Ford - Mountaineer :: 1998 - Takes Some Extra Cranking To Start / Idles Like Missing
Nov 16, 2013
I have a 98 Mountaineer, 5.0 auto that I just picked up. It takes some extra cranking to start it, and then when it does start it idles like it's missing. Also, the throttle response is not good. I have two codes that come back as soon as they are reset. P0340 (cam shaft sensor) and P0350 Ignition coil malfunction. I have been reading threads here saying that sometimes the P0340 can be the alternator it not always the sensor.
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier v6 4L 4x4 The truck ran great with no problems other then the fuel sending unit was bad so my gas guage was always wrong. I purchased a replacement sending unit and dropped the tank, removed the fuel pump, and finally replaced the bad fuel sending unit. My gas guage works now, but I noticed it took a few extra seconds to start...it cranked and cranked...then finally started. This is not how is was before. I thought maybe it was due to fuel needing to run through the lines. I thought nothing of it and drove off.
Everywhere I parked...I always returned to extra cranking to get the car to start. A day later I decided to look for kinks in the lines. I thought I found one, so after dropping the tank, making sure everything was secure and routing the lines...i bolted it all back together...But now it won't even start. The truck cranks and cranks, but there is no start. I was thinking of dropping the tank half way to make sure the electrical connector was on....
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I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
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I have a 1999 Honda Civic manual transmission. 1.6 litter. I have a starting problem. I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Sometimes the car starts up immediately and sometimes it takes 2-3 try's (4-5 secs cranking). It is worse with fuel is low.
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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1987 LeSabre v6 engine misses under load. It is a "hard" jolt, miss that happens under slight load weather warm or not. Engine also idles very fast on first start. Wondering if the problem is electrical or vacuum related (or both?). Do not think it is fuel related as pump and filter were replaced a while back. Vehicle has also stalled with difficult restart once in the past few days. Not showing any codes.
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OK, got the plugs changed out and still had a miss. Had the service engine light come on saying a miss on #2. Bought a generic COP at local parts store and seemed to cure problem. I'd like to replace all of them with OEM but I'm confused as to which COP to purchase. I've had websites say the DG-508 fits my car and then another say that DG-511 is the correct one. 2007 Mercury Mountaineer Premier 4.6. The original COP's have 3L3E-12A366-CA on them.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
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I have owned this 01 LS with a V8 for about a year now and have had it to the dealer at least 6 times. After bringing the car in twice, the dealer finally found that there was a problem with the fuel injector. 3 months later the problem came back - basically the car takes 3-6 seconds of cranking before it starts (from a cold start of more than 2 hours). The last 3 times I have had it in the dealer has reprogrammed the computer and thought it was fixed - Wrong! After this last time, the dealer said they could not find a problem and felt they were doing all they could - in fact, they told me to switch to a lower octane gas and see if that works.
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Every morning 1.8T idles high when warming up usually takes a minute or two to idle down. When your running late kind of annoying when I drive before idle goes down to normal brakes seem way to responsive and jerky...
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My truck has a short in it. I've noticed this delay for the past few months. Takes a few seconds when I'm cranking it, then it finally starts. Could it be the alternator that I need replaced? It's not the battery, cause I'm getting plenty of juice.
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I have a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer AWD 5.0L V8. I've been getting the P0153 code off and on for about 3 months.
I read on another forum that bad gas caps can cause the problem, well, I've replaced the gas cap with a new OEM one and that seemed to stem the tide a bit.
As it often seems to pop back up when the tank is 1/4 or less, I fill the tank, and that works some. But it still happens.
This Thursday, 2 days after I changed the spark plug wires, it began misfiring on the #6 cylinder and the P0153 code came back and stayed on.
I swapped the #5 & #6 plugs, cleaned up the area and reinstalled the wires with dielectric grease. No more misfire, but the code did not clear.
So, I also changed the O2 sensor that kept kicking off the code. I used the OEM, Bosch O2 sensor.
I started it and it ran beautifully. Next day, I was driving and that damn code came back. I stopped and had breakfast, it was gone.
Off and on all the rest of the day, disappearing even while I was driving
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How to remove this thing????
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Easy to follow instructions on how to replace the burnt out dash lights on my 1998 mountaineer? I almost bought a new mountaineer; however, I decided to keep this one. It's been very good to me and it's paid off.
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I have a 98 Mountaineer V8 AWD... The other day the power door lock on the drivers door quit working, even with the remote it wont lock the doors. If I press the other door lock buttons, the one in the rear and the other on the passenger side door, all the doors will lock. I have tried to chase down the wire ( pink with Yellow stripe, or green stripe, I forget which one it is now ) I don't have a wiring diagram to know where the wire goes.
I have even swapped the door lock buttons from side to side and it still didn't change anything... Is there something that is a common problem with these that I need to know about??? Looking for a wiring diagram of the doors?? There is no power going to the drivers door lock, but there is to passenger door. I am thinking of running a jumper wire from door to door and see if this will fix it...
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I would like to permanently disable the automatic headlight feature on our 98 Mountaineer. I do not want them to come on automatically or stay on after the vehicle is turned off.
There is a switch located on the mirror. It does not work. This is the mirror that it has. I do want to retain the automatic dimming mirror feature. Is it possible to jumper the switch inside the mirror?
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A couple of days ago (Friday, Sept 14th), I noticed my 98 V8 5.0 liter Mountaineer was idling rough. I had the codes pulled and got P1401, P0455 and P0308. I did find a vacuum leak and fixed it (changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF while I was in there). I also replaced all the plugs (based on the P0308 misfire). I cleared the codes after that with a neg battery pull.
I'm still running slightly rough at idle, but not as bad. However, I have found that when I get up to about 45MPH (1500 RPMs) I started to get a worrisome shaking/ vibration. It's difficult to tell where it is coming from. If I let off the gas, or give it more and go up to about 50 mph, the shaking stops. It is only when I'm pressing the pedal in this range (like it is having trouble switching gears, perhaps?). Over the past two days of driving it and testing, I have been to autozone and had the codes checked. Nothing comes up, and no CEL.
I just had a new trans put on about 6 months ago. The only thing that preceded this issue was I got an oil change the day before this started at a place I don't normally go to (unlikely, but since they didn't write the type of oil they used on my window tag, I figured I'd mention it). I've read some suggest it to be a tire issue; but that strokes me as odd, since the shaking only happens when applying gas.
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My 98 mountaineer keeps throwing rear end oil out the vent tube.. Why does it keep doing this?? its been doing this for a while and had to change an axle seal, I think because of this. It stopped doing this for a little while after I changed the seals and put in new oil.. Its not over full.. When it stopped I figured it was because the oil was old and was foaming or something.. But now its back to doing it again... The tube is not plugged.. Why does it keep doing this???
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98 5.0 last week i was driving around for a few hours and everything was fine. Did some work in the garage for a few hours and had to run to the hardware store. Started the truck up and she ran like crap. Engine shaking like a misfire. First thought plugs and wires. Well by then it was late and Easter was the next day didn't get to it till Monday. Well after the change still crappy running.
So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the mass air. No change. Checked for spark on the coil packs all have spark. Checked the PCV all good there. Checked for vac leaks none found. During that I noticed a small hole in the EGR tube I repaired that but still running like crap backfiring out the exhaust, engine shaking badly at times. I also changed out the FPR on the fuel rail. No change of course.
As of today I changed the coil packs. Again no change. Only code it throws is a EGR high flow after I fixed the hole but was having problems before that.
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The driver side door lock switch on our 1998 Mercury Mountaineer was no longer working. I replaced the switch with a remanufactured unit and it still doesn't work. The rest of the switches and keyless entry work as intended. Is there another likely reason besides a bad switch that would cause this? Which pins on the back of the switch should have power on them? Also, how do you test the switch?
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