Ford - Mountaineer :: 2000 - Rich On Idle Just Dumping Gas In The Exhaust
Jan 5, 2017
Have a 2000 mercury mountaineer that is crazy rich on idle, just dumping gas in the exhaust, fuel pressure is good, burning a ton of gas. Live data is as follows:
Fuel system 1 CL fault(if I shut it off and restart it will go to OL fault)
Fuel system 2-na
calc load 33.3
ect 174
stft b1 -23.4
ltft b1 0.0
stft b2 42.2
ltft b2 0.0
engine rpm 856
veh speed 0
spark advance 18.5
IAT(F) 66
MAF 1.7
TPS 18.8
02SLOC B1S12_B2S12
02S B1 S1(V) 0.920
STFT S1 -23.4
02S B1 S2 0.000
STFT B1 S2 99.202S B2 S1 0.765
STFT B2 S1 42.2
02S B2 S2 0.910
STFT B2 S2 99.2OBD SUP OBD2
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1994 reg cab 4.ol 13ok.. my wife just got it, been doing some small things like replaced dome light, replaced cargo/third brake light, truck starts and seems to run ok. but i get a headache in it which i believe is carbon monoxide, has a leak or something? i text previous owner, he said he replaced 02 sensors, but didnt say if they were bosch or a good brand.. also trucks has a oil pressure and coolant temp gauge fitted on by the gear shift as the dash gauges for those functions are out. Does this mean the CTS may not be working and affecting fuel/air I do not know these trucks i only just found out what this strange silver looking thing was it is the IAC, I Believe, then there is this black plastic vacuum type cylinder by the passenger side firewall, what is that? and right against the drivers side fire wall is a small reservoir type thingy, is this something to do with ABS? i do have an ABS light on, was hoping it was the bulb out on the third brake light or something quirky like that no such luck its still on after starting engine. but i am concerned about this running rich/strong smell as we really cant take it far as is it, its dangerous, may have to get a smoke test? Just got the truck, trying to get caught up..
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2002 f150 4.6l v8... Truck is misfiring and the exhaust is smelling very rich, I have new coils and plugs, it also idles rough and stalls if i let it idle for more than a couple minutes. Could it be something with fuel delivery system?
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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Here is a video of my sonata exhaust running rich and "popping" when i ease off the gas when in P/N (haven't driven it enough to recreate it on the street in gear). I also included a teaser pic of my plasti dip project which is almost done and ready for me to enter the Ride Of The Year.
3.3 V6 Hyundai Sonata Rich Exhaust Popping Sound - YouTube : [URL] ....
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The wife's 08 Mountaineer has an exhaust tick when it's cold. Goes away after it warms up. EGR valve sticking or something? Is there an easy fix?
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97 shortie. 3.0 245,000 miles. I've already cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve. Throttle position sensor reads 5 volts, good ground, and a smooth voltage increase from idle to wide open throttle and back down. Which of these codes is most likely to cause erratic idle? Mostly in the morning.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor.
P1443 Evaporative purge flow sensor.
P0401 Insufficient EGR flow.
P0171 Air/fuel ratio is too lean or rich for PCM to correct.
I doubt it's number 1, and number 4 seems too general to be any use. I'm leaning toward number 3. Seems I read somewhere that the tube from the exhaust gets plugged up. This started when I disconnected a plug from the blue air bag box to get rid of that beeping. Coincidence?
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I noticed difference in smoothness of gas pedal recently, I have an sct x4 tuner and it shows the short term fuel is 1.25% on idle. Does it mean rich or lean?! And what is the solution for this symptoms!
2000 5.4l xlt
Note : cold start runs fine, goes hesitant when warm, furthermore I have changed the temp. Sensor....without any difference.
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I've been struggling with this issue for several months now and cant find the issue. My R32 is fully build 6767 turbo and all supporting mods, it has UM 870cc tune and a PRO Maf. Suddenly it started being too rich at idle, wont even start some times and when you press the gas it dies. When MAF is disconnected it will start but when pressing the gas it will die also. Fuel system is a twin 044 Bosch and OEM fuel pump with a FPR. Been trying with different fuel pressure but it doesn't change anything. What could it be the problem?
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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I have a 2000 Ford F350 7.3 with the auto and 262,000 miles on it. As far as I know everything is stock on this truck. It has been a great truck but lately its been making a strange noise. It almost sounds like an exhaust rattle or vibration but it is intermittent. Its not really loud it can be heard best in the cab at idle. I've looked all over on the truck and haven't found anything. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. I tried starting the truck with the serpentine belt off no change.
I took the inspection plate off the bell housing and couldn't see any cracks the torque converter bolts appear tight, and the starter is not engaged while running. I've read a few forums on the torque converter going bad. It looks to me like its more the 99 trucks that had trouble with that. Did the torque converter issue carry over to the 2000's? Would a torque converter/transmission problem be intermittent?
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So the wife's 08 Mountaineer 4.6 likes coolant. None in the crank case. I suspect head gasket, since I can smell it a bit in the exhaust, but I have also noticed steam coming from the drivers side firewall area, but can't see anything. If it is head gaskets, am I pulling the engine? If I have to pull the engine.
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My 2001 Toyota Celica GT was put through a smog test and it was running rich on the idle only. It has been tagged a gross polluter and so i finally got a code reader to try to diagnose why. When i plugged in the code reader it kept stating no codes. It does not have a check engine light on and has not had a tune up for a while now. I am in real need of my car now more than ever.
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2000 Hyundai Accent with 180K. Runs and idles smoothly. When sitting for a few minutes at idle I get a waft of smoke when I accelerate. The car burns minimal ammount of oil and the smoke is not apparent while driving.
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I just had my check engine light come on and checked the codes and they were P1136 running rich at idle and P1250 low fuel level. My fuel level is 3/4 full and I just installed a K&N panel filter in the airbox. While I was installing the filter I also cleaned the mass airfow sensor and then cleared the codes. The codes have come back after 2 days.
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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A couple of days ago (Friday, Sept 14th), I noticed my 98 V8 5.0 liter Mountaineer was idling rough. I had the codes pulled and got P1401, P0455 and P0308. I did find a vacuum leak and fixed it (changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF while I was in there). I also replaced all the plugs (based on the P0308 misfire). I cleared the codes after that with a neg battery pull.
I'm still running slightly rough at idle, but not as bad. However, I have found that when I get up to about 45MPH (1500 RPMs) I started to get a worrisome shaking/ vibration. It's difficult to tell where it is coming from. If I let off the gas, or give it more and go up to about 50 mph, the shaking stops. It is only when I'm pressing the pedal in this range (like it is having trouble switching gears, perhaps?). Over the past two days of driving it and testing, I have been to autozone and had the codes checked. Nothing comes up, and no CEL.
I just had a new trans put on about 6 months ago. The only thing that preceded this issue was I got an oil change the day before this started at a place I don't normally go to (unlikely, but since they didn't write the type of oil they used on my window tag, I figured I'd mention it). I've read some suggest it to be a tire issue; but that strokes me as odd, since the shaking only happens when applying gas.
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I am driving home from a meeting yesterday and I notice that my O/D off light is flashing. I drive home approx. 25 miles and the truck still seems to be running and shifting fine. The only time the tranny seems to have any issues is when I am slowing down. Once the speedo hits 25mph while slowing, the truck shifts kinda hard. Upshifting is still smooth and RPMs are still normal. Where I should go from here?
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the truck has a few problems however nothing that I cannot be fixed (I hope). It has low miles, and I think I know why.
(1) I found out today that if you turn hard to the right the motor shuts off. ...It restarts easy.. . It will not do the same on left turns ..
(2) the Elect windows still go up and down at anytime after you cut the motor off and pull the key...
(3)The AC cuts off and will not restart..(the PO has replaced the low pressure switch) however I found that power is going to the clutch. I taped the clutch and it pulled in....If I remeber right it was spoken somewhere the one could pull the clutch and remove a washer...Is this true, and is any special tools needed?
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My dad has a 2000 Mountaineer (Millennium edition) and the Compass/Thermometer display has not worked in months. I looked through the Manual and looked through the fuse block and they do not specify which number on the fuse block deals with this. Its probably tied in with something else but its not clearly noted in the manual.
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