My 1982 Ford Granada has a slow, external antifreeze leak that I can't seem to pinpoint. It happens only when the car is running and warmed up (pressure in the system). It dosen't leak when cold and sitting. Are leak stopper additives any good? Or, will such additives clog my radiator (fairly new) or ruin the water pump or thermostat?
View 17 RepliesWe began to have an issue today with our 2010 Elantra. While driving, the Check Engine, Check Coolant and EPS lights all came on. The engine then would not speed up but run slow. The tachometer stopped working.
It was coming into our neighborhood, so we got it to our house. After checking around under the hood (fluid levels, etc.), all looked good. Then we noticed that the mats and carpet are wet up under the dashboard on both the driver and passenger sides. When I reached up into the dashboard over the wet areas, I feel water all along the wiring, etc.
I am guessing that water has leaked in somewhere, maybe after the rain storm last night. We have had the car two years and less than 15K miles. Why and where water would be coming in?
I have a antifreeze leak at the rear of the engine. You can see it dripping on the ground. After looking for I was unable to find a leak.
View 1 RepliesI've got some dripping of antifreeze on my 2000 Explorer. I figured maybe I'd try a recommended "stop-leak" product...
View 14 RepliesLately my car has a super slow take off in the morning. Granted I let it marginally warm up. But it takes such a long time as I am trying to merge into highway traffic. The RPM thingee slowly climbs up to 4 before it shifts. The gas pedal is to the floor. Hope this isn't a pricey transmission issue.
View 8 RepliesNoticed this leak today a few days after parking the Ex (V10) -- not a daily driver. Crawled under the Ex and checked under the hood but I could not find an obvious sign of where the leak is coming from.
I checked the coolant plastic reservoir and its on MIN -- I believe that where it should be when the engine is cold. I noticed that these trucks do not have a cap directly on the radiator. That plastic reservoir, is that where I would top off the coolant?
Is there a spot on these engines where it would commonly leak? Should I try to put some dye on the coolant and/or possibly pressure test it?
Son in law just bought a 2002 Explorer with the 4.0. Looks in pretty good shape and overall I don't think he got a bad deal. However....after a test drive I noticed an antifreeze smell. Got to poking around and it appears to be leaking directly below the thermostat housing and that whole manifold for lack of a better word. It's a bugger to get in there and really see what's leaking...doesn't appear to be any hoses but given the angle can't be really sure. I'm new to the Explorer and the 4.0. Is this anything peculiar to the Explorer/4.0? A known part problem? Something far worse?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 SCREW Eco-Boost with a build date in April 2011. I have a gravel driveway. When I first got the truck I noticed small dark spots in the gravel but attributed it to the A/C. I parked over some fresh snow the other night and found some fluid stain on the ground in the morning. It was kind of by the motor and then a little further back. It was the color of yellow/chartruse antifreeze but the truck has pink antifreeze in the overflow tank. What is going on?
View 7 Replies116000 miles 2005 sport trac, antifreeze leak possibly coming from the engine. I haven't been able to pinpoint the leak.
View 4 Replies'86 Ranger, 2.3L, Automatic transmission.
Been having a sputtering/rough running situation once warmed up, replaced every so often with open loop smooth running. Lately, have had several occasions where the truck stalls and will not restart after a hard right turn (fuel pump powers up, tho) After 30 or so minutes of repose, truck will restart and run.
Recent History:
During the last 1-1/2 years, had cylinder head rebuilt and reinstalled. Had to run it all winter w/o EGR tube attached because of bad fitting at exhaust manifold. Replaced the fitting last spring and replaced cat back exhaust system. Had manifold hole plugged with pipe plug all winter. Have had a diagnosis of poor compression in the past, have not rechecked compression since head rebuild, but did have a noticable increase in power.
Have checked base ignition timing and it is correct. Valve timing appears to be as it should be. Have not had the opportunity to check for spark during one of the breakdowns, since I had no tools and it was night time.
The codes:
Early in Fall, got 14, 21, 24, 34. The 14 particularly interested me, as it suggests ignition problems.
Just before pulling the distributor, I checked codes again; 14 had disappeared as did 34 (EGR issues I resolved above) but I still got 21 (coolant temp out of range) and 41 (no HEGO switch) So I left the distributor alone and replace the HEGO sensor and cleared codes.
Last code check, just got 21(coolant temp sensor voltage out of range) and 24(air charge or Vane air temp voltage out of range) There is very little heat on cold days, full radiator and I've "burped" the cylinder head on an incline more than once chasing trapped air.
I'm suspicious of the TIF module, since the stalling is after warm up and self corrects. It was replaced once perhaps 12 years ago.
Truck is running bad when first cranked in the morning, is bucking and running rough until warmed up, think the oil needs to be changed and which additive is better the archoil or Rev x?
View 14 RepliesI am mixed up in which fasteners I have to tighten to stop my antifreeze leak. For this, I got some pictures. Do I have to tighten these bolts? Or these? Is this the upper intake intake manifold?
I am just really lost and want to tighten the right bolts and find the torquing specs of the bolts. In the first picture, we can clearly see there is a leak there of what must be antifreeze. The stuff I have been loosing slowly over months.
2011 Super Duty, SB, 6.7, Lariat, SuperCab, FX4 Undercover hard bed cover, Ford bed mat, and mud flaps.Traded a 2003 Expedition with 100k miles on it. It was time for a new tow vehicle, I tow a 30 foot travel trailer.(7000 to 8000lbs) The dealer offered me a deal at invoice plus all of Ford's incentives, so I couldn't refuse.
I have about 1300 miles on it and it runs fine. I have been noticing a wet spot under the right front of the truck, checking today it looks like anti freeze leaking from above the air condition pump. It makes about a 3 inch diameter wet spot, the fluid recovery bottles are still at the correct cold coolant level. I couldn't get my hand in that space to find where it is leaking from.
Have a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
View 6 RepliesI bought a 1990 ranger with only 38000 miles on it from a online auction from boing aircraft. it never left the flight line and never even had a title. I picked it up from the airport and found out that it didn't have AC like they said, I was a little ticked but that isn't the main problem. When I drive it and it gets warmed up it leaks Tranny fluid from the front of the transmission. The engine does not overheat. It is a 4 cyl AOD automatic with a real thin radiator and a transmission cooler. Without AC the truck isn't the good deal I thought I was getting, and with a bad tranny this is becoming a big OOPS. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2010 F-150 FX4 SC 4x4 5.4l w/ automatic that has 52,000 miles on the clock give or take, unmodified with the only exception of a remote oil filter relocation unit.
I bought the truck with 48,000 on it and did not have this noise, I've had it back to the dealer and their best mechanic went for a ride with me and the noise was duplicated and the mechanic had the deer in the headlight look on his face and said he'd never heard anything like that before. I've searched the net for anything similar like this but have not found anything. The noise rears it's ugly head after the truck is warmed up and it first started around 55mph and went away at 65mph , then re-emerged at 75mph and left again at 82mph.
Tried the usual test things while noise was present first loading and unloading the steering left and right, (wheel bearing) no change. Next I applied the brakes (caliper rubbing) no change. Then I tried shifting to neutral (transmission or carrier bearing) no change. I also tried shifting into and out of 4x4 (transfer case) no change. If I speed up above those speeds or slow down below them, the noise disappears.
Recently... the noise seems to be more consistent and when it's present at 80mph and you let off the throttle, the noise is present all the way down to 55mph then magically goes away. The noise to me sounds like a vacuum leak in a rubber hose or a dry spinning shaft in a bushing, sort of a low hum that sounds like it's coming anywhere from the motor to the transmission area.
Radiator replaced 2 yrs. ago - required major rust cleanout; reservoir replaced shortly thereafter. Recently engine always hot, antifreeze disappearing, reservoir always looks rusty, nothing much coming out underneath, mechanic pressure tested and couldn't find a leak, told to watch for antifreeze in oil, none apparent. Now suddenly car ran hot, antifreeze came out of reservoir, cap replaced, still couldn't find leak. Today said head gasket blown. Repair head gasket, but can't guarantee wouldn't still have radiator problems. Suggested could try Blue Devil head gasket repair but may not work.
Is it worth :
(a) trying the Blue Devil;
(b) repairing the head gasket?
Or will I still have major repair needs with radiator etc.? I really can't afford even a cheap replacement car.
I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla, with about 175,000 miles, and recently the heating system has been acting up. About three weeks ago the heat started to be slow coming, even when the engine was warm, but after a bit of driving it would kick in. The blower would work the whole time, but it would blow cold, instead of hot. However, no even that amount of heat has subsided, and the blower only blows cold air. On top of that, within the last week or so the engine has begun to almost overheat early in driving, but settles down a bit after driving a few miles. What might be happening?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 diesel 6.7l. I have had this smell outside the front of the vehicle for months and so I took it finally to a dealer to solve the leak problem. They spent hours on it and eventually found a leak in a tube at the rear of the engine under the intake manifold and supposedly solved my problem. That was 2 weeks ago and I have driven about 300km.(180 miles) but the smell is still noticeable. How long should I wait before it goes away or should I return it to the dealer for further work?
View 6 RepliesStarted smelling antifreeze. Losing it towards the back of the engine, leaking onto the exhaust. Too hot to get underneath at the moment.
Heater core? Freeze plug? Head gasket? Other hose at the back of the engine?
It's nothing at the front. Not the radiator or either hose like I hoped it would be.
It's running fine. No noticeable compression loss. 273K miles.
Will check water level when cooled a bit. Overflow still has antifreeze in it.
I have a 2001 530i BMW experiencing an overheating problem. I replaced hoses, radiator, thermostat, water pump, alternator, both belts all of which went fine. However still loosing anti-freeze, it seems to be coming from under the intake manifold. Looking for step by step instructions on removing it to get to the problem?
View 5 Replies