I get a huge jolt of shock when I get out of the car and touch the car frame. I live around Detroit where its cold and very dry, so I have to wear warm coat. How I can avoid collecting static while driving and best way to discharge it when I get out.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 Honda Fit. I love my car, but every time I touch the hatchback latch to open the vehicle I get a huge shock. For various reasons, no car will ever see the inside of our garage. Because we live in Arizona, which is brutal on paint, plastic, rubber, and every other kind of material, we keep car covers on our vehicles in the driveway. The humidity here is often in the single digits. Here's what happens - before I get in my car, I roll up my car cover, then hit the unlock button on my key chain and then reach over to unlatch my hatchback. Then... ZAP!!! How can I discharge the static electricity BEFORE I touch my car? Is there any way I can avoid getting shocked?
View 4 RepliesThis has been a problem since I got the truck. It's a 1996 F150 5.8 4x4. It's got about 140,800 miles on it; had about 139,000 when I picked it up. Not sure if the trans has been rebuilt or not. I'm the 3rd Owner. It doesn't matter what temperature it is outside or how far my foot is down on the pedal... Just about every 1-2 shift is accompanied by a little kick/jolt. Going slow..(coasting, about 15mph) and it shifts into 2nd, usually the jolt is harder than hell!
Same goes for when I'm going about 25mph and I put the pedal to the floor It downshifts then comes back up to 2nd gear and wow. It jolts, shakes and shudders. Sometimes (rarely) I don't feel anything when it shifts. But it ONLY and always happens 1-2. not 2-1 either. Furthermore, when I go to put my truck into Reverse it kind of slams into it, with a clunk noise. All fluids have been changed recently and I also put "Lucas Oil Transmission Fix" in it and that didn't seem to change anything. What is going on internally?
My 302, only mod is a 4160 600cfm and i love it. But when I kinda baby the throttle and the secondaries flop down to let fuel it... There is a massive lag time. Sometime it will even backfire! fronts have 59's (could be slightly richer) and the back has a 134-39 metering plate and a black spring. it seems that it needs another shot from an accelerator pump to keep going. I raised the float with the same result, how to cure that lag time without mashing the throttle.
View 14 RepliesScenario.... Anticipating needing 4wd, I turn the selector to 4wd, proceed forward, and pow, a huge pop from the front end. I proceed about 5 feet, and am stuck in mud without front wheel engagement. I manually lock hubs and have 4wd. Is this the leaking hub vacuum, I hear so much about? What was the popping sound? Any harm done? Everything locks, lights up, then disengages...... A little freaked out!
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 f150 with the 351 and i was wondering how loud it would be with that huge stock muffler cut off and jsut the two cats still in place. I heard the cats will still quite it down a little bit cuz I don't want anything obnoxiously loud...
View 1 RepliesSo broke down today and have no tools, in a city I don't live in. Huge coolant leak behind the block on the passenger side. Luckily we broke down right at a mechanics shop. They need to take off the manifold to get to the rusted out metal piping in back.
I am new to the V10. Looking for information on what could be leaking back there? I know I could do this myself but I need to know what parts I might be dealing with first. And its tight quarters back there.
When I bought my truck it had a ford remote start in it. This has only happened like 2-3 times.. when I remote start right after my truck starts there is this huge screech and obviously it worries me.
View 4 RepliesSo my automatic accent with 82000 KM is doing some funny things. The first, is occasionally when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, it will shift, and then almost shift again with a bit of a jolt (double shift?). The second, is when in 4th gear, when at 2000 rpm, it will jerk, almost like if it shifts yet there is nothing to shift too (4th is the highest gear). What is going on here?
View 3 RepliesEvery now and then (more often than not) when I am slowing down in my '05 GLX Passat, the transmission seems to throw it's self rather harshly down into first gear.
So, I'll be slowing down from an exit ramp off a highway to a traffic light and right before I come to a complete stop the car will jolt its self into first.
Is that normal? It happens more when I am slowing down at a quick rate, but when I am gradually slowing down, it usually won't happen.
I got to work I parker her on the 6th floor of the parking garage. While unloading I smelt oil (but didn't act on it due to me running late) so I walked away towards the elevators. Forgot something from the truck and once turned back towards the truck noticed a MASSIVE oil spill underneath. Easily 2-4 qts ALL Over. Also had a trail of oil ALL the way down 6 floors out to the street. Truck had little to no oil left in the motor.
Truck runs/ran fine, numbers for ICP and HPOP all normal. Truck will still start fine and run fine. No codes, no surging, no rough idle nothing odd other than a MASSIVE and almost instant oil leaking once started.
About a week before this happened I changed the ICP and pigtail. I understand I used a cheaper version of it, and it just might be the ICP, but I stuck my hand back there, and felt just a little oil (im guessing residual from the previous faulty one) After I changed the ICP I noticed I will had oil leaking from somewhere. Is it possible that I just finally blew out what was still leaking?
I have an early 04 so 03 motor. Seems like no real wet oil spots before the turbo area. I'm planning on tearing her down friday, but would like to know really what to focus on. I thought the pressure switch, but specifically looked there while it was running. Oil is traveling from where the ICP is located (roughly) left (Driver side mostly) but will get some on right (Passenger side) of bell housing.
I tried looking under turbo and didnt see much wet under there. I can't imagine the ICP i just installed could be blown out and dumping THAT much oil. Within 10 seconds it's dripping heavy, within a minute of running there is a football size puddle on the ground. Will drip for another few minutes after shutoff.
I thought of oil filter and pressure sender but like I said couldn't see any wet pools of oil. What else under the turbo area could leak THAT much oil so quickly?
Yea, so early in the morning I turn on the radio am, and touch the heater/cool and the static is really bad. It's bad before I touch the heater on but is worse during.
View 3 RepliesFirst some background. The vehicle is a 2003 Expedition with rear AC. The 5.4L engine has been replaced with a 4BT Cummins (DD since 2010), but the AC system is not altered-- other than the compressor being mounted to a different engine. The intercooler is in front of the condenser, which hurts efficiency of the AC system, but it seems to work fine in our climate.
My AC system quit cooling one day, and the problem was a hole in one of the low-side tubes from rubbing on the turbo-to-intercooler tube. I repaired this by aluminum brazing. The system held 120 psi on nitrogen for one hour. So I pumped it down overnight to 27 inches of Hg and made an appointment with the AC shop to get it recharged. I could not get an appointment for several weeks, so I continued to drive it with no AC, thinking it should be no problem since there is no pressure in the system.
I was on a road trip when all of a sudden, there was a huge stinky cloud of blue smoke billowing out from behind the truck. I pulled over and the AC clutch and pulley was smoking hot. I shut it down and cooled it off slowly with squirts from a water bottle.
So my clutch is shot but I'm not sure what caused it to fry. Is there a typical mechanical failure where the friction material can be chewed up by the pulley-hub? Or is it possible that somehow the controller commanded the clutch to engage without pressure in the system?
I think it would be prudent to replace the compressor, since there may be some bearing or housing damage from the clutch failure, so that is in the plan. I have read that when ever the system is open, the drier should be changed too. I want to do this right rather than do it again on another day.
One concern I have is that if when the clutch was failing and it managed to turn the compressor-- could there be pieces of compressor in the tube runs that I need to clean out? Other than a visual inspection of the open tube ends, is there another test or things to look for?
Had my transmission software updated today with the 20,000 service. Will give it a test tomorrow and we'll see if the "jolt" is fixed.
View 7 RepliesMy car has always done this since I've had it. When i go to shift into rev. from park, i get a slight jolt. It also does from park to drive and so on. Also, when I am driving and the transmission shifts, I also get a little bit of lag. I really hope my transmission isn't slipping. It is using a little bit of fluid but I am not 100 percent on that. Would doing a flush/ filter replacement work? I really know nothing about stuff like transmissions, so on.
View 10 RepliesAny trick that they have used before for removing the Front Passenger Shock Top Nut without removing the A/C Accumulator? The Nut I need to remove is right underneath the A/C Accumulator and I can't get a 15mm Deep Socket on the nut so that I can use an air tool to take off the nut like I did on the Driver side. Is my only option to use a 15mm ratcheting box end wrench or remove the accumulator? On AllData, they show the pics of the Driver Side which is easy to access with just a swivel and a couple of extensions.
View 1 RepliesIs there any particular front stabilizer shock I should purchase for a replacement for my 2003 X 6.0L diesel? Anything I should stay away from?
View 7 RepliesI own a 05 XLT Screw 4x4. Dual rear shock set up? My truck drops in the rear when I load up my quads and attach my trailer. I could do an add a leaf but thought a dual shock setup might look and perform better. I am going to add traction bars also because I get a lot of hop when the bed is empty and I'm in the sand.
View 6 RepliesToday I noticed I broke my steering stabilizer shock. It it broke at the connection on the piston arm where it connects to the steering linkage and the piston shaft is bent. Guess it happened when I hit a rock Thursday. I am thinking of purchasing the Rancho 9000 adjustable shock as a replacement. I do not do much off road driving and what I do is very moderate. This is for a 04 Excursion, 4x4, 6.0PSD, with 285 all terrain tires, no lift.
View 7 RepliesCouldn't get the bolts out of the bushings so just bought new mounts. Was wondering to have the torque value for the u-bolts...
View 2 Replies2012 F-250 super cab 4x4, 6.7 and just over 100k on the odometer. He pulls a 20' landscaping trailer with about 3000lbs of gear on a daily basis. He drives the same rounds weekly and the truck is dealer serviced. His trips to the pump used to be every 7 days and are now occurring every 3-4 days. He's down to 10.4 mpg. I usually can pull better mileage with the 6.2 pulling said trailer.
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