Ford - Mountaineer :: 2003 - Rear Window Cracked?
Dec 4, 2007
My trim piece under the rear window is cracked. What kind of a job is it to replace? I can buy the replacement part from my local dealer and have it painted at a body shop. Is it glued or screwed or both? Iit's a 2003 Mountaineer.
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Cracked rear window from bottom center (on the driver's side just past the Dole light). Dealer says that they would have to sub out the install. That worries me a little, given antennae & other items hooked up on/near rear window.
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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My rear window is leaking on my '97 f-150. When it rains water gets in on the passenger side only. I know from reading that this is a common problem. I've tightened up the fasteners that hold the window in place, but it still leaks. Could the high mount brake light be the entry point? Is there supposed to be a gasket behind it? Or is any water that may get behind it supposed to be channeled away somehow?
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I have unfortunately discovered that rain is coming through the rear window of my truck. If it was a big job to fix it. The caulking appears to be rotten and I'm wondering if some goop will seal it up. I'm just not sure how to get the trim off!!
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How to remove the trim around my rear window. Do you just pop it off somehow?
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2003 ford excursion xlt, 4x4, v10, auto.
My rear window defroster does not work. I have no power to the switch. on the reply I do have power to terminal 30 on the relay. If I use a jumper wire between 30 and 87 it works. I think the problem is terminal 86 should have power when thever key is in run position but it doesn't. I have the factory wiring diagram book but am at a loss. It seems to me it is more of a mechanical connection inside the junction box but there are other components on the circuit that work.
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So I have a crack that has grown from underneath my hood all the way to the middle . Can this be a defect ? I have an 2006 avalon.
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I have an 02 extended cab F150 and whenever it rains the rear window leaks (it doesnt have a slider, it's solid) and the half doors leak too... i sealed the back window with caulk to try and fix it and it worked for about 2 storms and then it started to leak again. The side doors leak at the seam where they meet the front doors... Should i order new seals for the windows? or is there a simpler way to do it that isnt as expensive..
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My girlfriends son and friend were driving my girlfriends 05 mountaineer when all of a sudden they lost power to windows, gas gauge, radio and map lights. After doing some research, fuse # 17 is blown and keeps blowing when trying to change. I believe it has to do with Battery Saver Relay. All other fuses are fine. Multiple websites says to start disconnection everything running on that fuse.
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I have a 2014 Prius and I just noticed that the window on the driver's side is broken/cracked on the edge. I noticed this last night but my wife drives it mostly so I'm not sure how long it's been like that because my wife never noticed it.
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2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat, the back window is the factory sliding window, it is leaking around the top on the drivers side, leaks bad. Question is how easy is it to remove the window and replace the seal?
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My 2002 has a sliding rear window. I noticed the rubber weatherstripping pieces that seal the sliding piece of glass was out of place. I slid the window open and it fell off. I then looked at the others and they were being held on by a thread.
I took them off. There is black rubber or weatherstrip adhesive in the tracks the strips came from. Do I need to scraped that out and reapply adhesive? Is there a video or tutorial on this somewhere?
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Patching cracks of the rear window frame? I am talking about the actual glass casing assembly and the cracks are viewable from inside the cab of the truck. I've found two small cracks and that is exactly where the water will stream in.
I was just about to pull the rear window out to replace the butyl seal when I pinpointed the cracks. So is it possible to use some RTV, form a gasket, or JB weld or something else to patch these cracks?
Are the sliding rear windows more prone to cracking? If so I'll probably replace the assembly with a solid rear window. Where I should purchase a replacement window?
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While sitting at the heliport waiting on the rain to stop I noticed my rear window is leaking right above the sliding window. I'm kinda worried about this while I'm offshore because I have a power sliding window and I don't want it to ruin anything that moves the window. Do these trucks have a problem with this and where do I start to look at to fix this?
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The lens in my far rear dome light has a small crack in it. I was trying to find a new one, but so far, no luck. I've found a few used ones on Ebay for the Expedition, but none so far for the Excursion. Did the Expedition (99-02) have the same housing for the rear dome light as the Excursion? It looks the same, but I don't know if the dimensions are the same.
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replacement of a rear tone ring on 06 mercury mountaineer V/6 . I have a tooth knocked off of my left rear . Just wanted to know if there was any special procedure or tricks to it like heating up the old ring or something to remove it or just soak it with P.B Blaster or something similar and tapping it like a bearing race ?
Never did this or have never seen it being done before and rather ask the questions 1st Had the dealer to quote me 500.00 for a new axle and labor said they are impossible to get off or on they most times split ? Old gear head pre-computer car days
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My 98 mountaineer keeps throwing rear end oil out the vent tube.. Why does it keep doing this?? its been doing this for a while and had to change an axle seal, I think because of this. It stopped doing this for a little while after I changed the seals and put in new oil.. Its not over full.. When it stopped I figured it was because the oil was old and was foaming or something.. But now its back to doing it again... The tube is not plugged.. Why does it keep doing this???
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I now have an '01 Mountaineer with AWD and the 5.0. I have a strange vibration that only seems to happen when I accelerate as I get on the highway. I get up to speed and just as I let off on the throttle I get a vibration/shudder from the rear. Almost as if I ran over the rumble strip on the side of the highway. It's a short grrrr, then it goes away.
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Just got a 2003 Touareg V10 and have come home and the rear left window is jammed in the open position - no amount of button pressing will move it. It is now taped up until 2moro when I can get it to the garage.
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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