Ford - Mountaineer :: 2003 - Engine Randomly Cuts Out While Driving
Jun 17, 2016
Was just out and about today with my girlfriend and while driving back home, the engine just randomly cutout. I pulled over to the side of the road and popped the hood just to see if something came undone. Everything is kosher. Started it back up and carried on, but while driving the rpms kept dropping low and when stopped it would drop to about 450-500rpm.
So I put it in neutral and kept my foot on the gas to keep the engine up to about 1000-1500 RPM just so it wouldn't cutout. Drove part of the way home with overdrive off, even though speed limits in some areas won't let me even get into over drive. No check engine light, no messages on the message center, nothing. Looked into it and it seems to be one of several things.
Mass Air Flow sensor
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
Throttle Position Sensor
Yesterday I did fill up with gas, so maybe I got a there after they filled up the tanks. 2003 Merc. Mountaineer 4.6L.
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The engine in my truck sometimes cuts out seems to be at idle. Takes a lot of cranking together going. Might be related but the electric fuel pump seems to run every time I turn the key on and if i sit with key off and the engine not going. I hear the pump come on again. No external leaks can be seen.
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Ignition coil replaced twice in 3 weeks, engine still cuts out randomly and "service engine soon" light flashes on.
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I have a 2006 2.4l petrol (and an LPG gas system) model that is becoming impossible to drive due to the engine cutting out. I had all the plugs changed an injector thingy and some leads last week when it first started to cut.
At first we thought it was the gas system because it was running on gas the first few times it died. I've just taken it out to road test the petrol (with the gas turned off) and it did it again. It happens mostly when at idle (traffic lights) but has also cutout twice at speed on the main road. You can't restart it, it turns over for ever and doesn't fire up...but I did bump start it once. The next day it will start as if nothing was wrong. I haven't been able to access whether any lamps come on (mainly due to being in panic mode at some junction).
So my questions to the experts are based on the 3 main culprits mentioned elsewhere:
Alarm or immobiliser.- is there any way to disable the alarm/immobiliser so I can check if it is that?
Fuel and fuel pressure systems. - can I assume that because it does it on both fuel types that it isn't fuel filter/pressure pump like?
Cam sensor. - I have a mechanic friend who repairs everyone's car at work (600+ people and I think he's mended a good half of those)..is the fitting of a cam sensor only doable with some strange specialist tuning/timing equipment or is it a simple case of unscrew, replace and good is?
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I own a 2005 Saturn Ion, automatic trans, that we have never had any serious issues with in the past.
Saturday April 7th, I was on the highway heading out of town. My engine, oil and battery lights came on and the car stopped responding to the gas pedal, I could no longer accelerate, the car was coasting. The radio was still on, I was able to use my turn signals to get off the highway and turn on my flashers on the side of the road.
Once safely off the highway, I turned the car off and attempted to turn it back on, nothing. It didn't even sound like it turned over, pretty much dead silent. Approximately 30 minutes after pulling off the tow truck showed up and took me to a Sears automotive, the "closest" mechanic to where I had gotten stuck.
At Sears, approximately an hour now after the incident, they were able to start my car to get it into the garage. I told them the same thing that I had posted above, adding that I may or not have had cruise control on at the time, and that my car clock had been slowly losing time over the past couple of years, I was now 22 minutes slow after resetting the clock about 5 months earlier.
They then checked my battery and the computer codes? They took the battery out to charge and told me that the computer had a code "P601" stored in it, something to do with the ICM. This was a computer issue and not something they could fix at Sears Automotive. They charged my battery and then told me it was still bad, and tried to sell me a battery so that they could test my alternator, because they would be "cheaper than a dealership." I asked them to just put the car back together and called another tow truck.
When taking the car out of the garage, I don't know if they had to jump it to move or not, but as they were parking it, the power steering went out in my car. They spent 10 minutes looking for a reservoir that doesn't exist because I learned later that my power steering is electric since I have an electric engine. After that fiasco I was towed to a Buick GMC dealership to deal with the computer issue.
They didn't look at the car until the following Monday, April 9th. The dealership could find nothing wrong with the car. Sears removing the battery had taken the codes out of the system, although I did give them the information sears had given me, P601- ICM. The power steering fuse was blown, but they suspected that Sears had done that by improperly jumping the car to get it out of the garage, I can't prove or disprove that.
Other than that the car started fine for them, ran fine, gave no codes, and did not cut off. I picked it up after work and have been driving it to and from work since.
This morning, Monday April 16th, the car did the same thing to me again on my way to work. I was driving on a smaller road this time, doing 45 as opposed to 65. My engine light came on first, and the car shuddered, like if you were riding with someone who's not good at driving a stick shift. Then my battery light came on. All my electronics, radio, windows, flashers, etc were still working as they were the first time this happened.
I was able to pull off the side of the road and make the necessary phone calls. After 15 minutes the car started normally when I cranked it, this being the first time I cranked it after pulling over and turning it off. I drove straight to the dealership, and they had it all day.
Again, they can find nothing wrong with the car. They got a code that says Cam Shaft, which they said is too vague to narrow down without charging a great deal of labor. The car started up, ran well, and hasn't acted up for them at all. They said they checked my connections, and added something to reduce resistance in case that was hindering it. They are at a loss what to do next unless the car gives them more specific symptoms.
I'm at a loss what to do. I don't really want to keep driving this vehicle when it suddenly cuts off on me twice in two weeks.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe that was new to me in 2011. Pushing 180k+ miles. It was subject to the airbag recall last summer and has been repaired by the GM guys. But last fall I was driving at around 70mph with the cruise on and came up to a speed change so I tapped the brakes to end the cruise and EVERYTHING went dark in the car- radio, dashboard, a/c, the electrical charging plug- EVERYTHING for about 5-7 seconds. Then everything came back on and I continued as normal. My mechanic was dumbfounded. Figured one time freak thing so no worries.
No issues since until this morning. On the drive to work I had the high beams on as it was 5:15 in the morning on a state highway in the country. Came up on a red light so flipped high beams off. EVERYTHING goes dark for 5-7 seconds, comes back on, and I continue as normal. Obviously I'm getting a little concerned at the randomness, not to mention that losing power at 70mph is a little disconcerting. Mechanic is dumbfounded but willing to tear up the dash and steering column and see if he can't recreate the issue.
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My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
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This has happened 3 or 4 times now while driving down the road. Just cruising down the road the CC will just cut out. I'll hit the "set accel" button on the wheel and all is good again until it randomly decides to do it again.
The only thing I've changed recently is the rear end speed sensor to cure the ABS light. I wouldn't/didn't think this would have any effect on the cruise control, but IDK, maybe I'll put the original one back in and test it.
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1988 Bronco II - 2 days ago while driving my check-engine light came on for about 5 seconds, though there were no apparent drivability issues, then went away and did not come back for the remaining 20 or so miles home. Then yesterday while driving to a destination the engine cut out a few times. Gauges and such stayed illuminated but the engine lost power as if it wasn't getting fuel or spark. It occurred randomly over a 3 minute period: 1 second bogging, then 10 seconds powering, 3 bogging, 20 powering, 2 bogging... I depressed the clutch to check if the engine could idle and it stalled. Then I restarted the truck and drove 5 miles home with no issues or check engine light and even driving for a minute at WOT would not make the issue remanifest. I did not drive it today for fear of breaking down and I hope to get this solved before taking it on the road again.
I read the following codes:
KOEO: 11 (passes)
Continuous Memory: 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range.
KOER: 11 (passes)
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It's a 2003 Mountaineer with a mechanical throttle not drive by wire. For about two weeks while idling in park or in gear but stopped in the drive-thru, the engine revs upwards of 1200-2100 rpm. Runs fine normally, no check engine light, no misfire and doesn't matter if the A/C is on or not.
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I have an F-150 with a 5.4L EFI and A/T. For the past two days while driving along the engine just cuts out. There is no chugging or sputtering. It just dies. When it happens, I place the trans in Neutral while still rolling along and it starts right up.
I had suspected it might have been a bad eec relay and connector that I had trouble with in the past, but I changed that all yesterday and the problem happened again today.
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I have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
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I am having problems with my 94 Caprice. It will start right up when cold. After driving for awhile (not too long) then engine cuts off. Electric power is on but the engine is off (like it ran out of gas, or the gas was shut off). At first, it would take a few minutes for the engine to restart. Now that I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay, it will start right back up, but when driving it still cuts off.
Could it be the ECM? Where is it located? Is it a "do-it-yourself" job?
What other problems might it be (besides the fuel pump)? Could it be the power distribution box under the hood? I also have fog lamps hooked up to the panel that wont work. The switch light comes on but the lamps do not. I am going to try to hook the (+) up to the battery and see if the lamps get power, if so, the box is fried (or the stud) But if the main power distribution wasnt working would the car still run, start? If the stud is damaged would it cause the gas to shut off?
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I have a 2013 that randomly stutters or cuts out for a second while accelerating. This happens whether I am slowly accelerating or full throttle. This used to happen once every few months but it is happening more frequently now. It will randomly happen while trying to accelerate on the freeway. The truck feels like it stalls, then takes off. It feels like it loses boost pressure so maybe a wastegate issue or possibly an EGR valve issue. No codes are set.
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So, my brother has an 01' VW Jetta 2.8 VR6 with a 120k miles on it. He was recently driving around 50mph when the engine cut out, he lost all power and all the lights on the dash came on. He didn't get any loud bang when it happened, it just cut out. He tried to restart the car but heard the starter try and nothing else.
He got it towed to a garage who said they suspected it might be a timing chain but they couldn't say for sure until they started poking around. He doesn't recall getting the loud "marbles in an" noise when the chain is about to go. They were quoting around $4k to replace the engine. Being as my brother is a poor student this isn't something he can do, plus he'd already replaced the radiator, tires and all that and I want to verify what is wrong with it.
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MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
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My 02 F150 4.6 4x2 shuts off while driving - usually when I am coasting, but also at varied speeds, even highway speeds. The motor dies, the gauges all go to 0, and the odometer shows ------ I have to shift to N and coast...if I try to re-start it just turns over and over...gauges still all at 0.
I have determined that if I reach behind the fuse panel and wiggle the wiring harness, my gauges will come back and I will be able to re-start it.
I noticed yesterday, that after it did this and I got it re-started, the red 'Theft' light was blinking rapidly. A clue, perhaps?
I have tightened the 10mm bolt that holds the two wire bundles into the back of the cabin fuse box (by driver's door).
Where to start? I have crawled under the dash, looking for loose, chaffed or otherwise odd looking wire, but so far no good.
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Tonight while driving I heard a rattling noise under the engine, come to a stop and the engine cuts off. I pop the hood, get a jump and nothing. So I check the oil and it is dry... I changed it 4 months ago myself, it is a mystery how it leaked. No light came on, no oil leaks anywhere..
Is there any hope in having the engine turn over again? If so how should I go about trying to turn it? Engine only has 61000 miles on it.
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My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.
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I have just inherited my recently deceased father's 1992 Ranger with the 2.3 liter engine. He was a Ford Mechanic but got to ill to worry about fixing the Ranger. So, let me begin, the engine dies randomly, (at idle or in gear driving doesn't matter what gear or speed), turning key to off and then to on will allow vehicle to restart every time. No "Check Engine" light has ever lit, I do have an "Antilock" light that comes and goes. The engine codes I keep getting are: 10, 218 and 222.
Code 10 is a computer check code,
Code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side, and
Code 222 is "Distributorless Ignition System - Loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) signal.
These codes were from my Innova reader. I have read where other similar problems were fixed with a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced mine, no change. Another symptom I just noticed is my temp gauge stays near the cool end when it should be higher.
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I just bought a 99 f150 it has 257000 miles on the truck, and a motor and transfer case from an '01 with 215000 miles. I'm not sure about the maintenance on the truck but when I'm on the highway the truck randomly stutters. I was thinking it was coming from the tranny because the tranny was overfilled by almost a quart but really not sure.
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