Ford - Mustang :: 1967 - Car Repeatedly Won't Start
Jun 24, 2013
I have a 1967 Ford Mustang. I drive in mainly on the weekends. The carb is rebuilt within the last six months. I installed a new alternator about a month ago. The battery was leaking and so the car stopped running one day. I just put in a brand new battery. It still won't start. It feels like it's trying to start but just won't turn over. I did clean the terminals and lubricated them as well when I installed the new battery.
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This car has me stumped I've got a 67 mustang that is overheating only while driving I've replaced the radiator new 180 thermostat facing the proper way bypassed the heater core replaced the head gasket flushed the cooling system but after running vehicle for ten to fifteen minutes one side of the block is reading 178 degrees the other side is reading 240 in lost.
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I have a 1967 Porsche 912. Today it was being a bit difficult getting fired up. Third time was the charm, but once in gear it had no power at all. The tachometer was around 3.5k in first before it even found the 10mph neighborhood ad took its sweet time to get there when shifting into second the car died. I turned her right around an put her to bed. I am thinking carburetor...
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I have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
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The engine cranks and tries to start when the battery is connected. It does this automatically, you don't even need the key or ignition to be turned on. The remote selonoid has been replaced so has the starter. The car does start and run when you let it but the starter remains engaged so its LOUD. I have bypassed the ignition switch by disconnecting it entirely, however the car still cranks and wants to turn on when the battery is connected.
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A cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
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I've had my car sitting for 3 weeks and went out this morning to start it and it turns over but won't start. It has fuel and the battery seems to be providing enough power to the starter. It ran fine 3 weeks ago and I have not done any repairs recently that would be cause for the problem, I also changed the oil a month ago.
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it's been parked for about 2 months in my driveway, which slants upwards. I cranked it for a solid 30 minutes (jumped the battery so it wouldn't die). I don't smell gas so I think gas isn't making to the motor.
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Purchased this car almost two years ago and it would typically start up no problems after sitting overnight or for a few hours. However, after running the car and then say turning it off to pump gas or just for a short stop, it never starts up right away. Just this week I had it taken to a friends repair shop (yeah, I know) and was told they moved/adjust distributor caps and checked carb and that they saw no other problems and they had it starting it up every time. They had suggested that what I needed to do was run the old gas (its only been sitting about 3 months) and keep running premium until we are certain that nothing remains in the tank except new gas, but assured me that the car was good to go and they sent me on my way.
Now, they didn't charge me, which is great, but I got what I "paid" for when I took the car out for about a 45 minute cruise, stopped for gas, and without fail the dang thing wouldn't start. A lovely citizen at the gas station raised the hood, fiddled with the carb, as he didn't think it was a battery issue, and was able to get the car going and get me home, but again, car wouldn't start about 20 minutes later. Hours later, out of curiosity, attempted and car started just fine.
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1992 Ford Mustang 5 spd 2.3l 4 cylinder. So a couple weeks ago, i got into my car and tried to crank it. I got one click then nothing. That's what I get whenever i turn the key. Not the repetitive clicking when the battery is low. After I found another ride home, I did some research and determined that it was probably the starter solenoid. I took a trip to Autozone and replaced the solenoid, but when i tried to crank it, one click then nothing. In order to get my car out of the school parking lot, I popped the clutch and got it running. Now, I'm stuck as to what the problem could be. I'm thinking it might be the starter itself, but it might also be the ignition switch.
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1993 5.0 mustang. The car wil start but will not stay idling. if the accelerator is gunned, it will run. The car has been tuned up (cap, rotor, plugs, air & fuel filter, also oil and filter). We thought maybe the fuel was old as it had been sitting for a few months so we drained out the old fuel and put in some fresh gas...Still the same issue. Got ahold of a fuel pressure tester from the loaner program at Autozone. The guy behind the counter looked up the spec and said it should be between 35 and 40 PSI. After putting the gauge on the Mustang, we got a reading of 30 PSI. Would this reading cause the current issue? Is a new fuel pump in this car's future?
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I have a '68 302 2 barrel carb Mustang and cannot get it to start! I have spark and I have gas getting into the carburetor. It turns but does not start. I'm at a loss and cannot figure out what to do.
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Simple question: Is it possible that battery problem/corrosion in battery cables would allow car to crank but not start on first try when cold? (Car normally starts on 2nd or 3rd try). I've read some places that if car cranks its not a battery problem but I'm not convinced.
Background:I have a 98 Ford Mustang (approx 140,000 miles) that occasionally has trouble starting. Car normally takes 2 to 3 tries to start first thing in the morning or if it has been sitting for a while. It always cranks but doesn't turn over. I had it in the auto repair shop, they said it had to do with IAC valve being stuck open. They recommended to replace throttle air by-pass valve. The repair was done and when I came to pick up the car I heard it take three tries to start before they brought it to me from the back. I asked about it, so the service advisor said he would go and talk to the tech, he said he talked to the tech and that there was a lot of carbon that he had cleaned out and maybe remaining carbon in the system caused problem, I got the idea that they seemed to think everything was fine if I had any problems I could bring it back. The car became even harder to start, now taking up to 8 tries. I brought it back and they said that the new IAC had to be adjusted to allow more air. I picked up the car, they said it was fine, but now it still takes 2 to 3 tries to start it first thing in the morning.
In the past, I have had trouble with battery and battery terminal corrosion, have had new terminal ends put on my battery a few times, last time was probably about 6 months ago. Terminal ends look very corroded again. I'm thinking about just asking them to replace the battery cables and see what happens.
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So 3 times in the last 2 days, my car has needed a jump start. Took it to pepboys and they told me to replace the battery, a new battery later, my car wouldn't start again and I needed to get it jump started again. Took it back to pepboys, they say everything checks out fine including the battery and the alternator and that it should work fine. This happens to be exactly what they said the last time.
The car is a 2012 Ford Mustang V6 convertible.
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My car sometimes shuts off when I attempt to start the car. I start the car, hear a loud click and the electricity to the entire car dies. No dome lights, no headlights, no radio. I disconnect the negative terminal and re-connect and all power comes back.
The weird part is, sometimes it DOES start. Sometimes it starts on the first try, sometimes I have to disconnect/re-connect 9 or 10 times before it'll eventually start. Once it starts it never loses power or has any issues. What could it possibly be?!
I've ruled out the battery, as it's literally brand new. The connections to the battery terminals seem VERY secure (I've re-done them a few times) and there's no corrosion at all. I sandpapered to be sure. I've also ruled out the fuel pump (obviously).
Could an aftermarket alarm system inherited from a previous owner be doing this? Could there be an issue with the starter? A connection issue elsewhere? Is there any way I can track down the issue on my own?
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Have 2000 V70 station wagon, non turbo. After filling it with gas it start only after pumping the gas pedal repeatedly. Than runs rough for 30seconds or so. Than runs great till the next fill up. Removing the gas cap doesn't cause the same problem. CEL is on. Code says gas/vapor recovery system has a leak.
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I have a 09 camry 2.4. I have a problem with it starting about 5 times a year. It will start and shut back off and just keep doing this or just crank over. Then if we let it sit for about 15 minutes it will start and be fine for months. It's been doing this about 2 years. It has about 104,000 miles on it and there has never been any lights come on like the check engine light.
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I love my '86 Mustang GT convertible. Currently at 106,000 miles and running strong. The problem is searching at idle. I have replaced every sensor that me and my mechanic can think of. New plugs and wires along with rotor and distributor cap. The engine will start searching, i.e. idling up and down, and at time stall. If I apply slight pressure and idle up to 1,000 RPM the searching stops. Hard to do sometimes as this is a stick.
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Have 2003 Honda Element. Beginning about 8 months ago I only drive it on weekends. I turn key, motor would crank, then die, crank then die. Maybe 5 times, then I would turn key and car would start without any problem. Went to dealership and they checked ignition system out found nothing wrong. Told me when you don't start everyday this sort of thing happens. Sounded like BS to me. Recommended I start it and drive a few miles every day. I began doing this did and starting much better. Now, occasionally, I will still have the same problem. Today I went to get Chinese takeout and I turned key and engine cranked weakly and then nothing. like no engine in car. Tried to start repeatedly and no response. Then I turned key again and engine started like new car.
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My 289 has had the following done: Rebuilt and cleaned the Carb, inside and out. Dropped the tank, acid bath cleaned and sealed Cleaned and restored the sending unit All new gas line filters (twice) for a total of 4 new filters, the gas is pristine by the time it get to carb. new points, new condenser, new plugs, new rotor... all gaped correctly (checked twice) new oil, new filter. Brand new fuel pump. Checked and Tightened and Re-Tightened all the bolts, plugs wire, bolts nuts.
The car will sit there and Idle if I don't touch anything, but stalls when I give it gas. I have also tried to check for vacuum leaks using both the carb cleaner way AND the propane method. Now I will say that both sides of my exhaust manifold pipes are falling off, slightly so it is hard to hear for vacuum leaks. Would that cause a car to stall? or Am I missing a very simple step?
67' Ford Ranchero (289 V8)
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I cannot find specs for Points on my truck. My dad use to set them using a match book cover. Not that talented! Should condenser automatically be changed with points. 352 engine FYI
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