My wifes 3V mountaineer has had a bad miss for a long time now. It seems fine until around 40-60 mph where it bucks and misses bad. I replaced all the plugs and it went away for a while but its back again. So far Ive replaced 3 of the coils with the accel coils but its just a shot in the dark really. Any easy way to check the coils or cylinder to see which one is truly the culprit?
View 9 Replies2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC, 138K miles on it. Runs like new. Except this butt problem since mid November 2010 (2 months) First time this happened it sounded like someone smacked the rear end with a 10 pound maul. BOOM! Was in blizzard conditions. Does it in AWD or 4WD. No tire slippage when it happened or happens. Only happens when:
1. Snowing good or in blowing snow from car ahead of me.
2. Not while accelerating or coasting.
3. In overdrive (not sure when in just third gear).
Had rear end inspected at Ford dealer and no issue was found. Complete driveline given clean bill of health. Dealer did PM of new lube and did the transfer case and front end at the same time as it was due anyway. After this, it usually (but not always) starts as an engine miss feeling and works it's way up to the sudden and violent "BOOM" and then a mixture. Anyway, did it again. Changed plug wires. Did it again. Tranny shop test drove while snowing - no root cause but certain it's not the tranny. Saw B1352 code and said take it to the dealer. Justanswer.com FORDEXPERT guy says B1352 is most likely the X-fer case shift motor. Inspected and replaced shift motor as it had signs of near death and on borrowed time. Did it again. Ford dealer Tech test drove while snowing and freaked out when BOOM happened. He's certain it's ignition. NO CODES!!!
Cylinder #3 (mostly) and cylinder #1 (little bit) showed slight ignition issues on diagnostics. Pinched clip in boot so they were tighter on plug and plugs were inspected OK. Sprayed water mist on coil and it's OK. Did it again. NO CODES!!! 70K on plugs so installed new plugs and second set of new plug wires thinking that RH tire is kicking snow on #1/2/3 plugs and causing short. Did it again. Tonight, when driving the last 10 miles in light snow with bucking 6 times, thinking it might be snow ingestion, I checked filter housing and I see just traces of snow in housing and snow packed into filter pleats at just one corner about 2" triangle. Still plenty of clean filter area I feel. (NAPA brand) filter is 6 months old and looks quite good. After reassembly, I feel around seam of housing and discover front seam not tight. Aha! Perhaps snow is getting into combustion chamber. Pushed in housing bottom and "thump" now it's tight and proper. Battery terminals tight and super clean. Dit it again but just once in 8 miles and was slight engine miss feeling - no buck or kick.
Other possibilities (I'm thinking):
Injectors?
main power to coil?
Is there are snow/dirt screen missing on tube into filter housing?
This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
View 10 Replies2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L DOHC - starts and idles fine. good power up to about 1800 rpm and then again above about 2100 rpm. Problem only exhibits under load (going up hill). Problem does not exhibit in low gears. No engine codes. Replaced TPS. Jumped out EGR to test it - still happened. I could be wrong, but I do not suspect fuel delivery or spark problems because the engine runs fine above 2100 rpm. So, basically I can start up a long hill and everything is fine until I get to about 40 mph (it's an automatic, but I think it's in third gear by now) then the car starts bucking (engine sputtering). But once I get through that, about 45 mph, it runs great - plenty of power, I can race it right up to 70 mph and beyond.
View 12 RepliesMy new-to-me 2001 Ranger 2.3L runs great except for this one problem: At under 2000 rpm, if I give the gas more than the gentlest tickle it misses and bucks until I back off. It also misses at idle. There is no CEL but I did pull a P0442 code which points to the evap purge valve. At above 2K rpm, it runs like a champ and I can floor it, except when under load such as climbing a hill.
Could this be the problem, or should I look elsewhere also? I'm not one to just throw random parts at a problem. The previous owner thought it was old gas or an injector, but I would expect it to run poorly all the time. The service writer at the Ford dealer thought it sounded like an electrical issue, but coil, plug wires and plugs are new.
Strange condition? If I kick it down hard into passing gear (or downshift hard into any gear for that matter), it pukes and sputters for a few seconds before clearing up and coming to life. No issues with normal driving, or dead stop hard acceleration, just on the downshift.
I’ve got a Magnaflow cat back on there and am wondering if opening up the exhaust and reducing the back pressure is screwing with the ECU a little? Is this just the nature of the stock Ford tune and it wasn’t as pronounced with the stock exhaust as it is now? Trucks an '06 FX4 5.4L and only has 70,000km on it.
My 2002 Ford Focus ZX5 has had a low idle (not unsteady) for about a year. Just thought I needed a tune-up. Recently, it started surging and bucking between 40 and 50 MPH. Seems to run fine under acceleration, but then when backing off the accelerator, it starts the surging/bucking. The check engine light is on constantly. A diagnostic pointed to the EGR valve, which I replaced, but it didn't solve anything.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Taurus and for all intents in purposes the car runs great, expect during a snow storm. I drive 30 miles on the hwy too and from work. During a snow storm no matter how bad or if snow is blowing or on the ground my car bucks. I don't know how else to explain it. It is like the transmission is slipping but I know that it isn't because it happens for only a split second. It almost seems like the car wants to shut-off or the brakes are grabbing. This will happen the entire way to work or home every few miles but only during a snow event.
View 5 RepliesTruck is 08' with 5.4, 3.55 gears, auto trans. 84k miles. Recently purchased from the TSA fleet trucks, so I have no clue what PM procedures were done prior to me getting it.
I noticed the following: when I get the truck into OD and then slowly decelerate (meaning I let it coast and im not braking) to about 40mph then get on the gas (normal acceleration) the truck bucks hard almost like when your spinning wheels on snow or ice and put the truck in 4wd and the front rear locks. or a limited slip rear that catches when one wheel is spinning.
if I accelerate hard the truck pushes thru it and doesn't buck as bad. I have searched this out and there are several threads about it that describe just about exactly what im talking about, the following have been brought up as possible problems:
1) bad spark plug/s and or coil/s
this seems to be the most common answer to the possible problem.
2)broke valve spring
3) bad torque convertor
So at 84k miles im thinking replacing the spark plugs would be fine to do as a PM. So coils.............should I just go ahead and replace them as well? I found them (motorcraft). does that seem right?
As far as spark plugs, I have already read the horror stories on the 04-08's breaking the plug in the head. I have also read that before 10/07 was the trucks that had the issue. my build date is 02/08. am I good to go with normal removal of the plugs? the best method I have read for removing them is spray carb cleaner down the hole and let it soak overnight and then the next day drive the truck get it nice and hot and remove them right after you park it,,,,
I have a 95 Ranger that when warmed up completely will buck when I let off of the gas. It is a 5 speed and this problem really only happens in 3rd gear and also have noticed it doesn't happen in 4WD. When the engine is cold and I am driving and let off the gas, the truck coasts smooth as silk and as it warms up, there becomes a louder thump when the gas is let off.
It will not do it all the time and it really only happens in third gear at low RPM's coming to a stop. I can give it gas and it picks right back up normally, so I doubt it is a misfire. Also since the truck is a 95 I do not have any CEL indicators, nor is there even a CEL light built into the dash in the truck. It isn't a huge issue because I am used to it and can drive it accordingly without having a problem.
2004 ford f250 superduty v10, truck has a cold run miss, no matter the temp. (0deg. or 100 deg.) when i start truck it misses for about a mile or so until temp. rises, after that it runs fine all day even if i park it for a few hours,next day same thing. I have changed all 10 plugs, gas filter, air filter, cleaned mpf censer, throttle body. Also it shows no codes, and there are no codes in history.
View 3 RepliesThe truck has a 300 straight 6 and runs pretty good until you turn the headlights on or anything that uses current for that matter ie. Radio , Fan ect. But is worst with lights. Just got the truck last week and can't seem to figure this one out.
View 1 Replies'03 6.0 Powerstroke. Rough idle AFTER it warms up. Runs fine cold. It seems to studder and miss at mid range acceleration. Egr deleted and new oil cooler installed. New lift pump. Replaced ICP sensor. Have 48.5 volts at the FICM. Replaced the fuel pressure spring to the blue one. All new filters. Does not smoke. Does not throw codes. I need to fix this truck one last time. It has a date with the bottem of a very deep lake! It has been nothing but a pos since it hit the ripe old age of 25k miles!
View 14 RepliesI've recently had a small issue with my truck missing under hard load. If you're going around 40 MPH and push it down like merging it will kick back and forth and sputter and then start hitting fine again after a few seconds and move on. Possibly bad sparkplugs and/or wires?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 3.0l ranger. I have been battling an ignition problem. every time the engine is cold it runs terrible like only 3 or 4 cylinders running terrible. if u put a timing light on the wires the pulse comes and goes on random wires. and when it quits that it has a random sputter at idle and misses around 4k when u get into the throttle ...
I have replaced plugs twice and the coil with motorcraft parts and the wires are new autolites. I have also replaced the thermostat and fan clutch it was getting hot in the middle of this other issue ...
Every time I replace something it runs great for a few days then back to running terrible again. am I missing something else do I need to look at a computer or map or tps sensors, or something like that ...
It just started doing it the only way I can seem to figure out how to explain it is at about 50 to 60 under slight acceleration or uphill it bucks or jerks like you have a trailer jerking. No check engine light this thing is driving me nuts... 2004 f150 5.4 ...
View 14 RepliesThe truck runs great when first starting up and driving, after 10 min a cylinder start to miss the same one ..
View 11 RepliesTook my 2011 F250 in to the dealer where I purchased it concerning intermittent misses on gear changes. The dealer had no history or knowledge of problems with shift flares. I was told they would check it out. Bottom line, their checking it out yielded no results, no action, and no "engagement", pun intended, to resolve a serious concern. How did others resolve the issue when it came up?
View 14 RepliesE 350 with a 5.8 drive ability headache 94 E 350 with a 5.8. about 1/2 throttle or under quick acceleration it bucks violently and will die if you don't let up on the throttle. This all started when it was run out of fuel. I found the condenser wire was shorted to its own body. Causing the PCM fuse to blow. I have since replaced the condenser. Same problem exists. I have replaced the map sensor with a known good one, same with the O2 sensor.
The TPS is in range and goes through its range smoothly (this was done on my scanner) Also replaced the fuel pump either due to the fuse blowing or running it out of fuel it wasn't working. Fuel pressure is 30 to 32 psi. I've checked the EGR for leaks and proper operation. I have noticed its very hard to start when its cold. Someone has had problems with it in the past as cat is new and i have noticed some things have been removed or replaced recently. The van was just purchased a few weeks ago by my buddy.
My 95 4.0 has had a periodic idle issue for quite a while. It seems it may be getting worse. Here is when it may only happen:
Vehicle is fully warm. I shut it off for about 1 hr or so and when I restart it, it shakes and misses in idle. It will idle fine after I drive it around or if I rev the engine for a while when still parked.
This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.
I am at a loss on what this could be. For the past 8 - 9 months my truck will randomly miss and if I am going slow enough it will cause the engine to quit but only when it is raining. I sometimes get a service light when it happens but as soon as i turn the key off and back on it goes away. My truck runs perfect otherwise and even when it rains except when it randomly does what I just explained.
This started when I replaced my passenger side valve cover gasket and I also took out my "brain box" (don't remember what it's called) and put it back in (didn't replace it). I did have the up-pipe replaced as well around the same time and put in EGT, boost and trans temp gauges. That's about the only things engine compartment wise that's been done.
I did just take it to a shop to put on a scanner and after his testing it did spit out 1 code. It was the cam position sensor. Can this sensor cause what I have explained? Like I said, this only happens when it rains. Doesn't matter if it's poring or barely sprinkling.