Ford - Fusion :: 2012 V6 - MPG So Inconsistent?
Jul 5, 2016
I have a 2012 Ford Fusion with a V6 and record my mileage & fuel info every time I fill up. For the first 45,000 miles I was getting 26mpg consistently every time I filled up, around 45,00 miles it started hopping around. Some fills I get as low as 20mpg others I get up to 33mpg. Over several fill-ups it is averaging close to 27mpg for the past year, but the volatility concerns me. I haven't seen something like this on past vehicles and not sure what it could be.
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I have a 2012 Ford Fusion SEL. In late December, the check engine light came on (steady, not flashing). I took it to a local mechanic, as the nearest Ford dealership is a 45-minute drive away. He said an evap code came up indicating that there was a problem with the vent valve solenoid, not the capless fuel filler. However, he did not have the diagnostics to research it further.
As there have been problems with the vent valve solenoid, including a recall (for which we do not qualify), my husband bought and installed the part on Jan. 7. We both drove it several times since then, and the check engine light stayed off. But when I drove it today (Jan. 11), the light was back on.
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I have a real puzzler on my hands. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a manual transmission. Its only got around 70K miles on it, since i was not driving it much for the first couple of years after purchase. Around the fall of last year, i was noticing that the car would make a creaking noise, and with time i was noticing it more. The "creaking" only is heard when the car comes to a stop and takes off (like in bumper to bumper traffic). So when the car is normal speed, i dont hear any noise regardless of putting on the brakes.
I have also noticed that the noise would only come during the afternoons (after my car had been sitting in a hot parking lot). In the morning, the car sounds normal and has no "funny" sounds, due the fact that I park my car in a cool garage overnight. The car drives normal no matter the heat conditions, but the noise can be very annoying. I have also recently noticed that you can sometimes hear this noise when people get in their seats of the car.
I have tried to take my car to a mechanic, but they can not find what is wrong. (Unfortunately, I have only been available to take the car in the mornings, so they of course can not hear a problem). The bearings all check out fine, and doesnt appear to be the shocks. My father also knows alot about cars, and this is really stumping him. The only that he noticed is that the engine mount was cracked, so we got that replaced. We were hoping that this would solve the problem, as he guessed that the "creak" was of the engine shifting. This did not solve the problem, but I am glad that we got it taken care of. As far as I can tell, the sound seems to be coming from the front center of the car, and not from a particular wheel.
During the winter here in Houston, I have not heard the noise, but now that its heating up; the "creak" has reared its ugly head again. What can i do?
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I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with a 2.3 L engine and 110k miles that needs a new engine according to the dealer. The car was well taken care of with regular oil changes etc. My local mechanic says the supply of used engines for the Fusion is limited because of their extremely high failure rate. He is a one man shop that has done 6 Fusion replacement overs the past 2 weeks alone yet when I called Ford they claim there has not been unusual numbers of engine failures reported. In spite of this, the Ford dealer mechanic refers to it as a throw away engine.
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The blower and A/C on my 2006 Ford Fusion keeps turning on and off. The system has manual knobs and is not computerized. It turns on just for a few seconds and then turns off. The knob that controls the turning on and off of the system is in the off position when this happens. What could be causing this?
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My daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
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I have an '07 Ford Fusion with 94,000 miles. The check engine light came on a couple of days ago, so I took it to a shop to have them pull the codes on it. The code that came up said the coolant was not reaching the proper temperature, and the mechanic told me the thermostat should probably be replaced.Two questions:
1. Should I go ahead and get it done, or wait and see if the check engine light comes back on? I usually only drive the vehicle about 10 miles a day, and it's all city driving.
2. What kind of cost should I be looking at? He said it would be a system flush, replacing the coolant and thermostat (which they would get from a dealer).
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My daughter has a 2007 Ford Fusion with brake issues. Brakes are squishy after the car is "jarred" (i.e. hits a bump or pothole). The brakes go almost all the way to the floor and return to normal after a driving for a while. All the work described below has been performed by Ford dealers (at great expense): Master Cylinder replaced, all brake pads replaced. Brakes have been bled numerous times. When we bring it in they bleed it and say it's fine, next "bump" and the problem comes back. We're really at our wits end, the car is, at many times, scary to drive.
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My cars thermostat runs normal all the time unless I go up hill. I drive into the mountains to work every day. It runs about 80% hot until I crest the mountain and then immediately cools back down to normal. Since its winter no air conditioning running but heat is on at times. Only 37000 miles on car. Automatic transmission.
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The power steering fails. Turning the engine off and restarting reactivates the power steering.....
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A few weeks ago my 2008 Ford Fusion engine/transmission warning lights came on. I took my car to a local Ford dealer and they told me that my Bosch battery (made by Excide) leaked acid all over some electronic components. The leak came from the negative post terminal. There is spacing where the post goes into the battery. They first thought they could do the repairs under warranty, but since the battery caused the problem they could not get it approved. I now have Excide involved. I took pictures of the battery and engine compartment to show them the damage.
I put in a claim and now they are telling me that they want the battery shipped to them so that they can do some testing on it -- which could take 3 weeks. I'm not sure if I should allow them to have the battery. Once it out of my possession, I have nothing to challenge them on. However, I do understand why they want to look at it. I might not have a choice. Any thoughts? I'd prefer they send one of their reps to the dealer to look at the battery and the damage it caused. The rep can then report his findings back to the corporate office. I just can't believe the damage the acid caused. I never saw it coming. There were no signs. The car was sitting for 2 weeks in my garage while I was on vacation.
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The check fuel inlet light went on. Should we be concerned? What does this mean?
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I've noticed in the past couple of days that when my Fusion is fully warmed up and stopped at a traffic light I'll feel a short rocking forward-backward. Almost like a bunch of guys are pushing on the car from behind. Sometimes, if it is really bad, I'll even seen the RPMs dip a little bit.
I was thinking that it might be motor mounts causing the sensation. But what would be making the engine dip idle RPM?
Additional info: 138k miles on it and transmission fluid was last changed at about 80k. Plugs changed at 100k. New air filter installed a couple weeks ago.
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I have a 2006 Ford Fusion SE (2.3L 4-cyl.) 5-speed Manual, with 280,000 miles on it. It's been a great car with very little repairs, etc. I've noticed a little oil on the driveway - nothing big, but certainly consistent. At my last oil change, they told me I had a leak in the crankshaft seal and that I should take it to an engine shop. I'm not a 'do it yourself' kind of person when it comes to big repairs. I'd love to keep the car going another year... If I don't fix it, should I avoid oil changes? The leak doesn't seem bad and it doesn't drive any different.
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Inconsistent connection through 7 wire plug and no taillights on four wire plug.
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I have a 2004 F-150 5.4 Liter 4X4 supercrew with 6" lift and 35" tires. The truck has 123K miles on it. I am the second owner of the truck. In early fall the truck started making what I can only describe as a mild and inconsistent "stutter" upon accelerating between 40-50 MPH. It does not do it all of the time and really depends on the speed at which you accelerate. Sometimes it will happen between 50-55 MPH but primarily it is between 40-50. If you accelerate quickly though at that speed, it rarely ever happens.
Anyways, I changed the fuel filter (pretty sure it was the original as it was nasty and had chunks falling out of it), flushed the fuel injector system at a shop, gassed it up and treated the tank with fuel treatment, and removed the AIRRAID air filter, cleaned it out (blew out with air, flushed with water, dried and re-oiled it). The truck had A LOT more power behind it, my fuel mileage increased and for about a day, this stuttering did not occur. It has now started up again.
My question is whether or not this could be caused by old spark plugs or is it a transmission issue? The truck runs great otherwise. We've looked at the plugs and they appear to be the original plugs. I bought the truck with about 100K on it and have put the rest of the miles on myself. I'm trying to figure out if it is an issue with the plugs or if it is related to the automatic transmission as I'm sure the fluid hasn't been changed in it either. I know I'm going to have to do both but want to know what is more likely the issue at hand.
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Most of the time, my speedometer needle is steady and in the right spot. But once in a while, it will indicate several mph too high, along with some slight fluctuation. The tach and the GPS speed remain steady. What would cause this? I would think that a worn component would cause it to indicate low or bounce around all the time. Also, where would I get a speedo drive gear with a different number of teeth, since I have 31-in. tires? I look on parts store websites and don't see any drive gears. 1994 Explorer..
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion AWD and noticed a humming noise as I was driving last night. It started when I got near 50mph and seemed to stop or get so quiet as to be not noticeable when I got to 40 or put the breaks on. What this might be?
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First, I should say that my Fusion has an EPAS (Electronic Power Assist Steering) which means that there is no hydraulic pump but rather an electric motor which provides the assistance to the steering system.
In January I had the "Service Power Steering Now" indication on the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) as well and an AdvanTrac (Ford's traction control system) light. Also, the power steering was not operational even after restarting the car and disconnecting the battery. I did some reading online and found that corrosion on the battery cable can cause this issue. It turns out that my battery cable had actually cracked in one place from excessive corrosion and was beyond repair. So, I ordered a new harness and changed the entire cable. Even after the cable was replaced the fault didn't clear and the power steering was not available which makes driving quite the workout.
I took the car to the Ford dealership to have the computer reset. The first several mechanics didn't know what to do. Eventually, someone pulled an old grey bearded man resembling Santa Claus from the back who was able to hook up a laptop and reset the computer. When I restarted the car the faults were gone and the power steering worked!
It is now August. Yesterday the exact same thing happened, loss of power steering the the above faults returned. I took a peak at the battery terminal and it is corroded over again! This time it didn't crack, so a good cleaning should suffice. I spent several hours cleaning the terminals with battery cleaner and a wire brush mounted on a Dremel tool. I took the car back to the Ford dealership and got a lot of disbelief from the guys at the shop. Of course, Santa had gone back north for the winter not to return for several weeks. After much debate, I agreed to leave the car for diagnostics ($85).
Ford called back and wants to replace the entire steering gear which has the EPAS motor mounted to it for $1800. I'm pretty sure that they just need to reset the computer (a 3 minute job) so I'm having a hard time agreeing to drop that kind of cash. So, the questions are as follows:
Was my initial fix a good fix? Why don't these faults clear automatically when the problem is cleared (assuming my battery fix was correct)? How do I go about getting my computer reset? -Do shops other than the dealership have the ability to do this? -How much does the equipment cost to do this myself/what would I need?
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My 2010 Fusion SE has 44,500 miles on it. It is the 4cyl. model with a 6 speed manual transmission. I have had the oil changed every 4-5,000 miles, never had any issues. Today when I went in to get the oil changed the guy told me a synthetic blend is required, and he wanted to charge me an extra 20 bucks for the oil change. I looked up in owners man. and it says SAE 5W20 and some Ford nomenclature for the minimum requirements for quality, etc. My question is this, why haven't any of my other oil changes required an up charge to a more expensive oil? I would have noticed. Does this car really need synthetic blend, and if so, is it really better than conventional oil? Have my previous oil changed damaged the car?
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My 2010 fusion radio sound quality isn't as good as when car was new. Also seems to vary on certain days. Has any one had problems with their Sony factory system & what was the fix?
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