Ford - Mountaineer :: 2007 - Transmission Lines Removal?
Oct 26, 2016
OK, replacing the radiator in my 07 Mountaineer. Watched the U-tube video and purchased the sprecta model recommended. Instead to messing with the release on the lines I opted to remove the nut from the radiator. Easy enough, everything going well until I find that the new fittings on the Spectra are a different size. Now I have to remove the lines from the old connect. Bought the Lisle 39660 tool for Ford lines. I've been fighting with them most of the afternoon. I cannot get them off, tool slides in all the way, won't budge. How to get them off, I don't give up easy....but, all my knuckles are banged up.
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How the seatback comes off of the 3rd row seat on an '02? There is a spring or something protruding from the seatback on the right side towards the bottom. I'm afraid it's going to stretch or poke a hole in the leather. I think if I can get the back cover thing off I can reach up under and fix it. I don't know if it's a spring our of place or what.
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How to remove this thing????
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I am working with a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with rear heat/ac, sunroof, and Homelink. I need to remove the overhead console to replace burned out map lights. I cannot determine how to remove the console.
The shop manual has instructions for 2 styles of overhead consoles but not the one in this vehicle. Those 2 styles have a sun glass or garage door opener compartment that you open to access some screws.
This console has the map lights at the front, the controls for the rear ac/heat in the middle, and a panel for the sunroof switch and Homelink buttons at the rear. There is no room for a compartment that opens.
I can get the front portion loose by pulling it down off the clips. The back seems to held in by screws. I do not want to apply much force to avoid damaging anything.
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Truck has been neglected for a while so this upgrade/repair I installed Powerstop brake rotor, caliper, bracket and pads. New Timkin wheel bearing, Moog U-Joints, and new inner/outer axle seals. Also replaced all the brake hoses and the remaining original rusty brake lines. About a month before I replaced the failed Auto/Manual vacuum operated locking hubs with Mile Marker units, which do not need the vacuum line, the drivers side was missing. and was letting water into the wheel bearing. So I decided to plug them and remove the vacuum lines from under the hood as well.
If there is interest I can get pictures of the vacuum lines, and what I changed under the hood. That was pretty self explanatory.
Could not find a google search for the thread size of the vacuum nipple in the knuckle. It is a 3/8"-24 fine thread.
[URL]
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I bought an aerosol can of transmission flush to flush out the cooler lines in my Ranger before I put the "new" transmission in.
Well, the can says it has a 5/16" female fitting on the tube "to fit most common transmission cooler lines" but my truck has what I believe are 5/8" fittings (the tube nuts on the cooler lines were a 5/8" hex). The fitting on the can tube ALMOST threads over the flared end of the tube, but not quite (I just want it on there so stuff won't spray all over).
Went to the parts store, found an 5/8" female flare to 1/2" male flare and that was the closest I could find. I'll take it home tonight and see if it fits. They had almost nothing for a 5/16" flare.
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i have a 97 mountaineer v8 aod,for the last 2 winters transmission slips when cold out on the highway, only when temp outside gets 30 or colder, pull over let it run 5-10 min runs great at 65 for about 8-10 miles then same thing, I put new filters twice and new fluid,i have put over 40,000 miles on it since it started doing this, it doesn't do this in the summer...
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I have a 2003 mountaineer 4.0 awd, and recently the tranny went out. I have since located a 2004 ranger 4.0 4x4 that I can pull the transmission from if it will work. Swap like this will work, can I use a 5r55e in place of a 5r55s?
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I have a 99 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 (143K) and having some issues with it. O/D light is flashing once in awhile so decided to check the codes.
- P07401 (Torque converter)
- P1728 (Transmission slip)
The truck shift fine and no having really issues when driving even if there is a weird noise around 70mph.
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06 6.0 How do I remove the trans cooler lines from under the truck? I've got the lines hanging free they're unscrewed from the transmission and trans filter but I can't seem to snake them out to replace them. How is this accomplished?
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I have a 2003 mountaineer v-6 awd drives pretty good but od light is always flashing even if ignition switch is open and truck not started..and check transmission on message display also..the only thing that i feel its really tight on turns as if it wants to lock up but once steering gets straight it runs fine... I know that a regular scanner cant pull codes I got to go to transmission shop but chances are there gonna tell me its trans time....
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Can I change these out to hydraulic hoses with clamps that are rated for the fluid. Mine are rusted and starting to leak.
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I have a 02 f350 4x4 6 SPD one of my transmission lines has went bad is there anywhere that sales them.
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2012 F-350 King Ranch Diesel. I am eventually going to purchase a camping trailer to pull with this rig. I am thinking of bypassing the radiator with my transmission coolant lines. I did this on another vehicle and it worked GREAT! That vehicle was a 2001 Isuzu Trooper with that crummy 4L30-E transmission. My trans temps stay round 170 to 175 on the freeway which is far better than the 190 to 200 range that GM says they will run. At any rate, 2011-2017 F-250 to F-350 applications? I was thinking of adding a filter or two with a fan-cooler from B & M Racing Equipment.
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My mom just got a 2007 mercury mountaineer. Its an overall great vehicle. better than her corolla she had. But theres one problem. when it rains really hard, it leaks in the overhead light above the rearview mirror. We think it has something to do with the sunroof. and It leaks around the back glass. Not sure what is causing that.
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Have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer with power 3rd row seats that have only worked several times, bought vehicle new, can hear motor running but seats do not budge..
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I have a transmission cooler attached to my transmission. The lines that connect it are leaking around the crimp fittings. I figured if i just cut the fittings off and used 3/8 fuel line, would i be ok. I am afraid that i might get some air into the lines and mess my transmission up...
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1999 Ford Explorer XLT 6 4.0l SOHC. Is there any practical way to remove the transmission pan and maybe the valve body without removing the catalytic converter that is right under it?
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This morning opn my way to work, ny nav screen suddenly developed quarter inch vertical lines in my screen. Apparently this can be a navigation software issue. The screen itself is fine, as I can bring up other screens onto the display. Just not nav, audio and I forget which others. The "Disp" screen and the "menu" screens come up no problem.
I haven't checked fuses yet, but this seems a little coincidental that it started a few days after installing my ivic-d module.
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I have a '06 Mercury Mountaineer, right over 100,000 miles. For the past few months the car has started to make a sound and even produce an "clunk" that I can feel when I am slowing down to come to a stop. It only happens when I slow down to around 3-4mph or slower. The transmission has only around 10,000 miles on it. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer with 150K+ miles on it. Lately the transmission seems "rough" as in it seems to 'thud' randomly when I step on the gas while cruising. I think it's trying to change gears, but I'm not sure. It runs okay, but I feel like I should start thinking about rebuilding the transmission. I have access to a full set of tools and mechanics on hand and about a weeks worth of time. Think I can do it?
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