My 2005 Mustang w/ 4.6L is giving a P0456 code and also won't let me fill it with gas completely. I think I've narrowed it down to the canister vent or purge valve. Looking for narrowing down which would cause the gas fill issue.
View 7 RepliesSo of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
I got gas last week and then my SES light came on. I took it to my local auto parts store and used the code reader. The code that it produced was P0456. The guys at the store wasn't useful because he said it could be as simple as my gas cap needs replacing or a much bigger problem. Should I take it to the dealer or is it something I can fix myself?
View 1 Replies1997 Ford Mustang 4.6L EFI engine with 67K miles. The engine is actually now in a Factory Five Roadster. It sat on a stand for 5 years but runs well now with the exception of the code. I keep getting a code P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire) and I've checked the plug - the code seems accurate; it is misfiring.
Things I've tried:
1)swapped plugs,
2)this is a dual coil engine so I've swapped coils,
3)the #4 plug is the longest sparkplug wire so I've gotten high-performance wires,
4)heavily grounded the AL head,
5)put dielectric grease on the plug,
Still, ONLY cylinder 4 gives the misfire.
Check engine and VSC lights came on wife's car, took to dealer, they hooked up computer and now stating that the Evap system has a leak. They want to replace the Charcoal Canister and they are quoting $900.00.
View 5 RepliesRecently my 2005 scion tc CEL light came on and I diagnosed p0456. At the same time when I turn the car on in the morning it idles at 2k RPM for about 3 minutes and then the idle goes down to around 900. If I park and return to the car within 2 hours the idle stays down but if I wait it goes back to 2k and I have to wait a few minutes for it to come down. My question is whether this is related to p0456. What could be wrong and how do I fix it?
View 2 RepliesSo my car's emission systems light came on last Saturday and after work today I took it to the local Auto Zone to have an onboard diagnostic done to see what the code was, as some friends had recommended. I have a 2004 Ford Taurus with about 146,000 miles on it. It came back as only one code, P0456, which according to the clerk meant one of four things.
1.) Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap
2.) EVAP Canister Broke, hose cracked or not connected
3.) Purge or vent solenoid defective
4.) Vacuum leak at engine
I asked him if there was anyway to eliminate a few of these, but he wasn't sure and said I would have to take it to a dealer or a repair shop (which I expected). I was wondering any tips or tricks so I can eliminate a couple of these, and also if this is a five alarm fire I should be panicking about. I did call my Dad and he did not seem overly concerned about it. Plus my car is still running fine and the light has remained steady and not flashing. My friend at work suggested I put a piece of black electrical tape over it and ignore it, but I want to be sure it passes inspection in September.
2006 Toyota Avalon 72000 miles
Plugs and coil have been switched between Banks 1,3,5 with 2,4,6 code P0355 shows the same cylinder 5 after the switch. What's the difference between a PCM and ECU and which one do I have.
I have a 2005 Prius with almost 244,000 mile and about a week and a half ago the check engine light came on. I went to an Advanced Auto and had them read the code for me, which came back with a P0505 error code. I have read several things on web that this code is a Idle Air Controller related.
I also have read that this could be to a loose or bad PCV valve, an air leak in the vacuum lines, throttle motor shaft might be binding, or a failed engine ECM.
The car runs and idle just fine, no stalling or a rough idling. The only problem that is obvious is that when the car is warm and I come to a stop or put in park, the motor will not shut off.
Which one of these would cause this to happen? Or could this be due to a MAF sensor that needs cleaned or replaced?
Just picked up a 2005 with 146k and full Toyota service history, although seems a steering recall was not done. Will run it to the dealer today to check. I need to decide a.s.a.p. if I am keeping the car or not (I know the seller, he will take it back)
Anyway to cut a long story short, two questions.
1) Car had P3190 and P0420 when I got it. Seller reset, drove home and within 5 minutes on the road the CEL was back on. Checked the codes at home and see only a P0420. Much to worry about? Seems this might be big (Cat) or small (O2). Car getting great mileage - 60mpg at 60mph and it seems to be running great. Should I worry or forget about it? Note I am in Florida with no inspections.
My wife drives a 2004 2WD Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC motor. We have had a problem now for over a year and a half of it randomly dying. There is not telling when the engine might die besides the fact that it happens when you let off the accelerator to brake or make a turn. It only happens at slow speeds. At a stop light or stop sign usually. The car will always start right back up. It has been to a couple of Ford dealerships and they haven't been able to diagnose the problem. The check engine light is on and it is giving the code p0456. This code definition is an EVAP small leak detected. Probable causes for the code are:
1. Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap.
2. EVAP Canister broke, hose cracked or not connected.
3. Purge or vent solenoid defective.
4. Vacuum leak at engine.
I don't think it's the fuel cap that would be making the car die. I used carburetor cleaner (I know its not the safest ) and sprayed on the vacuum lines that I could find to try and diagnose a vacuum line leak but nothing seemed to effect the engine. Do one of the other probable causes from p0456 could be causing the dying or could it be something else???
So I bought a used 2005 Prius back in August it had 88,000 miles on it and was out of warranty. But I had a full inspection on it and the car was in great shape. Well, after a few months of driving, I got the P0420 error. I took it into my mechanic who cleared the code and told me to call him if it came back on. It came back on, then I cleared it myself, and it came back on again. So it was confirmed that I had a bad catalytic converter.
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My 2005 died in the middle of the road a few days go. Was just rolling along fine then suddenly out of a stop light, the car stalled and would no longer go back into P, D, or R while the battery still seemed to be working. So had it towed to the dealership to be checked.
View 5 RepliesI just wanted to post this due to the problem I was having with this code. I recently replaced a broken timing belt on my 2005 pt cruiser (non-turbo). Everything went back together, minus the hours trying to get the timing marks lined up by myself. After getting the engine buttoned up, the car would crank and idle, but only after 2000 rpm and the engine code P0016 would show up. I went back into the engine, reset the timing belt, and cranked it before putting everything back together. Worked fine, so buttoned it back up and took it for a test drive.
Bam, same engine code pops up again, only this time the car acted like it wanted to go into limp mode for half a second after driving for a few miles when I was turning around to come back to the house. It straightened up and drove fine. I could drive the car fine even after that, made a few test drives into town. The car would kind of fight limp mode after first cranking the car and accelerating, but then straighten up.
After a couple of months of research and talking to a friend who is a pretty good mechanic, I decided this was an electrical problem. I checked, and sure enough, after looking at the wiring at the cam shaft sensor connector, it was frayed. I spliced it and still had some issues with the code. I had just put a new sensor on it when the belt broke thinking it might be the sensor, so I put the old sensor back on it and now it runs fine, no more light. So, after months of thinking the timing or tone rings might be off, it was just a wiring/sensor issue.
My Jeep recently came up with a CEL after pumping gas sometime last week. It happened about an hour after so I did some research and they said one solution could be that my gas cap may be lose or needs replacement. I then removed and made sure the cap was secured properly. After about two days the CEL stopped showing up. I just took my Jeep to an AutoZone and was told that the reader was still detecting the issue.
View 9 RepliesMy CEL came on the other day, so I plugged in my scanner. It came up with P0456, saying "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak)."
I double checked the gas cap, and it was on correctly. I saw on an OBD code website that the repair urgency is low, but I'm not comfortable with a leak in my fuel system, no matter where it is.
2005 F350 crew cab with 6.0 currently cranks but no start with a P2291 error code. Using scanguage 2 it shows icp 0, IPR 67.7, FICM 47.5 while cranking. Disconnected ICP and still no start. removed icp and hooked up air and I do not hear/see any signs of air leaking. When I disconnect the air it then whooshes out. About 2 months ago got a #1 cylinder contribution error code and changed out that injector and it has ran fine up until this issue.
Can this be a IPR? I am leading towards the HPOP, but as it costs a pretty penny would really love to make sure I tried every other avenue.
I have 197K on it, and 2 years ago did a EGR cooler delete. In May this year replaced the oil cooler, and then in August changed out the #1 fuel injector.
Oil cooler screen was broken. Cleaned the entire reservoir out. Could this just be a clogged IPR? or seeing the change while cranking an indication that it is working?
I have a CEL on my 2007 Avalon so I decided to take it to Autozone to get a scan. Error code P0015 was returned. This code has to do with B Camshaft Position, Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1). I've done a little research and I've read that this could possibly from a dirty screen on the Oil Control Valve, the OCV itself, or the Cam Position Sensor. Before replacing parts, what I would like to do first is to check/clean the screen on the OCV. Secondly, I would like to swap the Cam Position Sensor to a different bank and see if the other bank throws an error. If the other bank throws an error, then I know the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. With this said, I am having trouble locating the OCV and CPS. Where the valve and sensor is located. A diagram would be useful.
View 14 RepliesI have a check engine light come on in my 07 Avalon and had the car scanned. It was throwing error code P0031. I'm gonna go ahead and replace this O2 sensor, however, I'm having a hard time finding the correct part# for this sensor.
View 1 RepliesI just recently had my cel come on and i scanned it when i got to work.. I've noticed that since I've owned the car which is only about 2 months I get this loud clicking sound from the passenger rear? If I am not mistaken I believe one of the evap control valves is located on this side.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 F-250 6.2l with a P0456 code. Is there a common fix for this issue?
View 9 Replies