Ford - Mountaineer :: 2000 - Faulty DPFE Sensor - How To Replace
Apr 3, 2003
I have a 2000 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 with a faulty DPFE sensor. (as diagnosed by dealership) I'm relatively handy with tools and I was wondering if this is an easy fix.
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I have a p0401 generic exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficant detected code on my truck I was wondering what would be the first thing to check to get ride of this code? my truck hesitates from a stop while excelerating to several thousand rpm. should I try replacing the dpfe sensor? what does dpfe stand for? do they sell this sensor at oreilys or do you half to get this a the dealership?
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I went to emissions test my 2002 Accent, 1.5L 5spd, and failed because of a faulty engine coolant sensor. Problem is, I can't find it anywhere! Worse, I can't find anything online either. I have my second child on the way and need to sell the car and this is the only thing preventing me to sell. Is it worth it to replace myself or to take to a shop and have them do it.
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I have a 2000 ford f 150 4x4. I just had to replace the engine in it because something got in my engine and beat it up and bent a valve. I replace the engine with one out of a 99 f 150. By the way it's a 5.4 triton. The engine I installed was suppose to have around 77,000 miles on it. I noticed when I got it that the dpfe sensor was melted off of it and so was the hose on one side. I never had that problem with the original engine. I took the dpfe sensor off the destroyed engine and put it on the used one I installed.
Low and behold in less that one day it melted off that one. I have read on here about cats being clogged and or the egr tube. I had no problem with my original engine so it's hard for me to believe the cats or clogged. I did happen to find a metal dpfe sensor off another truck and have installed. I am getting a rough idle now and not sure whats going on. I tried cleaning the egr tube the best I could without taking it off. Also the egr ports on the throttle body are cleaned and open and the egr valve itself is a new one.
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I just recently pulled the P1401 code on my truck and need to get the sensor fixed before my next emissions test. I called the dealer and they told for the new sensor.
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I just had both manifold cats replaced and the egr valve which blew a hole thru the side of it and I replaced the hoses and the dpfe sensor due to the dealer said the 2 front cats were plugged this is what happened before cats were fixed the dpfe sensor blowing off and melting then the egr blew a hole in the side on my way to the garage and I also replace the fluid sensor for the master cylinder res because it looked broke and my brakes weren't working right either now that all this was fixed 3 days ago I drove it to the store this am 1/4 of a mile and the dpfe hose blew off again what is going on? ford says I should have the fuel pressure checked?
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I just bought a '98 Ranger 2.5l 2wd. After driving it for a week or so I got a P1405 Code. After a quick google search I got :
P1405 Ford - DPFE Sensor Circuit Upstream Hose
Possible Causes: - Faulty Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor (EGR pressure sensor)
- Plugged or damaged EGR tube
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, I have done my research between forums and youtube and have found this EGR system to be quite. I've gone ahead and replaced my DPEF. I took an air hose and blew out all the small lines coming into the DPEF. I still have the engine light. My next move is to get a volt meter and see if I'm getting power to the sensor.
My question is about this particular code and is it possible I need to look farther into this EGR system (EGR Valve, EGR Hose, etc.)
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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Easy to follow instructions on how to replace the burnt out dash lights on my 1998 mountaineer? I almost bought a new mountaineer; however, I decided to keep this one. It's been very good to me and it's paid off.
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I am working with a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with rear heat/ac, sunroof, and Homelink. I need to remove the overhead console to replace burned out map lights. I cannot determine how to remove the console.
The shop manual has instructions for 2 styles of overhead consoles but not the one in this vehicle. Those 2 styles have a sun glass or garage door opener compartment that you open to access some screws.
This console has the map lights at the front, the controls for the rear ac/heat in the middle, and a panel for the sunroof switch and Homelink buttons at the rear. There is no room for a compartment that opens.
I can get the front portion loose by pulling it down off the clips. The back seems to held in by screws. I do not want to apply much force to avoid damaging anything.
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I have an 1997 Mountaineer AWD with the 5.0. The vehicle has 235,000 miles on it and has run great all this time. Early in the month the Check Eng light came on, I check the code and got "P0141 O2 Sensor Heater circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2". I check and found out it is the O2 sensor behind the Cat that is bad.
I have never change any O2 sensor on this vehicle since I have got it brand New. I have changed the oil every 5000 miles and flushed out the trans every 50,000 miles. New plugs and wires at 100,000 miles. I take good care of my vehicle as best as I can.
My Questions are, should I go ahead and change all the O2 sensor's? Which brings me to ask. How many O2 sensors does this vehicle have and where? Could it be something else causing the check eng light to come on? How bad is it to change all the O2 sensors out?
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So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. You don't want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if that's good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) a lot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they weren't continuous.
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Plugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
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How can I locate a faulty wheel sensor with VAG? Should I replace one sensor or all 4?
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We took our 2008 Prius in for a check engine light. The dealership said oxygen sensor was faulty. Changed that and had them change the serpentine belt while there due to cracks in the belt. My wife filled up the car the next day ( it took 13 gallons) but gas gauge was not registering a full tank. We drove 67 miles and I decided to pull into a gas station and see how much it would take since the gas gauge was not working properly. It took over 7 gallons.
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I was wondering whether a faulty 02 sensor (in my case bank 1 sensor 1) is bad for the motor or not?
It is clear to me that a worn out 02 sensor can cause the following problems:
Wastes fuel
Can cause engine performance problems, such as surging and hesitating
Is the number one cause of excessive harmful exhaust emissions
Accelerates catalytic converter damage
BUT are there any other risks in case of damage on the long term?
What the ECU will do in case of a faulty 02 sensor? Will our Lexus order a rich fuel mixture to prevent heating problems or are we also running the risk of a poor mixture?
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My 2003 Santa Fe 3.5 is in limp mode, you can't change the gears and showing signs of faulty tps sensor, but my mechanic is telling me to change whole electronic throttle system , May be its only the sensor.
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I have a hyndai Sonata v6. It is 2006 model and has done 86K miles. It recently failed the inspection and I was told it has faulty oxygen sensors. I have replaced the sensors. But now I am advised by the mechanic that I need to drive abut 200 miles before I can take it for the inspection again because it takes some time for the sensors to get adjusted. Is that true ?
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If the upstream pre-cat sensor is bad could it cause a P0421 CEL error? 2001 Mazda Protege L4 2L 116,800....
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I thought this strange occurrence I am about to describe was maybe happening because of a faulty air-fuel oxygen sensor, that I knew was bad do to a code test that was done, when my check engine light came on. However, after changing the air-fuel oxygen sensor, doing a reset on my check engine light over the weekend, this same occurrence is happening, to spite the check engine light remaining off. Here is what is happening.
When I start and drive it to normal driving temperature then put the car in "Park" with nothing turned on, the car will shake the idle speed will move up and down until it will eventually kill.
Special Note: It does not always have a idle drop and kill the engine every time. If I turn the A/C on in "Park" it idles up higher and does not ever kill. Could it be a bad Idle Air Control Motor?
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My first Prius, an 05 has 249K and performs pretty much flawlessly. My second, an 04 which I purchased in May, has 75K. While driving the 04 yesterday, all the lights came on the dash and really scared me. I immediately pulled off the road and checked belt, fluids and anything else I could. I then called the dealer and they thought since the car was running normal, to bring it in. For a hundred dollars I was told the HV battery, though working and not a problem, would have to be replaced due to a faulty "battery temp sensor" and that this part is not repairable....I need a new battery! Code POA9B ... Tomorrow I am taking the rear panel out and check the HV battery fan, etc. Can I drive the car with these lights on? Everything seems to work but the CC.
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