Ford - Mustang :: 2005 - AC Not Blowing Cold Anymore
Oct 28, 2015
So roughly 2 months ago my ac wasnt blowing cold anymore and it was the evaporator, so i got a new one put in and recharged and it blows 50 degrees or colder now and it still blew that cold today. But today i heard a noise coming from the engine, so i inspected it and saw the compressor was turning on and off which it was doing right before i got it fixed 2 months ago, so I know its not the compressor but i know that's probably gonna go soon to. now its getting to winter so I don't need the ac.
Everything else is working perfect never had any problems with the car other then the ac, it does get used a lot cause but it never gets pushed passed level 2 out of 4. it has 90k on it and i was wondering if this is a major repair to just let it go and sell it for a reasonable price and pick up another car? or just fix it and hope another problem does not arise in 2 months. Like i said ive never had any problems with it before other then the ac. it still runs great and i can still floor it and she responds almost like new.
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AC works, but only drops temp by 15 degrees. Pressures 40/150 after adding some 134a.
Compressor runs continuously at idle. (I don't know if this is correct or not.)
Not sure what the issue is.
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My 05 has always had good air conditioning front and back but around three weeks ago it quit blowing cold. I found all the 134 had leaked out through a pin hole in the aluminum line that runs down the back of the engine to the rear ac unit. I removed the line and brazed the pin hole. So I reinstalled the line, put a vacume on the system for 20 mins then let it sit for another 20 to make sure I had no leaks. All seemed good so I re charged the system. Now my front blows nice and cold but the rear is warm?
My pressures at idle are around 40psi low side and 200ish on the high side when the engine is warmed up and the ambeint temp is around 74 f. If I turn it to the warmest setting for the rear it gets noticeably hotter so I'm thinking the blend door is working properly?? I've read that the thermal expansion valves can give some trouble so I pulled the jack and cubby out to gain access to it. I tried tapping on it with no gains. Also the top left line seems to be pretty cold coming out of it too the evaporator but the line coming out of the evap is room temp. I was very careful not to let any junk get into the lines when they were apart for the line repair but I'm thinking maybe some junk has plugged up the TXV?
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I have a 2005 Yukon XL. In Oct 2010, my front A/C started blowing hot air even though it was set to cold. Nothing has happened since then, except that about a month ago, the A/C in the front stopped working but the A/C in the back still works great. The one in the front works when it wants to (once or twice in a week) and when it does, there is cold air coming out of it. We live in FL so it is getting pretty hot to not have A/C and we are going on vacation soon. What can be causing my A/C to work like this?
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2005 Isuzu Ascender 6cyl--auto-- all power--2 wheel dr-- Air cond blows very little air that is only slightly cooler than the outside temp. This only happens during hot weather( 90 Fahrenheit or higher ) after highway driving for extended periods of time, usually after a few hours. It works as it should during any other conditions. After letting everything cool down, it works properly. The dealer says they cannot get it to duplicate this action and therefor says there is nothing wrong with it. I first noticed this at about 50,000 miles because that was my first trip in it. It now has 70,000 miles.
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I have this problem for some time already. Most of the time my AC works great - blowing cold air as it should. But sometimes it starts blowing "normal" air instead of cold. To fix that I have to turn OFF and then ON the AC again by pressing the AC button.
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My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
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My problems in my ac begin last year around Summer. My ac was blowing hot and not cold and once it even blew some kind of smoke out of the vents. It only did that once and hasn't since. I went to good year and put some freon in the car. And it started to blow cold again and I was good for a while. Well I didn't need the cold air for the last few months till the heat started up again.
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I have a 95 Ford mustang GT. When it is cold outside (Below 40 ish) it starts for about 1 second, dies abd the second time starts fine. has check engine light for lean exhaust. vacume pressure fine and been using injector cleaner but no improvement. replaced spark plug/ wires pcv valve.
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When the a/c fan is on any setting other than the highest setting the air comes out cold. When the fan is set to the highest setting, it only comes out warm. This happens regardless of a/c or max a/c setting, regardless of fresh or recirculated air, and regardless of car speed. (2005 Mustang GT)
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Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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I have a 2011 Mustang base with the V-6 engine and 6 speed transmission. It is my summer car, getting fewer than 3,000 miles on it per year. I take very good care of it. My question is what is the mechanical knocking noise I am hearing on cold starts? It continues for about 5 minutes until the engine is fully warm, then stops. The noise comes from the valve cover area. It clearly is a noise that cycles with the movement of internal parts. Is it normal or could be something serious. The car only has 10,000 miles on it (it was sold in 2010 as a 2011 model, so it is 5 years old now).
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I got a 2002 mustang v6 and I hadn't flushed the coolant since 5 years ago so I decided to take off the radiator cap off too check the status of the coolant. As I took the cap off, coolant started to slowly spill out of it so I quickly put the cap right on. What causing this? My car was already cooled down and it can't be a head gasket problem cause I don't see white smoke. And I don't see any leaks from hoses and water pump . I park my car outside could it be the sun heating it up and making the coolant flowing out when I take the cap off? What causing this?
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I'm a proud owner of 2005 Mustang GT, 4.6L with an automatic transmission. Intermittently for the last year or so (maybe once every 3 or 4 months) its been shuddering when in reverse. Today it ramped things up a notch. :-/ The shuddering was pretty dramatic when I was trying to back out of my driveway, I shifted into park for a moment, then back into reverse, and it seemed to be ok. Then when trying to back into a parking spot this afternoon at work (in a parking garage with a small incline) it lost power almost entirely in reverse, lightly pushing on the gas just caused the car to shudder and not move anywhere. I shifted into park, and then back into reverse and heard an audible "pop" (my windows were down, but they hadn't been earlier so I'm not sure if this happened in the morning) and the car did not want to reverse. Rather than risk further damage I decided that it was parked relatively ok (90% in the space, eh good enough) so I stopped.
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I have a 2005 v6 ford mustang and lately the rpm and the gas gauge have been misreading. At first the it was the gas gauge that was reading off then the rpm gauge soon after. However, sometimes the rpm gauge will be working right but my gas gauge is just completely wrong. The other two gauges are working just fine( temperature & speedometer) ...
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So, I've had my car for about 4 years now. It's a 2008 basic PT Cruiser. About two years ago it started to make this weird noise whenever the AC was on. My car would shake and rumble if the AC was on during idle and the AC wouldn't be cool anymore. Whenever I was driving, it was fine. We charged it and then it quit doing that. A little after that, it started making this weird noise when I turned it on-kind of sounding like something was being banged around under the hood of my car. It also started to make this loud kind of screeching noise, and some gas or steam would sometimes (not often) come out from under the hood.
Then I got in a wreck and they said they fixed it when they repaired the car. Now, 2 years later, it's starting to make that same noise. The rumbling has continued, but when I charge it, it goes away. I just charged my AC about 5 weeks ago, but now it's starting again and the noise just started again this morning. I was told that there was a disc (something like that?) that may have cut my belt, but they said that they fixed that when they repaired my car from the wreck. If that was fixed, then shouldn't it not be doing this?
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So, yesterday my fob just stopped working out of nowhere. Red light comes on, but none of the buttons work... nothing happens whatsoever. So, for a few times I used the key within the fob to lock/unlock the car. Now, even that key won't work. When I peeked inside my car, I noticed a light flashing that I've never seen before. It looks like a car with a key inside of it, and it's been flashing since last night.
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I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. Just recently when I have the air turn on, it blows warm/hot air on the drivers side where the passenger side is cold as ice??? What gives??? I have the dual zone feature, and the drivers site is warm weather its on dual zone or regular.
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I have an 05 Elantra and the blinkers suddenly don't work any more. Both of them. The headlights still work and everything else seems fine. I tried checking the fuses and the ones I can see are fine but there are several that are larger and opaque. You can't see if they are tripped. What could be causing the blinkers not to work and how do I check the fuses if that is the culprit?
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For the past month or so my 05 TDI Jetta has been having some acceleration issues. It starts good and when i start driving it goes ok (but not as good as it should) but when the car gets close to 3k rpm it doesn't pick up speed anymore. I recently had it taken into a shop where they fixed other issues but they didn't fix this one. also sometimes it will accelerate faster than it did before it had issues but then it just stops picking up seed. I have looked up this issue but haven't found a cause for it.
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