Ford - Mountaineer :: 2008 - Blower Motor Runs On Full Blast / Does Not Change Speeds
Nov 21, 2011
I have a 2008 mountaineer that the blower motor runs on full blast no matter what. The switch bars go up and down but blower motor does not change speeds. also upon opening the hood I found 2 large mouse nests ,1 on passenger side fender and 1 center of engine towards the back. Are these related or could it be a switch issue. How to remove switch and test it.
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I was driving today and at a traffic light a severe smell of burnt plastic filled the cabin and the A/C blower started to change speed than stayed at full blast and even if I'd turn the knob from side to side or tried to shut everything off with the ""OFF""button nothing would happen........so we drove home and at some point it shut itself off...tried it again and seems ok now.....every dealer closed today and leaving for the USA tomorrow morning.... What the problem could be?
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I noticed that I have an unusual "rumble" noise coming from the location of my ac blower motor when it kicks in full blast. When the air temp comes down a bit and the AC slows down or if I switch the ac off full blast under climate control, the noise goes away. I have never noticed this before and am wondering if it is my ac blower motor starting to fail.
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I have a 2006 Sonata and just a few weeks ago the AC/Heater Blower would only work on full blast. You actually had to have the control set a little before the full setting to get it to come on. Both the heat and the AC worked. Now, nothing is coming out on any speed setting. I've replaced the blower resistor and checked the fuses/relay and they seem fine.
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Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
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My blower motor runs with the key out on all speeds in my excursion. Replaced blower relay in hood fuse box. NO FIX. As I move climate selector to off and turn key to acc. and off it will turn off the blower. If I turn the selector to any position such as vent or heat with the key out, blower runs thus drains the battery. Do I have to replace the whole climate pod?
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I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy and I am having an issue with the blower motor. Speeds 1 and 2 do not seem to work. Speeds 3 and 4 work fine. This is the manual climate control not the automatic. I searched and it seems everyone usually has a problem with the high speeds & not the low speeds...
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How to replace a blower motor in a 1990 Audi 80 Quattro? I looked for a Chilton and I looked online but couldn't get any info. Actually they don't make a Chilton for Audi during this year. And I couldn't locate any Haynes manuals either.
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I own a 99 Suburban 1500 5.7. The front blower motor stopped working on all speeds so I replaced the resistor, it still did not work. I then replaced the speed selector switch and it started working fine. Three days later I smelled a slight electrical burning smell and the fan stopped working again. I plan on replacing the switch again to see if that is what went bad. Whats causing this to happen? Maybe the motor is going bad and causing the switch to short?
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How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
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Our 03 Civic recently went into the shop for a rotor replacement and the shop did an oil change for us while they were at it. My wife got the car back and she immediately noticed that the "AC" wasn't working. After asking a few additional questions (I'm not in the same city this week), it isn't the AC that isn't working, the fan/blower isn't turning on at all. We had the same shop check it out again and their response was that they weren't anywhere near the blower motor so this just has to be a coincidence. I could accept that but I'm still worried about a scam.
The car was in the shop just to have the rotors put on, not an oil change but they did an oil change for us anyway. (I was going to change the rotors myself but I couldn't get the caliper hangers off and it was 100+ degrees outside so I decided to have the shop mess with it), Would it be easy to sabotage the blower motor on this car?
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My heater and a/c on my car have been acting up!
Yesterday I got into my car I turned on my heater and it didn't work! So I pushed the a/c button and that did nothing either! No air came out of the vents at all even on full blast... So I tried turning it off and back on and nothing happen then it finally worked but when i tried to turn it off it wouldn't turn off then randomly turned off by its self!!!
Whats going on and what I should check for this problem ?
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My dad's 1993 Lincoln Town Car runs great but the fan for heat or AC only will run at full blast or nothing. Makes it difficult to drive when it's real hot or cold out. Can this be remedied without costing an arm and a leg? The car is 21 yrs. old and not worth a lot.
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Blower Motor quit, dual zone climate control system. AC will work with Recirculation mode off. Just won't blow.
Turned heater on still won't blow. Pulled and checked the following fuses: 37; 45, 37 & 15 which pulling these 3 reset the system; and pulled 24 in the battery junction box. Still not working.
Next plan is to pull Relay #1 from the battery junction box and apply 12v to see if it clicks - no click & then I'll replace it.
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The blower motor went out on my 2008 F-350,? I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it out. Do I have to remove the dash? I am positive it is fried, I ran a hot wire straight to the motor and it still wouldn't come on.
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The heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
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My Prius' battery died this week after a respectable 163731 miles. I barely got it to the dealership . It was sluggish, engine racing, one purple bar and the battery fan was going full blast. It totally freaked me out.
21 working days for battery from Japan. I've been expecting it. I figure I can then drive the car for another couple of years.
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Lately, I've noticed that when I start the car in the morning, the radiator fans come on at full blast, even though it's around 20 degrees F (not all the time, but most days). My temperature gauges all show (what I assume are) correct temps as it starts out cold, water first goes to 200 and stops, then oil slowly climbs and stops at 200 I believe.
They don't climb any faster or slower that I've seen, and usually by the time I get to work (around 20 minutes), the oil temp has probably climbed about 3/4 of the way to normal while the water is steady at 200.
Is this normal? I don't recall this happening, as I would've noticed as the fans are quite loud at full blast. I haven't had a chance to run a diagnostic scan yet, but the car hasn't warned me of anything either.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Forester with 88k on it. I bought it with about 70k on and have been doing a lot of the services myself.
I change the oil religiously. I recently changed the thermostat on the car, cleaned out the reservoir and now the car has new antifreeze. The reason I did this was because cars cooling fan is always going at full blast. This only started about 6,000 miles ago. So since it was a easy job I figured change the thermostat. I am in NY and it has been very cold out, but with my 10 mile commute to work by the time I pull into the parking lot the cooling fan is very loud and the noise is very noticeable.
I recently drove up to go skiing, ( the temp outside was 9 degrees) I was on the interstate going about 70 to 77 mph because the car was going uphill and the incline was significant , I would push more on the gas pedal and I would see the thermostat on the dash going up very closely to the red mark. I pulled over a few time, the fans were at full blast.
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My Blower motor is intermittently going on and off. After messing with it for a while it seems to stay on. Motor may be going out. Not real easy to change the blower motor on this 2008. Haynes manual says to take the 2008 and up trucks to the dealer.
2008 F250 4DR 5.4L
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Only 2 speeds of the 4 speeds are working on my blower. I was thinking it may be the switch, but someone at the shop told me to replace the blower resistor first. I did that and still only have 2 speeds. Im guessing I need to replace the switch now?
Also, I am having problems with my heat adjustment. I have it set to warm (half way between cold and hot) and out of the blue it will start blowing hot. I turn it down all the way to cold until it blows cold air and turn it back to warm, and it will be fine for a few minutes and start blowing hot again. Vacuum problem? blend door problem? How would I go about trouble shooting this problem?
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