Ford - Mountaineer :: 1998 - Oil Coming Out Of Rear End Vent Tube
Mar 11, 2013
My 98 mountaineer keeps throwing rear end oil out the vent tube.. Why does it keep doing this?? its been doing this for a while and had to change an axle seal, I think because of this. It stopped doing this for a little while after I changed the seals and put in new oil.. Its not over full.. When it stopped I figured it was because the oil was old and was foaming or something.. But now its back to doing it again... The tube is not plugged.. Why does it keep doing this???
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Ok, I have a 98 F150 XLT, standard cab, 8 ft. bed, 2WD with limited slip - if any of that makes a difference.
The rear axle vent tube is literally blowing oil out the top, where it's loosely connected to the bed. It does this every few weeks. I pulled the hose and ran a rifle cleaning rod down it to make sure it wasn't plugged ... it wasn't.
It seems like it's building up pressure somewhere, then blowing all at once, but why?
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I own a 2004 F-150 FX4 5.7L V8, I notice this morning that I had gear oil coming out of my rear Axle Vent Tube. What would cause this issue? I'm kinda at a loss as to what would cause it.
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I have a F-250 4WD with 7.5L which has a MC/Holley 4180c sitting on top. It was getting very poor mpg (like 5-6 miles/gal) and then was getting harder and harder to start. This progressed rather quickly to not starting with fuel coming out of the primary vent tube. I suspect it has to do with the primary float stuck open. I was considering rebuilding the carburetor. Is this over reaction prematurely or is there something like float adjustment that may rectify all of the symptoms described. If a rebuild is in order what is the information I would need to ensure getting the correct rebuild kit. Info that I have so far from research is it is Motorcraft ID #E5HE-9510-MC.
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I just changes the heater core, water pump and thermostat and I only get luke warm heat coming out of the vents. Did I need to have bled the heater core?
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What would be the cause of a thumping noise coming from the right rear (pasenger side)side of the SUV. As I speed up is gets louder and faster. Check the tire it looks ok. Didn't check the other side of it.
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My front differential on my 97 Silverado Z71 sometimes vents some fluid out of the vent tube. I end up smelling it in the interior while driving. The vent tube top is above the top of the radiator and has the little cap on it. The first time it did it, was during a heavy rain. I had it in 4wd on the freeway doing around 60-70 mph. I figured it was because I was in 4wd. It did it yesterday after a 35 mile drive on the freeway again, but I was in 2wd the whole time. Outside air temp was over 100 degrees and I am using Royal Purple fluid. I checked the level a couple of weeks ago and it was below the fill plug about 1/2 inch.
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I was pulling a motorcycle trailer down the interstate about 75 mph for about 4 hours. When we got home I noticed it looked like there had been an oil leak. I looked underneath and it appears like tranny fluid spewed out of the top vent tube on the tranny. I have a 4x4 with a Automatic overdrive. It was tranny fluid and it does not appear that it was low on the stick when I checked it. We were pulling some hills and it would downshift but it seemed to be working fine. Seems to still work ok. We had the tranny rebuilt about 50,000 miles ago.
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I decided to install a new Optima yellow top battery because I performed the battery check and found the voltage low and therefore believed my 2008 was still running on the original OEM 12v battery. Much to my surprise I found a non-OEM battery installed and the vent tube elbow missing!
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 6.0 Ltr C2500 Auto tran Large Gas tank 120,000 miles. My gas tank filler tube vent hose has come off of its attaching point. It is still connected to the filler tube. I can not see where it connects on the other end. The small hose is long enough to reach the rear bumper on my truck noticed it hanging over the differential on the ground. Where to reconnect it to. I do have a check engine light showing. I fear my truck is falling apart slowly.
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My 2000 Passat's interior is flooding, however it is only in the read driver side floor and it is coming from the vent that is down there... I looked under the battery and vacuumed and cleaned it out... I can't seem to remove the black box on the right side under the hood next to the battery, it holds the ECU I believe. nor can I figure out where the flooding is coming from.
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1998 F150 4.6L. Pretty sure EGR is bad. Clogged ports cleaned, DPFE changed, etc. Tried the suck test on EGR, no change. Still getting 401 code. Ports were really bad, so I figure EGR is clogged/bad also.
Here's the problem....I can't get the nut loose that holds the tube from the manifold onto the EGR. It is on the back side of the EGR facing the firewall. Not a whole lot of room to work with, but I can get a 1-1/16 wrench on it. I have tried soaking it in PB, heating the EGR body with propane, beating on it with everything I can find, and it still won't budge.
If I unbolt the EGR from the TB, I have no leverage on it.
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I have a 1998 Mercury Mountaineer AWD 5.0L V8. I've been getting the P0153 code off and on for about 3 months.
I read on another forum that bad gas caps can cause the problem, well, I've replaced the gas cap with a new OEM one and that seemed to stem the tide a bit.
As it often seems to pop back up when the tank is 1/4 or less, I fill the tank, and that works some. But it still happens.
This Thursday, 2 days after I changed the spark plug wires, it began misfiring on the #6 cylinder and the P0153 code came back and stayed on.
I swapped the #5 & #6 plugs, cleaned up the area and reinstalled the wires with dielectric grease. No more misfire, but the code did not clear.
So, I also changed the O2 sensor that kept kicking off the code. I used the OEM, Bosch O2 sensor.
I started it and it ran beautifully. Next day, I was driving and that damn code came back. I stopped and had breakfast, it was gone.
Off and on all the rest of the day, disappearing even while I was driving
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How to remove this thing????
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Easy to follow instructions on how to replace the burnt out dash lights on my 1998 mountaineer? I almost bought a new mountaineer; however, I decided to keep this one. It's been very good to me and it's paid off.
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I have a 98 Mountaineer V8 AWD... The other day the power door lock on the drivers door quit working, even with the remote it wont lock the doors. If I press the other door lock buttons, the one in the rear and the other on the passenger side door, all the doors will lock. I have tried to chase down the wire ( pink with Yellow stripe, or green stripe, I forget which one it is now ) I don't have a wiring diagram to know where the wire goes.
I have even swapped the door lock buttons from side to side and it still didn't change anything... Is there something that is a common problem with these that I need to know about??? Looking for a wiring diagram of the doors?? There is no power going to the drivers door lock, but there is to passenger door. I am thinking of running a jumper wire from door to door and see if this will fix it...
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I would like to permanently disable the automatic headlight feature on our 98 Mountaineer. I do not want them to come on automatically or stay on after the vehicle is turned off.
There is a switch located on the mirror. It does not work. This is the mirror that it has. I do want to retain the automatic dimming mirror feature. Is it possible to jumper the switch inside the mirror?
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A couple of days ago (Friday, Sept 14th), I noticed my 98 V8 5.0 liter Mountaineer was idling rough. I had the codes pulled and got P1401, P0455 and P0308. I did find a vacuum leak and fixed it (changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF while I was in there). I also replaced all the plugs (based on the P0308 misfire). I cleared the codes after that with a neg battery pull.
I'm still running slightly rough at idle, but not as bad. However, I have found that when I get up to about 45MPH (1500 RPMs) I started to get a worrisome shaking/ vibration. It's difficult to tell where it is coming from. If I let off the gas, or give it more and go up to about 50 mph, the shaking stops. It is only when I'm pressing the pedal in this range (like it is having trouble switching gears, perhaps?). Over the past two days of driving it and testing, I have been to autozone and had the codes checked. Nothing comes up, and no CEL.
I just had a new trans put on about 6 months ago. The only thing that preceded this issue was I got an oil change the day before this started at a place I don't normally go to (unlikely, but since they didn't write the type of oil they used on my window tag, I figured I'd mention it). I've read some suggest it to be a tire issue; but that strokes me as odd, since the shaking only happens when applying gas.
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98 5.0 last week i was driving around for a few hours and everything was fine. Did some work in the garage for a few hours and had to run to the hardware store. Started the truck up and she ran like crap. Engine shaking like a misfire. First thought plugs and wires. Well by then it was late and Easter was the next day didn't get to it till Monday. Well after the change still crappy running.
So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the mass air. No change. Checked for spark on the coil packs all have spark. Checked the PCV all good there. Checked for vac leaks none found. During that I noticed a small hole in the EGR tube I repaired that but still running like crap backfiring out the exhaust, engine shaking badly at times. I also changed out the FPR on the fuel rail. No change of course.
As of today I changed the coil packs. Again no change. Only code it throws is a EGR high flow after I fixed the hole but was having problems before that.
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The driver side door lock switch on our 1998 Mercury Mountaineer was no longer working. I replaced the switch with a remanufactured unit and it still doesn't work. The rest of the switches and keyless entry work as intended. Is there another likely reason besides a bad switch that would cause this? Which pins on the back of the switch should have power on them? Also, how do you test the switch?
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I have a 98 Mountaineer, 5.0 auto that I just picked up. It takes some extra cranking to start it, and then when it does start it idles like it's missing. Also, the throttle response is not good. I have two codes that come back as soon as they are reset. P0340 (cam shaft sensor) and P0350 Ignition coil malfunction. I have been reading threads here saying that sometimes the P0340 can be the alternator it not always the sensor.
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