Ford - Fusion :: Auto Transmission - Faint Ticking Sound When Taking Off
Jul 19, 2011
My son has a 2006 Ford Fusion auto transmission, that he bought used. 6mths. after he bought it he started to have a problem w/the transmission. Runs fine on highway but when he would stop, then give it gas, it would not go and RPM's would race up then clunk into gear and go. He had it replaced by the same people w/a new rebuilt one. It seemed fine for a bit and all of a sudden it started again. Also now with a faint ticking sound when taking off. Problem is he is now on a trip across the country from NE. to Oregon He has made it their safely but i have been meaning to write. Transmission or something else?
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2005 6.0 SuperDuty ... I was driving my truck on the freeway, no issues. Started hearing a very faint ticking sound, then the engine died. Pulled off to the side. tried to start it, and it turned over very rapidly, with no compression. I'm thinking "Timing Gear".
Had it towed to a Ford dealership near the incident. I told them what i thought it may be, and the mechanic thought it "May be possible". not very confidently....
I authorized them to remove the engine, and look. Sure enough, the gears were toast. This is the difficult part.
The service manager is a young kid, (I can tell from talking to him a hundred times on the phone), and is telling me "My Cam(s) are ruined, and the valves are bent, because the metal from the gears went through the motor. I told him to stop. put the truck outside, and wait. So, I have a couple of questions. other than i don't have Cam(s).
1. Is the 6.0 a clearance type motor? (will the valves impact the pistons, if the timing gears fail).
2. Will the metal from the timing gears get into the motor, or fall into the oil pan?
There were no loud noises, when the engine died. I had the engine bullet proofed at 101,000 miles, it now has 250,000. The truck is still solid, so worth fixing?
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I have had my Tiguan about a month ago and it has started getting cold. I noticed that when taking a right turn at a stop sign, there is a very faint clicking noise (sounds like it is coming from the front left wheel). On my way home today, I turned right at a yield and the road was a little bumpy. When turning right, I heard a clunking noise coming from the same area. It does not always make this noise. The car is under warranty, but I am afraid if I take it to the dealership, they will just tell me they couldn't find anything.
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A few weeks ago my 2008 Ford Fusion engine/transmission warning lights came on. I took my car to a local Ford dealer and they told me that my Bosch battery (made by Excide) leaked acid all over some electronic components. The leak came from the negative post terminal. There is spacing where the post goes into the battery. They first thought they could do the repairs under warranty, but since the battery caused the problem they could not get it approved. I now have Excide involved. I took pictures of the battery and engine compartment to show them the damage.
I put in a claim and now they are telling me that they want the battery shipped to them so that they can do some testing on it -- which could take 3 weeks. I'm not sure if I should allow them to have the battery. Once it out of my possession, I have nothing to challenge them on. However, I do understand why they want to look at it. I might not have a choice. Any thoughts? I'd prefer they send one of their reps to the dealer to look at the battery and the damage it caused. The rep can then report his findings back to the corporate office. I just can't believe the damage the acid caused. I never saw it coming. There were no signs. The car was sitting for 2 weeks in my garage while I was on vacation.
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion AWD and noticed a humming noise as I was driving last night. It started when I got near 50mph and seemed to stop or get so quiet as to be not noticeable when I got to 40 or put the breaks on. What this might be?
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My 2010 fusion radio sound quality isn't as good as when car was new. Also seems to vary on certain days. Has any one had problems with their Sony factory system & what was the fix?
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What to do 2011 F550 RampTruck 11,850 miles on it the vehicle has been back to the dealer 5 times for the same trouble code P0299. After the last time it was in they had it for 2 weeks seemed to be fixed. Last week one of my drivers was towing a Chevy S10 50 or so miles and heard a very faint ticking like a stone in the tire that got instantly worse and before he could pull over started rapping and stalled out. We towed it back to the dealer they removed the Cab disassembled the engine and found a "blown piston" is there quote. What should we do about this problem the dealer is supposedly fighting with Ford and Ford doesn't want to put in a new engine.They want to fix it instead....
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion SE 2.3L 4 cylinder. It has approximately 94,000 miles on it. I purchased new Sumitomo tires with a 100,000 mile warranty in February of this year. They were balanced and aligned at the time of install. So far they have been very smooth and quiet with great grip. About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise that sounds like uneven tire wear, a sort of rhythmic rubbing or wobble sound that increases in frequency as the speed increases. It is most noticeable at speeds between 30 and 50mph. I rotate the tires every other other change (at least twice a year) and had the alignment done again in late October. I am hoping that there is nothing wrong with my virtually brand new tires. Is there anything else it could likely be?
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I have a 2009 XLT 4x4 and it has a faint squeal sound coming from somewhere. I can only hear it with the window open driving between 20 to 50 Kph after that road noise is too loud. First thing in the morning it is not there seems you need to drive for 10 to 20 Km before it starts.
Turning right it gets louder left it seems to go away. Braking has no effect on the sound.
I have warmed it up in the morning and it still takes the same distance to squeal. Had it in the dealer and they changed out a front wheel bearing but that did not fix the problem. Had them service the brakes to rule that out too.
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
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I've had a 1999 explorer for a few months. The transmission has always taken a couple of seconds to "catch" in drive and was then fine. Today, I had to tow another car a short distance and now going into drive directly is useless.
I must shift into 2nd and then back into drive. Then, for the most part, the car drives fine unless I have to put it in Park or in Reverse. Then I must repeat the procedure.
The fluid is fresh and the dipstick shows a slight overfill. Is there anything I can do about this or is this the death of the transmission. If I can run it another couple of years, I'd be satisfied.
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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I have noticed this rubbing, not quite grinding sound/vibration when I take off and turn. For instance pulling out of a parking lot and turning either left or right. Truck will do it only after it's been driven a while. I originally thought it was just the limited slip ratcheting but recently just changed the rear axle fluid adding Amsoil this time. I did not add any friction modifier because I didn't think the Amsoil needed it. So after going on a 500 mile trip I find it is still doing it. The truck sits at the stock ride height and has stock size wheels and tires on it. What it could be ? It only happens in the turn, not while driving straight. It still sounds like the differential but just want to be sure.
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My 2000 explorer has picked up a clutch chatter when taking off with the wheels turned. It is AWD, and has an 8.8" LS rear end with and 173k on the clock. Is there any good way to tell where the chatter is coming from? I know how to check the TC clutch, but it requires dropping one of the driveshafts.
I may try changing the rear diff lube, as I am sure it's never been done. They say "lube for life" but no fluid can last forever, I would think.
Also, on that note... a couple years ago I had a pinion seal leaking and the shop said it was 2 quarts low when they fixed it and said "rear diff damage has probably already occurred" on the ticket. While that is possible i suppose, would think i would have major problems right away as the diff only holds 2.5 qts (IIRC). Least wise, that was probably 50k miles ago when I had it fixed.
More than likely, the mechanic was an idiot and it was only .5 qts low, as i'm 99% sure that they left the pinion nut loose when he did the job. (had a terrible vibration that mysteriously went away when i brought it back for them to find out what is going on .. they said they didn't do anything, but it was fixed when i got it back ... they don't get my business anymore)
Anyway ... would i be able to feel that clutch chatter with one rear wheel in the air and the trans in neutral? Assuming the worst case scenario, and the TC clutch is going out, how big of a deal is it? Can i get another 20K-30K out of it before it gives up the ghost?
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1991 4x4 f250 idi w e4od w 3:55 ratio... The truck is slow to engage in reverse, about 5-10 sec. It also has a very hard shift 1-2. All other shift points are good. Drop down is good, and TC lock up happens at all the right points (feels like anyway).
I've had the truck for about 2 years now, replaced several sensors an harnesses and a full fluid change to solve other problems but this still remains.
Sometimes when I start it in the morning if I let it sit and idle for a few min it will engage reverse much quicker AND shifts way smoother and constant. Shifts smoothly thro all gears, holding a constant 1800-2000 rpms with no drop or lug. Or do I need a rebuild?
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Wonder if its dry driveshaft slip splines? Only happens when leaving a dead stop under hard acceleration. Hard to describe sound, but seems to be coming from behind me, almost sounds like 2 broken pieces of steel snapping past each other. frame is o.k., leaf springs are o.k. , doesn't do it when shifting between gears or if I gently take off from a stop. I don't think there's a grease fitting for the driveshaft where the splines are (where the 2 piece shaft takes up slack for being loaded or unloaded) may have to take that apart once the weather breaks and see what i find. my 1st ranger never had this issue after 200K miles. this truck is now at 145K but its almost 20 years old. I've read somewhere before about pulling the shaft apart & greasing the splines up. does this sound like a possibility for whats happening? not sure what else it could be.
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The Truck: 2011, 250, 4x4, Super Cab, 6' box, 6.2 with 6R140, currently 40K miles. It did have an 8' plow on it. An 80 year old gent plowed his personal 200' driveway with it for 2 winters before I bought it. You can tell the truck was taken care of, or I wouldn't have purchased it. I have all the service records. He had his local dealer do all of it. Plow and all the controls were removed prior to my purchase.
Scenario: Trucks cold (summer ambient). Driveway has a grade down to road. Doesn't matter if I am nosed or backed in. Start up, back/pull out of driveway on to flat road, and very slowly take off. The 1-2 shift produces a lose thunk sound and sensation, very faint not loud. Almost Like a lose motor mount. Only will do it once, only on the first start and 1-2 upshift. Ive tried to reproduce it after the first occurrence, no luck. If you gas it under the same circumstances it wont do it.
It doesn't necessarily feel like an internal trans problem. More of a "somethings just lose enough to shift or move" problem. Sounds like somethings hitting the frame, core support, cab floor on this slow 1-2 up-shift. Its upfront passenger side. I've spent several hours under it looking for lose items witness rub marks etc...to no avail
Again it only does it after it sits or upon the first start in the AM or when leaving work PM. Not when its warm.
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When we were driving our Touareg from the dealer, I (my dad did not notice) noticed that there was a faint whistling sound coming from the car. This happened on surface streets, not freeways, and about 35-40 MPH. Sunroof and windows were closed.
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So I drove my R kinda hard today (nothing more than i have in the past ) but i am now getting a knocking sound. It is faint when I am at idle and get a bit louder around 2-3k, then the exhaust over takes it. i checked and have oil.. but it is making the knock as if it were low.
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Just noticed a faint sound at idle when the car is not moving. I think I traced it down to the serpentine tensioner. Will take it to the dealer tomorrow and will update. Serpentine belt tensioner noise? 30k, stock car.
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I recently encountered a problem with my treg's alarm. There usually is a very audible signal/tone when you lock the car. But now, I can barely hear it anymore. I even tried the PANIC button but the alarm is so faint. What can be causing this and where is the alarm/siren located?
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