Ford - Mountaineer :: 2004 - Lost Front Differential Twice In Two Months?
Jul 19, 2014
So back in mid May while driving the inlaws back from the airport in our newly aquired 2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6 AWD with 100K on the clock, I started to hear a high pitched whine. Stopped at the rest area and found gear oil coating the underside of the car. It was coming from the differential vent. Long story short, the axle came off where it was supposed to be in the differential and cratered it. Got it repaired through the extended service plan I had gotten with the vehicle. Fast forward to today. About 70 miles from home again at highway speeds I hear the same whine and see smoke, pull over, same oil. Get towed back to the same dealership from the previous time and its sitting in their lot til they can look at it on Monday or Tuesday. Fortunately the dealership does warantee their work and parts so it should be covered, its just frustrating.
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Working on a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L. No 4x4. Replaced both IWE front actuators. (Neither one would hold vacuum). Still no 4x4. I realize I have vacuum issues and may be excessive wear on gear teeth of the front wheel bearings. The issue that really bothers me is the front differential. Having placed the truck on jack stands and running in 4x4 should both front wheels be turning ? The right front wheel turns and the left front does not move. Is this normal or should I pull the front differential cover off ?
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My front differential is leaking. Are there any special Ford tools required to replace the seal? Or is it simply bolt (and fluid) removal, seal replacement, fill with new fluid. Any tips or heads-up on this?
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On the way into town, leaving a intersection lost all forward movement coasted to a parking lot. second gear would hold, drove home about six miles. When home put into reverse hear it go into gear , but slip. All other forward gears same, hear go into gear but slip, except second would hold. I think low fluid, or mechanical problem about 155000 miles. 2002 Mercury Mountaineer.
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2006 F150, SuperCrew with 5.4
I just replaced the firewall actuator valve for the hubs, and went to try out the 4 wheel drive. The hubs engage and lock to the axle shaft, the transfer case engages and locks to the front driveline, but the front differential isn't doing anything. Is there an actuator for the front or did something break inside?
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Looking to change out my front differential cover tomorrow, cover is pitted, rusted, corroded, and leaking at the seals. While under there I want to inspect the vent for the axle and differential (and replace if it's clogged - which I believe is leading to the seal leaking). Looking for info about the vent tube location on the front axle? Thought I read somewhere it was on the cover itself, turns out that's a negative.
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I seem to have oil leaking from my front differential. The oil seem to be leaking from where the axle comes out of the differential.
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My girlfriends son and friend were driving my girlfriends 05 mountaineer when all of a sudden they lost power to windows, gas gauge, radio and map lights. After doing some research, fuse # 17 is blown and keeps blowing when trying to change. I believe it has to do with Battery Saver Relay. All other fuses are fine. Multiple websites says to start disconnection everything running on that fuse.
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We have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
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I have a 2001 AWD Mountaineer with 5.0 engine and 183,000 miles. A little over a year ago a harsh clunking noise started coming from the front. It was obvious that it was coming from one of the drive component because the noise and harshness changed with speed. At slow speeds it was clunking with every revolution of the wheels. The intensity seemed to change with the direction of the wheels also. I figured it might be a CV joint and proceeded to check them out. None appeared to be bad, but with the mileage on the car I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace the axle shafts, so I started with the left (driver's) side which is where I felt the noise was coming from. The noise went away and I was happy. To my surprise about 6 months ago the same noise came back. This time I replaced the right side axle shaft. Again the noise went away.
Unfortunately the problem hasn't gone away though. A couple of days or a couple of weeks may pass with no problem, but then suddenly it starts again. I took it to a trusted mechanic when it was making the noise. It was so loud when I pulled into his driveway that he stopped what he was doing to look. But, when he took it for a drive it was as quiet as the day I bought it in 2001. I also talked to the service people at the local Ford dealer and they told me that there was basically nothing they were aware of that could cause this problem, but to bring it in the next time it did it and they would check it out. At this point I almost want something to fall out of it. At least then we'll know where the problem is.
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looking to replace the front wheel bearings on my 06 Mountaineer. Detroit Axle? I found them on both ebay and amazon and prices almost seem too good to be true (under $100, 12 month warranty).
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The front seat headrests feel like they need to be reclined, but they are fixed in position. I thought I would get used to them, but I always feel like my head is pitched forward a little too far. Any aftermarket headrests?
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Looking for a diagram that breaks down the front axle components of a 1997 mercury mountaineer? I believe my drivers side ball joint is shot because it makes a thumping sound whenever it goes down the road and the wheel has a lot of play in it.
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I have a 2010 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 47k miles. On acceleration there is a hum/vibration in the steering wheel and the gas pedal between 30-50 mph. This is my third Mountaineer and I have never noticed it on the others, I just got this one about 2 months ago. The others were V6 models but were AWD. When I turn the 4x4 to the lock mode there are various noises/vibrations coming from the front of the car while it accelerates and also when turning.
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I am looking for 2002 explorer XLT front differential diagram.
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Thought I would try and fill up the front. Diff well not as easy as the rear diff. They make a special hose or some thing. To put in the bottle so u can get some Gear oil in ?
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My front diff is busted, and I mean bad.. I can barely even run the truck 5mph, and it's very loud. The diff casing is even busted. I want to just disable it to drive in 2wd. What's the easiest way to do it? It won't disable using the push button control.
Can I just remove all the locking stuff in the front wheels, so there's nothing for the axles to grab on, and manually turn the solenoid at the transfer case to shut off the front wheel axle?
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I have some pretty bad grinding/growling in the front of my 2005 Explorer XLT 4-door. It is ABSOLUTELY NOT a wheel bearing. The noise seems to be coming from the front left wheel, and you can feel it when turning the hub by hand. I've changed that hub twice now (took a chance that the first one was defective), but neither made any difference. Both were torqued to 184 FtLbs per spec.
I took the outboard end of the left front cv shaft out of the hub and turned it by hand, and something at the inboard end felt crunchy. So then I pulled the shaft out and checked it over, and both sets of splines and CV joints are good. Axle shaft bearing in the differential looks good too---rolls well and no visible damage to the rollers. I'm thinking that it's got to be something in the front differential like a carrier bearing. The odd thing is that when I drove it with my Chassis Ear tool hooked up underneath, the noise was picked up at the left front knuckle, with nothing really audible from three different points on the differential case. I'm stumped on this.
Is there any safe way to drive the vehicle with the front CV shafts pulled? I'd like to isolate the front diff to be sure it's the source of the noise.
The noise does quiet way down in right turns, but the FR hub bearing was pretty quiet with the Chassis Ear hooked up. The noise starts at 20mph and dissipates above 45mph. Not like what the bad bearings on my Escape did...those just kept getting louder.
Are these Explorers known for front diff weaknesses? How can I find out what gear ratio I have, in case I decide to replace the whole unit (a used one is half the price or less than the rebuild quote I was given by a local shop).
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2000 Excursion, Limited, 4X4, 6.8L, V10. My right front inner differential seal is leaking. I have researched and found out that I have to remove the pumpkin gear assembly from the front differential to get at the seal.
Do I need any special tools to get the seals seated back into the differential? Any instructions or a list of parts needed?
I went to fordparts.com and entered my vin number but it makes no reference to the parts of the front differential only the rear.
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I just acquired a 2007 Ford explorer. I'm in the process of changing all the fluids and am wondering if there is room to pull the front differential cover off to clean the gunk out of the bottom of the front differential. It looks tight and I'm wondering if the differential or the steering rack and pinion need to be removed to remove the cover or if there is just enough room?
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I recently replaced my front door speakers in my 2005 RX330. Upon reassembling everything I had the following issues:
1) The front Passenger side window and rear seat windows would not roll down from the driver's side controls. This issue was resolved by going to each individual window control and rolling the window down halfway and then rolling them all the way up and continuing to press on the window control in the "Up" position for an additional 5 seconds or so.
2) My original Lexus key (non-remote) would work for staring the car, but it would no longer work to unlock the doors by inserting it into the Driver's side door lock and moving the key toward the front of the car.
3) In attempting to resolve issue #2, I disconnected the Car battery for a couple of hours and reconnected it, which leads me to my big problem(s). Now none of my windows will roll down from ANY window control (including the front door driver's window). In addition, the doors can only be locked/unlocked from the Lexus Key Remote or from the front Passenger door lock control.
I have checked all fuses that I could get to (under the hood and under the drivers side dash panel) but I still cannot get the windows or door locks to function normally. I could not get to one big blue fuse under the dash panel right next to the fusebox that I believe is related to the power windows. I am not sure if it also fuses the sunroof, which DOES function. I pulled the Negative Battery cable off a second time and did another reset but to no avail.
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