Ford - Mustang :: 2001 - Dies While Driving?
Oct 12, 2014
My 01 mustang gt which I have never had any problems with, well one day while coming home from school out of nowhere it didn't want to start at all ,all it did was a "clank" noise and I thought it was the battery so I got a friend to pass me cables but it still didn't start , but its a stick shift and I know that most of the time they start with a little push and it turned on and I was able to make it home but when I tried turning it on again it would just make a "clank" noise so I assumed it was the starter so I replaced it but it still didn't start so I went ahead and bought a new battery and now it started ,so I thought the problem was fixed but the next day around 7pm after using it for a while throughout the day all my electrical power shut down even my dashboard didn't mark anything but the car kept running until I made it home so I turned it off and tried turning it back on but it wouldn't start like the battery didn't have any power to make it start because the engine was trying so I left my battery charging for a couple of hours and it turned back on so I tried going to the corner store today but now my car shut down completely it left me on the middle of the street i got a friend to pull me and when I got home I charged my battery again and it runs again so I thought ok this has to be the alternator so I removed It and took it to O'Reilly auto parts and got it tested but it passed the test they told me it was good so what it might be ?
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Okay so i have a 86 Ford Mustang LX 3.8L v6 so i have a brand new starter, starter solenoid and ignition lock cylinder installed all not even a half a week old so my issue is when i go to start my car it cranks over just fine and fires up when i release the key to just let it run it instantly dies it will run if i just fine if i hold it in place, what it could be and that's ignition switch in steering column ...
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I have a 1966 Ford Mustang 2 + 2 (289 cu. in.) V8 with four barrel carburetor. It has more than 170K miles on it. It starts right away, but when I shift the automatic transmission to reverse or forward it dies out every time. I changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter, but the problem persists. I have had this car for almost 46 years now and I cannot bear to part with it.
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Got this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
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I own a 2001 Daewoo Lanos S which has about 96k miles.
Today, I was driving my car home and it just died with no warning or anything. I drove it earlier to work and back and even an extra stop and didn't even could tell that there was something wrong. The power didn't go out though like from the battery. I then tried to start it back up and it won't start now. Like the engine can't get that kick to start up. I was told the oil valve gasket(?) was leaking, but I checked it everytime before I drove it and it did have oil in the car. Also, I have had the problem of smelling gas inside the car when I fill it up (fuel filter??) I know that the Lanos did have a recall over the crankshaft sensor, so could that be it? I just don't have a lot of money to spend on random parts that won't fix it nor (unless I absolutely have to) go to a mechanic since I live with one, just need the part(s).
Was so excited too because I just found a replacement for my passenger window regulator.
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Well i was driving the other night home and all of the sudden my 02 2.7 Awd Santa Fe dies and wont start back up. Of all places it dies on a hill around a big turn in front of a grave yard. I mean it didn't make and funny sounds or anything just died. What the problem could be. I just replaced the cam sensor last week, I have read that it could be the crankshaft sensor or even timing belt. It does have higher miles 189k.
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This car has me stumped I've got a 67 mustang that is overheating only while driving I've replaced the radiator new 180 thermostat facing the proper way bypassed the heater core replaced the head gasket flushed the cooling system but after running vehicle for ten to fifteen minutes one side of the block is reading 178 degrees the other side is reading 240 in lost.
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I have a 2006 Ford Mustang V6. Recently after driving and turning the car off the coolant has been spilling out through the cap of the coolant reservoir. The car drives fine and does not overheat so it appears the cooling system works while driving. I have not identified any visible leaks and the heat inside the car works. I have replaced the coolant reservoir cap, thermostat, and thermostat casing.
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My 1990 mustang 5.0 LX has a very consistent stalling problem when travelling long distance on the highway at a good speed. After 2 hours of driving highway speeds and then pulling off the highway, the car stalls after I brake or stop at a light. I don't know why this seems braking related, but not sure. I then sit and crank the motor and it cranks for a bit and starts right up. I think it's fuel, but now sure yet.
Here's what I have done:1. Tune-up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor2. new fuel pressure regulator3. new fuel filter4. new fuel cap5. Checked for vacuum leaks (none found)
It seems to not happen when the gas tank is low, but I can't swear to it.
I'm going to run a fuel pressure gauge to the futhel rail and see if I can catch the drop off of fuel pressure when it occurs. Also, I noticed that the gas cap does not hiss when I unscrew it at any point in time.
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it's been parked for about 2 months in my driveway, which slants upwards. I cranked it for a solid 30 minutes (jumped the battery so it wouldn't die). I don't smell gas so I think gas isn't making to the motor.
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I have a 2001 Ford Mustang, V6, 3.8 Liters, automatic transmission, 120,000 miles. Recently, my car has started to stall/misfire at when I come to a full stop at a red light. It feels like the car is going to shut down and like it has no power. I have to press the gas really hard to get it to pick up power and speed. It doesn't happen every time and I've noticed that it happens less early in the morning or at night, and it happens more often during the day when it is really hot (I live in Az and temperatures are currently in the 100sF).
The "service engine" light is not turning on. The battery was checked and it's fine (recently replaced in September 2011). The alternator was changed 1 month ago. The cooling fan was replaced 1 month ago. I took it the the Ford agency and no codes are turning up and they can't seem to duplicate the problem even though the ran the car for 15 miles. They checked coils, spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel filter, gas pump pressure, and it all seems fine. They advised that I fill up my gas tank with Premium gas and add fuel injector cleaning fluid. I did and the problem is still there. They then advised to fill up gas tank again with Premium and add Techrnon additive. I did and the problem is still there.
I am scared that my car will stall and turn off while doing a left turn with oncoming traffic or in the freeway.
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This is on an 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l and a T5OD tranny. I installed a new clutch and now when the car is on, it won't shift into any gear. But I can start the car in gear and let go of the clutch and it moves forward just fine. I took everything back apart and checked the clutch plate and it is in there correctly. The clutch fork is completely on the little pivot ball.
The throw out bearing is the same size and everything as the old one. I pulled up on the clutch pedal to self adjust. Still not going into gear when the car is on.
I have heard that I might have air in my clutch line. But this clutch is cable actuated, not hydraulic. I have no master cylinder. Like I said before, I already pulled up on the clutch to self adjust and still no luck.
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I have a 2001 mustang GT. I have 2 front calipers that are sticking. I changed both calipers twice, new brake hoses, bled all the wheels and the master cylinder. Why the calipers won't release?
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I changed the seal on the tank filler neck, now I run out of gas at 1/4 tank. How to "reset" the gauge?
2001 3.8 V-6 5-speed
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My 1999 ford windstar died last month while driving. No signs no symptoms just shut off while driving. Towed it to a mechanic paid $400 for a new fuel pump. I get it back and still having problems. The van dies while driving at any speeds. I've had it shut off when starting to stop at stop signs and I've had it shut off while driving 60. Each time I put it in park it starts up just fine. I took it in to get a computer check and all that it said is rich fuel. So they told me o2 sensor. Two mechanics have informed me o2 sensor would not cause those problems.
Recently someone told me ignition coil was their problem on a truck they had having the same problems. So I watched a YouTube video and I think I can do it myself. Let me just say I don't know anything about cars but it looks simple and I am not willing to sink money on mechanics that clearly themselves can't figure out the problems. Am I right to change the coil or do any of you think it might be something else? I don't want to waste my time if it's not the coil. I have had this van for 3 months. I got for $800 and have now paid about $800 in repairs. Its a good van but im Not paying out more so from here on out this is my let's learn about fixing my own car car. I've read some threads about also changing the spark plugs or the coil will break again I'm also think I can do that as well. Again do you think this is the right track or is it maybe something else.
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My 1999 Ford Taurus has been dying randomly at any given time. I have changed the fuel filter, top grade fuel, fuel cleaner, and it has thrown no codes. It will start and run, and I will drive down the road just a mile and the first thing that happens is the wheel locks up, the battery light comes on, then all others. It turns over and over and will not start, let it rest for a few hours and it will start again and do the same thing. some times it will go a few days with no problems, then it will go only a few minutes. Next thing on my list is change plugs and wires because I do not have much money so am just guessing at cheap things and hoping for the best. What this could be to make it stall at random times, not throw the engine light off?
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I have a "56 thunderbird with a mid-60"s ford 390 engine w/ 4 bbl holley. I just had engine completely rebuilt and everything else is new: carb, distributor, electric fuel pump, fuel tank, etc.
Problem: car stalls and dies after a few minutes of driving. Generally restarts after waiting about a half hour, but not always. I have a fuel filter with clear bowl in fuel line just ahead of carb. The bowl is usually about 2/3 full of fuel, but general appears empty when the car stalls.
After waiting a while, the bowl refills and the car restarts.
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1992 Escort GT 1.8 liter ... It's been a problem for a while, where I'll just be driving (or at a stoplight) and the engine dies. It doesn't sputter or give any signs (that I know of) before it goes. Usually if I let it sit for a while, generally under an hour, it'll start right up again and run for a few days and then happen again. The engine light will sometimes come on, but only after I get it started up again, and it never stays on for long. The other day, it died on my way to work and didn't start up again for a few days, but the engine light was on, and gave a code 23. I think this means I should get the throttle sensor fixed.
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I have a 1985 ranger 2.3l efi and it bogs and dies while while driving, it can sit and idle all day long but when you go to drive it, it works great for 3-4 minutes then out of nowhere starts bogging sometimes I can keep it going a little longer but in the end the truck always dies . I know I'm loosing fuel pressure , I hooked a gauge up to it and drive it down the road when the truck died it showed 10 psi , from here I'm lost . It has a new fuel pump in the tank and I can hear the other one running when I click the key on , Also two new fuel filters .
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Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
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My excursion died while driving down the road I lose everything but once I turn the key off and turn it back on it will start turning over again but don't . I let it set for a few minutes and it will start right back up like nothing every happen . this is our only transportation for now. The recent things I've done is change out the radiator and upper and lower hoses due to a tiny crack in the neck. I also changed out the hose from turbo to pipe on the hot side due to wear out hole.
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