Ford - Mustang :: 2011 - Knocking Noise On Cold Starts
Apr 15, 2015
I have a 2011 Mustang base with the V-6 engine and 6 speed transmission. It is my summer car, getting fewer than 3,000 miles on it per year. I take very good care of it. My question is what is the mechanical knocking noise I am hearing on cold starts? It continues for about 5 minutes until the engine is fully warm, then stops. The noise comes from the valve cover area. It clearly is a noise that cycles with the movement of internal parts. Is it normal or could be something serious. The car only has 10,000 miles on it (it was sold in 2010 as a 2011 model, so it is 5 years old now).
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I have a 95 Ford mustang GT. When it is cold outside (Below 40 ish) it starts for about 1 second, dies abd the second time starts fine. has check engine light for lean exhaust. vacume pressure fine and been using injector cleaner but no improvement. replaced spark plug/ wires pcv valve.
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I noticed something strange the other day that my 89 GT can be started without the key ! Everything works as it should but you do not have to put the key in the ignition lock switch. I did have the ignition switch replaced many years ago when Ford had the recall due to a possible fire.. I believe the switch that was replaced is located down under the base of the steering column and activated with a rod from the column key lock.. Is it hard to replace this column lock switch ?
I would rather do it myself instead of paying a locksmith to do it..I do have an anti-start security system on it and when you enable it it locks out the ignition. To start it you have to enter a certain 5 number code for it to crank. I had this car since new and only 117k on the clock and runs like new. Where can I obtain a replacement "key lock assembly " ? This is the original key lock on the column..Just worn out I guess . Only thing I replaced on this car was a new clutch due to a bad throw out bearing making noise at 80k and a water pump and serpentine belt at 90k and a noisy fuel pump. Still has the original prone to failure ignition control module.
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5.4. So I have a 2004 F-150 that just passed 80,000 miles and a month ago it started making a very loud noise on startup, but only cold startup, meaning if I haven't used the truck in about three hours. Now I went on youtube to research and found a video of a truck making the exact same noise! Here is the link:
2004 f150 cold start knocking noise - YouTube ....
Need to verify what this is??? Some people are saying cam phasers and some are saying I'll need a brand new engine!
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When the a/c fan is on any setting other than the highest setting the air comes out cold. When the fan is set to the highest setting, it only comes out warm. This happens regardless of a/c or max a/c setting, regardless of fresh or recirculated air, and regardless of car speed. (2005 Mustang GT)
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So roughly 2 months ago my ac wasnt blowing cold anymore and it was the evaporator, so i got a new one put in and recharged and it blows 50 degrees or colder now and it still blew that cold today. But today i heard a noise coming from the engine, so i inspected it and saw the compressor was turning on and off which it was doing right before i got it fixed 2 months ago, so I know its not the compressor but i know that's probably gonna go soon to. now its getting to winter so I don't need the ac.
Everything else is working perfect never had any problems with the car other then the ac, it does get used a lot cause but it never gets pushed passed level 2 out of 4. it has 90k on it and i was wondering if this is a major repair to just let it go and sell it for a reasonable price and pick up another car? or just fix it and hope another problem does not arise in 2 months. Like i said ive never had any problems with it before other then the ac. it still runs great and i can still floor it and she responds almost like new.
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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I got a 2002 mustang v6 and I hadn't flushed the coolant since 5 years ago so I decided to take off the radiator cap off too check the status of the coolant. As I took the cap off, coolant started to slowly spill out of it so I quickly put the cap right on. What causing this? My car was already cooled down and it can't be a head gasket problem cause I don't see white smoke. And I don't see any leaks from hoses and water pump . I park my car outside could it be the sun heating it up and making the coolant flowing out when I take the cap off? What causing this?
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I have a 2011 Sonata. Recently, I have heard a faint knocking sound when I'm in reverse. It doesn't do it all the time. When I took it into the dealer, it would not make the sound while there. What causes that sound?
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My 2009 Sonata 2.4l Sonata has been making a loud knocking noise when it is cold, but it will fade to almost nothing after it warms up. I tried to make a sound clip of the noise, but it was so distorted that I could not even make out the noise on the video.
For some strange reason the noise matches the skipping problem I have been complaining about since the beginning. Yea it's still there. It sounds like it is in the valve system, not the lower end. It leads me to believe it's coming from the valve clearance/ camshaft area.
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I drive a '11 Sonata GLS and experience the rattling noise/clanking when weight shifts to the front-right of the car or when i go over a dip, and the noise is coming from the passenger side of the vehicle. I THINK it is the glove box issue that has been mentioned before and I am going to purchase some felt tape and apply this method [URL] .... that was posted here. Did this correct the issue?
And also when i reverse the car (specifically when I turn the wheel to the right) I get a knocking noise, which seems to also be coming from the front-right (or back) I can't tell. Can this be an axle? I'm at 79k mileage so the dealership wants $125 to diagnose the problem and that amount will go towards anything needing repair. Should I take the car to another shop instead?
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 127k miles on it and I'm trying to diagnose a problem, possibly with transmission.
Since I bought the car at 115k miles I started hearing a noise from engine zone, which appears quite rarely. Noise resembles valve knocking, appears mostly at traffic lights and colder weather (evenings). I was trying to catch the sound by recording it while using emergency brake at D pos. but the sound disappeared right after releasing brake pedal.
Describing in a different way it sounds like a propeller touching something with its blades. The sound also appears at 1900rpm on any gear (mostly when slightly releasing gas pedal around 2k rpm).
While trying to understand/fix the issue I used:
- liqui moly valve cleaner and engine flush
- techtron injection cleaner
- replaced spark plugs
These operations had almost 0 effect on car behavior. The symptoms boil down to a torque converter. Transmission shifts fine, I was going to try transmission fluid change ( a full change by dealer), however it may do more harm, so I'm not sure yet.
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I drive a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS and it has about 84,000 miles on it. Sometimes in the morning the car will not start and I have to start it in reverse... Often times the check engine light will come on and stay on and other times it will go out. Sometimes when I am putting the car in reverse it stalls out... Then there is this horrible loose knocking noise that I think it coming from the steering wheel... Is this car about to put me down?
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I have santafe 3.5 2012 4WD , it's 51K on odometer, the problem when cold startup , Noise and small vibrate form front side , its look like from gears
When put to reverse (R) sound is louder and strong vibration from front side, all this problem gone when drive about 15 minutes.
I have visit 3 local shop they check the engine, gear box, everything normal, no check indicator appears.
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01 V-6 2.8 30V 90000 mi, now hear cam chain noise rattle for appx one second on cold starts only didnt do it before the timing belt was just replaced,why is it doing it now
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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I'm the second owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L with about 79,000 miles on it. I've had it for about 6 months and I go to get into my car this morning, and my car wouldn't start.
It starts to start but then cuts out and does a humming noise. I don't know if that counts as "turning over" because its a push start, but there were no clicking noises like it was trying to catch, just the hum. It also started making this same humming noise when I turn the car "on" without turning on the engine.
Everything works, my stereo, ac, headlights, taillights. I even tried jumping it and that did not work. We checked the fuses and they all look ok too.
I also put the key in the manual key hole in the center console while doing all this just to make sure.
Although it looks like the car is on, after I try to start it, the lights on the dash go out and my meters all turn on just as if the car is on, but the engine will not start. I can even shift the gears from parked to drive, neutral, etc and power steering works.
Finally after about an hour of messing with it, I gave up and tried to shut the car power off, and it wouldn't turn off! I went back n forth between the two on modes for a good 5-7 minutes before it FINALLY turned completely off and I was able to lock up and leave it...
*I have also had issues before where one or two dome lights randomly turn on when i unlock the car (with them set to OFF at all times). Maybe this is a minor electrical issue that turned into a bigger problem from ignoring it?
**I DO have an aftermarket stereo and alarm installed FYI.
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I got my Sonata at 27k, its now at 76k and the cars been great although I had the following issues.
I've noticed sometimes when I startup and shift into reverse the car jerks a bit and its not a smooth transition. However other times the car is very fluid in switching gears. Should I take it in to have a look at it?
Also when I am turning onto a unleveled road (usually a higher road), I notice a creaking/knocking noise coming from the front of the car, also notice it when I reverse into a parking space sometimes.
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I have a 2000 honda civic with 120,000 miles on it. recently, on cold starts (when i haven't turned the engine for a day) i've noticed a rapid vibrating or rattling noise about 30 seconds or so after i've turned the ignition. this noise lasts for maybe 15 to 20 seconds then it goes away, presumably as the engine has warmed a little.
I do drive a lot, and during the day even after the car has not been running for a few hours this noise doesn't occur. Only happens on the cold starts. I hope it's nothing major. I've attached a video with the sound. about 30 seconds into the video you will hear the noise kick in. (if the video doesn't show below here is the youtube link: [URL] ....
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