Ford - Fusion :: Engine / Transmission Warning Lights Came On
Aug 4, 2012
A few weeks ago my 2008 Ford Fusion engine/transmission warning lights came on. I took my car to a local Ford dealer and they told me that my Bosch battery (made by Excide) leaked acid all over some electronic components. The leak came from the negative post terminal. There is spacing where the post goes into the battery. They first thought they could do the repairs under warranty, but since the battery caused the problem they could not get it approved. I now have Excide involved. I took pictures of the battery and engine compartment to show them the damage.
I put in a claim and now they are telling me that they want the battery shipped to them so that they can do some testing on it -- which could take 3 weeks. I'm not sure if I should allow them to have the battery. Once it out of my possession, I have nothing to challenge them on. However, I do understand why they want to look at it. I might not have a choice. Any thoughts? I'd prefer they send one of their reps to the dealer to look at the battery and the damage it caused. The rep can then report his findings back to the corporate office. I just can't believe the damage the acid caused. I never saw it coming. There were no signs. The car was sitting for 2 weeks in my garage while I was on vacation.
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My son has a 2006 Ford Fusion auto transmission, that he bought used. 6mths. after he bought it he started to have a problem w/the transmission. Runs fine on highway but when he would stop, then give it gas, it would not go and RPM's would race up then clunk into gear and go. He had it replaced by the same people w/a new rebuilt one. It seemed fine for a bit and all of a sudden it started again. Also now with a faint ticking sound when taking off. Problem is he is now on a trip across the country from NE. to Oregon He has made it their safely but i have been meaning to write. Transmission or something else?
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I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a 2.3 L engine and 110k miles that needs a new engine according to the dealer. The car was well taken care of with regular oil changes etc. My local mechanic says the supply of used engines for the Fusion is limited because of their extremely high failure rate. He is a one man shop that has done 6 Fusion replacement overs the past 2 weeks alone yet when I called Ford they claim there has not been unusual numbers of engine failures reported. In spite of this, the Ford dealer mechanic refers to it as a throw away engine.
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I have a 1994 F-250 XLT heavy duty model. No warning lights are on. A few times a month my transmission will start shifting hard, kicking into the next gear. The odd thing is, if I reset the computer it stops. Shifts smooth as butter. The fluid is a vibrant red and the fluid looks great like it's new. What is going on? I'm getting tired of having this happen. The truck has 108,500 miles on it.
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I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL. In late December, the check engine light came on (steady, not flashing). I took it to a local mechanic, as the nearest Ford dealership is a 45-minute drive away. He said an evap code came up indicating that there was a problem with the vent valve solenoid, not the capless fuel filler. However, he did not have the diagnostics to research it further.
As there have been problems with the vent valve solenoid, including a recall (for which we do not qualify), my husband bought and installed the part on Jan. 7. We both drove it several times since then, and the check engine light stayed off. But when I drove it today (Jan. 11), the light was back on.
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This has happened to me twice (just today and about a month ago). The first time I was just sitting in the car, turned it off. It was hot outside so I just hit the power button without my foot on the break to start up the air conditioner. After a few minutes, a message pops up on the screen saying something about the transmission couldn't put the car in park and to park it on a level surface. I was on a level surface. I tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. After several tries, including inserting the key fob in the slot it finally started.
Today, I had almost the same scenario, only I was just returning to the car. Four warning lights came on, the parking break light was on (even those it wasn't engaged), and again the transmission message came up, saying I should move the car to a flat surface. After fiddling around, I got the car started again and immediately went to the Toyota dealership. I was just there yesterday getting an oil change and a once over safely check before I head back north which is a total of 24 hours of driving over several days.
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Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
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09 Ford Fusion, 5-sd manual, 37k. For the past week or so I've noticed after exiting the highway and stopping at the bottom of the ramp the engine will idle high. When I shift into neutral to wait at the light it idles at about 1,500 - 1,800 rpm. I will slowly drop to about 1,000 rpm and quickly drop from that to 750 rpm which is the normal idle. When getting off the ramp yesterday I put it in neutral while coasting and not touching the gas pedal, clutch or anything, the idle went from 1,500 to 2,000 rpm. Driving around town it seems normal, and the car drives normally with no issues on the highway up until I stop. What could be causing the weird idle issue?
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Ford Focus Station Wagon 2006 - Seems to have electrical problem. Warning lights for check engine and ABS come on randomly. Also when car is parked and temperature is low, Clock time is lost and radio stations are lost. Is there some type of grounding issue?
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I bought my 2010 Prius IV Solar/Nav pkg in Febrary 2011. I've got just over 10k on the odometer. Aside from the persistent rattle/clatter/clank noise over bumps that these cars seem to be famous for, I've had no issues. That is, until last Thursday. The temps here in Indiana have dropped substantially so I was driving in town with the windows down, sunroof open. About two miles after leaving the office, I turned a corner and the car suddenly seemed like it went from running on 4cyl to running on 2 cyl. No warning lights came up on the dash, but the car was definitely shuddering/struggling to pick up speed, and was obviously running very rough. It felt worse when I was accelerating, but I think it may have even been doing it when I let off the accelerator.
This continued for approximately two or three blocks until I parked the car & powered down. After debating what to do (call a tow truck, confer with SafetyConnect, etc.) I decided to try & move the car again. Of course, it was as if nothing had happened. No warning lights were on & the car seemed to be performing normally. Since then, I've had no issues.
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My gas cap warning light came on this morning, I thought I would fill the car in case the cap is loose. After the car was refulled to the max, the car just started, spluttered for a few seconds as if it was going to stall, then after a quick rev it ran fine to the office. The gas cap light went out, but just before I got to work the check engine light has come on.
Is this a sensor breaking down or something serious?? I only have 16k miles
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I'm driving to work this morning and a bunch of warning lights came on. I was going uphill and the car wouldnt accelerate, the engine was revving up and my presses on the gas pedal didnt seem to be doing anything. I had to pull over a couple of times after shutting the car off and letting it cool down. Each time the car would eventually display the loss of power (would not accelerate, and engine seemed to be revving high with no input felt from gas pedal). Shutting off car and turning back on would cause this to go away.
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This afternoon my 2007 made a long beep, popped up the red brake, traction control, ! triangle, ABS, VSC and check engine lights. It followed up by the gas engine cutting out and we had to coast to a shady spot (over 112 degrees at the time). After we pushed it into a parking spot we tried to turn the car on and off and it wouldn't allow us to change it to drive or reverse.
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Bought a new Prius in 2005. In April 2010 (157,000km / 98000m) the triangle and engine icons warning lights came on. After about two weeks in the workshop, I was informed that the main battery went. Two months later (161,000km) the same warning lights came on again. Toyota agents informed me that now it is the water pump not circulating water through the engine. Toyota on its website states that the batteries should last the entire life of the vehicle. Is it possible that battery problem was wrongly diagnosed, and, that in fact, it was the water pump giving the problem in the first place?
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199k on my prius. I'm driving 65 mph and bam! All warning lights come on, PROBLEM, comes up on the mfd, and the mfd had a funky little broken cat symbol light in the top left corner.
I lose engine power and coast to a stop. As I'm coasting the speed display stops showing my speed... even though the rest of the gouges are lit on the display. While parked I realize I have very little 12v battery juice....
With a jumper pack on the front terminals I get the cat home. I ser on the display the my hv battery is stuck at one bar.
At home I charge the 12v battery and get the hv battery fully charged by holding the gas down in drive with foot on the brake. My Toyota mechanic told me to do that. All warning lights go away. I leave a jumper pack on the battery in the rear and take for another test drive. Car is better but still sluggish... Try to get it up to 50 mph and bam! again all warning lights return.
So I get the car to toyota dealer and and my guy reads the codes and tells me every ecu is showing codes abs recommends 12v battery replacement. He clears the codes. So I buy a brand new battery and after installing it all warning lights return on test ride. Car won't do over 50 mph and is def still a mess.....
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2006 Gen II Prius with 105k miles. Last Thursday while driving, all the warning lights came on. Saturday we replaced the main battery pack in the back. The 12V battery seemed OK at the time and the car ran a few days successfully.
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So I was driving for a couple of hours today in my recently acquired 2001 Prius, when the red warning triangle and the check engine lights came on. The car seemed to still drive fine (70 ish mph cruising). HV Battery? P3000 P3020 Error codes.....
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The vehicle: 2007 Tundra, 5.7, 4WD, SR5, 71K miles
The issue: The Check Engine, VSC and 4LO indicators came on abruptly within 5 minutes of the first start-up of the day and after driving ~ 1/2 mile on paved road. Weather conditions: high humidity and unseasonable high ambient temperature.
What has been done: Immediately returned home. My local "guy" stopped by with his code checker. Codes that came up: C10201 and P2440 (Wheel sensor and secondary air pump, I am unsure which is which). Codes were cleared, indicators went off. Within 0.2 mile of driving "around the block" the same indicators and codes came on. My local guy recommended a trip to the dealer for repair as he would have to get sensors/parts from Toyota and be replacing sensors until the problem was repaired (I respect him for that).
The question: what is the guesstimated cost for dealer repair? The truck can be operated in a "failure" mode and can get to the local dealer under it's own (reduced) power.
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I was driving last night and my car Triangle Warning Light and Check Engine Light Went on along with on the nav screen a car with a ! mark in it came on. On The info screen the battery level was changing fast from fully charged to just about empty. The car lost almost all power going about 42 miles an hour. I was able to pull to the side and i waited 10 minutes then tried to turn the car on again. I was able to drive home and the warning lights were still on but at least my car had power. What could possible be wrong?
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I have a 2009 Prius with about 72k miles on it. Today, after about 45 minutes of highway driving, these lights all came on: master warning, the "check" indicator, VSC, the circle brake indicator, and the hybrid system warning on the multifunctional display.
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As far as the owner can tell, the car is running fine. He hasn't driven it aside from getting home after the light came on. It seems to give a very informative error message. What it's saying?
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