Our 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid has been great and trouble free. Recently, however, we've noticed a strong smell,like fiberglass, come from the A/C when starting from a cold engine.
View 4 RepliesMy 2006 Ford Fusion SE V6 has trouble starting in cold weather. Once it starts, it's fine throughout the day, but once it sits a long time, like overnight, it has trouble starting in the morning. If it had a carburetor, I'd say the choke wasn't working. The dealership couldn't figure it out a few years back. I even tried a new battery and that didn't work. Is there a sensor that detects cold weather and increases fuel flow or chokes off air flow for richer starting mixture that could be failing?
View 12 RepliesWe have gotten a record breaking amount of snow this winter and it has been tough on the smaller vehicles. The last couple days my car has developed an odd issue. When I start the car and it is not warmed up as in there is only one bar on the engine temp meter, I put the car into reverse but don't take my foot off the brakes and the car starts to vibrate strongly. Once it's warmed up to a few bars it operates normally. I know the brakes have some ice on them too but that is a different matter, also there is snow/ice packed into the underside due to the amount of snow on the roads here.
Car is currently parked in my garage with the heater heater on so hopefully it can melt some of the junk from the underside by tomorrow.
We've had a run of -20 to -40 weather here for the past few weeks.
A few weeks back I noticed that when I climbed into my truck after command-start warm up for 10 minutes, and I could smell strong exhaust.
I figured it was hopefully the wind, or an isolated event.
Over the past few weeks I've used my truck for 3-4 more around town runs and every time I warm it up I get the strong exhaust smell. It's that rich, eye watering, sickening exhaust smell. I also notice a small yellow frozen puddle under the exhaust tips that wasn't there before.
It's bad in the cab, but even walking around outside the truck and the smell is sickening. I actually just started the truck and I could actually smell the exhaust smell faintly, from inside my house! This has never before occurred. Prior to this, a person could hardly tell it was a diesel by the smell of the exhaust.
Once the truck is up to temperature the smell seems to disappear, or at least lessen.
Every time I start this car there is a strong smell of gasoline. I've already checked for leaks and didn't find any. Could this be caused by the fuel canister in the rear of the vehicle this has gone bad?
View 2 Replies2001 Pontiac Bonneville. 135000 miles. Running well. Only in the morning for about 10 minutes after starting and riding there is a strong burning smell. Don't see any leaks.
View 7 RepliesWhenever it's cold outside (I live in MN, so it gets really, really cold), my car fills up with a very strong gas odor. It only happens when I am at a stop as well. I have taken it in, and have been told that nothing is wrong. The smell is so strong that I have to roll down the windows and my friends are refusing to ride in my car! I am worried that it's dangerous.
It's a Pontiac Grand Am from 2005. 102,000 miles, roughly.
2004 V8 - ~62k did the 60k service about 2 months ago. No other problems other than tpms not liking 50 degree swings in temperature. Haven't really had time to examine it, but wife left work this morning at -18F said she was getting a weird smell, no lights, a little smoke when she was stopped. I thought nothing of it.
Went to the garage to leave for work and it was like a dingy night club, fog/smoke everywhere and a strong smell of burning oil. Its supposed to warm up to 20 or so tomorrow, so I'm hoping whatever started leaking seals up.
I'm going to take my Elantra in to get it checked. My Elantra is a 2013, got it in March. Over the last few weeks, I would say, on 4 days or so there has been a STRONG exhaust smell. No smoke, nothing else but a smell. If I'm pulling into the garage with no idling, just pull in and park, I get out and the smell in the garage is very strong. I have to leave the garage open for at least an hour if not more to air it out. The cab ends up having a light smell inside the next day still.
If I'm parking outside when I get out I can still smell it, but not quite as strong, because I'm not in an enclosed area. I don't think it's an exhaust manifold leak, because I don't hear the popping. My best guess is it would be in the tail pipe area pre-catalytic converter, or in the catalytic converter if it is in fact an exhaust leak.
I have a 2010 Prius and it has developed a very strong mold smell/odor. It is strongest when the car has been sitting with the windows up. I have tried many of the tips in the forum regarding not using the recirc mode. I've clean the car inside and out, mats, carpeting, every compartment.
I have talked to the dealer parts counter and replaced the cabin air filter with the carbon filter and used the 2 can treatment that Toyota sells (one in the a/c drain x2 and the other in the air intake.). No joy.
I took it to the service department they did the same thing - again, no joy.
They have asked me to bring it back for, and I quote, "exploratory surgery." I asked if this the covered under the Toyota Certified Warranty. He could not confirm that it would be covered.
I recently had a turbo installed, everything went well, car runs very smooth considering having just upgraded the turbo. However, I keep noticing a strong smell coming from the engine bay. Kind of like a gas like smell or some chemical. At first I thought it was the loctite we used to put the gaskets in place burning off or the coating of the turbo but it has been a week and it still smells. I do not have a check engine light, my vacuum is right on the money, I am boosting fine, and my temperature gauge hasnt moved. What could this be? exhaust leak maybe?
View 6 RepliesMy wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
Our 1994 Suburu Legacy runs on Petrol or LPG. For some unknown reason, there is a strong petrol smell in the car. When this happens, the car will eventually stop and the engine stops. There is power, but the engine will not start. Several minutes and many attempts later later, it starts. What may be happening?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 and after it sits for a day especially when it's warm the AC vents put out a moldy smell when starting. I've heard all the ideas of Turing off AC before shouting down engine but that shouldn't required for a Lexus of all cars. The dealer ran a refresh we thru the systems that worked for a few days but that was it. I've never had this problem with my 2004 RX. I also replaced the cabin filter with a charcoal based one. Seems a $45,000 vehicle shouldn't have this type of problem
View 14 RepliesMy daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
View 3 RepliesThe power steering fails. Turning the engine off and restarting reactivates the power steering.....
View 1 RepliesI've noticed in the past couple of days that when my Fusion is fully warmed up and stopped at a traffic light I'll feel a short rocking forward-backward. Almost like a bunch of guys are pushing on the car from behind. Sometimes, if it is really bad, I'll even seen the RPMs dip a little bit.
I was thinking that it might be motor mounts causing the sensation. But what would be making the engine dip idle RPM?
Additional info: 138k miles on it and transmission fluid was last changed at about 80k. Plugs changed at 100k. New air filter installed a couple weeks ago.
After I've been driving a bit and stop at a red light, drive thru, etc. I've noticed a strong gas smell. I drive with my windows down so I really notice it. I've searched all over the car and can't see any leaking. In addition to this, after I shut the car off for 20-30 minutes, when I re-start it, it runs really rough like its flooded until it clears itself out, along with the gas smell. The consensus seemed to be that its the pressure regulator/vacuum line. Where exactly is that located?
View 10 RepliesFirst, I should say that my Fusion has an EPAS (Electronic Power Assist Steering) which means that there is no hydraulic pump but rather an electric motor which provides the assistance to the steering system.
In January I had the "Service Power Steering Now" indication on the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) as well and an AdvanTrac (Ford's traction control system) light. Also, the power steering was not operational even after restarting the car and disconnecting the battery. I did some reading online and found that corrosion on the battery cable can cause this issue. It turns out that my battery cable had actually cracked in one place from excessive corrosion and was beyond repair. So, I ordered a new harness and changed the entire cable. Even after the cable was replaced the fault didn't clear and the power steering was not available which makes driving quite the workout.
I took the car to the Ford dealership to have the computer reset. The first several mechanics didn't know what to do. Eventually, someone pulled an old grey bearded man resembling Santa Claus from the back who was able to hook up a laptop and reset the computer. When I restarted the car the faults were gone and the power steering worked!
It is now August. Yesterday the exact same thing happened, loss of power steering the the above faults returned. I took a peak at the battery terminal and it is corroded over again! This time it didn't crack, so a good cleaning should suffice. I spent several hours cleaning the terminals with battery cleaner and a wire brush mounted on a Dremel tool. I took the car back to the Ford dealership and got a lot of disbelief from the guys at the shop. Of course, Santa had gone back north for the winter not to return for several weeks. After much debate, I agreed to leave the car for diagnostics ($85).
Ford called back and wants to replace the entire steering gear which has the EPAS motor mounted to it for $1800. I'm pretty sure that they just need to reset the computer (a 3 minute job) so I'm having a hard time agreeing to drop that kind of cash. So, the questions are as follows:
Was my initial fix a good fix? Why don't these faults clear automatically when the problem is cleared (assuming my battery fix was correct)? How do I go about getting my computer reset? -Do shops other than the dealership have the ability to do this? -How much does the equipment cost to do this myself/what would I need?
My 2010 Fusion SE has 44,500 miles on it. It is the 4cyl. model with a 6 speed manual transmission. I have had the oil changed every 4-5,000 miles, never had any issues. Today when I went in to get the oil changed the guy told me a synthetic blend is required, and he wanted to charge me an extra 20 bucks for the oil change. I looked up in owners man. and it says SAE 5W20 and some Ford nomenclature for the minimum requirements for quality, etc. My question is this, why haven't any of my other oil changes required an up charge to a more expensive oil? I would have noticed. Does this car really need synthetic blend, and if so, is it really better than conventional oil? Have my previous oil changed damaged the car?
View 19 RepliesMy 2010 fusion radio sound quality isn't as good as when car was new. Also seems to vary on certain days. Has any one had problems with their Sony factory system & what was the fix?
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