Ford - Mountaineer :: 2000 - Dies On Hard Right Turns
Oct 2, 2013
the truck has a few problems however nothing that I cannot be fixed (I hope). It has low miles, and I think I know why.
(1) I found out today that if you turn hard to the right the motor shuts off. ...It restarts easy.. . It will not do the same on left turns ..
(2) the Elect windows still go up and down at anytime after you cut the motor off and pull the key...
(3)The AC cuts off and will not restart..(the PO has replaced the low pressure switch) however I found that power is going to the clutch. I taped the clutch and it pulled in....If I remeber right it was spoken somewhere the one could pull the clutch and remove a washer...Is this true, and is any special tools needed?
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I also tried jump starting - get same same result. Engine cranks, turns, and then sounds like it is just about to start up normally but it just dies completely. It seems to want to start but just can accelerate the engine high enough to keep it running. Almost like it's flooded on a carb motor.. 2000 V10..
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OK, so my 2000 FWD 6.8L Ex has 128k actual miles on the odometer w/ a stock 6.8L from a wrecked later model truck with ~115k actual miles on this 2nd engine from what I was told by the PO/2nd owner (I have no reason to doubt him and I verified the history with the original owner). So I'm guessing that the 4R100 is original without having ever been rebuilt.
I've had zero issues with the drivetrain up to this point, this truck has always run like a top and been very reliable. This afternoon in drive time traffic the overdrive light started flashing and at the same time I noticed that the transmission was shifting really hard (snapping into the next gear) and not in a good way. I was in stop and go traffic when it was shifting weird like this. At one point I make it up to 55+ and I noticed that the O/D light had quit flashing and now it was shifting like it normally does. Then back into stop and go driving the O/D light starts flashing again accompanied by the weird hard shifts.
Next thing I'm sitting there with my foot on the brake fully stopped waiting for traffic to start moving through the traffic signal when out of nowhere and no indication of anything being amiss the engine quits and I get dash lights including CHECK ENGINE and THEFT. I cycle the key off and then try to restart it. It took nearly 10 seconds of cranking to get it to start up however once started everything is back to normal and I have NO trouble lights illuminated including no O/D light and it's back to shifting normally. I continue on in stop and go and highway speed driving for the next 15 minutes like nothing ever happened, transmission is shifting like it always has. The truck has been turned off once and restarted since that incident, yet no other indications of any issue. What's going on?? What to check into?
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I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
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When I try to crank the truck , it starts and immediately dies. This happened several times. The last attempt I began patting the accelerator when I turned the key. The truck cranked and I was able to keep it running by feathering the throttle. it ran rough. At higher RPM it ran ok. When I let it idle it idled rough. After engine warmed it idles and runs fine. Engine started without trouble when warm.
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--2003 Mountaineer 4.0/4WD 194,000 -- My mountaineer is making a loud, metallic, rapid "clanking" sound on slow max turns. It seems to be coming from the transfer case. Would that be possible? I recently changed the front wheel bearings and ball joints and the sway bars look good. There is no noise at idle and it will occasionally make a similar noise while going straight, then stop during the turn.
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I am driving home from a meeting yesterday and I notice that my O/D off light is flashing. I drive home approx. 25 miles and the truck still seems to be running and shifting fine. The only time the tranny seems to have any issues is when I am slowing down. Once the speedo hits 25mph while slowing, the truck shifts kinda hard. Upshifting is still smooth and RPMs are still normal. Where I should go from here?
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My dad has a 2000 Mountaineer (Millennium edition) and the Compass/Thermometer display has not worked in months. I looked through the Manual and looked through the fuse block and they do not specify which number on the fuse block deals with this. Its probably tied in with something else but its not clearly noted in the manual.
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I have a 2000 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 with a faulty DPFE sensor. (as diagnosed by dealership) I'm relatively handy with tools and I was wondering if this is an easy fix.
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Have a 2000 mercury mountaineer that is crazy rich on idle, just dumping gas in the exhaust, fuel pressure is good, burning a ton of gas. Live data is as follows:
Fuel system 1 CL fault(if I shut it off and restart it will go to OL fault)
Fuel system 2-na
calc load 33.3
ect 174
stft b1 -23.4
ltft b1 0.0
stft b2 42.2
ltft b2 0.0
engine rpm 856
veh speed 0
spark advance 18.5
IAT(F) 66
MAF 1.7
TPS 18.8
02SLOC B1S12_B2S12
02S B1 S1(V) 0.920
STFT S1 -23.4
02S B1 S2 0.000
STFT B1 S2 99.202S B2 S1 0.765
STFT B2 S1 42.2
02S B2 S2 0.910
STFT B2 S2 99.2OBD SUP OBD2
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My problem is with a 2000 Mountaineer V8. Once a year I have to replace the battery after the first cold snap due to low cranking amps. I can simply hook up a battery charger and it will crank and fire. My second problem is most likely related. When I replace the battery it will kick off like a brand new car with no hesitation. After a few starts it takes 5-15 seconds for the engine to fire while the engine cranks normally, and that's how it operates all year. After having this problem again this year (I've owned it 4 years) I've realized the underlying problem is not the battery. All the connections are good, and it has a good ground. No lights or warnings, and when tested with a handheld scanner there are no error codes.
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I have used a wooded stick to locate a ticking or knocking noise on my fuel rail. I can't hear anywhere else on the motor. I took it to a mechanic and he told me it was the timing chains and guides. Sometimes it is very loud and other times it barely noticeable. 191k miles so I am not going to spend $ rebuilding the front of the motor. Just want to be sure it is what he says before I scrap it out.
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I have a 2000 mountaineer 5.0 that has a chirp/squeak when its cold and goes away once warmed up good occasionally. I have replaced the belt, alternator and manually spun all the idler pullies, water pump, ac and tensioner. Nothing squeaks. Is it possible for the harmonic balancer to make this noise?
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Mine broke on the throttle body end, I think the cruise control motion caused the throttle cable to bind up as it pulled to accelerate probably over a long period of time. It is a 2000 Mountaineer V8 part is not obsolete from Ford other than a JY what other new sources are there? I was informed only 99-00 are the same from Dealer and have searched via Google. I already fixed it with new 1/8 steel cable and swedged ends, I want a new one just in case liner is gone south.
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I drive a 2004 Volvo v70 (non turbo). It died on me about 3 times in 5 years on tight turns ((switchback). It hadn't happened for a couple of years but now it has stopped 3 times in the last couple of months. It is very dangerous as the steering stops working and I have to totally stop, put my car in park and restart.
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My 2005 Dodge Ram (53,000 miles) will sometimes die while I'm making a left turn, or when I'm moving slowly in a parking lot.I get the oil change regularly and asked my mechanic to checkinto it. He. thought it has something to do with using cheaper gas, so I started buying the more expensive gas but it is still doing it. This is scary when it happens because not only do I suddenly slow down, but the power steering goes out and I have to muscle it around the turn.
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I have a 95 Volvo 850 2.2 L (non-turbo.) I recently replaced the fuel pump, and filter. Now when I try to start the engine, it turns over and sputters before it dies. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and try again with the same results and the same with a longer wait time due to having to charge my battery. I have checked the fuel lines and they seem to be clear, up to the fuel rail. I also checked the plugs and although they need to be replaced, after sanding and re-gaping them, there is plenty of spark. The plug wires and distributor cap are fairly new, and the points look good. So the only problem I see as logical, is the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors. I have bled the fuel rail at the shrader valve, and I am getting little to no fuel from it. I want to remove the injectors and rail, and check out the regulator along with the rest. But how do I tell if the regulator is good, and what is the best way to clean injectors so they will at least last till I can replace them with new?
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I drive an 05 Chevy Classic (that's an '04 Malibu made in '05), and it's never given me problems (though I've only had it about 2 years). This morning, I can't get it going. The engine turns over when I turn the key (though some of the time it takes several moments), but then as soon as I let go of the key, the engine dies. I tried giving it gas, but this doesn't seem to make a difference. After a couple of tries I noticed that the dashboard lights weren't coming on. They usually all light up while the starter runs, and I can at least get them to light most of the time when the key is turned to "on". None of this works. The power windows will open and close when I have the key turned to on, so the electrical system works somewhat.
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus zx5, which has been a great car for me so far. I live in DC, and traffic is insane. Over the last year or so, maybe once every other month, my car has turned off when I come to a hard stop (usually braking suddenly at a light/pedestrian walkway). This is my first time owning an automatic, and it's just as if my car had stalled out. The radio will stay on, etc, but the engine dies and I have to put it into park and re-start it.
The RPMs have seemed to fluctuate a bit as well, usually on start-up or on hot days.
So far I haven't been motivated enough to get it taken care of, since it happens so infrequently and things seem great otherwise. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. Recently it has developed a squeak in one of the pulley wheels. I think it is the middle one but it may be the alternator. My question is can I change these pulleys or do I even need to? My mechanic said its nothing to worry about but I am of the opinion that bad news does not get better with age. A squeak indicates that something is not right.
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'99 Intrigue (3.5L) with 65k miles. The car has sporadic starting problems where turning the key in the ignition turns the starter motor and results in one of the following scenarios:
1) The engine does not turn on.
2) The engine turns on, RPMs drop and the engine sputters and dies.
3) The engine turns on with no problems (like this morning).
It does not appear to matter whether the engine is hot or cold.
Reading forum posts of people that have seen similar problems, several different solutions would seem to be in order:
1) Replace fuel pressure regulator.
2) Replace crankshaft position sensor
3) Replace camshaft position sensor
4) Replace fuel filter
5) Replace spark plugs
6) Replace idle air control valve
7) Clean the throttle body
Since I rather not start throwing money at the car by replacing parts one by one until the problem is gone.
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