I have a 2003 mountaineer 4.0 awd, and recently the tranny went out. I have since located a 2004 ranger 4.0 4x4 that I can pull the transmission from if it will work. Swap like this will work, can I use a 5r55e in place of a 5r55s?
View 2 RepliesI'm having a hell of a time with my mountaineer. Reverse went out so I put a tranny in it. It was junk. Got another and it worked fine. Drove it to get gas then home. Woke up this morning to go to work and it stalls out when put in reverse or drive. I broke the o2 sensor when putting the tranny in so bought a new one hoping it would solve the problem and no luck.
View 11 RepliesThe other day I was leaving my house. I started the car and heard a quick, loud chirp. That was the only noise it made so I continued to leave. I rolled out of my driveway and proceeded to put it in drive and found myself rolling backwards. I tried every forward shift, kicked on the 4x4 and continued to roll backwards. I thought reverse worked but found that it wasn't engaging either. My question: is there anything I can look at before resorting to taking it to the tranny shop? I'm in school for automotive and am confident in my abilities to test solenoids and maybe even dropping the valve body to check that. Other than that, I lack the skill to pull the tranny myself and work on it.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 mountaineer v-6 awd drives pretty good but od light is always flashing even if ignition switch is open and truck not started..and check transmission on message display also..the only thing that i feel its really tight on turns as if it wants to lock up but once steering gets straight it runs fine... I know that a regular scanner cant pull codes I got to go to transmission shop but chances are there gonna tell me its trans time....
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
View 2 RepliesOK, replacing the radiator in my 07 Mountaineer. Watched the U-tube video and purchased the sprecta model recommended. Instead to messing with the release on the lines I opted to remove the nut from the radiator. Easy enough, everything going well until I find that the new fittings on the Spectra are a different size. Now I have to remove the lines from the old connect. Bought the Lisle 39660 tool for Ford lines. I've been fighting with them most of the afternoon. I cannot get them off, tool slides in all the way, won't budge. How to get them off, I don't give up easy....but, all my knuckles are banged up.
View 2 Repliesi have a 97 mountaineer v8 aod,for the last 2 winters transmission slips when cold out on the highway, only when temp outside gets 30 or colder, pull over let it run 5-10 min runs great at 65 for about 8-10 miles then same thing, I put new filters twice and new fluid,i have put over 40,000 miles on it since it started doing this, it doesn't do this in the summer...
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 (143K) and having some issues with it. O/D light is flashing once in awhile so decided to check the codes.
- P07401 (Torque converter)
- P1728 (Transmission slip)
The truck shift fine and no having really issues when driving even if there is a weird noise around 70mph.
My 2003 F150 extended cab (4x4, 4.6) won't take fuel without overflowing and splashing gas all over the place. Even if I run the pump at very low rate it still splashes back.
I replaced the tank last fall and it worked fine afterward for several months but the last few times I tried to fuel it I have had problems. I don't drive it too much so I only need to fuel it once a month or so.
Where I should start looking?
My ICP is running low, 460 to 480 at idle and bouncing all over the place. It doesn't get above 2500 or so at WOT acceleration the ECM is throwing a "pending" DTC for low ICP. I removed the ICP regulator solenoid coil and cleaned the inside, filled the connector with dielectric grease and reconnected. That worked for a while but it's creeping down again. I'm going to pull the ICP regulator and clean and rebuild it as soon as I figure out how to do it w/o taking the whole HPOP assy off. How to determine if the root cause is the ICP reg. or the HPOP? Regulator duty cycle is running 15-20% at idle and less than 30% the rest of the time which makes me think it's the HPOP.
View 14 RepliesI drive a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4 with 180,000 miles. A couple months ago my O/D light started flashing. When ever the code flashed i would pull over and I would take the negative cable off to get the codes to clear. While driving it, it would shift normally in till i go to about 40 mph. Then the light would come on and the torque converter would refuse to lock up. I would be in 4th gear at high rpms and when i came to a stop there would be a hard 2-1 shift. I tried solving this by changing the fluid and filter twice. I also replaced the valve body gasket and tcc solenoid. This solved nothing and it continued to do the same thing as before.
I then took it to 2 shops. One told me they go the code for the torque converter and that i would need to replace the whole tranny. The next place told me some internal pump was failing and that a rebuild was recommended. After this I continued to drive it knowing there was no point in trying to save the original tranny. My dads best friend owns a shop about an hour away and said he would replace it with a used one for free. All i had to do is pay for parts. Then one day while driving the transmission blew up and i lost all my gears. Then it was taken to my dads best friends shop. While it was there he replaced it with a used one along with a couple other parts like the starter.
After the used tranny was put in the same problems still kept happening. They tried clearing the code having no luck. I eventually picked it up my self and took it back home to deal with. I can now get the torque converter to lock up but it doesn't want to till I am going over 50mph and at high rpms. The light still comes on when i get to about 40 mphs. I tried clearing the PCM and that fixed nothing. Then i tried replacing the thermostat( It was bad anyways) thinking that the thermostat was not sending the right info to the pcm to make the torque converter lock. Now im completely stuck. What could be causing the problem. I know there are a ton of external sensors that control the torque converter lock up.
I have a 97 ranger 2wd 4.0 with 5R55E. Drives fine in 1st and second. Slips in drive and rev.
View 6 RepliesMy buddy has a '98 B4000 4.0 4x4 Auto, and just recently he lost 4th gear for whatever reason. Which is strange, considering 5th gear still works, and OD requires direct (4th) to work.
So we're thinking its a valvebody problem, and apparently the gasket blowing out of the separator plate is a very common problem. So we decided we're going to drop the valvebody and inspect/replace the gasket.
Now I see that the they now bond the gaskets to the separator plate: What is the part number for this bonded plate?
I've also seen mentions of a TSB, and other mentions of an updated EPC solenoid. Looking for more info on this?
2003 Mountaineer, 4.6L V-8. Drove it about 2.5 miles and stopped at light. Died and wouldn't start. Spins awesome. Just no go. Pushed over to the side and about 15-20 minutes later it fires up. Just before AAA shows up.
Nothing for 3 months after checking relays, etc. and all good.
Drove to same intersection on Monday and parked at Kroger. Too long of a line so start to leave, but no start again. Spins, etc. Again, after about 15 minutes I try again and it starts and runs fine and I took it home.
Is there an ignition module still or is it all PCM type of controls for ignition?
My trim piece under the rear window is cracked. What kind of a job is it to replace? I can buy the replacement part from my local dealer and have it painted at a body shop. Is it glued or screwed or both? Iit's a 2003 Mountaineer.
View 9 RepliesMy 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
Was just out and about today with my girlfriend and while driving back home, the engine just randomly cutout. I pulled over to the side of the road and popped the hood just to see if something came undone. Everything is kosher. Started it back up and carried on, but while driving the rpms kept dropping low and when stopped it would drop to about 450-500rpm.
So I put it in neutral and kept my foot on the gas to keep the engine up to about 1000-1500 RPM just so it wouldn't cutout. Drove part of the way home with overdrive off, even though speed limits in some areas won't let me even get into over drive. No check engine light, no messages on the message center, nothing. Looked into it and it seems to be one of several things.
Mass Air Flow sensor
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Throttle Position Sensor
Yesterday I did fill up with gas, so maybe I got a there after they filled up the tanks. 2003 Merc. Mountaineer 4.6L.
Daughters 03 mountaineer. Have changed the brake light switch, bulbs and checked the only fuse I could find for the brake lights. She can drive it by doing the override under the column but still has no brake lights and is an accident waiting to happen. What else to check? Is there a relay or another fuse I could be missing? I'm lost.
View 8 RepliesIt's a 2003 Mountaineer with a mechanical throttle not drive by wire. For about two weeks while idling in park or in gear but stopped in the drive-thru, the engine revs upwards of 1200-2100 rpm. Runs fine normally, no check engine light, no misfire and doesn't matter if the A/C is on or not.
View 5 Replies--2003 Mountaineer 4.0/4WD 194,000 -- My mountaineer is making a loud, metallic, rapid "clanking" sound on slow max turns. It seems to be coming from the transfer case. Would that be possible? I recently changed the front wheel bearings and ball joints and the sway bars look good. There is no noise at idle and it will occasionally make a similar noise while going straight, then stop during the turn.
View 7 RepliesI have a '06 Mercury Mountaineer, right over 100,000 miles. For the past few months the car has started to make a sound and even produce an "clunk" that I can feel when I am slowing down to come to a stop. It only happens when I slow down to around 3-4mph or slower. The transmission has only around 10,000 miles on it. What could be causing this?
View 9 Replies