I have a 2001 mustang GT. I have 2 front calipers that are sticking. I changed both calipers twice, new brake hoses, bled all the wheels and the master cylinder. Why the calipers won't release?
View 19 RepliesI've replaced the front brakes twice now on my 2004 2.4L Manual Santa Fe.
Each time the dealership has commented on some excessive rusting of the calipers, and this last time around one had actually seized and they had to cut it off.
When I got brand new ones put on I noticed they were nice an shiny silver. Within 3 weeks there were full rusted...and still are. I don't get it??
2004 Santa Fe .... Is it possible something is dripping from somewhere that is caused this premature rusting?
I have a 99 150 4 wheel drive..5.4 ..auto...110.000 mile.....notice when driving in town in hot weather....when you are on and off the brake petal a lot....stop and go..etc.....the truck starts to hop or bounce....some....I got out ..and notice the right or passenger side front brake seems a lot hotter than the drivers side......but ...when it does that....the steering wheel doesn't pull to one side...when changing pads before ..notice no one side worse for ware than other...thinking it must be sticking brake calipers....they don't do this say on interstate driving even when on and off the petal some...
View 1 RepliesSince I have this car i noticed that the brake calipers (especially the front) are very noisy. This problem is caused by caliper's floating guides that become loose and the entire brake caliper shakes. I asked at a kia mechanic who answered to me to change the calipers support. For my trusted mechanic is useless because, according to him, this type of support have this problem (he tell me that also others car have this problem like older nissan micra) and sooner or later would return noisy.
Some time ago with greasing the floating guides i temporary solved but drying up over time the problem come back.
Fairly recently acquired 1992 525i, 101,000 miles. Love the car and driving feel, don't mind putting the effort in but do not know where to start. She needed some work including both upper and lower control arm bushings. Replaced those over the last couple of weekends. This week the front brake calipers are locking up adding significant drag to the car, overheating the front brakes, smells and feels hot. Rear brakes appear to be fine. Seller had replaced brakes within the last 5,000 miles. I thought maybe he did not 'grease' the caliper guide pins and components, so I tried that and all was well for a few miles then back to the same locking brake calipers.
Is this brake caliper, brake cylinder, master cylinder or ABS related? Do I need to bleed the system? I cannot not imagine how but could replacing any of the front suspension components have had anything to do with this? I read on one thread about an interconnection (power assist) provided by the power steering pump and that 'over filling' the PS reservoir could cause such a problem. I did add fluid to the reservoir recently but the level is between the marks on the cap dip stick.
If caliper, or cylinder related is this DYI? How about the ABS? I have been looking for some good links to address this problem and repair procedures but no luck as yet.
Tons of information on this and its possible. What? I'm still learning the search feature.
View 1 RepliesHeard clunk (technicdal term) noise when you are in reverse and press the brake pedal. It is coming from the front end/brake area. I did not see a service bulletin for this.
View 10 RepliesI have a new 2012 mustang GT with just under 5000 miles (no brembo package). For the first 3-5 stops, the passenger front brake squeals loudly right before coming to a stop, then goes away for a while. Intermittently, while the car is warm, it will squeal very loudly at low speeds when coming to a stop (10mph). The car does not pull and the stopping power doesn't seem to be affected. I've taken it to the dealership, they say they can't reproduce the sound. They resurfaced the rotor and claim that nothing is wrong with the brakes, but the resurfacing did nothing to fix the problem.
View 4 Replies2006 Mustang GT Convertible; air conditioner doesn't always work. When I press the button to turn on the air conditioner, the panel light illuminates but the a/c compressor does not engage. After driving the car for anywhere between 10 and 45 minutes, the compressor clutch will engage and the air conditioner cools normally. When I first noticed this problem over a year ago, I discovered that if I left the air conditioner in the "on" position when I turned off the car, the air conditioner would work the next time I started the car. This hasn't happened lately (so much for that "solution"). The car has been at the local Ford dealer multiple times for this problem and although they have been able to duplicate the problem, they have no solution. The dealer checked the electronics, recharged the system and tested the computer and told me that these were all fine.
View 1 Replies I have a 1995 ford mustang with a 3.8 v6, and have recently discovered an electrical problem. First I thought it was just the headlight switch. We replaced it, but looking at the old one, we found that it had gotten so hot, it melted all the plastic off the wires, and that this caused the switch to burn out. I replaced the old one with a new one but it still gets super hot. I'm afraid to drive my car at night for the reason that my lights might fail me in the dark.
Another problem, I'm unsure if they are associated, but it did appear around the same time I replaced the headlight switch. When my car is running, it is impossible to shift it from the park. The button on the shifter (its an automatic transmission) refuses to give, and the result is that my car can only be shifted into gear by turning the key to turn on the ignition position while pressing in the button on the shifter, and then starting my car and driving off. Another thing that i'm sure is associated with this problem is that the cruise control will not be turned off by the brake. It will disengage the cruise when braking but re-engages after my foot leaves the brake. These last two problems began at the same time.
2001 Elantra, Hand brake stuck, is there a release button? I can not seem to release my hand brake. How can I release it so I can make adjustments?
View 2 RepliesI have a 92 Park Ave and the right front brake caliper will squeeze then release pressure even while holding the brake pedal down, which does not go to the floor, the left front brake is doing most of the stopping. I have bleed that caliper but still same problem. Is the ABS module proportioning wrong? By the way, the brake pads are brand new.
View 5 RepliesI have two 2002 ford Excursions, both with 7.3, one 2WD and one 4WD. I have replaced ALL brake calipers with lifetime warranty Napa semi-calipers. It is sometimes an intermittent problem, I might have smoking brakes on one wheel (mostly the rears) one day and it will work fine for weeks or months and then do it again. It seems that about 1X per year I end up having to replace the calipers as they seize up and cause the brakes to smoke and cooks the caliper piston boot to a crisp.
I use high temp brake caliper grease (not sure if it is silicone based) and bleed the brake system about 1X per year because I thought the brake fluid was absorbing too much moisture. The slide pins come pre-greased, but I always check and re-grease them. Could I be putting too much grease onto the slide pins, Hydrolock?
I live in high humidity, in the middle of a rain forest near (about 5 miles away) a live volcano, Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii. Our area is very wet and we have acid raid and acid air (H2SO4 volcanic smog in the air) which corrodes everything, corroded pistons getting stuck?
I have not tried other brands of calipers because I cannot afford to keep buying new brands, I just trade in the toasted calipers at Napa for no charge. I have replaced all the rubber brake hoses and i upgraded to DOT4 (not silicone based) blue racing brake fluid that has a very high wet and dry boiling point. I am thinking of investing in stainless steel calipers, but those are pricey.
Front caliper replacements--fwd? Person I bought this from said they'd just relined the brakes before I got it. After having it a week, I randomly checked torgue on lug nuts...a whopping 80 ft lbs. So now I have the vibrating rotors. When I back up I hear scraping like a bad set of bicycle brakes against an out of round rim. The pads are pretty thick. I bought new rotors and pads but I wonder if I shouldn't get calipers as well. This X likes to bite me in the butt--something simple is always about 5 times more complicated than anticipated.
View 1 RepliesI need more stopping power. Is there a front caliper setup that you guys are using to get better brake performance? Either a direct bolt-in swap from a heavier vehicle (F350??) or a completely new aftermarket setup??
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased an '08 F-350 4x4 Lariet Supercab 6.4l and was told by the 3rd party inspection that it needs rear brake pads (2mm left). Are the caliper pistons retractable without having the pistons seize down the road? HOw about the fronts? See below.
I ask as on my '06 F-250 XLT 4x2 5.4l the rear calipers seized without even doing a pad change and the fronts seized about 100 miles after a pad change. Come to find out it is a common problem with the '06 and the calipers either have to be replaced or rebuilt when changing pads. Now I've been "told" to expect the same with the '08.
Both of my rear brake calipers hung while traveling in mountains. Both so hot that I had no brakes. Had not been riding the brakes. Had to bump them when someone pulled out in front of me. Never noticed them hanging but smelled them and then hit the brakes and no brakes. They were so hot that they blew the valve stems out of both rear tires. Once they cooled, I had brakes. What would cause both to hang up at the same time?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
View 5 RepliesWe had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
I have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 Replies