Really annoying squeaks on one of the bushing areas. I understand these are known to go bad, and curious if there is any option other than lifting the truck off the frame? 2003 Moutaineer....
View 8 Replies2001 F150 2WD 4.6 102,000 miles.... All rotors and pads replaced by a shop and the trouble began. The shop swore it was my tires and like a dummie I took it to Sams and had my tires replaced.
What's been done? New BFG Long Trail T/A Touring Tires, rotors and pads were replaced a second time, new Monroe shocks and the shocks were replaced a second time, new U-joints, front wheel bearings repacked, ball joints inspected and have slight wear, new driveshaft at 20,000 miles, two new rims, two new back tires of same type, wheels balanced over and over with road force equipment. All this got rid of a dangerous shake at 67 mph but did not affect the 42 mph bounce.
I now have a pronounced bounce at 42 mph. I have an annoying vibration at 67 mph that is present 97% of the time and an occasional smooth ride for 3-4 miles on the interstate before the vibration resumes. The ride is always rough until the tires warm up. I think the vibration is caused by the road and the truck can't stop it, but I'm not sure. Three shops are scratching their heads.
I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
I have a 2001 F-150 Supercab with the V-6. This past weekend it developed some strange noise best described as a rattle or vibration that sounds like it is coming from under the driver's side dash possibly somewhere right behind the instrument cluster. May even sounds a little like a "grinding" noise - like two plastic gears not agreeing with each other, but I don't know of anything under there that could make that noise. I have opened the hood and listened from there with my wife pressing the gas to make the noise start, but can't hear anything from outside the truck.
It is not constant, but starts as soon as I give it a little gas, even before I put it in drive. It's a little worse when it is in drive. I have turned the air on and off, turned the steering wheel, pressed the brake, etc, and it doesn't appear to be related to anything obvious. I have stuck my hand under the dash and can't find anything obviously loose.
Okay so I have a 2003 F150 4x4. I think I might have a problem with my right rear shock because when I am driving slowly or get out of the truck, the rear end squeaks a little bit. But when I stand in the bend and jump up and down, it doesn't squeak at all. It's annoying and was wondering if there were any ways to diagnose this problem without buying new shocks?
View 7 RepliesI own an '07 SCrew with the 5.4L V8. The engine is very dusty and I want to clean it. Any best way to do this and any areas that I need to avoid getting wet..
View 5 Replieswe have a 2002 and 2003 trailblazer.
both of the trucks have a 'squeak' in the front end when traveling over a bumpy road.. any fixes.
I recently bought an 2003 manual transmission Cavalier which looks and drives great, albeit for one (hopefully minor) issue:
The front end repetitively squeaks like a squeaky toy (does not sound like metal-on-metal) when driving. The squeaking is not constant ("Squeak....") but has a rhythm (Squeak....Squeak...Squeak...Squeak...Squeak). The tempo of the squeaking increases the faster I go and appears to be loudest (or most annoying) around 30 mph. In addition, some bumps will cause the squeaking to occur, but the squeaking will return to its original rhythm immediately afterward. The squeaking sounds similar/equal distance whether I'm driving or riding in the passenger seat.
One of the things that kind of annoys me about the B7 is that none of the plastic storage areas are lined. Hence, whenever you put something in them it rattles around when you drive. I was searching the web for a solution and ran across this product: [URL]...............
It is a flocking kit.
92 PA Base
146,000 miles
I noticed that the coolant in the reservoir has been going low and I've been having to replenish it, in addition to the many different locations of small puddles of fluid under my car. Obviously there must be a leak somewhere. I conducted a pressure test on the radiator and detected a leak on a hose connected to the engine near the water pump was not tight. After tightening I pumped 16 lbs. of pressure and found the second leak; up between the rear valve cover and upper manifold.
My question is can coolant leak from the valve covers or is it coming from the manifold? I'm going to change the valve cover gaskets anyway since repairs need to be done in that area.
What are estimates if taken to a master tech: if manifold is leaking and replacing it along with the valve cover gaskets, or just replacing valve cover gaskets. Located in Indy.
Portions of my console have started to peel along with the driver side handles. Car had less than 20k miles on it when the peeling started.
View 7 RepliesMy Ex has a 4-inck Sky Jacker lift and I need to replace one of the sway bar end link bushing. Is the bushing size same as the stock ones? Need to know so I can order the right ones. What is the Energy Suspension part#....
View 1 RepliesMy Lexus 2013 navigation system seems to be less than reliable when it comes to finding shopping places and even other places. I was directed to a wrong place or residential area quite a few times with my nav system.
I rate the nav system as POOR in my Lexus, I am extremely disappointed and have to use a Garmin GPS to supplement the installed system.
One curious thing.... The software in dated 2011 and the car is dated 2013.
This has happened a few times in the last 3 months. Maybe I'm just beginning to notice or something is wrong with my Prius.
I put the brakes on and all of a sudden it's like I can't stop. Yesterday I thought I was going to hit someone. I have noticed that it is usually if there's a metal object on the street-- a railroad track or manhole cover.
So, I have a clunk that sounds like it's coming from the rear end, almost more of a knocking sound. It sounds to me like the driver's rear, but only hearing it in the driver's seat probably distorts my perception. The sound only occurs over bumps or uneven areas in the road. I've played with the end-links and they seem fine. I can't find anything visually obvious.
View 4 RepliesAny hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
2001 Ford Explorer Sport (not sport trac) 4.0l 5r55e 2wd.. Ok so I picked up a sweet deal of an explorer yesterday.
Sure enough I get her home and find out she needs both the rear body mount bushings replaced. Ok no sweat so I go to autozone...they cant find them... Ok I look in the book for replacement procedure... Nothing, To YouTube! ...nope nothing there either.
I am replacing my rear leaf spring hanger and shackle. I have one side done and the other side the old hanger is off. I am ready to install but the bolt/ bushing in the leaf spring will not come out. I tried every thing with what i had for about 2 hours. Is there a tool to remove these things similar to a ball joint press.
View 14 RepliesI made a thread in the F150 section but maybe it should have went here. Anyhow I'm replacing the front shocks on my 99 150, and well the bushing was completely seized up to the bolt on the bottom of the shock and I ended up breaking the one side of the shock mount off with it. I can't see any easy way of getting it off, I fear I might run into the same problem with the other side.
Would it be ok to just bolt the new shock back on, sans the forward mount? If its just bolted through the rear bolt hole will there be too much play? I really don't feel like replacing the whole lower suspension arm on this beater truck, and I dont think my welding skills are up to that. I don't think my little stick welder even has enough heat.
I replaced the radius arm bushings on my truck about a year and a half ago and about 6 months later I found that the nylon spacer on the driver's side cracked in half and only half remained on the truck so I replaced it (under warranty) and I found the same thing again today. I torqued it to factory specs and the passenger's side is fine. What gives?
View 4 RepliesAny noted 2.0T, B6 experience/solutions for squeaking/creaking suspension noises seeming to originate from shock/strut tower areas? I purchased new in 2009, 37K mi ago. VW dealer service persons think they hear it sometimes. Been chasing this problem for a year or more, mostly notable in cold weather. Condition evident driving on uneven pavement, dips in the road etc. Passengers ask "what is that squeaking".
View 7 Replies