My emergency brake works fine when I am parked nose down; it prevents my truck from rolling forward. When I'm parked nose up, the e brake doesn't stop the truck from rolling backwards. 2.3L 1993 ford ranger manual trans.
View 3 RepliesOur 1993 Saturn SL1 wouldn't start this morning (this never happens). After we turned the car off, it made this "dugga, dugga, dugga" noise that seems to come from below the emergency brake. Even though the car has been off, the noise has been happening intermittently since this morning. We just replaced the battery a month ago.
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2007 Prius 2 months ago and I noticed that when I stop at a stop light and engage the parking/emergency brake while keeping it in Drive gear the car creeps forward. I have more experience with manual cars where when you pull the emergency brake it locks the car and prevents it from rolling forward or back despite the car being still in gear, so I'm curious to know whether this is a normal thing with a Prius and pushing the P button in addition to the emergency brake at a stop light with a slight incline is necessary. I find that this two step process of disengaging the E break and putting the car back in Drive makes you slow to take off. But what I want to know if this normal with a Prius?
View 14 RepliesI have a 97 Ranger 4x4, 4.0L, A4LD, 68k mi. with P0171 and P0174 codes, lean fuel mixture banks 1 and 2. The truck will rev up and down from 500-1000 RPM when Im rolling in Drive. When I accelerate, its fine, but when I let off the gas and roll it starts revving again causing the truck to shake. I replaced plugs and wires before the codes (1-2 months ago). After the codes came I replaced the fuel filler neck (not because of the codes), cleaned the air filter, cleaned MAF, changed fuel filter, and checked fuel pressure which was at 29psi so I replaced the fuel pump. Is there any common causes for this? Cures?
View 14 Replies1994 Ranger XLT 4.0 5spd 4WD 168,000 miles
the emergency brake will hold vehicle but pedal won't stay down. figured it would do the normal "ratchet" feel and sound.
also, i did a really dumb thing with 4wd. i will try to make a long story short. a few months ago when we had that snow storm and then another shortly after, i decided to lock my hubs but DID NOT engage the 4wd. my top speed was 55 in the weather going to work. i came home one night for a brief moment, shut truck off and went inside. i came right back out to go to my mom's house (not a focal point in story but she lives only three blocks away)
when i started my truck i noticed the 4wd light was on (4H, not "low range") could NOT get light to go out and 4wd does not work, engage or "disengage". (i know it's not engaged by the little bit of a test wheel slip on snow packed street)
not sure what to do. was told to check vacuum hoses but it's an electronic shift. what should my next plan of action be?
I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start, the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad.... 1993 ford ranger .....
View 1 RepliesHave a 99 Ranger XLT, 4 cyl, manual transmission with 191K miles. Was running good as ever last night but went to start it this morning and throttle's stuck open, causing truck to move forward when in 1st gear. Even with clutch in, near impossible to get vehicle in or out of gear. Managed to get it into reverse, but truck was having none of it. What is the cause or causes of my trouble? Or how much the repairs might cost? I'm on the road so no chance of doing this myself.
View 2 RepliesWhat should the idle be at for a 2004 f150 fx4. When I first start the stuck it jumps to about 1200 or so and then after a few seconds settles at about 500 and stays there at all stops. It seems to be smooth but when I let go of the brake, the truck doesn't really want to move forward. It is a crew cab so I know there is some weight there. If anything is wrong, what are some possible fixes.
View 3 Replies1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
View 2 RepliesMy left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
View 8 RepliesI have a 93 Ranger xlt and after checking wheel cylinders and calipers first I have found a leak that is coming from the brake line or maybe the RABS module. The leak is up along the inside of the frame and I can't get in there because of the gas tank. Has to change line or RABS in that area and am I correct in thinking the gas tank has to come out to do anything in there.
Also, in the manual it says to plug the line as soon as you remove it(at wheel cylinders etc) so the fluid does not leak out of the RABS because it can't be bled without an expensive piece of equipment. I am pretty sure it probably emptied due to the leak location.
Before I got my GX someone posted they had to press harder on the brake to keep the vehicle from moving forward. My truck idles at 550 rpm and the vehicle will barely move forward even with NO brake. Just resting my foot on the brake will hold it easily.
View 6 RepliesI just purchased an Automatic 2009 Camry LE with 64k 2weeks ago, and noticed that twice it felt like it was losing power on an incline so I bought the fuel system cleaner to see if that worked (seaform). Tonight I go to park it on a street with a slight incline. As I shift to reverse to line the car up, it rolled forward. It shocked me bc there was a parked car right in front of me. I tried putting it in Drive/Park etc then back in Reverse it still rolled forward. I put my foot on the brake and gas at the same time to try to reverse but not wanting to give it too much gas bc I was scared it might fly forwards into the car in front of me (still rolled forward). Finally I was so close to the car in front of me I gave it a try and it still rolled and bumped the truck in front of me but with enough gas it went into reverse.
View 6 Replies2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
View 9 RepliesMy '06 3.8 Azera limited is making noises when the steering is turned to the extreme and slowly rolling forward (EG. parking). Happens in both directions, I've been told it might be the CV joint, what it could be before I run over to the dealer?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 Prius basic model bought second hand. There are two issues since I have bought the car; first it will roll back or forward when the brake applied, this happens on any uphill or downhill. I brought the car to Toyota service centre, they did a brake test, the test passed. but this doesn't resolve this issue. It just very weird. during driving, all brake works ok, but parking the car, if not in even service, it starts to roll.
Second, recently I hear there's a crack sound when apply the brake during low speed, especially during the stop/start traffic, and I notice mostly happens when the electrical motor in running. So when brake, the crack, like the spark comes from somewhere like battery. While brake to slow down from high speed, seems no sound. So I suspect it was from the battery or electric motor.
A friend of mine at work has a 93 4wd explorer. A4ld transmission. Reverse quit working, and no matter what gear you put it in, reverse, neutral, or park, it will stay in drive. Park holds itself, but if you give it gas, it tries to pull. He says when it's in reverse, it's almost like it's stuck in reverse and forward, it wants to rock. He pulled the pan, no metal shavings, and pulled the valve body. He said the screws holding the valve body were finger tight. The gasket underneath had a small tear in it, he doesn't know if he did this pulling it out or not. He replaced those gaskets and retorqued the valve body. When he put it in reverse and topped off fluid, reverse worked. He put it in drive and it worked, but when he put it back in reverse, it stayed in drive and is staying in drive in all gear selections again. He bought this explorer new, and the transmission had never been into before.
View 3 RepliesI am doing an sas on my 93 f150 short bed. my issue is that I've made coil spacers out of 1/2" thick by 3" tall by 4" in dia.... as you can see strength is not an issue here. i bought 6" lift coils for a 93' then decided to just say f it and throw a d44 straight axle under it. the springs on a 78' d44 are the same dia. top to bottom. 93' springs get smaller at the bottom so i made this spacer for two reasons.... 1 to have smaller seat for the bottom of the coil.. and 2 so i could make up the spring length difference between the two springs. The spacers are leaning forward due to the 7 degree c bushings on the radius arms.
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my 2002 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab's passenger window. It seems like it has a loose connection, but I am not sure what the exact problem is. When I try to move the passenger window from the driver side control panel, nothing happens. The driver side window works fine. On the passenger side control panel, I can hear the motor trying to move the window when I try to put it up (the window is already up).
When I try to put it down, I hear nothing unless I push the button repeatedly - anywhere from 3 to 20 times. When the window is partially down, moving up always works, but I have to keep trying to push the button to make it go down. I have tried pushing down on the window while I press the down button and spraying white lithium grease in the window tracks while the window was down, as well as pulling part of the seal away from the window while I tried to make it go down.