Ford - Mustang :: 1968 - Starter Noise When Disengaging
Jul 13, 2011
I have a 1968 Mustang with a straight 6. From all the research that I could do, the engine appears to be correct for the car.
I replaced the starter with one from AutoZone - DuraLast. The starter engages fine - no noise and the car starts fine. The noise comes when the starter disengages. The noise only last a few seconds. Sometimes it is very loud other times it is very brief.
I did a compare of the old starter to the new starter and noticed that the gear in the old starter sites further back in the starter housing then the new starter. Not sure if that is the issue. I have tried to do some searches to get some views of the starter but no luck.
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I've had my car sitting for 3 weeks and went out this morning to start it and it turns over but won't start. It has fuel and the battery seems to be providing enough power to the starter. It ran fine 3 weeks ago and I have not done any repairs recently that would be cause for the problem, I also changed the oil a month ago.
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I have a '68 302 2 barrel carb Mustang and cannot get it to start! I have spark and I have gas getting into the carburetor. It turns but does not start. I'm at a loss and cannot figure out what to do.
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I have a 1968 Beetle that has been sitting for a long time, after working through a list of items for the restart I put a new battery in and turned it over. Starter works fine and turns engine over but when I turn the key off starter will not stop until I disconnect the battery, When I reconnect battery everything is fine again until I try to start and starter keeps going until I disconnect battery again.
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I have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 motor. Sometimes when I turn the ignition on it seems to keep wanting to start?
meaning it sounds like the starter motor isn't disengaging when the motor turns over, its been back to teh dealer twice now, someone suggested a relay?
I am taking it back again tonight for the auto sparkie to look at. The last time it did this I had to manually turn the car off to stop it turning over.
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My 1968 F250 blows hot air with all controls set to off. The truck is fairly new to me and I'm a complete newb with a wrench....or screwdriver.....I think this should be a fairly easy fix? Aside from that it does work well.....it just doesn't shut all the way off.
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When driving cool it runs great but as soon as temp gets to 205 degrees and idling, it start to bog down and shouts off. When engine cools it will start right up. It has a rubber gas line that feels very warm, we put a sleeve over rubber hose and didn't work.
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I was driving today at maybe 55mph on the highway my car has 82,000 miles and I started to hear a loud jackhammer like noise come from under my hood I pulled over and popped my hood I didn't really see anything mind you I'm no mechanic but I was able to make it home but when I accelerated it got louder, what could be causing this problem? It is a 2006 Ford Mustang 4.0l v6....
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1968 C-850 Super Duty. Cannot find the brake fluid reservoir on this Hahn Firetruck.
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My 2003 Mustang convertible (6cyl) has recently started making a loud clicking noise under the hood that seems to come on after driving in stop-and-go traffic or when turning on the a/c. I don't notice it when driving on the highway at a relatively steady speed. The clicking will continue for a minute or so and then stop for a while. I had also noticed a strange melting plastic or chemical smell coming from under the hood whenever clicking has happened. I had also noticed a couple weeks ago that at stop lights, the a/c was blowing warm air even when on the coldest setting. The air would then become cold again after driving for about a minute. What could this problem (or problems) be and can I fix it (or them) myself?
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I have a 2011 Mustang base with the V-6 engine and 6 speed transmission. It is my summer car, getting fewer than 3,000 miles on it per year. I take very good care of it. My question is what is the mechanical knocking noise I am hearing on cold starts? It continues for about 5 minutes until the engine is fully warm, then stops. The noise comes from the valve cover area. It clearly is a noise that cycles with the movement of internal parts. Is it normal or could be something serious. The car only has 10,000 miles on it (it was sold in 2010 as a 2011 model, so it is 5 years old now).
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So I'm really good with pointing out cars and what engine they may have but im a derp when it comes to going under the hood. Right now I have a 2009 v6 mustang it probably doesn't matter for my question. This has been going on for awhile and I dealt with it cause I couldn't really hear with my music on. Whenever I push on the brakes to stop it makes a pretty noisy and annoying clicking noise until I stop. Not like that weird siren noise you can here from breaks but a click click click sound. What this might be? Brake calipers need a change or what? Last time I checked, probably last year, the brake calipers were still good.
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I have a 1995 Ford Mustang GT. I've had it for 4 years now, and the engine rattles mostly when the RPMs are between 1500 and 2000, just after pressing the gas. Sometimes it does it when the RPMs are higher, around 2500, and sometimes it does it regardless of RPM after I've been driving it for a long duration. It's done this since I bought it, so it's not a pressing issue, but I'd still like to get it fixed.
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I own a 2006 mustang v6 manual. I have never had a problem with my vehicle but my wife was hit from behind and now it makes a rattle under the car when I let off the gas or rev the engine. Well, tonight it worked fine on my way home but when I got back in the car to drive I noticed the car tach when I rev will not go over 4000 rpm and will bounce. When I drive it's like there is no power to accelerate (sputter cuts in and out) and I really can't go past 25-30 mph. After I reved the engine at the said 4000 rpm bounce for a few seconds there is a odor (unknown smell but almost a burnt smell)
The strange rattle metal sound Seems like it is coming from under the car about the drivers/passenger seats, but who knows. It's just my observation. Tranny is shifting into gears fine and idel is fine
I'm gonna look at it tomorrow. I need some direction on where to start
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I have a 98 mustang V6 that has developed a clicking problem. When I use the accelerator it will make a clicking noise. It is only there when I use the accelerator and u if I press down harder the noise is drowned out. I put the car in nuetral and also applied the gas to see if it depended on me moving or not and I still heard the clicking but it was a lot faster. It comes from under the hood area but I don't know where (as specific as I can get).
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17 year old gaskets. If I R AND R valve covers, will I be safe reusing VC gaskets?
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1999 f150 4x4 the wife used my truck and had to use the 4wheel to back the truck up, now the truck is stuck in 4low.
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My '05 F150 (92,000 mi) 4 wheel seems like it is engaging and disengaging when activated. Makes a clunking sound on light acceleration then quits when I back off the gas. Not sure if it is engaged then or not. I noticed this on a gravel road when I had turned 4x4 on to distribute oil around the system since I had not used it in a while. What it might be and if it is any easy fix or a trip to the shop.
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My '05 F150 (92,000 mi) 4 wheel seems like it is engaging and disengaging when activated. Makes a clunking sound on light acceleration then quits when I back off the gas. Not sure if it is engaged then or not. I noticed this on a gravel road when I had turned 4x4 on to distribute oil around the system since I had not used it in a while. What it might be and if it is any easy fix or a trip to the shop.
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My buddy and I just rebuilt a 4.2 V-6 and stuck it into a '97 F-150 RCSB 4x4 which somebody gave him. It had been sitting with a bum motor for about 7 years. While the engine was out, we also installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. We got the truck running yesterday by pull starting it (battery is not holding a charge).
The clutch does not seem to be engaging, as I had to pull the shifter out of gear so that the truck would not stall. The clutch does not seem to have a lot of pressure, but the slave cylinder is full. Is there a way to bleed these clutch systems? Is there anything else we should look at? I have not dealt with the M5OD before, and neither has he.
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1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
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