Ford - Mustang :: 2004 - RPMs Dropped Almost To The Point Of Cutting Off
Aug 23, 2013
I have a '04 Ford Mustang Convertible, V6 engine, and today on the way home it really scared me. I was stuck in traffic for an hour and a half, moving a few feet at a time, when all of the sudden, about 40 minutes into it, the RPM's dropped almost to the point of cutting off. This happened a total of 3 times until I finally got out of traffic. The last time it happened, I threw my hands up and said "I am going to see what it does." The previous 2 times I had stepped on the gas, but this time I did not, and it got to the point to almost cutting off, then caught itself and throttled back up.
Now, it was 90 degrees in Charlotte today and the AC was on. I was told this might be the issue. I have never had this happen before, but then again I don't live in Charlotte and this was something that has only happened this once in the whole year I have owned it. I thought maybe I was low on fuel, but the gage did not register as low, and no fuel light came on. I am hoping it was just the AC compressor driving the RPM's low...
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I owned a 2012 Ford Mustang that had a safety issue with the stability control. At random times around 50MPH, the stability control would randomly kick on, cutting throttle and applying the brakes - sometimes with force - causing the car to slow down, shimmy, and sway from side to side. These incidents didn't happen often, but when they did - watch out! Since the dealer couldn't replicate the issue, I decided to take a video of the car performing it's deed (and others have as well. This is by no means limited to just my car). Ford - at the corporate level - basically told me that unless the problem was happening when the dealership was looking at it, they weren't going to do a thing about it. As far as they were concerned, what I was experiencing was perfectly acceptable, and apparently normal.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and when I start it for the first time of the day, it idles really rough, and way below 500RPMs (to the point where it almost stalls). After about 10 minutes, when the car is all warmed up, it runs smoothly, as if there was nothing wrong with it. The only conclusion I can draw is that it is temperature related, but I can't figure out exactly what is causing the issue. This happens on the driest or wettest of days, so moisture doesn't seem to be an issue.
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I was preparing my sons 2004 escape (3.0L) for a vacation by changing out the spark plugs. When done, I noticed that the engine lacks power during acceleration and has a very high shifting point from normal (3500 rpm). There were no DTC's set so I took it all apart again, this time changing the intake manifold gaskets both upper and lower. I put it all back together and have the same issue. I have double checked (actually quadruple checked) all of the vacuum lines and electronic connections but to no avail. The truck still has very poor power, at idle it bottoms out around 500 rpm. From a start at a stop sign, with the pedal floored it takes a city block to get up to 35 mph. Where I can look next?
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I have a 2003 Ford Musang 3.8L v6 when I start my car for the first time of the day or after several hours of sitting the car idles high between 1000-1300 RPMs for approximately 15-20 seconds after that it idles down to 600-800 rpms. I changed the spark plugs wires air filter not sure what else it could be no Check engine light.
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99 ford taurus 232000 miles. Great car I keep it fairly well maintained or my mechanic does actually. The thermostat was faulty and while in a long idle it shot all the way to HOT. The car did not over heat. the thermostat was replaced. A week later another long idle and it shot up to HOT again. A few days after that it was discovered I had a leak from the O rings going into the radiator part/section. They were replaced.
Yesterday I drove from work to the store about 25 miles. I got back to my car - started it up - it was rough/sluggish. I drove it 100 feet and noticed the RPM dropped or would not go up to where it had been normally. 40 to 45 miles an hour RPM at 1 or 1.5 .....It drove home "ok" but, I have had the car 13 years and I know there is something wrong. But I do not know what.
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I have a 2003 Mach 1 Mustang, ( 4.6 DOHC 32 Valve)....
When I start my car in the morning. Idling the car sounds normal and perfect with my SLP exhaust. But when I start to go on my merry way, when I’m in 1st and 2nd gear and I accelerate past about 2.8K rpm's. I hear a really quite noticeable pingy/tingy sounds from my engine (Yes sounding like that annoying AMMCO commercial with people making noises). This will continue for a little while when i get into my normal running temperature, the sound isn’t as "Loud" so to say but still present.
I can comfortably say that there is nothing loose within the engine compartment. My spark plugs are tightened to the proper amount. I experience no performance lost as well. This has just been a nuisance since I have purchased the car, it currently has almost 60k mileage and has followed the proper maintenance.
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Let's say I'm going from zero to forty, my RPMs will hit over 3000, but when it shifts, the RPMS will drop down to 2000-ish really hard, making the car jerk. It's not a smooth drop, it's like a split second. Upon acceleration there is also a very rapid knocking sound. There's no lights on my instrument cluster.
This trouble all started after I had my alternator die, then having the car towed a few months back. Ever since then this problem has been getting worse. Wat this could be?
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New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
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I recently purchased a 2004 Mercury Sable with about 112K miles on it. I am having some troubles with my car and I'm not sure where to start first in repairing it. I recently took my car to a mechanic because accelerating on the highway or going up hills made my car sound engine run very hard and loud, my RPMs went up to 3K and my speed dropped to 15 mph (which is a disaster when you're on the highway and hit a steep grade). My car absolutely cannot do any sort of hill so the mechanic suggested that either he or I replace one of the catalytic converters. He showed me which one he thought was throwing the error code. I replaced that catalytic converter and I thought my problems were solved because I could accelerate without difficulty.
However, a day later I tried to drive it up a hill and got the exact same response as before. RPMS jump up and the speed drops down to 15 mph and I've just about got the pedal to the floor. I have friends who repair cars as a hobby and they disagree with each other where I should go from here. One friend says replace the muffler and resonator (possible blockage that cannot bear any stress under a load...like going up a hill). Another friend says replace the third catalytic converter (one was replaced when we bought the car by the dealership, and I just replaced another one). He says when one catalytic converter goes the others are not far behind.
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So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
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Last wednesday when I was on my way home, the car felt like it lost power and the RPMs dropped, I keep on driving until I got home, I let the car cool off for a few minutes then I tried to start it and it wouldn't, after a few tries the car started and then died.
I didn't take it to the dealer because it was kinda late but I called and made an appointment for the next day, I ended up not taking in the car since it ran good all day and I know they don't do nothing unless they can replicate the problem, now this morning the car started acting again and it smells like gas inside the cabin and weird noises are coming from the gas tank filler neck.
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Started the car and noticed a strange sloshing sound come from the dash. Following this the car's RPMs dropped and the engine made a sort of clunky/shaking/rattling sound. stopped and restarted, and drove home fine. check engine lights on so took it to autozone to be read. got back three codes.
What the problem might be or if each code is independent from one another. Here's the codes we found:
p0456 - evap emission control system pressure leak
p0302 - cylinder 2 misfire
p0117 - engine coolant temp (ECT) circuit fault
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About a week ago I noticed my RPMs suddenly dropped while I was driving. a couple days later after driving the highway for about 45 mins, averaging probably 80-90mph, I got into town and I stopped for a car to park. Then it just stalled, I didn't notice a kick back, it's like the car just shut itself off. It took probably 10 attempts to start again. About a mile down the road it did the same thing pulling up to a stop light. I sat through 2 light cycles before it started again.
Got to my destination was there for maybe an hour, when I left the car started fine. Drove for about another hour on back roads when the Rpms started dropping again and I would need to dump the clutch to get them to go back up. Then my screen started beeping telling me to STOP with and oil pressure alert. I ended up driving the car home dumping the clutch whenever the rpms would drop. Once I got home I had my boyfriend take it out and nothing... Of course... A couple days have gone by and it hasnt been as bad but it still drops every now and then, and today after driving home maybe 5 miles it stalled again...
I've plugged it in and my speed sensor is throwing codes, but I don't think that's the entire problem. Whenever my car acts up the EPC light comes on but no check engine light so far. 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8t.....
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I have a 2010 corolla s and I started to notice that when I was at red lights with the car in drive my rpm's would drop to around 600 but it would only do it randomly, or so i thought until one day I was at a light and turned the ac on and my rpm's went back up to 800 so I turned it off and the rpm's dropped again, turned on the headlights and they went back up.
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I have an issue with the 02 1.8t (wife has an issue). We recently took our car in to get some service work done and the mechanic informed me that he thinks the tranny is starting to go and just baby it....Fast forward a month the wife is driving the car, she said at around 40mph 2k RPM and the RPMs just drop after hearing a screeching/grinding noise....
Then she tried to apply throttle and it redlined...She said it would shoot up in RPM and not go over 30mph, she used the triptonic to get home and was able to get up to 45..Sat for a bit and I drove it, everything seemed ok..Shifts good, stops fine, no weird noises, etc....
Car is a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/ 148k miles, regularly maintained, never had tranny oil flushed..
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I have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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I have a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 140K miles. The car has a rumble-strip like vibration that will come and go at any speed. But seems to be most noticeable at highway speeds when the car hits a ruff spot in the road. It will rumble for a short while the gradually go away. It can be more pronounced sometimes than other times.
The car did hit a curb with the right side front tire, enough so that the tire had to be replaced and did scuff up the wheel pretty good also. Had the one tire replaced, all tires balanced and rotated. Front-end alignment done.
Engine and transmission both seem to operate smoothly. New plugs, wires and throttle body cleaned. New brakes all four. I have noticed the ball joint on the front right does have a small amount of play?
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Had a front passenger side wheel bearing replaced 50,000 miles ago on a 2004 Mustang GT and its bad again.Is there anyhing else that could cause a wheel bearing to go bad so soon.
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A little background. I was changing the oil and oil filter and noticed that the battery post was corroded. Disconnected the battery and cleaned the post. After that, I have noticed that most of the time, whether hot or cold, the engine cranks normally, quickly looses rpm to the point of almost stalling then recovers and runs fine after that. No check engine lights on at all. I have since removed the battery connections and waited about 5 minutes and reconnected them, turned on the ac, lights, anything that would put a load on the engine and cranked it hoping that it was just a computer problem. Nope, same issue. Truck runs fine otherwise, just the start up issue. Engine is gas powered 5.4 liter V-8.
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