Ford - Mustang :: 2006 V6 - AC Blowing Cool Air But Not Cold
Jul 18, 2013
AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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So roughly 2 months ago my ac wasnt blowing cold anymore and it was the evaporator, so i got a new one put in and recharged and it blows 50 degrees or colder now and it still blew that cold today. But today i heard a noise coming from the engine, so i inspected it and saw the compressor was turning on and off which it was doing right before i got it fixed 2 months ago, so I know its not the compressor but i know that's probably gonna go soon to. now its getting to winter so I don't need the ac.
Everything else is working perfect never had any problems with the car other then the ac, it does get used a lot cause but it never gets pushed passed level 2 out of 4. it has 90k on it and i was wondering if this is a major repair to just let it go and sell it for a reasonable price and pick up another car? or just fix it and hope another problem does not arise in 2 months. Like i said ive never had any problems with it before other then the ac. it still runs great and i can still floor it and she responds almost like new.
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I took my truck to a friends express lube to have some freon added to it. My truck has been blowing cool air, not cold. So i thought it might be low on freon considering its a 2000 f-150 w/ 145,000 miles. He took a pressure gauge to it and said it is over charged, the pressure was high.
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Two weeks ago A/C was slow to cool down on and blowing warm air for several minutes; works fine since then. One week ago, check engine light came on. At the dealership now, they say it the check engine light is for the clutch heater and this would also relate to problem with a/c not cooling properly. Waiting to hear what repairs will cost. Is this OK to continue driving? What exactly is going on? Does this part need to be replaced? Should we just tape over the icon on the instrument panel to avoid looking at the pesky light?
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2004 Foed Freestar, the A/C has started blowing less than cool air in the past sveveral days. I'm assuming its low on refrg. but how does one check by visual inspection? If it is low will a simple re-charge kit w/guage and super dupper leak sealant do the trick? I saw a kit at Advance Autoparts for manufactured by Interdynamics. It had a guage w/trigger release for can content and three 12oz. cans of R134a. Will this kind of kit work?
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As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
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We are having an issue with the front air not blowing cool all the time. Sometimes if we hit a bump or something its like something is jogged and it blows colder but the rear air always blows cold. Also the front air blows colder with the rear air on. I put gauges on it and I have the right amount of refrigerant in it. What I can do.
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In my 08 Expedition I notice the a/c compressor cycles on for 18-25 sec. then off for about the same. This is with an ambient temp of about 75f. A/C seems to be blowing cool air-never was really cold since new. The idle drops/surges a bit when the a/c kicks on also-which is what grabbed my attention. Is this a normal or is it short cycling?
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03 F350 7.3PSD... A/C blows cool on max only but does not blow real hard on high.
Blower motor is loud like it is blowing but just not coming out of vents. On reg A/C blows hot, actually blows hot on all other settings.
A/C compressor is on but blows hot through vents. I am thinking blend door and or something else. Thing is I am not sure what or where to look and how do I check?
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I have a 1998 f150 4.6 that has a problem with the heating system. It's blowing out a little warm, but "far" from what it should be. ( on a scale from 1-10, I'd rate it about a 3) I am puzzled because I flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, and there a no signs of heater core leaks inside,hose leaks on firewall, or radiator/water smell present. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I did notice the top radiator hose was hot, but not the bottom. I don't know what else to look for.
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I have a 95 Ford mustang GT. When it is cold outside (Below 40 ish) it starts for about 1 second, dies abd the second time starts fine. has check engine light for lean exhaust. vacume pressure fine and been using injector cleaner but no improvement. replaced spark plug/ wires pcv valve.
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When the a/c fan is on any setting other than the highest setting the air comes out cold. When the fan is set to the highest setting, it only comes out warm. This happens regardless of a/c or max a/c setting, regardless of fresh or recirculated air, and regardless of car speed. (2005 Mustang GT)
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I have a 2000 Suburban which is only blowing hot air from the vents. If I turn the temp selector to cold it still blows hot air. Even when I press the button for AC it still only produces hot air.
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My air conditioning just stopped blowing cool air. While the blower still operates properly, the air is coolest (but not nearly cool enough or normal) at the extreme right passenger vent, then is progressively warmer toward the driver's side, with the warmest vent being the extreme left at the driver's side next to door. I'm inept at mechanics in general, and especially with autos, which is why I bought the BMW (which tells you when it needs service) to begin with. The only thought I had was that I recently had the car detailed and the engine washed at the BMW dealership. Could something have come loose when power washed under the hood? I'm hesitant to take it back since my last experience was not a good one. I have of course checked all the settings.
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
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Had a question about the rear a/c cooling on my 2009 GX 470 - the last few days have been nice enough to warrant using the A/C. I noticed though, that the 4 rear vents seem to not be producing any cool air - kind of a problem when I have an overheated Boxer dog that would love some cool A/C. Any thoughts? I have the rear A/C on, all the way to the - or minus sign and the fan speed to Auto.
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All of a sudden the AC in my 2007 Passat 2.0 stopped blowing cold air. It worked great yesterday. I'm worried that it might be the compressor because I don't have the 1000+ dollars to have it replaced. I bought the car in 2009 but I'm almost sure it is out of warranty because I've put more than 50,000 miles on it. I read some posts that the AC might need to simply be recharged ?????
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New owner for the passat 2003 gls passat 1.8T. I turned on the AC and its not blowing cool air. Looking for DIY to fix my AC problem.
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This is on a 06 GTI. Yesterday my AC just stopped blowing cold. I checked the fuses did not find any that were bad. Belts are new, compressor is spinning, not sure if the clutch is engaging, can't hear anything clicking etc. Upon further investigation it is doing some weird stuff. Fan speed works fine, blows air but no cold air however if I try and get hot air (the heater) there is no change in air temp. If I turn the "ECON" button on and off no change. If I turn on the front defrost then I get Hot air but that is the only way I can get any temp change hot or cold, nothing will make it blow cold just to clarify. Last odd thing is if I crank the heat up to max I get no airflow from anywhere!? What is going on?
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I have a 2011 Mustang base with the V-6 engine and 6 speed transmission. It is my summer car, getting fewer than 3,000 miles on it per year. I take very good care of it. My question is what is the mechanical knocking noise I am hearing on cold starts? It continues for about 5 minutes until the engine is fully warm, then stops. The noise comes from the valve cover area. It clearly is a noise that cycles with the movement of internal parts. Is it normal or could be something serious. The car only has 10,000 miles on it (it was sold in 2010 as a 2011 model, so it is 5 years old now).
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