Ford - Mountaineer :: 1998 - P0153 Code On / Off Occasionally?
Sep 27, 2015
I have a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer AWD 5.0L V8. I've been getting the P0153 code off and on for about 3 months.
I read on another forum that bad gas caps can cause the problem, well, I've replaced the gas cap with a new OEM one and that seemed to stem the tide a bit.
As it often seems to pop back up when the tank is 1/4 or less, I fill the tank, and that works some. But it still happens.
This Thursday, 2 days after I changed the spark plug wires, it began misfiring on the #6 cylinder and the P0153 code came back and stayed on.
I swapped the #5 & #6 plugs, cleaned up the area and reinstalled the wires with dielectric grease. No more misfire, but the code did not clear.
So, I also changed the O2 sensor that kept kicking off the code. I used the OEM, Bosch O2 sensor.
I started it and it ran beautifully. Next day, I was driving and that damn code came back. I stopped and had breakfast, it was gone.
Off and on all the rest of the day, disappearing even while I was driving
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1997 f250 LD pick up 5.4L engine 131000 miles
Here is my story week ago code came on p0153 bank 2 sensor 1
Slow response ... now I been reading around and some people say bank 2 is passenger side other say it is drivers side or bank 1 is where cylinder 1 is , the point is I'm confused here for bank locations and sensor locations .....
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I have a 2009 Sonata 3.3, 80,000 miles. After getting fuel I stopped about 2-3 miles away, when driving after a restart threw a CEL. Went to autozone and they gave these codes (P2189 and P0153) and were telling me possibly O2 sensor or Vacuum leak. Engine seems to run fine. Not sure if related but while fueling, gas pump was sputtering and I thought oh no. Wonder if I got bad gas and if it could throw these codes? I have since threw a bottle of Techron in and drove about 5-7 miles. I have had major work done with Timing covers twice. So it is possible a line may have came off but that was a few thousand miles ago. I pulled the cover and looked for any visible hoses off, did not see any. Don't want to spray with carb cleaner since it is dark out. I am still under the 100,000 warranty, so not sure if this would even be covered or not or whether I am doing irreparable damage. I saw other posts mentioning PVC issues?
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The wife's 1997 Mountaineer, 5.0 with all the bells and whistles, Every time she stops, wet, dry, snow, any type of surface, the ABS brakes activate just as she comes to a stop. Heavy pressure, light pressure, doesn't matter. She says it sounds like a cow mooo-ing. 138,000 miles. New pads and rotors were installed 40K miles ago (about 3 years ago) she doesn't drive much but the noise is aggravating. No check engine light, or ABS light. Seems to come on when it gets below 10mph consistently. The Engine light comes on occasionally with a catalytic converter fault, replaced the converters but still get the light. I don't think it is related.
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How to remove this thing????
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Easy to follow instructions on how to replace the burnt out dash lights on my 1998 mountaineer? I almost bought a new mountaineer; however, I decided to keep this one. It's been very good to me and it's paid off.
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I have a 98 Mountaineer V8 AWD... The other day the power door lock on the drivers door quit working, even with the remote it wont lock the doors. If I press the other door lock buttons, the one in the rear and the other on the passenger side door, all the doors will lock. I have tried to chase down the wire ( pink with Yellow stripe, or green stripe, I forget which one it is now ) I don't have a wiring diagram to know where the wire goes.
I have even swapped the door lock buttons from side to side and it still didn't change anything... Is there something that is a common problem with these that I need to know about??? Looking for a wiring diagram of the doors?? There is no power going to the drivers door lock, but there is to passenger door. I am thinking of running a jumper wire from door to door and see if this will fix it...
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I would like to permanently disable the automatic headlight feature on our 98 Mountaineer. I do not want them to come on automatically or stay on after the vehicle is turned off.
There is a switch located on the mirror. It does not work. This is the mirror that it has. I do want to retain the automatic dimming mirror feature. Is it possible to jumper the switch inside the mirror?
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A couple of days ago (Friday, Sept 14th), I noticed my 98 V8 5.0 liter Mountaineer was idling rough. I had the codes pulled and got P1401, P0455 and P0308. I did find a vacuum leak and fixed it (changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF while I was in there). I also replaced all the plugs (based on the P0308 misfire). I cleared the codes after that with a neg battery pull.
I'm still running slightly rough at idle, but not as bad. However, I have found that when I get up to about 45MPH (1500 RPMs) I started to get a worrisome shaking/ vibration. It's difficult to tell where it is coming from. If I let off the gas, or give it more and go up to about 50 mph, the shaking stops. It is only when I'm pressing the pedal in this range (like it is having trouble switching gears, perhaps?). Over the past two days of driving it and testing, I have been to autozone and had the codes checked. Nothing comes up, and no CEL.
I just had a new trans put on about 6 months ago. The only thing that preceded this issue was I got an oil change the day before this started at a place I don't normally go to (unlikely, but since they didn't write the type of oil they used on my window tag, I figured I'd mention it). I've read some suggest it to be a tire issue; but that strokes me as odd, since the shaking only happens when applying gas.
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My 98 mountaineer keeps throwing rear end oil out the vent tube.. Why does it keep doing this?? its been doing this for a while and had to change an axle seal, I think because of this. It stopped doing this for a little while after I changed the seals and put in new oil.. Its not over full.. When it stopped I figured it was because the oil was old and was foaming or something.. But now its back to doing it again... The tube is not plugged.. Why does it keep doing this???
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98 5.0 last week i was driving around for a few hours and everything was fine. Did some work in the garage for a few hours and had to run to the hardware store. Started the truck up and she ran like crap. Engine shaking like a misfire. First thought plugs and wires. Well by then it was late and Easter was the next day didn't get to it till Monday. Well after the change still crappy running.
So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the mass air. No change. Checked for spark on the coil packs all have spark. Checked the PCV all good there. Checked for vac leaks none found. During that I noticed a small hole in the EGR tube I repaired that but still running like crap backfiring out the exhaust, engine shaking badly at times. I also changed out the FPR on the fuel rail. No change of course.
As of today I changed the coil packs. Again no change. Only code it throws is a EGR high flow after I fixed the hole but was having problems before that.
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The driver side door lock switch on our 1998 Mercury Mountaineer was no longer working. I replaced the switch with a remanufactured unit and it still doesn't work. The rest of the switches and keyless entry work as intended. Is there another likely reason besides a bad switch that would cause this? Which pins on the back of the switch should have power on them? Also, how do you test the switch?
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I have a 98 Mountaineer, 5.0 auto that I just picked up. It takes some extra cranking to start it, and then when it does start it idles like it's missing. Also, the throttle response is not good. I have two codes that come back as soon as they are reset. P0340 (cam shaft sensor) and P0350 Ignition coil malfunction. I have been reading threads here saying that sometimes the P0340 can be the alternator it not always the sensor.
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Having problem on my wife's 06 Mountaineer, 4.0. Couple months back the loose gas cap light came on out of the blue. I bought a stant gas cap and cleared the code, no problems. Well about 2-3 weeks ago it threw code 0450.
One of the things I saw it could be was the fuel cap. So I ordered a new Motorcraft fuel cap this time and cleared the code. Ran it about a week and the light came back on. No change is performance, mileage, and no fuel smell. So, I don't know what the problem is.
OBD II Code P0450 : It says that a common misdiagnosis is the fuel cap. Says that it is most likely a defective sensor or something. Need to change the fuel tank pressure sensor?
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I have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
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I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
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My 1998 Volvo S70 with 215,000 runs like a dream but it occasionally will not start. The starter sounds like it wants to turn the engine over and all of the electronics work when the key is turned. My mechanic has looked at everything and cannot figure it out. The car at times will not start and if it is left alone for a while it will then start. I have had it towed to his shop after not starting and once it arrived he had no problem starting it. What could be going on?
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My wife's 98 LeSabre will occasionally cut out or stall. It usually happens at low speeds and she thinks it may be more frequently on a right hand turn. The engine can always be restarted immediately. There is no other symptom, no check engine light on when running. The car runs well and has ~125000 miles. Sounds like an intermittent connection or short but where?
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Have a p0401 code which I need to diagnose and solve. However, I don't believe the symptoms are indicative of the EGR system. Its a 1999 4.6L auto approximately 200k miles. Truck runs fine until it warms up, and then occasionally it begins to act like its missing under load. steady state on the freeway it may have an occasional miss, but put a load on the motor and the miss becomes real bad. This doesn't seem to me to be symptomatic of a P0401 code, but I don't really understand the EGR system enough to be sure. Searching on the forums for other p0401 codes doesn't seem to have the same symptoms.
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This has been a great car, until it developed this weird thing. It will occasionally stall while being driven. no warning, the motor just dies. It is a manual trans. and sometimes will restart if I downshift. I have become adept at slamming on the hazard lights and pulling over.
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Put in two starters in two years. This winter started having trouble when driving car - occasionally when I hit a bump in the road the radio and wipers cut off and if I pull over and restart the car they will come back on. My mechanic thought it was due to a loose battery cable and he tightened it up but, it is still happening. Also noted - when starting occasionally I hear a e-e-e-rk sound (I think the ignition) and if I turn key to off and try again it usually starts - sometimes it takes 2-3 tries. Infinity 1998 I30 Touring...
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