I'm having a hell of a time with my mountaineer. Reverse went out so I put a tranny in it. It was junk. Got another and it worked fine. Drove it to get gas then home. Woke up this morning to go to work and it stalls out when put in reverse or drive. I broke the o2 sensor when putting the tranny in so bought a new one hoping it would solve the problem and no luck.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 mountaineer 4.0 awd, and recently the tranny went out. I have since located a 2004 ranger 4.0 4x4 that I can pull the transmission from if it will work. Swap like this will work, can I use a 5r55e in place of a 5r55s?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4 with 180,000 miles. A couple months ago my O/D light started flashing. When ever the code flashed i would pull over and I would take the negative cable off to get the codes to clear. While driving it, it would shift normally in till i go to about 40 mph. Then the light would come on and the torque converter would refuse to lock up. I would be in 4th gear at high rpms and when i came to a stop there would be a hard 2-1 shift. I tried solving this by changing the fluid and filter twice. I also replaced the valve body gasket and tcc solenoid. This solved nothing and it continued to do the same thing as before.
I then took it to 2 shops. One told me they go the code for the torque converter and that i would need to replace the whole tranny. The next place told me some internal pump was failing and that a rebuild was recommended. After this I continued to drive it knowing there was no point in trying to save the original tranny. My dads best friend owns a shop about an hour away and said he would replace it with a used one for free. All i had to do is pay for parts. Then one day while driving the transmission blew up and i lost all my gears. Then it was taken to my dads best friends shop. While it was there he replaced it with a used one along with a couple other parts like the starter.
After the used tranny was put in the same problems still kept happening. They tried clearing the code having no luck. I eventually picked it up my self and took it back home to deal with. I can now get the torque converter to lock up but it doesn't want to till I am going over 50mph and at high rpms. The light still comes on when i get to about 40 mphs. I tried clearing the PCM and that fixed nothing. Then i tried replacing the thermostat( It was bad anyways) thinking that the thermostat was not sending the right info to the pcm to make the torque converter lock. Now im completely stuck. What could be causing the problem. I know there are a ton of external sensors that control the torque converter lock up.
I have a 97 ranger 2wd 4.0 with 5R55E. Drives fine in 1st and second. Slips in drive and rev.
View 6 RepliesMy buddy has a '98 B4000 4.0 4x4 Auto, and just recently he lost 4th gear for whatever reason. Which is strange, considering 5th gear still works, and OD requires direct (4th) to work.
So we're thinking its a valvebody problem, and apparently the gasket blowing out of the separator plate is a very common problem. So we decided we're going to drop the valvebody and inspect/replace the gasket.
Now I see that the they now bond the gaskets to the separator plate: What is the part number for this bonded plate?
I've also seen mentions of a TSB, and other mentions of an updated EPC solenoid. Looking for more info on this?
The other day I was leaving my house. I started the car and heard a quick, loud chirp. That was the only noise it made so I continued to leave. I rolled out of my driveway and proceeded to put it in drive and found myself rolling backwards. I tried every forward shift, kicked on the 4x4 and continued to roll backwards. I thought reverse worked but found that it wasn't engaging either. My question: is there anything I can look at before resorting to taking it to the tranny shop? I'm in school for automotive and am confident in my abilities to test solenoids and maybe even dropping the valve body to check that. Other than that, I lack the skill to pull the tranny myself and work on it.
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 mercury mountaineer 4.0 smells like coolant there r no visible leaks overflow is at the normal the temp gauge didn't go high and the cap is cold IM kinda confused...........
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 (143K) and having some issues with it. O/D light is flashing once in awhile so decided to check the codes.
- P07401 (Torque converter)
- P1728 (Transmission slip)
The truck shift fine and no having really issues when driving even if there is a weird noise around 70mph.
My engine stalls when cold or warm, when put in gear or idling in gear at a stop. If I left foot break and give a little gas I can usually keep it going. I ran 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner through, but no dice. Could the fuel filter need to be replaced? If so, where is it located? 1991 Aerostar 3.0 Auto RWD
View 14 RepliesWhen I try to crank the truck , it starts and immediately dies. This happened several times. The last attempt I began patting the accelerator when I turned the key. The truck cranked and I was able to keep it running by feathering the throttle. it ran rough. At higher RPM it ran ok. When I let it idle it idled rough. After engine warmed it idles and runs fine. Engine started without trouble when warm.
View 1 RepliesI changed the plugs on my 2004 F-150 FX4 with 165,000 miles. Immediately afterwards I experienced a low idle problem. After engine warms up, idle is at about 400 rpm in nuetral or park. When I put in gear it drops to 200 rpm and sometimes stalls. Ford analyzer says misfire #8 cylinder. I swapped coils with #7 and reset fault. #8 cylinder misfire came back. So next I put new plug in #8 thinking the plug was bad. Still have low idle problem. What I should try next?
View 3 Replies2003. Ranger xlt with the 4.0.... So I just bought this truck and was informed that the vacuum might not be functioning correctly. And here's the symptoms. It idles a little rough, nothing major. When I put the truck into gear either drive or reverse, it stalls out almost every time unless I give it some gas and hold the brake. But after that I could drive it all day with out a problem, as long as I don't put it into park. And last it starts a little hard. But the damn thing runs great while driving it. It's still very snappy even having high miles.
View 4 RepliesI had what I was told was the breather (on the drivers side valve cover) snap off. I was able to place a piece of tubing In it and reconnect it. I had to change the #7 cylinder spark plug wire. Got a misfire code and found the wire was loose and corroded. Replaced wire and PVC valve.
My problem is, it seems not to be idling as fast as it was before this happened. The truck stalls out now in gear but not in park. 1997 F150 4.6 ....
2007 F350 138,000 miles
I'm having a small problem. For the past couple of weeks I've started the truck in the morning. I let it run for a few min's as I always do. I jump in it an put into gear and it stalls. Put back in Park , starts right up and then is fine.
knowing that the EGR is due for its monthly cleaning, I went ahead this time around and got a new one for it. Same thing this morning.
I think its kinda odd that it stalls that one time and then is fine. I do run a scan gauge in the truck as well.
I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
So this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. It just recently began acting up. After warming up the engine goes through heavy power loss and inability to climb ANY hill. Usually cannot get above 30-35. I just recently replaced plugs and wires for a tune up and a faulty coil pack (approximately 5-6 weeks ago) causing a misfire on 8. Today in troubleshooting I attempted the "Backyard Mechanic" trick of unplugging the MAF sensor and took it down the road, no change at all in acceleration issues or on idle, truck runs the same. Unable to spot any exhaust or vacuum leaks or issues, recently cleaned MAF housing and changed Air Filter as well. All of these issues arose after a heavy ice storm, do not know if this had any impact or was just bad timing.
View 5 RepliesI have a Prius 1st gen and I just started having this problem yesterday. I started the car and the warning lights came on but the engine started. Then I put it into gear and the car stalled, engine shut down completely. Then I put it back into park and the engine started up again. So I put it into drive again and the engine shut down again, put it back into park and the engine started up. So I turned off the car and waited several minutes, started the car and put it into drive gear and was able to drive it to a mechanic. He said they couldn't get a code reading on it.
View 6 RepliesI just had the APR Stage 3 GTX kit installed on my golf R about 3 weeks ago. Was running great until a few days ago and was making around 28 ish lbs of boost. I started having problems with the stalling the car in first gear a few days ago. It has a moment of hesitation in 1st gear when you hit the accelerator and my vacuum at idle fluctuates a bit and is reading about 20 on my PODI gauge when it use to be around 23-24. Vacuum drops to around 18 with air conditioner on.
I cleaned my intake today and re-oiled it...was extremely dirty. no change in the idle and now the car makes a max of about 12 lbs of boost. I believe it was likely the same before I changed the filter I don't see any visible vacuum leak and the engine runs smooth. it doesn't have and DTC codes present. When at idle and I take the oil cap off it idles rough. Just a slightly rough idle in first and the car won't make more than 12 lbs of boost in any gear in any rpm situation.
I have a 1956 Chevy Bel-Air that has been in my family since purchased new. It stalls when I put it in gear (reverse, to be precise). Any thoughts as to why? And, what can I do to repair it?
View 13 RepliesI have a problem I have been struggling with for the last year.... Here are the main symptoms:
- Engine stutters and sometime stalls ONLY in 3rd and 4th gear
- 1st and 2nd gear has NEVER given us a problem
- The outside temperature has to be above 75 degrees. The truck ran great all winter, but last week with the first warm day, acted up again
- There has to be a sizable load (6 adults, full tank of gas)
- gets much worse going up hills (again load)
Not sure if it is related but one time in the winter, the truck stopped blowing heat. If I turned off the fan, the system would "build up" heat but then as soon as I turned it back on, the heat would stay for maybe 30 seconds and then fizzle out back to cold air. This happened only on the coldest day of the year. The heat has been decent the rest of the time.
Last year they replaced the crankshaft position sensor like 4 times, then claimed it was the ECM, replaced that and it still acted up. Then they finally said it was some corrosion in the wiring harness. However by the time they got through with it, it got cold enough outside where it didn't act up any more.