Ford - Mountaineer :: 2003 V8 Stalling / Not Starting
Sep 5, 2017
2003 Mountaineer, 4.6L V-8. Drove it about 2.5 miles and stopped at light. Died and wouldn't start. Spins awesome. Just no go. Pushed over to the side and about 15-20 minutes later it fires up. Just before AAA shows up.
Nothing for 3 months after checking relays, etc. and all good.
Drove to same intersection on Monday and parked at Kroger. Too long of a line so start to leave, but no start again. Spins, etc. Again, after about 15 minutes I try again and it starts and runs fine and I took it home.
Is there an ignition module still or is it all PCM type of controls for ignition?
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I have a 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L. We bought it in February of last year with 81,000 miles on it, and it has 111,000 miles on it now.
First problem:
It threw a code today: P0683 indicating a communication issue between the Glow Plug Control Module and PCM Communication Circuit. Other than the code, the truck isn't doing anything out of the ordinary today. Drove it about 40 miles, up to 80 MPH, problem three below did show it's head once, but other than that it ran great.
Second problem:
Ever since we've owned the vehicle it has done a strange surging/near-stalling thing (for lack of a better word) when it's started up. It only does it occasionally, and the problem seems to appear, and then go away for several weeks or months only to reappear. Here's how it goes:
- Start truck
- After starting the truck immediately begins to surge (rev?) and then nearly stall.
- It will do this over and over, about one surge/near-stall cycle per second, until I tap the accelerator, at which point it stops immediately. So far it has never stopped on it's own, but has always stopped with a tap of the accelerator.
Up until recently I chalked this up to "huh, that's weird" since the truck has otherwise run fine.
Third Problem:
Every once in a while the truck will hiccup while it's up to speed. It only seems to do it at highway speeds, typically between 55-70, and the hiccup typically only occurs once.
The first time I distinctly remember it happening was right after I had replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor (approximately 5-6 weeks ago).
While digging around online I found one other guy say his truck started doing the same thing after replacing the CMP in his F250 with the same little plastic gray one I used. So that problem might be caused by that part.
My Thoughts:
It seems like the run-away favorite for fixing problem one is to replace the GPCM. I've dug through a couple hours of forums this afternoon/evening, and it looks to me like the GPCM is the culprit the vast majority of the time when code P0683 comes up.
I'm thinking problem 2 might be an ICP issue. I can't find any previous forums anywhere that describe the exact issue I'm having - or really anything very close. Maybe it's out there, but I couldn't find it. So I'm really grasping at straws.
Problem 3 could either be related to the ICP (if problem 2 is an ICP problem) or it could be due to the new CMP I installed (the cheap gray plastic one from Autozone). It's possible the hiccup has been around longer than I think. Half the time when it happens (or does it?) I can't decide if it was a hiccup or a bump on the road I didn't see. I am sure it's happening at times, but there are other times I'm not sure if it was a hiccup or a bump I just didn't see. So I think it's possible it's been going on longer than I realize, and I noticed it that first time because I had JUST been under the hood and pretty finely attuned to how the truck was running as a result.
I'm about to hitch my 35' camper to this truck and haul it a few hours and I'm not feeling real confident right now. Problem 1 hit today, problem 2 is more prevalent than every right now, and problem 3 has been hiccupping for 5 or 6 weeks. I'd like to get at least problems 1 and 3 sorted out before hauling 8,000 lbs if possible.
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My trim piece under the rear window is cracked. What kind of a job is it to replace? I can buy the replacement part from my local dealer and have it painted at a body shop. Is it glued or screwed or both? Iit's a 2003 Mountaineer.
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I have a 2003 mountaineer 4.0 awd, and recently the tranny went out. I have since located a 2004 ranger 4.0 4x4 that I can pull the transmission from if it will work. Swap like this will work, can I use a 5r55e in place of a 5r55s?
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My 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
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Was just out and about today with my girlfriend and while driving back home, the engine just randomly cutout. I pulled over to the side of the road and popped the hood just to see if something came undone. Everything is kosher. Started it back up and carried on, but while driving the rpms kept dropping low and when stopped it would drop to about 450-500rpm.
So I put it in neutral and kept my foot on the gas to keep the engine up to about 1000-1500 RPM just so it wouldn't cutout. Drove part of the way home with overdrive off, even though speed limits in some areas won't let me even get into over drive. No check engine light, no messages on the message center, nothing. Looked into it and it seems to be one of several things.
Mass Air Flow sensor
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Throttle Position Sensor
Yesterday I did fill up with gas, so maybe I got a there after they filled up the tanks. 2003 Merc. Mountaineer 4.6L.
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Daughters 03 mountaineer. Have changed the brake light switch, bulbs and checked the only fuse I could find for the brake lights. She can drive it by doing the override under the column but still has no brake lights and is an accident waiting to happen. What else to check? Is there a relay or another fuse I could be missing? I'm lost.
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It's a 2003 Mountaineer with a mechanical throttle not drive by wire. For about two weeks while idling in park or in gear but stopped in the drive-thru, the engine revs upwards of 1200-2100 rpm. Runs fine normally, no check engine light, no misfire and doesn't matter if the A/C is on or not.
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--2003 Mountaineer 4.0/4WD 194,000 -- My mountaineer is making a loud, metallic, rapid "clanking" sound on slow max turns. It seems to be coming from the transfer case. Would that be possible? I recently changed the front wheel bearings and ball joints and the sway bars look good. There is no noise at idle and it will occasionally make a similar noise while going straight, then stop during the turn.
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I have a 2003 mountaineer v-6 awd drives pretty good but od light is always flashing even if ignition switch is open and truck not started..and check transmission on message display also..the only thing that i feel its really tight on turns as if it wants to lock up but once steering gets straight it runs fine... I know that a regular scanner cant pull codes I got to go to transmission shop but chances are there gonna tell me its trans time....
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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I drive a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 2.7L with a whopping 274,3xx miles on it. I've had it for about 6 years and it has been a great car for the most part. The water pump was replaced a couple years ago and the battery was replaced a year ago.
It started having issues a few months ago. It started out having difficulty starting, and shortly after it would start it would rev up as if you were accelerating even if my foot was on the brake. I took it to the shop and they checked the head gaskets, battery, transmission, alternator (I think?). Came up with the idea that it may be the air intake valve. It's the thing that controls how much the blade opens when you press on the accelerator. Well they took it out and said it was the dirtiest one they had ever seen. They cleaned it, because no one in our area had a replacement, and my car seemed to be acting better. It would still rev occasionally and would have trouble starting but not nearly as often as before.
Fast forward to now (a month later) and my car is revving higher and for longer than it ever has and has started stalling, and not starting more frequently. It usually stalls after it has been revving when it cant release or go forward (ex. when applying the brake or while in park.)
What the heck is wrong with this thing?? No one seems to be able to figure it out and it it so frustrating, not to mention dangerous! It stalled in the middle of me making a turn today so I was literally sitting in the middle of oncoming traffic with a dead car.
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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I have a 2003 mercury mountaineer 4.6L AWD. The other day it died at the grocery store and now won't start. All it has is the check charging system warning light on. Changed Alternator, battery and starter already and still nothing. It does start sometimes but i need to give it gas to keep it running.
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Code P0322 Mod10 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit no signal. Car had a hard time starting, then stalling, now it has been fine since the weekend.
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I just got my oil changed and the company replaced my air filter. After about I week I cannot get my car to run for very long. I notice my car shutter at a stoplight. After I arrived home I turned it off thinking no problem. When I went to go start it up again. The vehicles rpms jump up in down usually between one and zero. When the rpms hit zero the car dies and you can do the start it up again and the same thing happens. While it does this routine the car shutters or feels jumpy.
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About 2 weeks ago my 1997 Buick Park Ave (115,000 miles) began running bad during a heavy rain storm. It was running fine. Then all of a sudden at a stop light the motor hesitated and wanted to stall. I nursed the gas peddle and limped home and turned the car off. The car hesitated and sputtered all the way home as if I was running out of gas.The next day the car would not start. It turned over but would not start. I tried starting the car for three days. My mechanic friend later diagnosed the car and stated the computer was not functioning correctly. He replaced the computer. The new computer seemed to correct the problem.
The car ran great for the next 2 weeks. Yesterday, it was raining hard while I drove the car about 150 miles without any problem. Then suddenly again the motor started running badly. Again, the motor wanted to stall and hesitate as if I was running out of gas. I limped home again. This morning I tried to start the car without any luck. In addition to installing a new computer, In the last 2 months I have changed all the fuel injectors and installed new spark plugs.I have also changed the fuel pump and repaired the fuel tank. My mechanic say the cam sensor and crank sensor are operating correctly. There is spark coming from the coil packs and to the spark plugs. I do not want to randomly change parts.
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Recently found with the cold snap on the east coast that my vehicle wasn't getting heat to the passenger compartment. I changed my thermostat and added a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze to the radiator coolant container. What the next step I should try?
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I am purchasing a 2003 Excursion with a V10 sight unseen this weekend. It has a stalling issue. Apparently it will run and then die. What are the things I should look at besides the fuel filter. The owner said the fuel pressure was ok.
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Why my 03 focus zx5 will stall in reverse. I have had the tranny serviced. I can drive it and then let it sit for about an hour and then try to reverse in it and it dies. I have change the mac, tps, iac sensors. I am at a loss for why this is happening. I also changed the pvc hose that runs from the back of the motor to the pvc valve.
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I have a 2003 f150 2WD crew cab with a 4.6 V8 engine it has 178,000 miles on it. The other day after I started it to leave work it died on me without hesitation almost like the ignition switch was turned off I tried to restart and it would turn over but wouldn't start so I switched the ignition all the way off and it started right up, going down the road it did it again.
If I try to restart without turning the ignition all the way off it won't start but if I turn it all the way off it will start up first try, it has done it a couple times since and its the same way every time, where to start. My check engine light has been on for some time for something else so I don't know if it picked up a code or not I don't have a code reader to see if it has a new code...
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