Ford - Mustang :: 2000 - Interior Lights Won't Shut Off
May 9, 2011
I was driving when I noticed my interior lights didn't shut off. After which I pulled over shut my doors and trunk and the lights still wouldn't turn off. I kept trying to shut them off, I also used my car clicker to lock my doors (which before would shut them off as soon as I hit the lock button) but they still stayed on. I am currently pulling the interior light fuse to shut them off so it doesn't drain my battery.
I tried to look up solutions but so far nothing has worked.
*I tried to turn the nob that also controls my headlights but still nothing
*I pushed in the switchs and it doesn't appear anything is wrong with them
One solution suggested that there was another fuse that controlled a timer but I'm not sure what fuse its talking about.
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how do make interior lights cut off when the door is shut instead of the delay
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Purchased a new 2016 F250 Diesel. When you shut the truck off or open any door while the vehicle is parked, the interior, markers, and bed lights all come on. I know it is suppose to be a convenience but to me it is a pain. And to make matters worst, they remain on for a short period of time after you leave the truck and close the door. Sometimes you don't want the lights to come on, like when you shut the truck off and are waiting to pickup someone. Any solution for this problem, short of removing the bulbs, or reprograming the computer?
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Last night I drove to pick up my wife from work, well I got to the place and put the Touareg in park and shutdown the engine. The light switch was in Auto as it was getting dark and the lights had come on while I was enroute.
When I shut down the engine the interior lights stayed on, as well as the taillights I noticed. I sat in the car waiting for 10-15 minutes listening to the radio with the interior lights on. Was I draining my battery? Should I not do this in the future by switching the light switch to off from auto?
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If I have the switch set for the lights to turn on when I open the doors, they don't turn off when the doors are shut they just stay on all of the time. Also, sometimes they don't work at all and sometimes they do. My 12v outlet doesn't work either but I am guessing it's the fuse..
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Truck is a 2000 Excursion, V10 4x4 auto about 160k miles. Tried searching couldn't find anything relevant The problem is it wont start, not even a solenoid click, and the interior lights are blinking as if they were hooked to the turn signals (steady blinking and you can hear/feel the relay in the fusebox clicking). Turning on the key, hazard flashers or headlights makes the blinking go away, turning them back off starts it up again.
The blinking also effects the power windows (the windows go up about 1 inch at a time in time with the blinks). Hitting the panic button on the keyfob causes the horn to go off very faintly in time with the blinking. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did nothing. Checked all the fuses, they were all fine, the #1 and #2 position relays (the ones in the fusebox) are clicking in time with the blinking. The truck started doing this suddenly and with no warning (no dead batteries, jump starts or anything recently).
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I have a 2000 EX 7.3L ... The power windows aren't working and neither is the interior lights. I am hoping it is a couple of fuses. Problem is that I can't find a fuse diagram and I don't have any knowledge about changing the fuses. Do I need to change them both under the hood and under the dash? Which fuses I need to look at changing?
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I have a 2000 E150 (Glavel Conversion) van and the interior lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened, although they used to. They also no longer turn on from the headlight dimmer switch. They will turn on individually if the manual switch at each light is pressed while the engine is running, so the bulbs and wiring appear to be working. I replaced the headlight switch with no noticeable effect. Is there a timing circuit that switches these on for a short period of time to allow illuminated entry that could have failed? If so, where would I find the module and how would I test? Relays and fuses look good.
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Car is a 2000 Passat, 1.8t, APR, Forge Splitter, DV relocated, lowered.
Recently, the interior lights would randomly work and then not work when ANY door would open. Now all interior lights work at all, but the dash lights DO WORK as well as all the lights in the dash. It appears that the issue is isolated to just the map/reading lights. So no map and reading lights whether ANY door is open or if the switch is placed in the on position, this goes for the front, rear upper side lights, and the trunk light. The glove box and under door lights don't work as well. Consequently my drivers side window stopped working as well but I am thinking that may be a separate issue seeing as how the window kind of had a mind of its own before this all happened.
Things that I have checked:
1) I first thought that the microswitch in the drivers door was toast but the door alarm still works when the drivers door is open, the power locks still work, and the headlight alarm works when they are on and drivers door is open.
2) I checked the two main fuses for the 'Comfort Control' Systems. They were both fine.
3) I check for continuity across both of those circuits at the fuse block, the circuit is complete.
4) I checked the continuity of the fuses, they were fine.
The only thing I haven't physically checked is the CCM itself. I want to believe that this isn't the issue since I am religious about cleaning out my drains in the battery tray and door jambs.
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I have a 2003 accent and i no longer have interior lights or a door chime working..
I did have a electrician friend change out my hatch last week and pretty sure he shorted out the fuse. I can't seem to see what fuse it would be all seem good
From me checking around i am lead to belive the it could be (shunt connector, memory fuse, power connector, joint connector m31) multiple names for the same thing.
How would i check this? How is it removed?
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1998 v6 3.8 upper and lower intake gaskets replaced last week by my cousin. Now when it warms up and you shut it off is squeals. Someone said it could be the gasket isn't seated right and it's sucking air from the crankcase. It squeals after the engine is shut off for a few seconds.
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The inside lights on my 00 Passat does not go off when i shut the door and so i keep getting the buzzing sound as if door still open. Because of that I can't use the remote to lock the door. I don't see anything around the hinges or the side of the lock on the door that makes the lights turn off when the door is shut. What this could be? This is on the passenger side. I cant even lock all the doors with the key, i have to press the lock button inside the door first before i can lock the driver door.
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I have a 2001 Ford Mustang, V6, 3.8 Liters, automatic transmission, 120,000 miles. Recently, my car has started to stall/misfire at when I come to a full stop at a red light. It feels like the car is going to shut down and like it has no power. I have to press the gas really hard to get it to pick up power and speed. It doesn't happen every time and I've noticed that it happens less early in the morning or at night, and it happens more often during the day when it is really hot (I live in Az and temperatures are currently in the 100sF).
The "service engine" light is not turning on. The battery was checked and it's fine (recently replaced in September 2011). The alternator was changed 1 month ago. The cooling fan was replaced 1 month ago. I took it the the Ford agency and no codes are turning up and they can't seem to duplicate the problem even though the ran the car for 15 miles. They checked coils, spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel filter, gas pump pressure, and it all seems fine. They advised that I fill up my gas tank with Premium gas and add fuel injector cleaning fluid. I did and the problem is still there. They then advised to fill up gas tank again with Premium and add Techrnon additive. I did and the problem is still there.
I am scared that my car will stall and turn off while doing a left turn with oncoming traffic or in the freeway.
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My car sometimes shuts off when I attempt to start the car. I start the car, hear a loud click and the electricity to the entire car dies. No dome lights, no headlights, no radio. I disconnect the negative terminal and re-connect and all power comes back.
The weird part is, sometimes it DOES start. Sometimes it starts on the first try, sometimes I have to disconnect/re-connect 9 or 10 times before it'll eventually start. Once it starts it never loses power or has any issues. What could it possibly be?!
I've ruled out the battery, as it's literally brand new. The connections to the battery terminals seem VERY secure (I've re-done them a few times) and there's no corrosion at all. I sandpapered to be sure. I've also ruled out the fuel pump (obviously).
Could an aftermarket alarm system inherited from a previous owner be doing this? Could there be an issue with the starter? A connection issue elsewhere? Is there any way I can track down the issue on my own?
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I posted a few weeks ago about a problem I fixed with the MAF ( leak after the MAF ). 89 GT 111k miles, ( car restored to showroom condition ) Last week I pull to a stop light and idle is at 2000 RPM. Shut engine off and restarted and all was well, and idle back to about 800. I know something was wrong before hand as the car was pulling without my foot of the throttle. This happened again when I pulled into my driveway so let it run like this and when I pulled the plug on the IAC and idle dropped to about 600.
I took the IAC off the TB and cleaned it which did not look too bad. Installed IAC but left it disconnected and set up the idle on the TB according to the shop manual to 750 RPM. Shut engine off connected the IAC and followed the instructions in the manual to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, letting it idle for 2 minutes shut engine off then restart.
Well it was good for 2 days then started the same thing, 2000 rpm at idle..for the time being I have the IAC disconnected and set the idle up on the TB to about 850 RPM.
I have been driving the car like this for 4 days now and no running problems what so ever. Funny thing is no check engine light and no stored codes during this entire episode..Had my friend with an earlier OBD scan for codes and clean.
I hate shot gunning parts by replacing the IAC. Does it hurt running the car with the IAC disconnected or should I foot the bill and get a new one ? and hope that is the problem..or could something else be causing this ?
I checked for any vacuum leaks using my propane torch no change in idle. IAC problem on 89 Mustang GT 5.0 manual trans.?
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Need to know if the little icons on your interior 'dome' lights illuminate red when your instrument cluster lights are on? (Just like the power window and dash vent icons..) Audis do, but I've never seen a W8 Passat at night to be able to tell.
Looking for a pic of your interior roof lighting? (Not the center console one near the sunroof control...that of course lights up and shows icons.) I'm looking for the ones towards the rear of the car.
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I have a 1988 Jeep comanche I lost my tail lights, front marker lights and dash lights today I have checked all the fuses under the dash and havent found any blown I hooked a trailer up to it today and I think this is the cause some how it caused a short Can you tell me where to look for additional fuses
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Ok I am at my wits end with this. I have a 2000 Mustang GT 5-speed with 80k miles. When the A/C is on it will occasionally misfire at steady, low (between 1-2k) RPMs and will have a fluctuating idle as well. Occasionally the fluctuating idle is bad enough that it stalls out. It only does this when the compressor is engaged. It sounds like a vacuum leak, but I have checked and cannot find any sort of vacuum leak. Also, it throws a P0300 (Random/Multiple misfire) code. When the A/C is off it runs like a charm. Here is everything that I have done...
Replaced COPs
Replaced spark plugs
Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned IAC valve
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump (unrelated to this, the old one just died)
Ran seafoam through the motor
New battery (again, unrelated)
and maybe some other stuff I am forgetting
Also, I have taken some readings:
Fuel pressure @ idle ~32psi
Vacuum @ idle ~17in Hg
Had alternator tested - OK
Pressure in A/C system checked out OK (though I did use one of those AZ cans with a gauge on it, not sure how reliable that is)
Also, the A/C works great. It's like an arctic wind in there.
I am at a total loss for what to do. I would suspect it's something with the motor that is simply exacerbated by the added load of the A/C but I suppose it could be the A/C compressor? Is it possible that it needs lube? Doesn't the freon lube the compressor? (The pressure indicates it's fully charged and the A/C blows cold AF) ...
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2000 Mustang was running fine. It hasn't been driven in a couple of days, and now wont start. No noise in the tank, fuel pump not working. But when you spray gas into the throttle body it wont even try to hit. Fuses under the hood beside the battery are all good. Inerta switch is down and in place. Am I missing something? maybe a relay? I would just think no matter what, getting fuel into the opening of the throttle would cause the car to at least cough.
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My Dome lights will work when switched for "reading lamps" but will not come on via the dimmer switch or when the doors are opened.
I have a bad bulb in the cargo area which I removed. (don't know if every bulb has to be functional)
I have no listing in the owners manual for interior lights or dome lights for the fuses. I assume the 10amp one for the gauge cluster was it.
Have an 411 on where to check now? Also looking for a parts listing for replacement bulbs for all the dome/reading lights.
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Right now, whenever anyone walks up to my truck, they can turn on all the interior lights just by pressing any button on the keypad on the driver's door, even when it's locked. Is there any way to disable this behavior? I carry tools in the back of my Ex and I really don't like this at all.
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