My '93 Ford Ranger died on the road three days ago. The motor simply stopped. Battery is good. the engine will crank but it will not engage. Had it towed to my Shade-tree mechanic he is puzzled. Says that trouble code 5931111111 indicates an air conditioning problem but that doesn't make any sense. The truck is 4 cylinder 2WD.
View 1 RepliesMy '93 Ford Ranger suddenly died while I was driving, no sputtering or bucking, it was just as though I had turned the key off. When i tried to restart, the engine would turn over but not engage. It's as though the engine is either getting no gas and/or spark. My shade-tree mechanic says he got a diagnostic code that was #539 followed by #1 seven times at two second intervals. he says he ran the test 6 times and got the same result every time. What this means?
View 10 RepliesWhen I turned the key to start my car, I got zero activity from it. No ticking, no lights, nothing. So I tried to do a push start, and the engine wouldn't engage. I took the key out, and suddenly my dome light popped on (though it was dim). I put my key back in and turned it, and dash lights looked normal and at full power, but as soon as I pressed the clutch down and tried to turn the key, everything went dead. I took the key out, put it back in, and turned it, but got nothing.
I pushed my truck up to the top of an incline, and turned the key. All the lights looked normal, so I thought I may be able to push start it. Key was in proper position, clutch was engaged, and gear shift was sitting in first. I got a decent speed, released the clutch... and everything went dead.
I can't decide if it's my starter or my ignition system, though I suppose it could be the wiring, or even something else.
1993 ranger, 3.0 V6 203,000 miles. As engine warms up coolant in blown into over flow and spills out. At that point system is low and truck runs hotter than norman, 3/4 way across gage. What would be causing overflow to overfill from engine. Could it be a bad rad. cap? Just replaced head gaskets at 200,000 miles. Truck runs good. No oil in water, no sign of visible leakes other than overflow tank overfilling and loosing coolant.
View 10 RepliesSometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start, the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad.... 1993 ford ranger .....
View 1 RepliesSometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
View 2 RepliesMy daughter has a 1993 Subaru Impreza with 5 speed manual transmission. I have been driving it because of problems getting it to go in 1st gear. Most of the time the car goes from a stop just fine, but whenever it is on any kind of uphill grade the car seems to be stuck like the brake is still engaged. I hear a "grinding noise" I think is coming from the right rear wheel. This happens only in 1st gear, then the car is fine after that, I tried starting from 2nd but the same thing happens. This car is front wheel drive.I think the brake may be sticking in the rear wheel. The car has a new clutch and I put in new brakes all the way around. Is there a way that I can temporarily disable the right rear brake (drums)? Maybe then I could isolate the problem.
View 5 RepliesI have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
View 9 RepliesMy 1993 Ford Ranger XLT w 170,000 miles has been having an issue with not starting. It cranks fine. At first (for the last year), the fuel pump didn't sound right or didn't come on at all; when normal, you hear it for three seconds or so after turning key on. I have replaced fuel pump/relay/filter. Now, in the last week, it also will not idle after initial start, and I have to rapidly pump the accelerator lest it dies again. This whole process can take ten minutes or more to get the stars in proper alignment. This morning, I had to give up and drive my other beater into town. In addition to the parts I mentioned, I also replaced the ignition switch thinking not correct voltage to pump. I finally traced wires and do indeed have 12 volts to the pump (under the bed, after the inertia switch and all harness plugs). It has a new windshield, new tires, cold old R-12 A/C, and it's paid for.
View 8 RepliesI have a 93 Ford Ranger I can not get to start. The battery is new, I have replaced the starter and the fuel pump but the truck still turns without starting. I thought maybe the Starter Rely might be the problem but I get spark from it when I do the screwdriver test. I am running out of money replacing all these parts without any success.
View 11 RepliesI drive a 1999 ford ranger and can't figure out why my 4x4 won't engage. I have vacuum all the way down to the hubs and when I turn the switch it sounds like the transfer switch is engaging but the 4x4 still doesn't engage. What do you all think could be the issue? I thought about just putting a set of the manual locking hubs on it and just be done with it.
View 1 Replies97 automatic 4x4 SXT 4.0L. 4Hi will engage, but when I shift to neutral, press foot on brake, and shift to 4lo, nothing happens. No light, no sound. Occasionally it will make a sound, and even more rarely will light up, but it does not feel like 4Lo is engaged even when indication says it is. I pulled the shift motor and replaced, as well as verified that the transfer case could be shifted to 4 hi and lo by using an adjustable wrench. I have not put truck on stands yet, but I'm pretty sure 4 hi is truly engaging. I did attempt to engage with shift motor connected electrically but not mechanically, and it shifted. What is keeping 4 Lo from shifting? If it's a vacuum issue, wouldn't 4 hi not shift? I did check the vacuum lines and the vacuum reservoir and they seemed to be okay.
View 3 RepliesI have a 93 Ford ranger that will not start. It was cranking fine. It would take 2 or 3 tries when it was cold but once warmed up it ran fine and would crank right back up until it was cold again. The last 3 or 4 times I drove the truck it fired right up on the 1st try. Then the last time I drove it, it cranked right up and I drove it between 5 and 10 miles. It sat for about an hour and when I tried to crank it, it wouldn't start. At first it sounded like it wanted to but after a few seconds all it would do is turn over.
After about a week of sitting I was able to crank it up again. It fired right up. I let it run for 15 minutes or so turning it off and re-cranking it. About 4 or 5 times. Then the last time I cut it off and tried to crank it back up it wouldn't start again. I replaced the pickup coil in the distributor, cleaned off the rotor button and leads on the distributor cap (they didn't look bad and were working fine before), I checked to see if I was getting spark but Im not getting it from the spark plug wires or directly from the coil wire.
I checked with a test light to see if I was getting power to the coil and distributor from the wiring harnesses. With the key on power is going into both but I'm not getting any arch when I test directly from the coil wire or the spark plug wires. Ive also switched out the relays and tested the coil and starter solenoid on another vehicle and they work fine. My next step I'm thinking about replacing the computer but don't want to spend on a part a can't return if thats not the problem.
I am starting to work on my 93 ranger when funds are there. But my question is do i need a Cat. for PA state emissions? I have heard you do but then I hear you don't. I have also heard a few things on the fuel millage and power.... Looking for some info on this because I am not trying to cut it off and have to go back and fix it again... I want to do it once and be done with that part!
View 3 RepliesToday on my way to work my 1993 ford ranger would shift fine but would refuse to go over 35mph and shook pretty bad. I don't know where to start...
View 6 RepliesNot only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
View 3 Replies1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 5 speed transmission. I am a little confused I can not get the transmission to engage the clutch, I replaced the clutch 3 weeks ago, now I have no pressure in the pedal, I have bleed the system 5 attempts with clean solid flow of fluid. What else can I do to fix this or trouble shoot from here?
View 6 Replies1993 lebaron GTC... I just got the oil change, and the tec slip and the wrench touch the starter, positive and negative ends. I have power every where but no crank to start. I had a new backup starter and replace it figure that it was shot but after getting it tested its fine. I can hear the starter but i get no crank. Where do i look?
View 9 Replies1993 ford ranger 4 CLY 2 WD getting spark gas to injectors will only start when fluid is sprayed in air intake. have replaced fuel pu,p. fuel filter air intake regulator. ran okay till ran out of gas.
View 2 RepliesI have a ranger as said in title. No a/c. I noticed my belt was cracked very badly so I bought a new one. Dayco made for Ford and Mazda 3.0L V6. Looked the same length as the old one so I put it on and all was good. Then about 2 days later it started squeaking very loudly, not all the time, just 1500 rpm and higher. The hotter the motor got (not overheating just to running temp) the higher rpm it took for it to squeak. I put a stethoscope on all the pulleys/pumps and alt. It sounded the strongest on the idler.
So I replaced the idler and bearing (which the bearing was bad, but not the source of sound) it wasn't that. So I thought I'd give the belt a couple days, maybe it was too tight causing a bearing to get too tight and squeak. And the more I drove it the louder it got with less rpm needed to make it squeak. So I tried belt dressing, and still no fix. So today I put the old belt back on to see if that was the issue. Sure enough, it started up and squeaked just the same, but I tried the belt dressing on the old belt and it went silent, even at 3000 rpm. So I assume from this the new belt was a smidge too big. Right?
How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
View 3 Replies