010 Passat and I hear some slight "knocking" noises at low RPMs during acceleration. It's only got 500 miles on it, so I am assuming it's just a characteristic of these engines; however, I've never owned a VW before so I don't know what is normal. this sound is typical for VW 2.0s? I think I have the PZEV version if that makes a difference.
View 1 RepliesWhen my truck is slowing down my manual transmission makes a knocking sound, but does not make the sound when accelerating. What could be the problem?
View 2 Replies'94 Ranger 4x2. Recent new brakes front and rear, installed by a garage who was also doing my clutch a few months ago. Not long after brake job, slightly detectable 'thump thump thumping' sound during braking. At first I thought possible stuck caliper/warped front rotor, but vibration was not in the steering wheel, and as sound grew increasingly louder, seems to be coming from right rear brakes.
ABS light appeared once, but after adding a small amount of brake fluid to master cylinder, has not reappeared. No other brake related idiot lights, and truck brakes quickly and straight. Pedal could possibly be firmer, however.
Took my rig back to the shop, since brakes were supposedly "guaranteed for six months". Out of business, no forwarding address or phone number!
So I decided to bleed the rear brakes. Haynes manual says bleed RABS valve first, then proceed to rear brake bleeders. Found RABS on rail frame, dust cap still on bleeder, (cap was very dusty and difficult to pop off) looks like shop never removed it or bled it! Had to remove its electrical connector to access the 7/8" bleeder nut with a box wrench.When I tried to bleed it, NOTHING came out. Neither air nor brake fluid. Moved on to rear brake bleeders. Normal. Bled 1/2 pint from each, as I topped off the master cylinder. I have not yet removed either drum to inspect.
Long story short, does the RABS valve on a '94 Ranger rear wheel only ABS need to be plugged in to be able to be bled? Do I need to have the ignition 'ON' while doing so? (I thought only '95 and up needed the Ford factory code reader to bleed four wheel only ABS valve?) And can the thing fail without setting the ABS warning light, and allow the rear brakes to still (noisily) work ?
Since about 5000 km, I have had a knocking metal rattling sound happening when I accelerate up a hill or a slight incline. It has happened a few times on flat road as well just more prevalent on the uphill battles. Now I assumed it was jus something loose that was rattling since I installed a cold air intake and had installed hid lights(I thought the ballast was banging on something). I tried and tried to find the rattle but I had no success. I read up on here about other people suffering the same problem and that running higher octane gas would solve it well I tried 89 and it was still there just not as much and I recently started using 91 and its gone haven't heard it at all.
View 132 RepliesI recently replaced the intake manifold gaskets on my 94 silverado 5.7 due to a coolant leak from the heater hose quick disconnect. It broke off when i went to replace it and had to remove the intake to fix it properly. After everything was all back together and i started the engine, i heard a slight ticking noise that goes up and down with engine rpm. I can hear it more so from in the cab than i can under the hood. Not sure if its the injectors making this noise or what. I also replaced the distributor cap and rotor while i had the distributor out. I marked every wire and hose to make sure nothing would get mixed up when I reassembled it.
View 6 RepliesMy kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
View 12 RepliesThis morning I went to go to work, started to back out of the drive, and the transmission locked up. So I go to put it in first gear, let off the clutch, and the engine bogs down like its in 5th gear. I then decided I will just push it back in the drive, so I put it in neutral, let off the clutch, and its still in a gear while in neutral. Last night it drove fine before parking it, and then when waking up its broke. What could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 ford ranger 2.5 and a standard 5 speed. Its been knocking for a while now and recently its made a much lower tone knock, I am thinking I may have thrown a bearing. Also I am wondering what other engines I can use, besides the 2.5.....
View 3 RepliesIt's a 2006 hyundai sonata LX.
Now Is it anything I should worry about? Car has 72000 on it. Always used synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30.
This is on a completely cold start up, 30 degrees outside. Only makes the noise until car warms up. Anything I can do to prevent this? Or is it not something to worry about? Should I just let the car warm up a little before I drive it?
[URL]...............................
I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
New to owing a ford pickup. I bought a 2002 Ford F-150 lariat 4x4 as a project truck. I've always wanted a truck to mess around with, but once I got the truck home I noticed it had a knocking sound. It didn't sound like it came from the top of the engine so I checked the muffler first and found it had a 3" slit in it. I replaced it but the sound remains. I heard it could be lifters? Is that something I should mess with or not?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2014 Superduty with 41000 km on it. I was driving in a remote area yesterday about 53 km from pavement. I stopped for a break and had a very noticeable knocking sound that was more noticeable on the drivers side towards the back of the engine. I had no choice but to keep driving it. the truck ran perfectly fine for the 4 hour trip home(1 hour on gravel and 3 hours on highway) when I stopped a couple of times after that there was definitely no knocking sound an it is not there today, what this could have been? like I said the knocking was so noticeable that you couldn't miss it...
View 11 RepliesI had a toyota prius gen 3 last year where it had an engine knocking sound, where I tried every TSB and changed the spark plugs, spark plug cables, intake manifold, engine knots..... etc., nothing worked except the following video which solved the knocking completely with no return.
View 12 RepliesI have a knocking sound from my D4EB engine (2008 Santa Fe. 120,000 miles)
Problem has been any diagnosis of the cause because the mechanics cannot agree. One has said top end and another bottom end. If it is top end when I think the consensus would be to get the present engine rebuilt. However, if bottom end then, because of the increased cost, the better option might be to replace with a reconditioned engine.
I've got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 83k on it.
Last night I was driving and started to hear a repetitive knocking sound. Stopped to determine if it was only when moving but it continued in park.
Checked the oil and apparently there was very little of it.
Don't know how I screwed that up but the mechanic heard the engine for 1 second and said I need a full engine replacement.
So, yeah I am ticked off and need to take care of it.
The VIN qualifies for a replacement under the recall but I don't know how the dealership will feel about the present engine condition.
If that's not an option, where do I even begin to look for a replacement?