I recently picked up a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer, 4.0 with 113,000 miles. OBD reader says misfire on 3 cylinders.. Installed new plug wires first.. nothing.. going to install plugs next when she is cold. Now, am I really looking at replacing the coil pack to end the misfire codes? She likes to buck and shake and idle around 400 rpms.. I know that is too low..
View 4 RepliesI have a 05 gli I just put a k04 turbo on. It runs on stock ecu but I have been told that's not the problem. When I start the car the rpm's spike to around 3 grand then slowly drop to normal idle rpm's when it gets under 1000 rpms the car starts to shake and idle hard. Idk what it is Cel is on and read misfires in 3 of 4 cylinders but checked plugs and everything they r fine. I'm thinking maybe vacuum leak or something along those lines.
View 6 RepliesAfter scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
View 8 RepliesI do not know the 5.4l 3v as well as my last 360ci dodge. It's a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4, got it cheap, and it's got issues. Got codes for misfire on cylinders 4 and 5 and Coil 'D' circuit malfunction. Obviously it has codes for limited power as well. was wondering how cylinder numbering goes and what coil is 'D'.
View 6 RepliesI have a buddy at work who has an 04 f350 6.0 that is running very rough. we put a scanner on it and disabled the injectors and 1,7,8 have no change. He checked the FICM voltage and is getting 48 volts on crank and run. He checked the wiring for anything loose or rubbed but nothing seems wrong.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 F150 5.4 and I recently got a p0175 code. I've replaced the M.A.F. sensor, fuel injectors, fuel filter, new plugs, coils and checked the vac lines but I'm still getting a p0175 code. Ive reset my P.C.M. and the code stopped for 2 weeks but returned later. The truck runs fine when I erase the code but when it returns it hesitates on take off and has a slight shake like a misfire and it makes a bubbly popping sound from the exhaust. Im at a loss of what to do next! Could this be a code stuck in the P.C.M.? My mechanic thinks it may be the cam phasers!
View 5 RepliesI have an '04 Subaru Forester which sputters and stalls after fill up. It sends error codes for cylinders 1, 3, & 4 misfiring...I only have a 4 cylinder car - This only started Friday - a few days later and I'm really getting desperate. I screw my gas cap on, we check the connections...and we've read all kinds of random solutions that spread across the board.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
I am getting P0355 error code and potential misfire codes on all cylinders. Engine light and VSC stays on now. Idle is unstable and power is a little jerky at times. I bought a Denso direct ignition coil to replace, however, Cyl 5 looks difficult to access.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 RX350 with 68k on the clock. Received a check engine light for random misfire (P0300) and misfire on Cylinder 4 (P0304), Cylinder ,5 (P0305) ,Cylinder 6 (P0306). Question is what will be causing this to happen. I thought about changing the spark plugs to see if this is possibly the cause. but what else should i be checking?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
2003 F250 crew cab 6.0 ... Where are the main problem areas on the ficm wiring harness truck will start and run great at times and at times it just start and misfire lope jump and buck it has to be a short I've changed the icp and crank / cam sensors some days it runs fine had issue with alternator replaced it.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford F150, king ranch, 4x4, super crew 135k miles. I bought the truck and shortly after noticed the miss under a load at 40-60 mph while in OD, or at higher RPMs at WOT, but never a CEL. Well 3 months went by and I couldn't take it anymore so with lots of research I decided to change the plugs. Ran seafoam through 2 tanks of fuel prior to this job to break up the carbon in hopes of none of the plugs breaking.
All 8 plugs came out with no issue and I replaced them with the Motocraft SP 515s (old ones were very nasty and brittle, most likely the original). I put copper anti seize on the end that goes through the channel in the head, however none got on the end near the electrode, and also on the threads. Put it all back together and it had the worse misfire an pretty much not drivable....flashing CEL and codes p0308, p0355, p0356. So I decided to buy 8 new coils as well, got all 8 of them on and now the truck is drivable but the miss is still there (no CEL).
Feels like maybe just one cylinder and I believe I got it pin pointed to cylinder 8. I put a vacuum gauge on it and unplugged the injectors 1 at a time and cylinder 8 is the only one that there is no change while unplugged. So I switched out the coil thinking maybe I got a bad one, still does it. My COP electrical plug has 12v Constant and also confirmed with an led it is getting signal. The injector is ticking or pulsing as i confirmed with a mechanic stethoscope. What am I missing????? Today when I get off I plan pulling the spark plug, checking for carbon tracking, check compression, check actual visual spark, and pull and clean the injector.
My 97 F-150 has 208,000 miles on the original engine. It started misfiring originally on just 2 cylinders, 1 and 8, after pulling the codes. I also get a P0420, catalyst system below threshhold bank code being thrown, but I think it is because of the misfires.
To remedy this I've done the following:
1. Spark plugs are relatively new and were changed completely a few months prior to issues.
2. Coil Packs were changed on both sides. Additionally, Cylinders 1 and 8 are on separate coil packs.
3. Spark Plug wires were changed
4. Did a resistance test on each fuel injector and they all passed.
None of this has worked. Am I missing something obvious? From my friends I've heard everything from my exhaust is plugged to I need to change all my injectors. Injectors are costly and I'm not even sure how to check if my exhaust is partially plugged, but it seemed to be flowing fine. Also, I pulled plug one since it was simple to get to and noticed it was slightly brown, like it had oil on it.
I got frustrated and continued driving my truck until the problem degenerated into severe misfiring and now I cannot get it started at all (Wrong move). I bought a car and haven't drove it since, and have it sitting behind my house. Now the cops want to tow it because the registration is has expired so I've decided to move it into my garage so I can work on it. Part of me wants to junk it, but I've put a lot of time, money, blood, sweat, tears, and curse words into this truck and am motivated to get it back up and running since the transmission and front suspension had been replaced recently.
What to do!?!?
1. Go to the Ford dealership and have them diagnose the issue and then try to fix it? (I have little confidence in them from the stories I've heard)
2. Pull the engine, tear it apart, and rebuild it?
3. Drop a used/rebuilt engine in?
4. Call me crazy and say junk the truck and buy a different one?
Currently leaning towards option 3...
98 5.0 last week i was driving around for a few hours and everything was fine. Did some work in the garage for a few hours and had to run to the hardware store. Started the truck up and she ran like crap. Engine shaking like a misfire. First thought plugs and wires. Well by then it was late and Easter was the next day didn't get to it till Monday. Well after the change still crappy running.
So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the mass air. No change. Checked for spark on the coil packs all have spark. Checked the PCV all good there. Checked for vac leaks none found. During that I noticed a small hole in the EGR tube I repaired that but still running like crap backfiring out the exhaust, engine shaking badly at times. I also changed out the FPR on the fuel rail. No change of course.
As of today I changed the coil packs. Again no change. Only code it throws is a EGR high flow after I fixed the hole but was having problems before that.
I started out with misfires in cylinders 1 and 7. Replaced all spark plugs (used autolites, i know i know). While replacing them I found that the boot on coil 8 was beat up with a chunk missing. It was working before I replaced plugs. After I changed everything out the 8th quit working completely and I still had a miss in cylinder 1.
Replaced coils on both of those and put a new wire connector on for 8th cylinder because it no longer clicked in correctly anymore. Truck runs infinitely better than it did prior to this, but according to OBD2 I still have misfires in 1 and 8.
Mostly in the 50-60mph range. What else could be causing this??? Injector maybe or is there some other sensor or timing problem? My dad has a compression test kit, but he lives several hours away so I can't just get to that right away.
I've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
I have an old 2000 Ford Taurus that has been having some misfire issues. I replaced the wires and plugs about a year ago and hooray! it worked... until about a month ago when the check engine light came one. Misfire in cylinders 1 and 3... again. I ran some SeaFoam through and it did okay until this week, when the warning/flashing check engine light came back.
It is idling very hard (expected) and feels like it is trying to stall, even before the misfire came back (also to be expected??). So here is the question: is this a coil pack issue, or something more sinister (and expensive)?
My wife and I received her father's 2002 F150 4.2 5 speed 2 wheel drive truck after his passing. He purchased new plug wires and wanted to replace them. So, this weekend I put in new plugs, plug wires, changed the air filter, and changed the oil and filter. Started up and ran really rough. Threw my code reader on after taking it around the block and found the following codes...
P0316 Misfire detected in first 1000 revs,
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire,
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire,
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire.
New plugs were Motorcraft plugs, but had skinnier center compared to the ones that came out of truck.
Where do I start? What do I do? I am really confused as I have changed plugs and wires before and always had vehicle run better or same as before change.
Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
I've got a problem with my '96 Tbird that's really stumping me. It started with a little shake when I gave the car gas. I don't know if it's related, but I ran over some debris on the highway at around 70mph. [No chance to avoid, unfortunately] That same day it felt like the car was missing, and throughout the week it got worse and worse. It would shake harder and faster with increased RPM's. By the end of the week, it was so bad I kept the car off the road.
I thought it was a bad misfire, so I changed the plugs, then the wires, then the EGR and EGR solenoid [from JY] and swapped a coilpack from my other car. It ended up being the harmonic balancer, it spun a 180, not a surprise on an 18 year old car. I've never had one go bad, so I didn't even think of that as a possibility with the way the car felt. [I've been working on cars for a long time.] It never threw a code once, so I had nothing to go by to begin with.
So over the weekend I swapped out the balancer, and buttoned everything up. Ran fine! No shake! But then I had gotten a new problem.
The idle started to get bad. Very bad. It would lope, lope then almost try to stall, especially when the fans kicked on or I put it into gear. Since this car is my daily driver, I had it at work while I started to undo the new stuff I put on it. I started with the just unpluging the battery for 3 hours. Didn't work. So I pulled the new plugs, reverted them back to the old ones. It didn't work. Leaving work that day I noticed if I pull the IAC connector, the idle smooths out some, but it doesn't stall. [Suspect, maybe?]
So I figured it was the EGR, or solenoid, so I changed them both out. Nothing worked, still was horrible. Frustrated I changed out the coil pack and wires. It's still horrible.
I don't drive the car now, it stalled out a few times in traffic on the way back before I swapped everything back out.
The icing on the cake is that it has not thrown a single code except for when I unplug the IAC. And the only code it throws is barking at me for doing so.
It really feels like a bad vacuum leak. I've run down every single line and there's nothing leaking or rotten. The IAC is in question, but the car was working perfectly fine for at least a year with no problems whatsoever. So how the IAC went bad right after changing everything and a new harmonic balancer is way beyond me.
I'm thinking too maybe I damaged the Crank Position Sensor when I installed the balancer, since it was a one piece unit with the pick-up gear. But, I was careful with it, used a puller installer, and there is appropriate distance between the sensor and gear. Also, I'm not sure, but I doubt the Crank Sensor going bad would effect idle. Any RPM above 1500 is smooth, and doesn't surge.