Ford :: How To Add Extra Back Up Light
Sep 17, 2012
Like it or not autumn and winter is coming. it is getting darker earlier and the back up lights on my truck are pretty weak. I do have a standard 7 pin (flat blade) connector, and looking at the wiring diagrams i could connect 1 cable to the centerpin for the back up light and one to the bottom left for ground. Now the question is how to connect the wires? I went to the parts store and almost bought a 7 to 4 pin converter and a 4 pin plug in with the wires hanging out but further investigation showed that the basic 4 pin plug would not support a back up light. I do not want to cut the wiring harness going into the connector, it has to be an another way.
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So I have the option to get a bds 4" lift for about 325 brand new from a friend.
Hard to pass up that deal but I really need like a 6 to 7" lift.
Is there anything i can add to get a few extra inches? Shackles?
I do NOT go off road its just for street use, and I only drive it maybe 4k a year if that.
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This is on my 05. I assume its for fog lights. Is that correct? If so, where is the fog light switch? I don't have one near my headlight switch. Is this one of those things where everyone gets the harness, but the option is only on the switch if equipped?
Here is the harness....
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My truck horn sounds wimpy and how I can look into for a deeper sound. I am looking for a simple replacement that doesn't need any extra wiring or modification.
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I am trying to get an extra set of wheels for my truck before we move back to Alaska to mount my studs on next winter. I have found a few used sets but then realized I have the tire pressure sensors on my truck. If I pick up a set, do I have to get ones with the sensors? Can sensors be added to the tire shop? I just really have no intel on this subject!
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After driving about 100 miles there's about 0.25 gallons excessive fluid in motor oil. We are wondering whether it's about fuel injectors' gaskets or something else.
If we should replace injectors, where to buy them trhustworthy and also a quality ones?
The car is Ford Excursion 6.0l 2005
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Ok so I've had this problem since I bought the truck and has never really caused any damage anywhere except in the rain and snow it makes it brake loose much easier. i bought the truck at 90,000 and im at 217000 now. I just recently added a programmer and bored it out and now I am concerned the extra power will cause catastrophic failure, i found this which accurately describes it as to what the problem is? my 92 f-250 felt this way when the driveshaft was getting loose but no such problem on this one.
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I have a 98 Mountaineer, 5.0 auto that I just picked up. It takes some extra cranking to start it, and then when it does start it idles like it's missing. Also, the throttle response is not good. I have two codes that come back as soon as they are reset. P0340 (cam shaft sensor) and P0350 Ignition coil malfunction. I have been reading threads here saying that sometimes the P0340 can be the alternator it not always the sensor.
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1999 to 2002 F-250 ... As the title says, looking for accurate weight difference between single cab and xtra cab.
Looking for replies from those that have knowledge from trucks that have actually been weighed, not just speculation.
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I have an 06 F350 regular cab. I have 4 speakers in it but I want to add more but I can't find a place for them. Finding a place to mount extra speakers? And I'm not looking to add a subwoofer for that stupid "BA BOOM BA BOOM" music.
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Got some snow tonight and was driving home from work around 35-40 mph in 4x4. You can tell that everything is engaged by the feeling and noise. Just not sure if this is abnormal. When letting off the throttle there's an extra metallic rubbing sound that goes with the drivetrain speed. Not sure if I'm just hearing the driveshaft from being in 4x4 of if something is up?
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I have a 2002 Camry with 302,245 miles. I am noticing that it is using a lot of oil. Maybe 2 quarts extra in between oil changes.
I came home tonight and noticed oil on the garage floor. At first I thought it was water from the AC but it smelled and felt like oil.
Could the engine be burning oil and a possible leak?
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I'm planning on buying the chrome grill for my 2006 and I want all the front to be chrome.
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I'm still trying to figure out the tiptronic trans. Sometimes it seems to have a mind of its own. One anomoly I've noticed fairly consistently is a "second" shift within 2nd gear. It happens a little above 2000rpm and it can be felt, heard and observed as a drop of several hundred rpm. It's as if the trans is shifting on its own, but its not since it remains in second gear until I upshift into third.
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I just purchased an 04 f-250 Lariat. It only has 103k miles. first time diesel owner. When I drive it, it shifts smooth as ever. BUT, when I need that extra power to downshift, nothing happens. Nothing raddles, it stays cool when it warms up. Again, normal driving behavior its fine, until it needs to downshift. I have two referred mechanics, but id like to get a little more info before I take it in.
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I have decided to purchase a set of Potenza RE760 Sport tires for my GTi.
I don't know the difference between extra load and standard. If I understood correctly extra load will be a bit harsher of a ride and is more performance oriented? What is the best option for my specific car? Running stock 18-inch Austin's btw.
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As I had two extra keys from my last Prius (totaled 2010), I took them to the dealer to get them programmed - they spent gobs of time, but could not get them to register. They verified they were the correct keys - but in the end, could not get through to Toyota's higher level tech support to troubleshoot it....
They said they'd try again on my first service. Why there would be an issue programming extra keys???
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So I drove my wife's 2013 Tig SE (FWD) yesterday and heard a weird (extra) door chime noise when I got out of the car....just doesn't sound right.
And my 2013 Tig S obviously doesn't do it.
Planned on taking it to the dealer.
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My RC just hit 22k miles a couple of days ago. This morning when I went to turn on my car, it took a couple of extra cranks for the car to turn on. I am dropping the car off tomorrow at Lexus.
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I'm one month into a new '12 Outback, after previously purchasing a '12 Forester and trading up to the OB. Both cars have proven (to me at least) to have the worst front seats I've ever encountered in any car I've driven in nearly 30 years of driving. The adjustments on the Forester were limited to forward and backward, but even with the power adjustment on the OB, I'm having all kinds of back problems (including likely sciatica problems) that I've never experienced before. No amount of seat adjusting, or extra cushions or pillows, does anything to fix the problem. I'm facing a visit to the chiropractor to investigate the cause, but everything seems to point to the dang Subaru seats. I'm not at all unusual in my body type/frame/weight, so this is incredibly frustrating, especially since the OB, and even the Forester, are otherwise good vehicles and had everything I need at a good price.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier v6 4L 4x4 The truck ran great with no problems other then the fuel sending unit was bad so my gas guage was always wrong. I purchased a replacement sending unit and dropped the tank, removed the fuel pump, and finally replaced the bad fuel sending unit. My gas guage works now, but I noticed it took a few extra seconds to start...it cranked and cranked...then finally started. This is not how is was before. I thought maybe it was due to fuel needing to run through the lines. I thought nothing of it and drove off.
Everywhere I parked...I always returned to extra cranking to get the car to start. A day later I decided to look for kinks in the lines. I thought I found one, so after dropping the tank, making sure everything was secure and routing the lines...i bolted it all back together...But now it won't even start. The truck cranks and cranks, but there is no start. I was thinking of dropping the tank half way to make sure the electrical connector was on....
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